New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

windburner said:
Thanks for the interesting use report on the brass gear. After hearing all of the blue gear destruction talk shortly after buying and installing our TSDZ2, I almost bought a brass gear to replace the blue preemptively, just to save some downstream frustration. I never did, and now certain to stay with the blue, as have seen several reports now of the noise, and, who wants shards!
Click to expand...

Yes, good decision. I bought 2 more blue gears so that I have minimum downtime next time one breaks - postage from China to NZ takes a while and it's frustrating if you have to wait a couple of weeks with a broken e-bike!
 
casainho said:
Why not developing a 3D print base for battery pack that can be easily attached to bike frames and make a battery quick and easily removable? I am not a mechanic but I think could be possible and would bring a lot of value. I have 4 TSDZ2 ebikes and recently I did a trip of 5 days with family and friends, 3 TSDZ2 ebikes and 1 commercial with Bosch battery - this one was good because was easy removable to charge on the places we slept: would be great to have a similar solution to TSDZ2!! Any mechanical user able to design / develop a 3D print base?
Click to expand...
My battery have a base with quick release using a key, but I had to remove it because it didn't fit inside this bike frame.
My plan for the future is to build a box for a small triangle battery, and this one goes back to my hardtail bike.
Last year I made a 4 days trip, around 400km, maybe you know the route "Rota Vicentina", it was awesome!
 
sp1n4d0 said:
casainho said:
Why not developing a 3D print base for battery pack that can be easily attached to bike frames and make a battery quick and easily removable? I am not a mechanic but I think could be possible and would bring a lot of value. I have 4 TSDZ2 ebikes and recently I did a trip of 5 days with family and friends, 3 TSDZ2 ebikes and 1 commercial with Bosch battery - this one was good because was easy removable to charge on the places we slept: would be great to have a similar solution to TSDZ2!! Any mechanical user able to design / develop a 3D print base?
Click to expand...
My battery have a base with quick release using a key, but I had to remove it because it didn't fit inside this bike frame.
My plan for the future is to build a box for a small triangle battery, and this one goes back to my hardtail bike.
Last year I made a 4 days trip, around 400km, maybe you know the route "Rota Vicentina", it was awesome!
Click to expand...
I don´t need the lock, so only a base with a power connector would be enough. Here is the bicycle battery:

image.png


image.png


image.png


Yes!! we did the "Rota Vicentina" on this last 5 days:
image.png
 
chickenflex said:
Hi - looking at getting a TSDZ2 for my 29er to ease my winter commute.

I've tried a 36v 250w Shimano motor and that provided me with more than enough assistance during the commute.

I should be fine with getting the 48v 250w (road legal) version with something like 48V 11.4Ah Samsung 29E battery? My commute is around 20km each day.

I've been trying to read regarding the cadance - during my commute my cadance is usually around 95-100 rpm. Is this a problem?
Click to expand...

I have a battery like that (36V 11.4Ah with 10s4p 29e cells), and a 36V motor. With the firmware upgrade I am running it at 500W max. Im not using the bike for commuting, but I tested it on my commute the other day if, 15km each way and 200m elevation. 30-35 kmh on my singletrail bike with mud/gravel tires, so not effective at pavement at all.... Max assisitance all the way so I would not break sweat and ended up with 19% left after 30km total. 20km should be a breeze :)
 
chickenflex said:
Hi - looking at getting a TSDZ2 for my 29er to ease my winter commute.

I've tried a 36v 250w Shimano motor and that provided me with more than enough assistance during the commute.

I should be fine with getting the 48v 250w (road legal) version with something like 48V 11.4Ah Samsung 29E battery? My commute is around 20km each day.

I've been trying to read regarding the cadance - during my commute my cadance is usually around 95-100 rpm. Is this a problem?
Click to expand...

As casainho mentioned there'sno problem with the cadence if you use his OSF for SW102/850C/860C displays. If you prefer to use the original display and the OSF fork for them, it would be better to get a 36V motor and 48V battery. With "experimental high cadence mode" you'd still get SOME assist at 100 cadence, but only with casainhos firmware you can expect to have full power available.
 
Casainho and co, the latest firmware is absolutely fantastic, I didn’t realise how much I needed high cadence!

Really appreciate the street mode also.

I have two feature requests for consideration:

1 - independent options for speed and temperature display units. Being from the UK the natural units (for road users anyway) would be MPH and Celsius.

2 - the option to keep the SW102 screen at full brightness when the lights are on. I use my headlight in daylight for safety, but can’t read the display well at all when it dims.

Minor things, but would be the icing on the cake for this user.

Many thanks.
 
Zamzoo said:
Casainho and co, the latest firmware is absolutely fantastic, I didn’t realise how much I needed high cadence!

Really appreciate the street mode also.

I have two feature requests for consideration:

1 - independent options for speed and temperature display units. Being from the UK the natural units (for road users anyway) would be MPH and Celsius.

2 - the option to keep the SW102 screen at full brightness when the lights are on. I use my headlight in daylight for safety, but can’t read the display well at all when it dims.

