Batec speed controller?

Aus550

1 mW
Joined
Mar 27, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Australia
Hi guys,

I’m from Australia and recently purchased a Batec Scrambler so I could get around my local neighbourhood without having to use my car. For those that don’t know what the scrambler is it’s a hub drive wheel with handlebars that can be mounted to a lightweight manual wheelchair turning it into a trike essentially

From my research they use an Ezee hub drive unit (500watts) on a 19” wheel. Power comes from a 46.8v Li-on battery with 14.5AH and 678whrs. I’m unsure what speed controller they use. I happy to post pics if that helps and is allowed in this section?

My main reason for posting is in Australia these units are limited to 6mph which is ridiculous. I live in a semi rural area so it’s not highly populated and trying to cover distances at 6mph is frustrating. So I’m quite good with my hands but can’t work out how the unit is governed.

If anyone can help me locate the Governor it would be much appreciated? I’ve invested a lot of money in a off-road wheelchair for this drive unit and 6mph is not viable.

Thanks,
Aus550
 
is this the unit in question?
https://batec-mobility.com/en/products/handbikes/compare-and-choose-add-on-for-wheelchair
the one on the right column?

if so, it should be capable of a max of 30kmh (once it's delimited), per their specs (quoted at the end of this post). it also says it's 1200w system, which is a bit much for the ezee motor, if used like that continously (it could handle bursts of that most likely).

there's a number of ways they could do it. so first we need to figure out what they did, then how to undo it. ;)

one possible way is to limit the throttle voltage into the controller, this is easy to test for, but it's probably not what they did. if the wheel spins faster (offground, no load) when the battery is completely fully charged vs when it is half or less, then it is possible they did it this way.

if the speed does not change, then it is limited by the controller itself.

the most common is that the controller is factory-programmed to limit the speed. in that case, there's most likely nothing you can do except to change the controller to a completely new one that doesn't do that. this is the most likely way they would do it to comply with regulations of a particular locality.

the next most common is the controller has two modes, limited and delimited, switched by connecting or disconnecting a wire loop. this is usually a single wire that comes out of the controller, goes to a single-pin plug that's connected to itself, then back into the controller. sometimes the wire is not brought out of the controller at all, and is just a jumper on the circuit board inside.


if the unit is programmable via it's lcd display, it may have a speed limit you can change in there...but it probably won't be something you can change, even if you can access it.


i couldn't see what the display screen (if any) looks like on there, but if it is a cycle analyst, those can be programmed to change the speed limits too. you may have to hook it up to a computer to do it, as the menus in the ca itself could be disabled by batec.



Maximum speed
30 Km/h
Autonomy
50 Km***
Motor
Ultra-Fast 300 RPM high-torque brushless motor

1200W

Reverse gear
Battery - To choose between -
- 36/48 V-280Wh
bateria aprobada por la IATA


- 48 V-678Wh
Charger
3A ultra-fast charger
Frame
7005 T6 aluminium

1.1/8 Black FSA Orbit Mx headset
Handlebar
Matte black aluminium handlebar
Brakes
Mechanical Avid BB7 brakes

Aluminium brake levers

Avid Centerline 200mm rotor disc

Parking brake
Wheel
19" Ultra-grip tyres

19" Black aluminium Double-Wall rims
Standard Equipment
Double Front LED lights 1400 lumens

Dual LED tail lights on the stand frame

All-in-one LCD display panel

USB charging port

Horn

BATEC ACOPLA support

Removable QR weights
Weight
16,7 Kg (without battery/weights)
Compatible accessories
(BATEC ACOPLA Support included in the standard equipment)

BATEC BOSSA rucksack

BATEC EXCURSION 2 front rucksack

BATEC RODES off-road wheels

Smartphone holder
 
amberwolf said:
is this the unit in question?
https://batec-mobility.com/en/products/handbikes/compare-and-choose-add-on-for-wheelchair
the one on the right column?

