2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor

Q128h it's not a direct drive, it's a geared motor.
I had one and it's very powerfull, the same as bpm. But when i try to use in hard off road i burn the motor quickly :-( on the road it' a good motor, plenty of power (48v 20a) and my wheight it's 104kg
 
andrea_104kg said:
Q128h it's not a direct drive, it's a geared motor.
I had one and it's very powerfull, the same as bpm. But when i try to use in hard off road i burn the motor quickly :-( on the road it' a good motor, plenty of power (48v 20a) and my wheight it's 104kg
That's only 1000W. I would't call 3000W a very powerful motor, but that just me.
 
Ecyclist said:
andrea_104kg said:
Q128h it's not a direct drive, it's a geared motor.
I had one and it's very powerfull, the same as bpm. But when i try to use in hard off road i burn the motor quickly :-( on the road it' a good motor, plenty of power (48v 20a) and my wheight it's 104kg
That's only 1000W. I would't call 3000W a very powerful motor, but that just me.

I live in Italy where the legal limit it's 250w. For me it' s a powerfull motor :D but it' right 3000w it's better!
 
I bought a 36 Volt Xiongda 2 speed motor about 5 years ago. I rode it back & forth to work for 2 years then stripped a gear inside. About then I bought a Bafang mid drive. I repaired the Xiongda and put it on a bike for my daughter and she rode it for 3 years. Meanwhile I'd purchased a 48V 2 speed motor and was happily using it on another bike. My daughter bought a new bike so I pulled the 36V off her old one and put it on a recumbent bike. It didn't make me all that happy because it would only go about 32kph ( I can do that without a motor on my 'bent) so I took my 48V controller and battery and hooked it up to the 36V motor. I've decided that this is how they should sell them all. The shift point is at about 20kph and top speed is about 42kph, I'm still able to climb the hill I need to climb. The watt meter peaks out at about 550W, I've run it at 500 Watts for about 5 minutes at a time on a ride of about 15 minutes with it never below about 250W. So far it hasn't overheated or had any issues.

A friend ordered one from Luna and all i can say is that the controller they repackaged it with is not as rider friendly. The Xiongda has a High/Auto/low switch but the luna one does not, You've got to adjust the pedal assist down until you're in the low gear and then you don't have options for pedal assist, just low gear. The friend says she overheats it often. It is because she doesn't understand the difference between gears and pedal assist levels. She leaves it in level 5 thinking its the most powerful but then crawls up the hill. If she had an auto switch it would be far more user friendly (idiot proof).
 
It has become silent about this motor - did people stop using it?
One of my motors stopped working recently. Looking inside revealed a sun gear with two teeth broken off.
sun-gear-broken.jpg

That made me curious how the gears look in my first motor ~ 10.000 km on it. You might remember, I had to replace one HAL sensors a couple of years ago. This one still has all teeth, by they look like from a shark.
sun-gear-worn.jpg

The others seem to be OK or should I replace/get the others too?
gears.jpg

Does anyone out there has spare sun gears?
 
My son's trike with Xiongda 2 speed is working fine. From your photos It looks like you will need a new transmission.
How many miles did you put on that motor? Did you push it harder than recommended?
Xiongda on Gekko. (2).JPG
 
hi
can some of you take a look at the number of nuts and bolts there is with my set, i might have lost some since date of purchase not sure, and a guy from a bike shop told me i must have at least a missing piece where the yellow circle is in order to make sens .
(the green represents the hub the stainless steel straws represent the rear 135 forks ) is the order right and is the est west sens of each piece correct? tx cassette being on the non writhing tip side of the pen.
 

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knutselmaaster said:
That is normal.

hi knutsm, when you say it is normal do you mean that there is only supposed to be 3 pieces on each side of the motor ?

Also when i look at those pictures below i do count 4 pieces on each side. Can anyone explain me what is the job of those pieces and if i should try to get them? (cause i dont have the one in red circles..) on pic.
tx
 

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It is normal that there is nothing between the inner nut and the motor on the freewheel side.
On the other side, there is a thick gasket that goes a little bit inside the motor housing, pushing against the inner ring of the bearing.
As all bikes are different, one often needs to play around a bit with the rings and gaskets so that the motor and freewheel stay clear from the bike frame and centered.
You could inverse the anti-return gaskets too, for example, so that they are inside the frame instead of outside.
If you don't have the rings you need, you can take some M12 rings at the local hardware store.
 