Minor things, but would be the icing on the cake for this user.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback!! Yes, I also love to have high cadence support up to 120 RPM!!

I am busy and I hope other developers can help develop that points, they are not big to develop considering current firmware state.
 
Casainho - I read this in the current configuration settings: "WARNING: do not enable/use BOOST feature because it is currently buggy."

What is 'buggy' when Boost is enabled now? What would we see on our bikes?
 
Quick one guys: do you know where to find the rubber seal of the new tsdz2 spider? I have a 2017 motor and that seal is bigger than the new's one.
I wonder where I can find the new version as I ordered the 104BCD spider but it comes without seal.
Thanks
 
I’m coming up on 3,500 miles. I applied new grease at 2,000 when I swapped blue gear. Is there any other recommended maintenance, should I regrease? I ask because it’s now hot in Texas and my motor seemed to lose power on my commute.
 
Sorry to repeat myself, but does anyone know if the hardware adjustment of the torque sensor described in the opensource firmware github will affect the pedals individually? I have a very unresponsive right pedal, so Im wondering if adjusting it would affect this, or if I have to get a new torque sensor...?
 
thineight said:
Quick one guys: do you know where to find the rubber seal of the new tsdz2 spider? I have a 2017 motor and that seal is bigger than the new's one.
I wonder where I can find the new version as I ordered the 104BCD spider but it comes without seal.
Thanks
Click to expand...

This is the only seller I have found. But I also have an extra seal as I ordered two as spare parts. Do you still need the original bigger seal? I'd need one of those as I have a 130bcd spider in my other bike's motor and my makeshift seal didn't last very long. If you are located in Europe and want to trade the seals I'm happy to do it :)
 
ilu said:
thineight said:
Quick one guys: do you know where to find the rubber seal of the new tsdz2 spider? I have a 2017 motor and that seal is bigger than the new's one.
I wonder where I can find the new version as I ordered the 104BCD spider but it comes without seal.
Thanks
Click to expand...

This is the only seller I have found. But I also have an extra seal as I ordered two as spare parts. Do you still need the original bigger seal? I'd need one of those as I have a 130bcd spider in my other bike's motor and my makeshift seal didn't last very long. If you are located in Europe and want to trade the seals I'm happy to do it :)
Click to expand...
Hi, the link you posted seems to sell standard seals.. the ones you can find in any mechanical shop.
Specifically I was looking for the seal to put in this spider I bought, but not arrived yet (seal not supplied).
The spider 2017 version has a peculiar soft seal with lips and it is about 42mm OD.
This spider looks with a smaller seal (35mm OD) but I am not sure it will fit standard seals like the ones supplied with the motor or similar to the 2017 version.. but a bit smaller.
 
thineight said:
Hi, the link you posted seems to sell standard seals.. the ones you can find in any mechanical shop.
Specifically I was looking for the seal to put in this spider I bought, but not arrived yet (seal not supplied).
The spider 2017 version has a peculiar soft seal with lips and it is about 42mm OD.
This spider looks with a smaller seal (35mm OD) but I am not sure it will fit standard seals like the ones supplied with the motor or similar to the 2017 version.. but a bit smaller.
Click to expand...

I though those spiders would fit the same seal as the 2017 motor as some sellers claim that they fit "older motor only". I have the 130bcd spider as in your link and the hole in it is 38mm, which I didn't realize when I ordered it. There's also another type of 104bcd spider (grey aluminium) that fits the standard 28mm seal that comes with newer motors.
 
Hello everyone,

This is my first post on the forum!

I have been reading a lot on this forum to be ready for any issue with the TSDZ2 but I have see this specific problem on the forum before

I have been using my TSDZ2 for 1.5 years without any problem and 1500 km, but yesterday the motor stop providing assistance with a E08 (low battery) error on the display.

I am using the stock firmware.

The 48v battery was fully loaded at 54v

I have tested the TSDZ2 by providing the power directly from the charger it has the same issue

When I use the walk assist I get a click and a little buzz from the motor/controller

The next day when I tried again the error was gone and the display was showing full battery but the issue remain.

I guess my best chance to solve this issue is to replace the controller as I suspect it has gone bad

What do you think about it?

Many thanks
 
ilu said:
I though those spiders would fit the same seal as the 2017 motor as some sellers claim that they fit "older motor only". I have the 130bcd spider as in your link and the hole in it is 38mm, which I didn't realize when I ordered it. There's also another type of 104bcd spider (grey aluminium) that fits the standard 28mm seal that comes with newer motors.
Click to expand...

So, how did you seal your 38mm hole? I expect my 104BCD will arrive with the same hole. I wonder if there is any 38ODx15ID compatible seal.
 
thineight said:
So, how did you seal your 38mm hole? I expect my 104BCD will arrive with the same hole. I wonder if there is any 38ODx15ID compatible seal.
Click to expand...

I glued some rubber to the spider and made a hole in the center, and put a cable inlet type of gasket on the axle, the rubber in the groove of the inlet. But it wore out after some thousand kms. I took a closer look at the spider (and removed the glue), the outer groove is 41mm diameter, so I'd think your seal will fit if the lips are 42mm and there's a groove in the middle.
 

