new eZip motor

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. A lazy alcoholic.

All I seem to do most days is sleep off a hang over. I slept until about 3 PM AGAIN !
Looking at Monday or some day next week to go to the bike shop and get the 1,000W hub motor put on to a new rim.

I just brought the 15 Ah SLA up stairs that I use to keep my van battery charged. It seems I am dealing with a short somewhere in the electrical system of the vehicle as the 15 Ah pack was drained to below 60% capacity for the second day in a row and all that is supposed to be drawing power is the by mile device which requires constant power but should only be a few milliamps.

I did not open any doors or anything. I need a second 12V power supply as I want to start charging those LiPos outside in the van. I need to start working with these 18650 cells. I do not have a 3S BMS but do have two 6S LiPo chargers. Perhaps I can charge them with a 6S balance cable and then unhook one bullet plug and combine for 3S or 12V to use for the other LiPo charger out in the van.

I also want to run the old 10P 10S Lithium ion pack I used to test the 1,500 watt controller with the 41V limiting current. I am not 100% sure my multi-meter is working correctly but it did read 40V yesterday and the controller seemed to be putting out a lot of power but doubt it was putting out 1,500 watts. I need to test it tomorrow at 39V or 38V so will be taking a short ride with the 800 watt hub motor. I just want to make sure I wont get stranded somewhere with the 20" bike with the 1,800 watt brush-less motor.

I would also like to order a new brush assembly and repair the 1,000 W 48V MY1020 motor that has a short as it should come with brand new power wires but I do not know where to order a part like that and if the price would be cheaper than a new motor. I wish someone would let me know. Someone please post.

Thanks.

LC. out.

A lead acid "trickle charger" continuously charges, whether needed or not (though at differing levels), and keeps the battery warm.

Inverter also draws some power full time.

Those were the 2P - 10S pack that survived one of my biggest F ups back in NY about two years ago now. Both BMSs were the same but for some reason that BMS seemed to work while the other failed miserably.

Some of the cells were very low , like around a volt. I was going to parallel charge four cells at a time that were close to the same voltage however the really low cells trip the low voltage on the charger so have to hook them in parallel to the higher voltage cells.

I also have about 39 other cells that were not in those packs but just old wore out laptop cells. Not sure but was thinking about 13 in parallel or 3S - 13P. I can parallel those to the ones I am charging.

How many BMSs should I order and how many cells in parallel should I hook up. Also I need to get more of that liquid rubber and tape the sides and paint in the rubber around the top on the positive end to avoid shorting out. I will have to solder wires to the ends like I did before.

This will be practice as I may order a lot of 100 or 200 cells. I really do not want to solder inside my 400 square foot apartment though. It really stinks/ Even with a fan in a window some of that smoke gets in the apartment. My wife has advanced COPD and is why I also need to charge LiPo packs in the van.

Since I need at least two 12V power sources out there I need to order at least 1 - 22 Ah SLA or two 10 Ah. I have 95 bucks on my green dot card. It is part of my budget for the month as far as the e bike workshop goes. My budget is 200 bucks or less but already have close to 50 bucks for brake work downstairs on a bike I am giving away and I still need 50 bucks to lace the 1,000 watt hub motor to a new rim. I know I need a 700C tube and tire for the 500 watt front geared e bikeling motor I am taking off easy street and installing on the Giant Roam.

It looks like the 1,000 watt rear hub motor kit will be my Christmas present next month. I am also looking at the Haro V3 and not sure what to do with that. I asked several times if it is possible to order parts for motors. I had more than one brush motor apart and am sure if I could get a new brush assembly with the power wires I could get it back together. I would be willing to pay 20 to 30 bucks with shipping.

I need to do a second test with that 1,500 watt brushless controller. The old 10P - 36V packs are probably around 38V so will ride it down to about 37 or 36 to see if I lose power as it said 41V it was limited. I need to know so I don't get stranded somewhere. Please let me know and also tell me if I am on the right track with the 18650 cells. Thanks.

LC. out.

11/8/20/ 6:31 PM.

The old 10P - 6S packs are down to 37.7V. The 1,500 watt brushless controller is putting out about 1,000 watts I would guess. I rode about 2 miles maybe but around the neighborhood. I was close to or at full throttle. I am not having any more issues with the chain coming loose since I added the braces to the seat post on both chain drive builds.