if so, it should be capable of a max of 30kmh (once it's delimited), per their specs (quoted at the end of this post). it also says it's 1200w system, which is a bit much for the ezee motor, if used like that continously (it could handle bursts of that most likely).

there's a number of ways they could do it. so first we need to figure out what they did, then how to undo it. ;)

one possible way is to limit the throttle voltage into the controller, this is easy to test for, but it's probably not what they did. if the wheel spins faster (offground, no load) when the battery is completely fully charged vs when it is half or less, then it is possible they did it this way.

if the speed does not change, then it is limited by the controller itself.

the most common is that the controller is factory-programmed to limit the speed. in that case, there's most likely nothing you can do except to change the controller to a completely new one that doesn't do that. this is the most likely way they would do it to comply with regulations of a particular locality.

the next most common is the controller has two modes, limited and delimited, switched by connecting or disconnecting a wire loop. this is usually a single wire that comes out of the controller, goes to a single-pin plug that's connected to itself, then back into the controller. sometimes the wire is not brought out of the controller at all, and is just a jumper on the circuit board inside.


if the unit is programmable via it's lcd display, it may have a speed limit you can change in there...but it probably won't be something you can change, even if you can access it.


i couldn't see what the display screen (if any) looks like on there, but if it is a cycle analyst, those can be programmed to change the speed limits too. you may have to hook it up to a computer to do it, as the menus in the ca itself could be disabled by batec.



Maximum speed
30 Km/h
Autonomy
50 Km***
Motor
Ultra-Fast 300 RPM high-torque brushless motor

1200W

Reverse gear
Battery - To choose between -
- 36/48 V-280Wh
bateria aprobada por la IATA


- 48 V-678Wh
Charger
3A ultra-fast charger
Frame
7005 T6 aluminium

1.1/8 Black FSA Orbit Mx headset
Handlebar
Matte black aluminium handlebar
Brakes
Mechanical Avid BB7 brakes

Aluminium brake levers

Avid Centerline 200mm rotor disc

Parking brake
Wheel
19" Ultra-grip tyres

19" Black aluminium Double-Wall rims
Standard Equipment
Double Front LED lights 1400 lumens

Dual LED tail lights on the stand frame

All-in-one LCD display panel

USB charging port

Horn

BATEC ACOPLA support

Removable QR weights
Weight
16,7 Kg (without battery/weights)
Compatible accessories
(BATEC ACOPLA Support included in the standard equipment)

BATEC BOSSA rucksack

BATEC EXCURSION 2 front rucksack

BATEC RODES off-road wheels

Smartphone holder

Hi Amberwolf

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes the unit you've linked looks like mine. In the user manual specifications say's " 250 rpm brushless 900 watt motor, nominal power 1200 watt".

This link will show you images of the lcd display and most other things.

https://batec-mobility.com/en/products/handbikes/batec-scrambler-en

Under the battery location is a large aluminium box which has a large pcb and wiring etc. I do have photos of the pcb etc. The speed controller i think is located at the back of the frame upright in front of the guys knees the second photo.

I'll try those couple of suggestions you made and get back to you. If there is any other info i can supply you to work this out let me know.

Thanks for you suggestions.

Aus550
 
Aus550 said:
This link will show you images of the lcd display and most other things.

https://batec-mobility.com/en/products/handbikes/batec-scrambler-en
under the specifications tab, the first thing it shows is three images of the display, with three different speed limits, each wiht a different led lit up on the right side of the display.

this implies there is a way for the user to simply change that limit via some menu on that display. unfortunately there are no apparent places anywhere on the page to download the manual for the unit, so you will have to check your physical manual for how to switch between these modes.

the brochure mentions but does not show where it is, a "gear selector" that probably is what switches between those modes.

if they are not user-selectable, you should contact the company itself to see about them changing modes for you, if that's possible. and also point out to them that the product page implies by it's design and layout that the user can change between those three modes at any time, and if this is not true, they should change the page immediatley to show the actual product operation. (and they should also post the product manuals there so that prospective buyers can read about all the details *before* they get one, so there are no surprises like the one you've had).