HI im unsure what to conclude from what you say . is it that the only part missing is on the non freewheel side? a piece, thick gasket that goes a little inside the motor? could you find an image to show plz?
 
is it the piece i circled on the last picture ?
is it just a washer or does it go inside the motor?
does it have thread?
did xiongda sent it with your kit?
 
Yes. It is just a plain old ring/spacer.
It should come with the motor, but any ring that fits does the job.
On your picture there is a 145mm disc brake and freewheel version of the motor, does this correspond with the actual version you have?
As I stated before, the rings are just there to center the motor and to prevent that it touches the bike's frame.
As you can see on the schematic diagram of the motor some posts above yours, there are vesrsions of this motor with some extra nuts.
One of your pictures shows a bit of tube that functions as spacer, unde the nut.
I wouldn't worry about it, just check how to center the motor in the frame by using rings and stuff (with the freewheel and disc mounted) and then spoke and center the rim with all the rings/spacers in place.
 
I have just ordered this motor from Bonnie.
I'm getting the 36v version for a 26" wheel.
Bonnie tells me that the sun gear has been through several improvements and is now much stronger.
I certainly hope so!
I had heard there was an issue when some? motors locking up when they were wheeled backwards.
I forgot to ask Bonnie. Is this still an issue?
The motor will be going into a velomobile. I really wanted to use my Tsdz2,. But even with short unicycle cranks, I couldn't get the Q factor narrow enough to allow my feet to clear the shell.
The Xiongda was my fallback solution.
 
I've built dozens of bikes with these motors.
Never had any problems with sun gears, not even on older versions.
I admit that I choose motors for my clients according to their usage and situation so this prevents breakage because of unadapted installation.
If you want to be extra assured of durability, keep the C5 setting at 6 or lower so that the system doesn't run on max power, you will hardly feel the difference.
Most of these motors make a crackling sound when backing up the bike (from time to time), it sounds painful but doesn't seem to damage anything.
It is caused by the clutch keeping engaged
This can be prevented by forcing the system on L gear (with the H A L switch) before stopping.
 
Freddyflatfoot said:
I have just ordered this motor from Bonnie.
I'm getting the 36v version for a 26" wheel.
Bonnie tells me that the sun gear has been through several improvements and is now much stronger.
I certainly hope so!
I had heard there was an issue when some? motors locking up when they were wheeled backwards.
I forgot to ask Bonnie. Is this still an issue?
The motor will be going into a velomobile. I really wanted to use my Tsdz2,. But even with short unicycle cranks, I couldn't get the Q factor narrow enough to allow my feet to clear the shell.
The Xiongda was my fallback solution.
I'm confident that you will be happy with Xiongda kit.
I put it on my son's trike and had a little problem, but Bonnie was there for me.
She is a customer service superstar.
I have no motors locking up when wheeled backwards.
Can you post photo of your velomobile?
 
knutselmaaster said:
I've built dozens of bikes with these motors.
Never had any problems with sun gears, not even on older versions.
I admit that I choose motors for my clients according to their usage and situation so this prevents breakage because of unadapted installation.
If you want to be extra assured of durability, keep the C5 setting at 6 or lower so that the system doesn't run on max power, you will hardly feel the difference.
Most of these motors make a crackling sound when backing up the bike (from time to time), it sounds painful but doesn't seem to damage anything.
It is caused by the clutch keeping engaged
This can be prevented by forcing the system on L gear (with the H A L switch) before stopping.
HI couble questions here:
111 when power is off , is the wheel supposed to turn without resistance like a normal wheel or will there be a resistance always?
what is your experience of it?

222 i installed nipples and rays and the wheel is not centered there is not enough space to move it further center, how to fix it se pict buy the way how to do guys post full pict of 500 k ? mine are 4mo

333 the hexagonal(in red) nut that is supposed to keep the fork in place is free to move in or out it can roll and move with time and vibration inst that a probleme how did you fix it?

tx
 

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111 There is a very small resistance.

222 If your spokes are in maximum "umbrella" position and still the wheel is out of center, use a smaller nut on the cassette side (watch out that the chain keeps enough clearance from the frame). You can also add washers on the left side.

333 once the axle is tightened in the frame, the nut won't move.
 
Hi guys, I was wondering if it was possible to use two of these motors on one bike to get a 2wd monster hill climber. I couldn't find it in the 60+ pages of this topic.
 
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