However the chains are as tight as a banjo , especially the #40 chain on the brushless motor. The #25 chain on the Schwinn I rode the other day is also tight but not nearly as noticeable. The only thing I am worried about is the motor sprocket wearing out.

The chain is so tight the bike slows down with no brakes at all. You can notice it a lot coasting down a little hill with a slight decline. The chain is holding the bike back. Too bad they don't make titanium motor sprockets for chain drive builders like me. I got it running great though otherwise.

The reason why I said 1,000 watts as it is about the same acceleration that the 1,000 watt 48V MY1020 motor was way back when my 6S LiPo packs were fully charged and total voltage was around 49V. I did 29 mph in a video with a 24" bike with a 20" wheel on the back and the same 60T spoke sprocket that is on this 20" bike now.

I do not know if I trust the bike at 48 or 50 volts. I bet it will go about 34 mph but am worried about the motor sprocket. The #40 chain wont break and neither will the 60T wheel sprocket. The motor only got slightly warm after several runs close to full throttle and around 25 mph I would guess. I would think the chain is taking about 3 or 4 mph off the top speed. But maybe not. Here are the specs.

Motor rating. 1,800 watts at 48V - 3,000 RPMs.

3,000 / 48 = 62.5 * 37V = 2,312.5 RPMs. -----37V - tested today.

62.5 * 40 = 2,500. ------- 40V

62.5 * 50 = 3,125. -------- 50V



However gearing at 37V compared to the 40V I calculated to be geared for 27 mph I would guess that it is exactly where it should be. The chain could be taking 1 or 2 mph off top speed but no way to tell without a speedometer. I would guess I did 25 mph today. I was not able to go much more than 1 block though at full throttle and the bike seemed like it was still accelerating before I let up on the throttle as I have absolutely NO working brakes yet. When I hook up 48V that will tell the whole story.

Thanks.

LC. out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-DC-Motor-Brushless-Electric-Motor-3000W-BLDC-mini-bike-efficiency-scooter/184178241433?epid=19041200559&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ae1e0ef99:g:7RcAAOSwJhZeThsh&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickk8Fd9si%252FIbtWQr%252BhnlRwjDcQakPu6KJaVXc4Ot1OIKxy7SkWBLEfiZtev5L%252Fmwrx6%252B1Wbxdyo8%252F1jJDGYvPL0NiGppgfHmGRjFlcqtrfwO71mCBG9sRK9TVTgxPv4wn01%252BUwYgF5w4U1%252BR8BYl3eSCZ7HFh39UAuvjHVP%252FAeCHpbr6EzFyKonhHiPZ0sWYKQnXZ9Yggo9puep1NGVjvH%252FlwKY0hcIiUvzu4yrSsO1uAScHgfqNZuobEbdyebzB%252F6m2CdaoQJfRZy9vAhYk8BaFdKarnGjsxtWcg%252BnKXIk%252BZsSHPYsQh4Z8SsxCDiJACyO6zMkwkqMI%252F%252BY1eKpfIJ3HkTgz7aIGcLu6lFXJ6YaTMOd%252BGbyFiNHsyT3TE1qRVoDu%252B%252Bcb8aa6X982ogUDzVIU7Nyyt7YXEoI8tibwQ3T5GqORrbOjUUayeTd%252Fw7o2gozFFG18E5yWezvgqWCRZiLn9225PtJg6lcUr4kL%252B68cyRwQjriJddYa%252F3wH%252Fap9D4EWW3pGBpuNm6KEOlq2HfUPAmNCrXKNLOw2uAU%252FjaD5XM2m%252BepdPSeXVjPAYiFHqDKCVVzryrdJE9F8aH6ADUg1b36UEm7N42ZciO5lCzTRaYoLfEalqhz94uvYknDEKwxFz%252FdTCH5vTfXDh6P1FHNponGunwKlIT%252FqsAlHcfacmX7ADwGa4ryLRAfqDfriKBNB%252FzHntpOeWU4dRrKwfHhUHsK4MU4WQIEcK23xdNI1vCuR%252B8QID5SfdOveeZvku5FjQ9FY8ptDHZAhv0P1sOR0g%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A184178241433facba23d2afd4a7fb81eeb2307ce1a0d%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

It was several years ago in upstate NY I took the original Currie rack off the Currie and installed it on the Haro V3. My first MY1020 48V 1,000 watt motor did not have a base plate on it. I got two long thin bolts and went thru the holes in the motor to install it.

