TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

HughF said:

Awop + torque mode + disabled startup boost

Those three things should see you getting off the line with plenty of power. Mine absolutely rips with those settings. I am able to outrun 50cc scooters from the traffic lights it has that much acceleration.

Click to expand...

Could you please give us an idea of your assist and boost settings for the above performance. Is torque sensor calibrated? Finally if you get a chance could you perform a small test. If riding up a steep hill (basically that you would not be able to ride without assist) you momentarily stop pedaling ... do you notice 1-2s delay in the motor ramping back to full power?

Thanks a lot

mctubster said:

HughF said:

Awop + torque mode + disabled startup boost

Those three things should see you getting off the line with plenty of power. Mine absolutely rips with those settings. I am able to outrun 50cc scooters from the traffic lights it has that much acceleration.

Click to expand...

Could you please give us an idea of your assist and boost settings for the above performance. Is torque sensor calibrated? Finally if you get a chance could you perform a small test. If riding up a steep hill (basically that you would not be able to ride without assist) you momentarily stop pedaling ... do you notice 1-2s delay in the motor ramping back to full power?

Thanks a lot

Click to expand...

My assist settings are not adjusted from the stock 20 levels but I actually ride everywhere on assist level 10 or 13. I have a calibrated torque sensor. I have boost duration set to 5 and fade set to 6.5. I have the current ramp maxed out and battery amps set to 20.

I will try and find a hill and test what you ask for.

plpetrov said:

Heisenberg60 said:

dameri said:

jtsavola said:

Unfortunately my skills are very limited. I can follow step by step guide but that's it

Click to expand...

Here is a very good guide https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Development (I think that is step by step ). It has quite a lot to do when you have to install many programs. The help was originally made for OSX, but should also work on Linux and Windows. Personally, I use Linux and I managed quite easily even though I have no experience with programming.

I try next week if I manage with Windows at work if I have spare time.

I will get a new light https://herrmans.eu/products/front-lights-4147/e-bike-10035/h-black-pro-e/hopefully next week and there may be a problem with the engine.

Then I can to test if the new hex file which I made works with TSDZ2.

I have now lights which came with the TSDZ2. The head light is very poor and tail light stop working at all. I think there is problem with internal connections. TSDZ2 works with these lights with no problem.

Click to expand...

great that`s what i was looking for
i will give an update as soon as i mange to update my firmware (might take until next, i have a lot of stuf to do)

Did some one have the same problem as i do with the temperature sensor ?
My bike won`t start with the sensor intalled.

Click to expand...

Hi, what is the problem with your temperature sensor?

When I did my installation, I experienced some weird issues. Initially I was getting temperature about 200 degrees Celsius. The problem was a pull up resistor in my controller on the input. I checked several photos available on the internet and I realised that it was present only on my controller. I checked two solutions: 1. - use 12 volt power for the temperature sensor or 2. - remove the resistor. As I did not wanted to install 12 volt power supply, I finally removed the pull up resistor.

Click to expand...

As soon as i wire the temperature sensor to the controller it won`t start anymore.
It just displays the "waiting for TSDZ".
i removed the sensor again to check if this is the reason for the start-up problem and it works just fine without the sensor.
Afterwards i installed it again and got the same error as before.
i did also some testing with the seetings in the display but nothing did the trick for me.


Regarding the light´s problem:
i just can`t figure out how to get my workspace running.
it seems i can`t set the "make all" command in the C(++) setting, even though i have installed everything correctly (nodejs, openODC, ARM toolchain, etc...). did someone stumble over the same problems as i do ? it seems a little bit overcomplicated to get the bat file running.

jeff.page.rides said:

AZUR said:

=

Power Delay Issue on a Flat Road

In the Video that I present below it is possible to verify the existence of the problem even in flat roads.

I would also like to mention that when I made this video I did not detect the problem. Perhaps due to kinetic energy. It was when I saw the video that I noticed. But on steep roads the effect and the lack of power are quite felt due to the delay.

The following can be seen:

- At (minute: s, ms) 1: 14,397 I stopped pedaling
- At (minute: s, ms) 1: 20,307 I started pedaling again.
6s877ms later.
- 100 ms later the motor current starts to increase.
- only 1m485ms later the PWM starts to increase.