i noted they also show a "reverse" button or control; this operation is not possible with a geared hub like the ezee. if run in reverse, it simply spins inside the motor casing, and does not engage the gears and so it will just hum inside the wheel and do nothing (when held offground it might be able to slowly spin the wheel backwards, if there is enough friction in the clutch). the exception to this is if they use a version of the ezee custom-made for them with no freewheeling clutch...but this will make it very very hard to manually push the chair whne the battery is empty, or if something goes wrong with the system, because a geared hub will have proportionally more resistance to turning per the gear ratio inside, vs a similar dd hubmotor (that has no gearing inside).



Under the battery location is a large aluminium box which has a large pcb and wiring etc. I do have photos of the pcb etc. The speed controller i think is located at the back of the frame upright in front of the guys knees the second photo.
the speed controller (esc, controller) will be the box with the cable that goes directly to the motor itself, whichever that is.

keep in mind that if you end up having to change the controller, you will also be changing the lcd display and all of the other control interfaces, and will have to figure out how to make it all work as a handbike the way it is presently setup, basically starting from scratch, other than the mechanical unit itself that mounts to the chair, and the hubmotor wheel.

the good news is if you do have to do this, you can look around here on es for other handbikes, and see how they used things like the cycle analyst v3 from http://ebikes.ca to interpret the handcrank controls /etc into a throttle signal for the controller, among other challenges.



i do recommend that you post up any and all information that you do have; we never know what will give us the clue to solve a problem in a system that's not been encountered before. ;)

if you have pics or files, please attach them directly to your posts using the attachments tab, rather than linking to another site somewhere else. there is a thread "adding pictures" in the forum rules and features subforum that has info on getting pics sized/etc to fit. there are more helping threads linked in the welcome message to new members thread there.
 
Just quickly with regards to the three speeds. I’m using the fastest option which is 10kph or 6mph. The other two speeds are slower than that, if you can believe it.:shock: Yes it does have a forward and reverse gear. I may pm you with some more info for now.

Aus550
 
always post troubleshooting/etc stuff publicly, because otherwise it doesn't benefit future readers, and isn't efficient use of time.

if everyone that needed help only did it by pm, then only one person gets helped by that. if it's publicly posted, then it helps everyone (that needs the info) that ever runs across it and sees it in a search, etc. ;)


so in that spirit, i've replied to the pm here, rather than by pm (i left out the broken links though):

Aus550 said:
I have some pictures to show you or the forums. The only issue is i wasn't certain about the legalities of posting images of proprietary inner wiring etc on a public forums?

you shouldn't worry about it; this whole site is about diy, and repair of stuff, modifying stuff made by various companies; never seen an issue with posting pics of all kinds of internals/etc, even reverse engineering stuff and posting schematics, etc., in the more-than-a-decade of this forum's existence. ;) (if it comes down to it you can claim "right to repair" ;) ).


The main power cables to the hub motor come directly out of the wiring box in the photos below.

i'd recommend attaching the images directly to your posts in your thread, because linked images offsite often aren't visible--like yours in this case, which give this error:
404. That’s an error.

The requested URL was not found on this server. That’s all we know.


You can see the sleeved cables running through that grey alloy block at the bottom where it runs directly to the motor.

Do these images shed any light on the speed limiter?

as for whether the images would help finding the speed limiter, i'd have to see them to find out, but unless you trace out where they go, and more or less draw up a schematic of connections and post it, it's unlikely that pics that just show cables going into boxes or whatnot will help. you'd need to see where they go inside the boxes, and where they come from, for individual wires.

so we'll have to see what's in the images you've got so far before we can tell if they'll help.
 