This will be even stronger as I can bolt it down on the bottom and run at least one bolt thru the motor at the top and of course add the muffler clamp also. Notice how close the motor sprocket will be to the wheel sprocket. I hope the 72 tooth wheel sprocket won't be too big. I am sure there is a way to raise the motor if I have to, Also John has welding equipment. I could get a bracket welded on to the existing shelf in the picture that held the electrodes that the currie battery case sat on. (see pic under sprocket calculator below)

4,900 RPM / 72 = 68 .05 * 60 = 4,000 RPM.

3,000 W / 72 = 41.6 * 60 = 2,500 W

43 mph respectively.

Thanks.

LC. out

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16114


https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1500W-26-Rear-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Kit-Conversion-EBike-Cycling-Hub/233661671154?_trkparms=aid%3D1110012%26algo%3DSPLICE.SOIPOST%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D229890%26meid%3De20c6add30574ab990040a98fb64562e%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D233722741152%26itm%3D233661671154%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPromotedSellersOtherItemsV2&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219







490 RPMs / 12.93 = 37.89 mph.

I am not buying a rear 1,000 watt motor for the 26" dual suspension and defiantly not ordering the 3,000 watt brushless motor any time soon. I can get 37 mph with a 1,500 watt rear hub motor on the 26" dual suspension.

The Haro V3 will run the 1,000W MY1020 motor when I fix it on the back with a 24" wheel and the 60T spoke sprocket kit. Gearing at 36V - 2 ,250 RPM and 750 watts is 29 mph.



Since I am putting a 1,500 watt hub motor on the 26" dual suspension the 1,000 watt hub motor that I am getting laced to a good double wall 26" rim it will be perfect at 48V and 28 mph on the front of the Haro V3. 29 mph wont happen but 28 mph will and both motors will work together up hills. I can also get a pedal chain and derailleur hooked up so will be an awesome hill climber. The rear chain drive won't even be needed on the flat.

I am going to take the brush assembly down stairs and drop it off with my 60 watt iron and solder. I will give Chad the guy who works on bikes 10 bucks to solder the wire back on. Then walking to Wall-Mart to get thread and gorilla tape. for the springs to hold the brushes in so I can put it back together. The Haro V3 will have two motors which are broken but getting fixed. It will be an awesome and reliable 28 mph e bike.

Thanks.

Lc. out.

You need to get it together and start riding!

Wish I was in someplace where the weather is warm, I'd be out riding every single day. I'd be seeing granola's with turtle necks and fleece and I'd be shirtless.

markz said:

You need to get it together and start riding!

Wish I was in someplace where the weather is warm, I'd be out riding every single day. I'd be seeing granola's with turtle necks and fleece and I'd be shirtless.

Click to expand...

You know what? You're right. I've let my bike sit too long unfinished because I have nowhere to go. (Work from home). But they are the best rides. Nowhere to go, nowhere to be.

I'm gonna make some time to finish off my project.

The reason I do not ride a lot is my health. I am obese and have type 2 diabetes. I walked about 6 miles to Wall=Mart and back earlier tonight. I need to get my cardio in at least two or three times a week.

The inverter and trickle charger is not using as much power as I thought. Also it looks like there is no short in the vans electrical system. It is the 3 amp trickle charger that reads low. I tested the SLAs after almost 24 hours hooked up in the van and were still over 12V.

I bought a third 7.5 Ah SLA at Wall-Mart so I can have 36V. They will be for the Clear Creek Schwinn I am giving to John with the 36V 800 watt motor. I do not want to give John my old 10S - 10P 36V pack even though they are about 5 years old as those Lithium packs are good for 15 miles easily. I thought about it and can run the MY1020 motor on the back of the HaroV3 WITH the front hub motor for going up hills and run the front 26" hub motor only on the flat with the new packs when I get it fixed.

Likewise I can run the Giant Roams rear 500 watt hub motor with the old Lithium packs and the front 500 watt motor with the new packs. Both bikes will be using only the front hub motor about 90% of the time because there are not many hills where I am at here in Ohio.

I ordered a 700C front tire for the Giant Roam also and the BMSs are for the 12V pack I am building with the old 18650 cells. The 22 Ah SLA will power my inverter for trickle charging the van battery and also a LiPo charger for charging in the van where it is safe to charge old LiPo packs.