If PWM = 0 the motor power is zero.

Power Delay Issue it is more visible, on youtube, if the video is being presented with a playback speed of 0.25.

The video was recorded at a speed of 30 frames per second.

With the free Windows VideoPad program that you can download here https://www.nchsoftware.com/videopad/index.html, you can see the evolution of video frame by frame.


[youtube]LvnlBgy8ulo[/youtube]

As I showed in a previous post, the Power Delay Issue is more evident and critical on steep roads, or unpaved paths.

It is also shown that the delay is greater with the highest assistance levels.

However, even at assistance level 9 you can see the delay in the video.

Above Level 9, I do not recommend using these levels on MTB circuits.


In the various Videos I made, and the tests I did, what I was able to verify is that all levels of assistance can be used.
Up to level 20, it can be used without any problems and instability.

It also seems to me that the torque sensor is not a problem.

I hope that this information will help to solve this issue, if there is a solution to the problem.

Click to expand...

Version 1 has so much Less low end torque than version 20 it's a real bummer.
And like you said when you stop peddling and start peddling again with V1 there's a big dead spot.
If V20 would work on the 850C and 860C I would switch back to V20.
V1 does have a few things I like better, but these 2 problems above and that V1 is so complicated to set it up correctly is what makes V1 such a pain.
Listed below are some of the previous post I discussed the same problems you're dealing with.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1577655&hilit=jeff.page.rides#p1577655
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1577574&hilit=jeff.page.rides#p1577537
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1575117&hilit=jeff.page.rides#p1575199
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1574958&hilit=jeff.page.rides#p1574958

Click to expand...

Thanks Jeff.page.rides,

I read the previous posts you indicated.

I just presented the "Delay Problem" in detail to try to help find a solution.

As we know, the first step to start solving a problem is to know the problem in detail.

I am convinced that Casainho will soon find a solution to the Delay Problem.

Now that the problem is well identified, we can live with it for a few more days until Casainho has time and availability to solve it.

Regarding Startup Boost that many people speculate about, I don't understand why they still continue to use and test it.
We have to believe and trust Casainho who has already informed us that Startup Boost is not working.
It is written in the Firmware configuration instructions.

Regarding the "Less Low end torque" you mention, perhaps this problem will be solved when the Startup Boost function is corrected and working.

My wife also complained about it when she migrated from the manufacturer's firmware. But he still continues to use V1.

However, I still haven't really felt the problem. As I am an MTB Ryder what I do is that when I stop I put a lighter gear. So when I start I don't need to apply too much force on the pedals.

So what I advise, too, in relation to this problem is that we wait until Casainho solves it in the next firmware version.

In conclusion, once these two problems are already identified, let us have patience, for some time, that the solution will appear soon. So I hope!


It is my humble opinion.

However, I promise that I will investigate the "Less Low end torque" problem that you refer to, and later I will give my opinion on it.

I hope this information helps the members of this forum.

hello,
i flashed my tsdz2 with open firmware 1.0.0 and I made the bootloader flash to my sw102 display so it has firmware 0.19.12.



The displayed voltage seems to be correct but what does the "no motor?" mean? i conclude there is something wrong with the communication to the controller but switching rx/tx wires didnt solve the issue.

Unfortunately i believe that i broke something during opening the case because the display cant be turned on.
Only if i connect the blue controller wire (power) with the blue display wire the display becomes alive.
I read about damaged lcd3 displays that in case of a broken transistor in the display the display wont turn on permanently so that the on/off button had to be kept pushed or the red and blue kt controller button should be wired together with the result that the display/controller would be turned on permanently.

However unless i receive a new display i would like to know whether someone has an idea which part could be broken and whether display firmware 0.19.12 and controller firmware 1.0.0 match together at alll?

Bluetooth Update of the display is not possible since it cant be turned on by button press - it can be only turned off by button. After turning off by power button i cant turn it on again but have to power off the battery and on again. Therefore i cannot perform a bluetooth ota update and firmware 0.19.12 was the newest available hex file i could download.

If i short click on the display power button i see:



Whereas in the first picture the voltage is more or less correct i see only 0.0v. therefore i wonder whether installing a olfer tsdz2 firmware could help to use the display at least temporarily.