Here are some pics of the pcb, wiring etc.
Control Box.jpg

Upper PCBPCB UPPER..JPG.jpg
Lower PCBPCB LOWER.JPG.jpg
Power Cables & Hall Sensor?IMG_8404.JPG. POWER CABLES.jpg
COI1?COI1.JPG (1).jpg
COI2?COI2.JPG.jpg
Control LocationsControl Locations.JPG.jpg
SCSC1.JPG.jpg
SC Cables?SC2.JPG.jpg
Hall Sensor?HALL SENSOR.JPG.jpg
Motor (Forward and Reverse Gears)Motor.jpg
LCD Screen.LCD Screen.jpg
 
to me, those three blue pots labelled l, m, h, seem an obvious place to start, as those could be low, medium, high.

before changing anything, use a marker or something to make a thin mark on both the brass knob and the blue box so you can realign them to their original setting, if it turns out they don't actually change what they look like they change, so it doesn't break some other function. ;)

also keep in mind that if these pots are for something else entirely, like system voltage, changing them could cause failures or other undesired operation...so, beware that you may break things in these experiments.

then try changing the h pot by one quarter turn clockwise, with the system powered off. then turn it on, set it to "high gear" and test the motor speed (offground, no load); if it goes up even a tiny bit higher than it did before under the same conditions, then turn it another quarter turn, etc.

if the speed goes down instead, then turn it back 1/4 turn to original position, and then 1/4 turn counterclockwise from there.

if it doesn't change at all either direction, then we'll have to look into other things.
 
amberwolf said:
to me, those three blue pots labelled l, m, h, seem an obvious place to start, as those could be low, medium, high.

before changing anything, use a marker or something to make a thin mark on both the brass knob and the blue box so you can realign them to their original setting, if it turns out they don't actually change what they look like they change, so it doesn't break some other function. ;)

also keep in mind that if these pots are for something else entirely, like system voltage, changing them could cause failures or other undesired operation...so, beware that you may break things in these experiments.

then try changing the h pot by one quarter turn clockwise, with the system powered off. then turn it on, set it to "high gear" and test the motor speed (offground, no load); if it goes up even a tiny bit higher than it did before under the same conditions, then turn it another quarter turn, etc.

if the speed goes down instead, then turn it back 1/4 turn to original position, and then 1/4 turn counterclockwise from there.

if it doesn't change at all either direction, then we'll have to look into other things.

With regards to the three blue pots, what isn't shown in the photo is above the pots is "RV1 RV2 RV3".
Seeing as you couldn't see that information does it change your opinion?
 
that most likely just means "resistor variable", which is a potentiometer (pot). so it doesn't change anything as far as first attempts goes. :)

(rl1 is relay 1, l1 is inductor one (no i have no idea why l is used for inductor instead of i), j2 is jumper 2, ld1 is light emitting diode 1, etc).
 
amberwolf said:
to me, those three blue pots labelled l, m, h, seem an obvious place to start, as those could be low, medium, high.

before changing anything, use a marker or something to make a thin mark on both the brass knob and the blue box so you can realign them to their original setting, if it turns out they don't actually change what they look like they change, so it doesn't break some other function. ;)

also keep in mind that if these pots are for something else entirely, like system voltage, changing them could cause failures or other undesired operation...so, beware that you may break things in these experiments.

then try changing the h pot by one quarter turn clockwise, with the system powered off. then turn it on, set it to "high gear" and test the motor speed (offground, no load); if it goes up even a tiny bit higher than it did before under the same conditions, then turn it another quarter turn, etc.

if the speed goes down instead, then turn it back 1/4 turn to original position, and then 1/4 turn counterclockwise from there.

if it doesn't change at all either direction, then we'll have to look into other things.

Well i gave the H pot a good 1/4 turn and free wheeling the wheel it is still the same speed?