I still have to order a 36V - SLA charger and a couple of three wire thumb throttles to order tonight. I put 45 extra bucks on my green dot card so have over 50 bucks to work with.



Thanks.

LC. out.

The three cells in the back on the top pic. came out of the pouch with the old laptop cells in the bottom pic. All three tested over 4V and have been sitting NOT USED about 2 years. I might have charged them at some point and remember running capacity tests and think that the average test was between 1 and 2 AH per cell but really not sure. It could be a wild guess.

Looking at around 30 cells , hopefully 33 for a 3S pack. Just setting up the charging area I begin to understand the enthusiasm DA. feels and felt when building large capacity packs from cells that many people just throw out. I have much respect for the recharging ability of the 18650 cell dealing with the old 10S - 10P packs still 15 mile capable , maybe a little more depending upon hills.

I know my soldering skills leave much to be desired but the 40 brown LG cells I did solder wires to held up better than expected. I remember re soldering one in NY and a couple days ago saw 1 more that did not hold the solder. Note that I had a LiPo fire back in NY with those and Kentucky fried a 10S - 2P pack. The bike tipped over and the packs were knocked around and still out of 40 cells I soldered only two cells needed re soldering.

I will practice on these 30 to 33 decent cells for a 10 to 13P - 3S pack and after that the sky is the limit. John wants me to invest in the stock market. I know nothing about it and he tried calling me at 3 AM the other day. He has a multi millionaire giving him tips on what to buy. I need to look into it.

I am thinking about a lot of 100 to 200 tested 18650 cells and building large capacity packs. 48 and 60V. Mostly 48V at most of my bikes can run 48V. Only the two 36V - 500W e bikeling motors run better at 36V as 48V could take a significant amount of life off the motors. All other motors except the 500W Unite motor I am not using will run great at 48V.

FACT.

I currently have 5 running e bikes and am only passing one and have plans for two more soon so 5 or 6 e bikes in about a month or two but only own a 5 year old 10P - 36V lithium ion pack at or below 50% capacity and a new (less than 100 cycles) 8P - 10S 36V pack and four 6S - 5 Ah LiPos that are defiantly below 50% capacity.

It is time to build a large 13S - 54V - 10 to 15P pack and maybe a 16S - 10P pack also but probably not as those 4S hard-shell LiPos Dan posted awhile back looked like a great deal. I do not need 60V except for going 40+ mph. :lol: 12S or 13S is perfect. I have enough 36V batteries. A very large 48 or 54V pack however is exactly what I need.

Thanks.

LC. out.

FYI, you only need the front bit of the URL


Very poor netiquette to post such a crazy long one.

latecurtis said:

Code:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-DC-Motor-Brushless-Electric-Motor-3000W-BLDC-mini-bike-efficiency-scooter/184178241433?epid=19041200559&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2ae1e0ef99:g:7RcAAOSwJhZeThsh&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickk8Fd9si%252FIbtWQr%252BhnlRwjDcQakPu6KJaVXc4Ot1OIKxy7SkWBLEfiZtev5L%252Fmwrx6%252B1Wbxdyo8%252F1jJDGYvPL0NiGppgfHmGRjFlcqtrfwO71mCBG9sRK9TVTgxPv4wn01%252BUwYgF5w4U1%252BR8BYl3eSCZ7HFh39UAuvjHVP%252FAeCHpbr6EzFyKonhHiPZ0sWYKQnXZ9Yggo9puep1NGVjvH%252FlwKY0hcIiUvzu4yrSsO1uAScHgfqNZuobEbdyebzB%252F6m2CdaoQJfRZy9vAhYk8BaFdKarnGjsxtWcg%252BnKXIk%252BZsSHPYsQh4Z8SsxCDiJACyO6zMkwkqMI%252F%252BY1eKpfIJ3HkTgz7aIGcLu6lFXJ6YaTMOd%252BGbyFiNHsyT3TE1qRVoDu%252B%252Bcb8aa6X982ogUDzVIU7Nyyt7YXEoI8tibwQ3T5GqORrbOjUUayeTd%252Fw7o2gozFFG18E5yWezvgqWCRZiLn9225PtJg6lcUr4kL%252B68cyRwQjriJddYa%252F3wH%252Fap9D4EWW3pGBpuNm6KEOlq2HfUPAmNCrXKNLOw2uAU%252FjaD5XM2m%252BepdPSeXVjPAYiFHqDKCVVzryrdJE9F8aH6ADUg1b36UEm7N42ZciO5lCzTRaYoLfEalqhz94uvYknDEKwxFz%252FdTCH5vTfXDh6P1FHNponGunwKlIT%252FqsAlHcfacmX7ADwGa4ryLRAfqDfriKBNB%252FzHntpOeWU4dRrKwfHhUHsK4MU4WQIEcK23xdNI1vCuR%252B8QID5SfdOveeZvku5FjQ9FY8ptDHZAhv0P1sOR0g%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A184178241433facba23d2afd4a7fb81eeb2307ce1a0d%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

Click to expand...