Thanks in advance

Hey guys.

Running into a big issue. I have a 750w TSDZ2 motor with 14s2p 52v battery. This is my second tsdz2 build and I feel like the motor is struggling big time. It heats up super fast to the point I am afraid to do my 15km commute, because after 4km ride - the motor was pretty hot to the touch.

Motor current hits the limit every time I accelerate. Not sure what to do, does anyone know what the issue might be
Posting a couple pictures, not sure if the will help.

Just finished fixing a puncture on my road/gravel frame and took it for the second spin since finishing the build last night .

Thought I would try 'power' mode instead of torque mode. Smoother for sure, but crikey it's gutless! No wonder everyone complains about v1. 0.0 compared to 0.20beta.

Peacepirate said:

hello,
i flashed my tsdz2 with open firmware 1.0.0 and I made the bootloader flash to my sw102 display so it has firmware 0.19.12.



The displayed voltage seems to be correct but what does the "no motor?" mean? i conclude there is something wrong with the communication to the controller but switching rx/tx wires didnt solve the issue.

Unfortunately i believe that i broke something during opening the case because the display cant be turned on.
Only if i connect the blue controller wire (power) with the blue display wire the display becomes alive.
I read about damaged lcd3 displays that in case of a broken transistor in the display the display wont turn on permanently so that the on/off button had to be kept pushed or the red and blue kt controller button should be wired together with the result that the display/controller would be turned on permanently.

However unless i receive a new display i would like to know whether someone has an idea which part could be broken and whether display firmware 0.19.12 and controller firmware 1.0.0 match together at alll?

Bluetooth Update of the display is not possible since it cant be turned on by button press - it can be only turned off by button. After turning off by power button i cant turn it on again but have to power off the battery and on again. Therefore i cannot perform a bluetooth ota update and firmware 0.19.12 was the newest available hex file i could download.

If i short click on the display power button i see:



Whereas in the first picture the voltage is more or less correct i see only 0.0v. therefore i wonder whether installing a olfer tsdz2 firmware could help to use the display at least temporarily.

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

You must put the ota package onto the sw102 using your smartphone in order to use it with 1.0.0

I've done three displays now, no issue. Which bit is not working for you? You can power them from the stlink for doing the ota update. No need to have it connected to the bike.

HugoM said:

Hey guys.

Running into a big issue. I have a 750w TSDZ2 motor with 14s2p 52v battery. This is my second tsdz2 build and I feel like the motor is struggling big time. It heats up super fast to the point I am afraid to do my 15km commute, because after 4km ride - the motor was pretty hot to the touch.

Motor current hits the limit every time I accelerate. Not sure what to do, does anyone know what the issue might be
Posting a couple pictures, not sure if the will help.

Click to expand...

Ideas:
- issue with hall sensors connections or such: check on display the hall sensors
- motor coils are burned
- bad contact on some motor phase wire

Is there a list of the error codes and their explanation for v. 1.0.0? I could not find any in the wiki.

I'm wondering this because on my SW102 I see code "e: 03 Torq" which I assume refers to the torque sensor, but the torque and cadence readings in the menu seem completely fine. The error also occurs only after the motor engages, not at start-up. Of course I need to open the motor but would be nice to have an idea where to start looking for the fault.

Edit: nevermind, after some searching I found out it's most probably a problem with the hall sensors.

Dear pro's,

I do appreciate the efforts and energy you put into making TSDZ2 better! Thank you!
I just purchased 860C display, got all necessary gadgets to go for FOS install. However, I am totally lost which FOS should I go for.
What version is stable and has no issues?
I am not planning to install temp sensor for the time being, no lights either.
TSDZ2 48V 750W, 12Ah battery.

casainho said:

HugoM said:

Hey guys.

Running into a big issue. I have a 750w TSDZ2 motor with 14s2p 52v battery. This is my second tsdz2 build and I feel like the motor is struggling big time. It heats up super fast to the point I am afraid to do my 15km commute, because after 4km ride - the motor was pretty hot to the touch.

Motor current hits the limit every time I accelerate. Not sure what to do, does anyone know what the issue might be
Posting a couple pictures, not sure if the will help.