What do you think?
 
if each of the three "gears" is still exactly the same speed it was before changing it, then it's probably not going to be that easy. :(

but if it's even *slightly* different, then it may be changing it, and turning it further should change it more. those are "multiturn" pots, which means the brass screw has to be turned more than one full turn (usually several, up to ten or so for pots like that, depends on the specific part they used) to go from it's lowest to it's highest value.


so if it's not different, you could try turning it the other direction instead, or try turning it another 1/4 turn in the same direction. make sure to try all three "gears" just in case the markings are in the wrong order (where l is actually for the high "gear", and h is actually for the low "gear", etc). ;)

or you could change it back to it's original setting, then try the other two pots, one at a time, also trying each "gear", for each test.
 
amberwolf said:
if each of the three "gears" is still exactly the same speed it was before changing it, then it's probably not going to be that easy. :(

but if it's even *slightly* different, then it may be changing it, and turning it further should change it more. those are "multiturn" pots, which means the brass screw has to be turned more than one full turn (usually several, up to ten or so for pots like that, depends on the specific part they used) to go from it's lowest to it's highest value.


so if it's not different, you could try turning it the other direction instead, or try turning it another 1/4 turn in the same direction. make sure to try all three "gears" just in case the markings are in the wrong order (where l is actually for the high "gear", and h is actually for the low "gear", etc). ;)

or you could change it back to it's original setting, then try the other two pots, one at a time, also trying each "gear", for each test.


ok i went half a turn anti clockwise and had a reduction of 2 kph. So i think you may be on to it now. I suppose i'll try a full turn clock wise and check.
 
Two full turns up to 20 kph freewheeling it.:) so three would probably get me near it’s top speed.

Happy as amberwolf! You’ve been a great help.

What do you think?
 
sounds like those are indeed the limiter settings for each "gear". this is good info for anyone else with one of these units that goes looking for help with this, because it's much easier than i expected it to be. :)

so now you just have to fine tune that high "gear", and then go test it on the road (or offroad, whichever it's for).

it's possible (but unlikely) that each affects the next, too, so once the lower ones are adjusted higher (if you need them to be) then the higher one may go higher than without that (but probably not)


then you can also test the reverse gear, because i'm curious if it really works.

the ezee is a geared hubmotor, and all of hte ezees i have seen (including the one i have here) have a one-way clutch in them that prevents reverse operation. it's not specifically intended to do that; it's just a side effect of making it easy to pedal (or push) when it's not powered, so the gearing doesn't have to rotate the motor (which would create significant drag and make it harder to pedal or push, sometimes a lot harder with a geared hub (vs a dd direct drive hub)).
 
Amberwolf how do I know when I found the top speed of this unit? The screw on the high speed pot still as more advancement left.

Thanks
 
when turning the pot doesn't increase the speed any further, that's the limit of adjustment. ;)

the manufacturer says 30kmh would be max speed for that unit, presumably on flat ground with no wind, on a full charge.

so i'd guess that's the top speed (under those conditions). should be that speed (or a bit faster) offground with no load on the wheel.

it's probably slower when less than full charge, and under greater motor loads. how much slower...dunno.
 
Yes your correct. It didn’t go any faster with an extra turn of the pot so I found its limit. Also the max speed has dropped with less than a full charge, only by a couple of Kph.
 
Hi
Ive just bought a Batec Scrambler.
And as you know the speed issue is significant.
In your discussion with amberwolf it appears you were able to circumvent the speed limitation by adjusting the brass screws on the blue pot marked H.

Was it a Scrambler you have?
What year model?
Was the speed adjustment successful?
How many turns of the screw did it take to get full speed?
Did you need to make adjustments to the L and M pots also?
Have you noticed any knock on effects from making this change?

Would appreciate any help or hints you may have before I give this a go?
Im so glad I found your discussion.
Cheers. DM
 
So happy to find this.
Have you succeeded with the speed limit?
I have had a Batec electric for a couple of months now. Top speed should be 25 kph but is limited to 15. Hope your tips also work for me.
 
I just got my Batec Scrambler today, sure enough this thread has worked a treat, adjusted the screws and I now have a full power Batec, was going 28kmh on a realitvley flat road pretty quickly too
 
@amberwolf Hi All,

I registered on this forum just to say thank you to those who posted pics and helped to remove the speed limiter on the Batec Scrambler, it makes a world of difference.