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. After struggling at least an hour I got the MY1020 motor fixed yesterday. The guy down stairs don't know how to weld. I did the best I could as the 60 watt iron broke and the 30 watt could not even melt solder. I need to order a real soldering iron. I had a lot of trouble getting it back together also but finally succeeded and tested it with one of the controllers with the built in pot. for a throttle

I am just not motivated to do much these days.100,000 people a day are getting sick and lord knows how many are dying. It seems like we all might as well just kill ourselves now to save ourselves from the suffering. A 50 cent shot gun shell is a lot quicker than rolling around in a hospital bed.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Don't do it LC.

I survived the QUAD bypass surgery. Was locked in a Covid room since My sister was tested positive. 10 frickin days in a bed I didn't like. Most nurses were great. 6 hour surgery and 10 fays in bed. My wife wasn't allowed in since she saw my sister before my surgery. getting better as the days go on.

You might send me your address in a message, I might have some goodies.

Dan

The only hope we got is the vaccine if it will work.

Glad you are ok. I wondered why you have not posted lately. That would explain it. I was supposed to get tested to see if I need surgery last fall but kept putting it off and then there was COVID so never went back. The doctor wanted to repair a theoretic aortic aneurism and replace a leaky heart valve. I am still on blood pressure pills until I run out. Not sure what happens after that.

My wife has advanced COPD and needs oxygen but wont go out of the house because of COVID. If she gets it it will be a death sentence as she can hardly breath now. I just stay inside most of the time.

I thought I had a 11 tooth #40 sprocket somewhere but can't find it. I wanted to mount the MY1020 motor I fixed yesterday. I guess I have to order one. I need to order a soldering iron also as I can solder with the 120 watt inverter. I also took a ride on the 20" bike with the 1,500 watt controller and 1,800 watt motor. The packs were down to 37.2V when I got back. I did not notice and current limitations. I believe the current limit feature needed a wire hooked up so think I will be ok. I have not got 44 or 48V to it yet as am waiting for the 22 Ah SLA to show up.

I really do not need to build any more e bikes as I have enough but it passes the time. I am not sure about the 3,000 watt brushless motor or the 1,500 watt rear hub motor. All my mail goes to my PO. box so nothing gets stolen. I will PM you that. Those spokes you sent will fix the 1,000 watt hub motor as eventually will get it done at the bike shop about 5 miles away. I just have not wanted to do much because of COVID.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Is it really that hard to just stay at home, and maybe go for a ride every now and then, maybe do some fishing and when necessary go to the store and social distance and wear a mask and disinfect the cart. What I tend to do is bring along some paper towel, and I rip a piece off to use for the door handle and as the door opens and I walk inside just drop that piece of paper towel. Elevator/Train buttons same thing. Safety is worth more then littering, dont know the rates for surface covid but dont take the risk on high touch surfaces. Its nice to bring along some disinfectant hand spray. I buy bulk and pour into little carrying sprayer. Ever since I can walk from broken leg bones, its been 3 weeks now walking and getting better everyday, I havent been out much at all and remember with broken bones it was 2.25 months of sitting down all day every day. I got excited when I had my monthly doctors appointment, it made my month. Then slowly I got out once a week to socialize and it made my week. Now I am 100% mobile, yet havent left the house in days. Went out today for a shopping trip, TP, parts to fix furniture, salt for water softener, -45C washer fluid since there was just 0C in car. Then I said Fuk it and bought a Subway, even splurged on extra cheese and bacon. Its really not that bad a deal to just stay home. Sorry that I aint formatting this wall of text cuz it dont matter but the moral of the story is, ITS REALLY NOT THAT HARD TO JUST STAY HOME...... unless you are in a small apartment or something, like I know some places 400sqft apartments/condos are a thing now.

markz said:

What I tend to do is bring along some paper towel, and I rip a piece off to use for the door handle and as the door opens and I walk inside just drop that piece of paper towel. Elevator/Train buttons same thing.