Click to expand...

Ideas:
- issue with hall sensors connections or such: check on display the hall sensors
- motor coils are burned
- bad contact on some motor phase wire

Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer, really appreciate everything you have done so far.

The motor was struggling right out of the box (although didn't try the stock version and flashed it straight away), so burned out motor is unlikely. However, I checked hall sensor values on display and there is no sequence, the values seem completely random.

1st try: 2464131651616423412161625262
2nd try: 1516546432362545153651424635

Kinda bummed as it is a brand new motor - need to change torque sensor?

HugoM said:

The motor was struggling right out of the box (although didn't try the stock version and flashed it straight away), so burned out motor is unlikely. However, I checked hall sensor values on display and there is no sequence, the values seem completely random.

1st try: 2464131651616423412161625262
2nd try: 1516546432362545153651424635

Click to expand...

If you rotate backwards the EBike wheel, very slowly, you should see a repetitive pattern otherwise means hall sensors signals are failing - maybe check the connector

satiene said:

Dear pro's,

I do appreciate the efforts and energy you put into making TSDZ2 better! Thank you!
I just purchased 860C display, got all necessary gadgets to go for FOS install. However, I am totally lost which FOS should I go for.
What version is stable and has no issues?
I am not planning to install temp sensor for the time being, no lights either.
TSDZ2 48V 750W, 12Ah battery.

Click to expand...

For 860c you need the firmware fork that is discussed in this thread. 1.0.0 is the version number.

Hello,

I run into a problem. When switching the battery power button, the controller make a short beep. Pressing the start button does nothing. Anyone else had this problem?

Thanks!

maximusdm said:

Hello,

I run into a problem. When switching the battery power button, the controller make a short beep. Pressing the start button does nothing. Anyone else had this problem?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Should not happen, there is no hardware for make a beep. I would say your controller is burned / not working.

AZUR said:

jeff.page.rides said:

AZUR said:

=
. . . . . .

Click to expand...

. . . . . . .

Click to expand...

. . . . . . . . .

Regarding Startup Boost that many people speculate about, I don't understand why they still continue to use and test it.
We have to believe and trust Casainho who has already informed us that Startup Boost is not working.
It is written in the Firmware configuration instructions.
. . . . . . . . .
I hope this information helps the members of this forum.

Click to expand...

Just a reminder, it does need to be mentioned that "on is off" and "off is on". That is a stumbling block for the uninitiated since that is not pointed out in the instructions you mention.

AZUR said:

If PWM = 0 the motor power is zero.

Power Delay Issue it is more visible, on youtube, if the video is being presented with a playback speed of 0.25.

Click to expand...

I think I understand the root of this issue, and may be the same for the issue on lights not working. I think the issue is that the firmware is trying to control the current with a minimum value 0.156 amps with the same as the control step of 0.156 amps - I mean, the current min value should be an higher value like 1 amp, so there are 6 steps to control the current. Right now, I think that when PWM is 0 and will start to increase, the current value will bounce near zero before finally increase and that bounce is taking the undesirable time... I thin the solution may be to force the min current value to be like 1 amp.

My focus is to develop the TSDZ2 wireless and then I will be back to the TSDZ2 firmware.

Alphonse said:

AZUR said:

jeff.page.rides said:

AZUR said:

=
. . . . . .

Click to expand...

. . . . . . .

Click to expand...

. . . . . . . . .

Regarding Startup Boost that many people speculate about, I don't understand why they still continue to use and test it.
We have to believe and trust Casainho who has already informed us that Startup Boost is not working.
It is written in the Firmware configuration instructions.
. . . . . . . . .
I hope this information helps the members of this forum.

Click to expand...

Just a reminder, it does need to be mentioned that "on is off" and "off is on". That is a stumbling block for the uninitiated since that is not pointed out in the instructions you mention.

Click to expand...

*
+
Thanks Alphonse,

I understand what you say, however, it seems to me that Casainho is very clear in the information related to Startup Boost.

He wrote in the configuration manual:
WARNING: do not enable/use BOOST feature because it is currently buggy.

So, unless Casainho says otherwise, I have configured with "Disable" which means that Startup Boost is not active.