For those that dont know this is an attachment for wheelchairs and being limited to 10Kph in AUS is ridiculous. Having the limiter removed and now being able to do 28Kph means I can go along with my family when they go for rides etc... really opens so many new doors so thank you for posting this information.

To answer some more questions that were asked. Adjusting the "H" Pot only changes the speed on the fast gear, not on the other 2 lower gears/modes. This is a good thing in my mind as it allows you to still retain good control of what mode you want to be in and adjusting one mode doesnt impact the other 2.

I do have another questions. For those that dont know, this 1 wheel attachment costs about $19,000 Australian, hence I would really like to know what components they are using. the Ezee motors only cost about $200, hence I would hope they are using a more expensive motor and controller's etc than this in a $19K power assist.

Much of the cost will come from it being used as a medical assistive technology device, so they know they can try and have them claimed under an insurance scheme.

They say it is a 300 RPM motor and it's on a 19inch wheel, the battery is a 678Wh - 48V - 14.5Ah unit. - If I added a bigger battery to this unit am I still going to be limited to about 30Kph due to the max RPM rating of the motor? - on a 19inch wheel it seems like at 300 RPM you cant go faster than 30Kph... Hence is that the hard limit of speed for this motor? - They say it is a 1200W motor.

Thank you,
 
flickster said:
For those that dont know, this 1 wheel attachment costs about $19,000 Australian, hence I would really like to know what components they are using. the Ezee motors only cost about $200, hence I would hope they are using a more expensive motor and controller's etc than this in a $19K power assist.

Much of the cost will come from it being used as a medical assistive technology device, so they know they can try and have them claimed under an insurance scheme.

The prices I found in Europe for the Batec products are here: View attachment Prijs Batec 2020.pdf
It seems to be between roughly €6500,- and €7000,-. So that would be around 11,250 AUS dollars for the Batec Scrambler without accessories or import taxes.
 
flickster said:
To answer some more questions that were asked. Adjusting the "H" Pot only changes the speed on the fast gear, not on the other 2 lower gears/modes.
Been a while since working with this thread; AFAICR each pot changes one of the three "speed" settings. But I don't remember for sure, and haven't had time to reread the thread.

They say it is a 300 RPM motor and it's on a 19inch wheel, the battery is a 678Wh - 48V - 14.5Ah unit. - If I added a bigger battery to this unit am I still going to be limited to about 30Kph due to the max RPM rating of the motor? - on a 19inch wheel it seems like at 300 RPM you cant go faster than 30Kph... Hence is that the hard limit of speed for this motor? - They say it is a 1200W motor.
You can go to https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html and play with various setups to see how the speed of a bike is related to the motor RPM, current limit of controller, and voltage of battery (presuming no electronics like the Batec has to limit it's speed).

Regarding a bigger capacity battery, all it will do is give you a longer range, and if you use it in parallel with the existing battery, it will reduce the strain on both batteries, as well.

To get a faster speed, you would probably have to replace the Batec electronics / controller with a standard unlimited one, and potentially either increase the battery voltage, or change the motor to a faster one.

Keep in mind also that there is a power demand increase as well, for faster speeds, due to air resistance, even on flat ground. If you are on hills, it's even higher. HOw much power is needed for a particular speed depends on your aerodynamics; you can guesstimate this with various internet calculators or the simulator linked above.
 
Pictured below, here is another Batec Electric Series #1 model which happens to also have been downgraded to the Australian standard 10km/h maximum speed limit!!!
This this particular model was originally advertised as traveling a maximum 20km/h European speed limit prior to then being shipped to Australia!!! Despite this, do you see any other alternative way of resetting the maximum speed limit (within the picture) back to the original European speed settings even though this this particular model doesn’t have the 3x copper knobs available to turn clockwise, or would I still need to provide even more pictures to hopefully analyse, fingers crossed!?
Thanks!
Steve
 

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