Click to expand...

I carry a small microfiber cloth moistened with Spic and Span Anti-bacterial\Anti-viral spray. ($1 at Dollar Tree stores)
In baggie, going to hand before entering building.
Touching only with cloth and "sanitizing" hand after anything touched ... change, credit card entry buttons etc.

A moistened glove? Not sure about prolonged skin contact ...

What I tend to do is bring along some paper towel, and I rip a piece off to use for the door handle and as the door opens and I walk inside just drop that piece of paper towel. Elevator/Train buttons same thing.

Click to expand...

I carry a small microfiber cloth moistened with Spic and Span Anti-bacterial\Anti-viral spray. ($1 at Dollar Tree stores)

Click to expand...

Yes. Both methods will work. I carry hand sanitizer and just rub a decent amount in before and after touching anything and at Wall-Mart and Save a Lot they have a spray bottle and I spray the cart handle.

I decided to order a custom sprocket from electric scooter parts. It will only cost 64 bucks and change but have to see about the shipping. It will work for the 72V - 3,000 watt - 4900 rpm motor. Gearing will be around 43 mph at 60V and 2,500 watts. At 36V it will be geared for 26 mph and will put out 1,500 watts. At 48V it is almost 35 mph and 2,000 watts.

They did not have the 72 tooth in stock and won't have it until February so I did the math and now can also use a 26" wheel so will have my choice of disk or V brakes by not using the 24" wheel. I can order the motor and controller whenever I want as I fixed the 1,000 watt brushed 3,000 rpm MY1020 motor and can run that for 24 mph gearing @750 watts awhile I wait for the 3,000 watt brushless motor.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-60W-Auto-Welding-Electric-Soldering-Iron-Temperature-Gun-Solder-Tool-Kits/224200784682?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3433687b2a:g:vTUAAOSw2dJfjc8q&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkgCVySCgrNFPU8Iu85TabMISPJeU4gStfUL0Ob1Vm28xjzcdZiWsX%252Fw4nQRnGr7myy%252B9yqE2xnObBaddnwxedEKTV8TWnmprfpSyhsfZpBgfKxP3PdXdbzIdiEOZMmUX6C7LuaECIz4v60cSwDZO7kz81fc1f9z6Oc%252BBMAnRC2fnuJe%252B4Rkch7Ci3Xbp3GM80d0PUCLrVI3Fzswvkuf8NIRwYlfDXPajCTegg%252B5BlktZ5ImKBUI1MEqxcr5D86bBRLp2vSVVuZk9pmmf9ZSX22I%252F1pHoI8jxMtEUdzmHYNj8ePJZ7rxMd9KuXPCSGcPXb6Ry0Nbw%252FKhiwxFUBaVxgBPSJb6xO5hENYEi%252F9goOOhoqlyxqqBwyF1J9Y8cd0BRVUtKwn0yahd%252FmnI%252B58hGV8euyXI2ywQhec44TZGyE1Kytf6NdHL9ySrMem6MtOq6dUq3PrFYIiGWY8GJPlQOBOXq2AsG9VLxRYoLM%252FcNhlmBG4DMYwOJLQoYxMz547QbPtaiUuTjB4SFZq5oeCoE5Cbo8fF%252F1oxODn%252Fhk7jqnr6b8PPXPztONIYhoVIy8StpVEqJubDy73p2thdvsKXhT4FcyAH2Uc3wPjKURUpmM1zg%252B3ZEGLviWGBf%252BXxPP2wOE%252F5i8A3tAUyfkROAFSLEAJWQKlPHSY48M6yWG4ysj8KJreEE7UcMzxRGSH%252FKoaiC4pQb6gpz%252BqNBHiIKFIWLUcuNyHtShOdj0vvhTDp0jXMkgrCQ2bu%252BJ7ziADsjwGpuQ%7Ccksum%3A22420078468204350b4adc16453e8788978b2e518d8b%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524



Does that look like it could work ????? I did find the 60 watt iron I ordered awhile ago but did not find the extra tips. Also those extra tips disintegrated. They fell apart. I found two of the useless 30 watt Wall-Mart irons and tried replacing the tip on the 60 watt iron and it was not the same set up. Not interchangeable and ended up breaking the 60 watt iron trying.