Because if what you say is correct and I have the Startup boost variables badly configured, I may not have the engine working properly.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding! And I would like to be clarified on this issue.

With so many configuration variables to parameterize it is very complicated to be considering hypotheses that the person who developed the firmware says they are not working properly.

This issue can cause many problems for those who are testing the firmware. The person who is configuring does not know if he should be guided by the firmware configuration instructions, or by the opinions, possibly correct, of the members of this forum.

In my opinion, we should be guided by what Casainho writes.

And Casainho follows this forum daily.

If he thinks it is necessary he will change the firmware configuration instructions to clarify this issue.

So, Alphonse, once again I sincerely thank you for the information, but I will only consider your information after Casainho confirms it.
I hope you understand my position.

Thanks

I am guided 100% by the performance I experience when I test ride my bicycle. I spent the best part of 1hr riding up the same hill, tuning the startup boost so that I was able to get the most response from a start with my motor. I stay with this setting now for over 500km and I have set my other motor up the same way.

This is a copy of a reply to an email I received asking about the displays and firmware available for the TSDZ2.
I thought I would share my opinion on the different versions of firmware and the different displays

Hi Lee,

There are four different displays with three different firmware programs available for the TSDZ2. The 860C display only works with V1 but is by far the best display. The 850C display works with V1 and V19 but you can’t read it in the sun. The LCD3 display works with V19 and V20 and is a good display that works in the sun, but has to be disassembled to flash. The VLCD5 is a very limited display that works with the stock firmware and V20. But to change settings or view different information with V20 is very difficult. But the display doesn’t need to be flashed, only the motors need to be flashed and it’s easy and very quick to flash with different settings and works well with V20.

Version 1 is very refined but very complex and difficult to set up and to get working correctly. It does have the potential to be very good at some point down the road, but at this time lacks low RPM power and starting power. It also doesn't work well with a coaster brake, when you stop pedaling it stops but has a high rate of resistance when you pull back to brake, you have to move the pedals back forward 1 inch then pull back again and the resistance stops so you can brake.
It is the only version at this time that works on the 860C which is the best display.

Version 20 is very good, but it could use a few refinements. I believe this is the very best software for any setup.
I hope at some point someone will get version 20 to work with the 860C.

Version 19 is an older version that some people still like, but will never be improved, it does not work with coaster brake motors.

If you could take the good parts of version 1 and version 20 and get them to work on an 860C that would be the very best scenario.

Later,
Jeff

jeff.page.rides said:

This is a copy of a reply to an email I received asking about the displays and firmware available for the TSDZ2.
I thought I would share my opinion on the different versions of firmware and the different displays
. . . . . . . .

Click to expand...

Nice summary Jeff, thanks for posting. Your efforts here are much appreciated.

AZUR said:

So, unless Casainho says otherwise, I have configured with "Disable" which means that Startup Boost is not active.

Click to expand...

Boost works, and is easy to empirically test that it is working. The key bug is the fact the enable/disable setting is reversed, though there do seem to be some smoothing issues at higher power levels.

In fact if you have it "disabled" in your settings, you are actually using it

mctubster said:

Boost works, and is easy to empirically test that it is working. The key bug is the fact the enable/disable setting is reversed, though there do seem to be some smoothing issues at higher power levels.

In fact if you have it "disabled" in your settings, you are actually using it

Click to expand...

Thanks Mctubster
Can you please tell me how can I test?

It looks like we can't disable Startup Boost? Or can we disable it by putting Startup Boost Boost on Enable?

I will appreciate it.

AZUR said:

mctubster said:

Boost works, and is easy to empirically test that it is working. The key bug is the fact the enable/disable setting is reversed, though there do seem to be some smoothing issues at higher power levels.

In fact if you have it "disabled" in your settings, you are actually using it

Click to expand...

Thanks Mctubster
Can you please tell me how can I test?

It looks like we can't disable Startup Boost? Or can we disable it by putting Startup Boost Boost on Enable?

I will appreciate it.

Click to expand...

When it is set to disabled it is actually enabled. Play around with the duration and fade values whilst riding in the same gear, on the same hill. You will see that changes to these values do make a difference.