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But beware, at least my spider was not a perfect fit. I had some play in the axle which is difficult to eliminate completely, as discussed before in this thread. Thus the spider rubbed against the outer plastic cover of the main gear, and both the spider and the edge of the cover are worn out. I noticed this early and tried to add thin spacers between the spider and the main gear, but this in turn broke the sprag clutch as the spider did not support the plastic cover of the clutch.
 

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ilu said:
But beware, at least my spider was not a perfect fit. I had some play in the axle which is difficult to eliminate completely, as discussed before in this thread. Thus the spider rubbed against the outer plastic cover of the main gear, and both the spider and the edge of the cover are worn out. I noticed this early and tried to add thin spacers between the spider and the main gear, but this in turn broke the sprag clutch as the spider did not support the plastic cover of the clutch.
Click to expand...

How can this brake the sprag clutch? Some who are using 2mm spacers between the main gear and the spider as a requirement to mount two chain rings might expect the failure of the sprag clutch then.
 
sysrq said:
How can this brake the sprag clutch? Some who are using 2mm spacers between the main gear and the spider as a requirement to mount two chain rings might expect the failure of the sprag clutch then.
Click to expand...

Well I can't be sure if it was because of the gap or if the clutch was faulty, but soon after I changed the spider my sprag clutch started slipping and I noticed that the plastic part that is holding the clutch rollers was coming out and was broken. So it seemed that it broke because the spider was not pressing against it. Might also be that because of the gap some dirt was getting in.
 
ilu said:
sysrq said:
How can this brake the sprag clutch? Some who are using 2mm spacers between the main gear and the spider as a requirement to mount two chain rings might expect the failure of the sprag clutch then.
Click to expand...

Well I can't be sure if it was because of the gap or if the clutch was faulty, but soon after I changed the spider my sprag clutch started slipping and I noticed that the plastic part that is holding the clutch rollers was coming out and was broken. So it seemed that it broke because the spider was not pressing against it. Might also be that because of the gap some dirt was getting in.
Click to expand...
Looks like the seal on this one has failed on the other side.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/diw55a/tsdz2_busted_sprag_clutch/?utm_source=amp&utm_medium=&utm_content=comments_view_all
 
thineight said:
So, how did you seal your 38mm hole? I expect my 104BCD will arrive with the same hole. I wonder if there is any 38ODx15ID compatible seal.
Click to expand...
I had the same issue as you with the seal that comes with the motor would not fit the older style 108 BCD spider I had also ordered. So I didn’t fill the whole which left the sprag clutch bearing exposed and it failed very quickly due to water ingression from washing and rain etc.

My solution was to design a simple adapter that is 3d printed in PETG, just snaps in (with some force) and then I sealed the inside of the spider adapter joint with a thin bead of silicone. The smaller seal just pushes into it. Been running it through 2 British winters without an issue.

You can grab it from Thingiverse if you think it will be of use:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4485968
 

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devboy-greg said:
thineight said:
So, how did you seal your 38mm hole? I expect my 104BCD will arrive with the same hole. I wonder if there is any 38ODx15ID compatible seal.
Click to expand...
I had the same issue as you with the seal that comes with the motor would not fit the older style 108 BCD spider I had also ordered. So I didn’t fill the whole which left the sprag clutch bearing exposed and it failed very quickly due to water ingression from washing and rain etc.

My solution was to design a simple adapter that is 3d printed in PETG, just snaps in (with some force) and then I sealed the inside of the spider adapter joint with a thin bead of silicone. The smaller seal just pushes into it. Been running it through 2 British winters without an issue.

You can grab it from Thingiverse if you think it will be of use:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4485968
Click to expand...
Interesting.. what's the diameter of your spider's hole then? not sure if this will fit mine as I still don't know which precise hole size I'm going to receive (from the web looks like 35-38mm). Perhaps it should have been better to order the spider with the standard hole to fit the standard rubber wipers.
 
thineight said:
Interesting.. what's the diameter of your spider's hole then? not sure if this will fit mine as I still don't know which precise hole size I'm going to receive (from the web looks like 35-38mm). Perhaps it should have been better to order the spider with the standard hole to fit the standard rubber wipers.
Click to expand...

This adapter was designed to fit the old style spider with the 38mm hole, which is the one I have, (pictured).

I see PSW Power no longer sell the old adapter, the new style ones should have the correct hole to take the seal supplied with current motors.
 
Hi all,

I've a problem with one of those motors (48V 750W vlcd5 with the open source firmware)
I installed it on the bike, it worked ok for a couple of km and then it stoped. The controller is in short circuit. I've switched with another old controller, same result, short circuit after a couple of kilometers. I managed to get a spare controller and motor under warranty, for the same result, again.
Could it come from the screen or the speed sensor? Those are the only things I haven't changed on the bike.
The parameters are ok, I've another bike running with the same motor and parameters with hundreds of km and no problem...
 
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