I never saw one like that that feeds the solder but if it really works then could help me with my soldering skills. Please let me know as I want to build a really large 48V and 60V pack with 18650 cells.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I never seen a self feed solder, soldering iron before. It'd be useless even if there was a speed dial for solder feed as its easier to just do it normally, and dont have to worry if that thing needs a specific size solder. Too small size solder then your feeding a lot, too big size solder then you could glob to much solder. I buy little $5 rolls from local distributor and found the correct size for my needs.

For the tips for Weller and the like you can use 12 or 10 gauge solid copper wire to make tips, I did for my Weller 2 wattage settings 180?/240?W iron. I usually just hit up Home Depot and grab some house building wire from their selection on the rotating cable assembly. A second purpose is you can use that solid core copper wire for battery pack building, like 18650 packs.

I would guess the trigger only feeds the solder, so it should operate nicely?

Might work on small wiring but not on battery/motor or controller wiring. Tip looks way to pointed for any mass.

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. My first brushless chain drive motor.

I took the 1,800 W brushless motor for a ride about 4 miles yesterday or Thursday and was going to try to put a little slack in the chain as it is very tight but decided not to. I notice when I push the bike forward with the controller off and no power going to the motor there is a little rolling resistance but not really a lot. I know the chain will never fall off or come loose and do not wish to mess with it however I notice when driving the bike that I really do not need brakes to stop the bike and coasting down a hill it wont pick up much speed. If I want to stop at a stop sign I just let off the throttle at 15 mph and the bike stops on it's own in about 30 feet give or take a few feet.

There is plenty of power and at 36V gearing is 26 mph. and 40 volts 29 mph. Power is unknown as current is supposed to be limited however I think it is getting 1,350 watts to 1,500 watts but not quite sure. I am guessing as acceleration is great. When I hit a bump in the road with my thumb on the throttle it is noticeable as the bike just wants to go with just a slight increase in pressure on the throttle. Also it accelerates great going up little hills but have not tested it going up a big hill yet. The bike is noisy. It makes a lot of noise compared to a hub motor.

My question is are brushless chain drive motors different than brushed chain drives in that they will slow the bike down kind of like a Jake break on a big truck. It is probably the fastest bike I ever built but without working brakes and a long stretch of road and a speedo I can't tell for sure. I am just wondering what is causing the bike to slow down to a dead stop on the flat in about 20 or 30 feet depending on how fast I am going.

It is a good thing down hills as I don't have to ride my brake or brakes down normal hills but my only concern is efficiency. It don't really matter as I have hub motors on bikes for long distance and daily commuters. I am just curious in the difference between a brush and brushless chain drive motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.

36V can be little power at say 15A or 36V can be more power at say 50A. I've ridden both, little power sucks, means you need to pedal way more then a setup with 36V 50A. For me with 36V 15A means every little hill is a big hill and I have to pedal. With 36V 50A I dont have to pedal at all, just the 36V limits my speed.

Not sure what your 20-30 ft stop means, depends on your speed, up hill and weight. Direct drive hub motors have drag when no power is applied, that drag feels like you are riding with a flat tire. - 20-30ft could also mean you have very minimal regen braking. - 20-30ft might mean your V-brakes or disc brakes are dragging - wheel is not flush or straight - wheel is grabbing a seat/chain stay - wheel bearings are toast - cassette/freewheel is toast and your feet on pedals giving resistance to stop in 20-30 ft. Who knows man, who knows.

We will all know once I post a video riding it. I found my pocket Cannon camera but did not find the charger. I need a new camera anyway. As far as brakes go I did not get any brakes hooked up on that bike. Since it is 20" I can use my cheap 13 buck Wall-Mart sneakers as need to replace them anyway every 3 to 4 months and am right about there. I do plan on getting brakes hooked up.

Not to get off topic but I drove the van for the first time in about two weeks and got a brand new battery and my 22 Ah SLA will be here by next week for toping off the battery when it gets cold. I am also getting my new tire for the 700c hub motor so the Giant Roam will be finished this month. I also plan on getting the 26" 1,000 watt hub motor fixed and looking at getting a soldering iron and getting the old LiPos charged and trying out the 1,800 watt brushless motor with 48 - 44V LiPos if they are still good. They have been sitting in storage over two years and not hooked up for almost 3 years.

I am not sure when or if I am ordering a 1,500 watt rear hub motor or a 3,000 watt chain drive brushless motor. I might wait until the next round of stimulus money happens if it even does happen. I might get a small car with that money. Not sure yet. COVID 19 has a lot to do with having a second vehicle as what is the sense if we are all supposed to stay home. At least my van has a purpose besides polluting the environment. It is an e bike storage shed as well as a place where I can solder and charge LiPo.

I watched a you tube video that all of you guys have to see. They are claiming about 9 miles off a 1P - 10S Lithium - 18650 pack and show a video with a 240 watt motor. Someone got paid a lot for lying. Imagine buying a spare lithium pack that only has 10 - 18650 cells. For anyone who knows about e bikes it would be like trying to sell a box of used condoms. Lucky if it would even go a mile. That is ridiculous. All my builds are better than that junk they are selling for 320 bucks I think. A lot of cash to spend on junk that would be lucky to get a 100 pound kid up a small hill without failing miserably. :lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-Up6s9kQwY

Yea. Did you see how fast he was going in the video. With 10S - 1P. :lol: :lol: :lol: Imagine that.

Maybe there is still hope for me to build and sell e bikes. If they can sell garbage like that then I could sell any of my e bikes chain drive or otherwise. I was thinking about cheap Wall-Mart bikes that have all the pedal gears and brakes working and brand new and just adding a rear rack similar to the stock Currie rack with the motor , controller and batteries already mounted. Figure 75 to 100 bucks for the bike. 50 bucks for a cheap MY1020 motor and two of those 4.4 Ah hoverboard 10S packs for 8.8 Ah and a cheap 15 buck Chinese controller. If I could make a 100 buck profit that would be great.

I saw a 1,000 watt - 48V MY1020 motor for 50 bucks on Ali express I think. Have to look again and see about shipping. An 80 tooth #25 chain and sprocket are cheap and would be road legal at 36V and 750 watts. With only 8.8 Ah it would go about 20 mph so would be street legal but still go at least 3 times as far as a 10S - 1P pack. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

As The Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

The 700c tire and the 22 Ah battery are at the post office today but the post office is closed until Monday.

I have two days to kill so have decided to work on the 1,000 watt hub motor with the cracked rim. It also has a little insulation on the wire damaged and bare wire is showing. It is a small spot. I am going to pull the cover and attempt to fix that using a small piece of shrink wrap I will pick up tomorrow at Auto Zone.

Tonight I will remove all the spokes from the Hub motor and re lace the hub motor into a different rim. I have already started removing the spokes from the rim I intend to use and will be going down to the van to get the hub motor at some point tonight. Probably when I get back from a grocery and beer run in about an hour or two.

I finally thought of a strategy after watching several videos. I bought a roll of colored electrical tape. red . green , blue , yellow and white. I wont use red as I need that for positive connections on controllers and batteries ect. I will only need white , green and yellow. Very small pieces. when I remove the spokes on the hub motor I will place a small piece of tape on the hub motor and count the spokes and place a piece of the same color on the rim I will be lacing the hub motor two so I do not screw something up. I need to take my time and do it right,

The Haro V3 has been sitting at least 5 years waiting for a motor. It will be getting two motors. A 1,000 watt MY1020 motor that I recently fixed and will re solder if necessary when I get a new soldering iron. As long as it works I won't need to but I took apart brushed motors probably about a dozen times now and only one I could not fix as one of the magnets inside the motor housing was broken. All other times I tied the brushes back with string and gorilla tape and put it back together , tested it and ran it awhile. My failure to properly solder a connection has gave me plenty of practice. :lol:

Tonight will be the first time taking apart a hub motor as I have to fix that wire. I plan on being able to remove BOTH direct drive as well as geared hub motors. It will be one thing I will excel in I am hoping. That is if I get a good soldering iron and can develop my skills. It could be several years before I need to replace the gears in a geared hub motor but already watched several you tube videos doing it.

The Haro V3 will not be a 40 mph bike but should pass that little mini bike that has been going up and down the block in the neighborhood. I was told it is 40 mph capable but I think with two motors , a front hub motor and the MY1020 motor both accelerating at the same time with 50 volts going to each motor I should smoke that little mini bike from 0 to 30 mph , lol After that I will just turn a corner and lose him hopefully.

I could probably already do that with the 1,800 watt brushless motor now however it is a death trap with no brakes. I can drive it easily with no brakes if I take it easy as it slows down when I am not pressing the throttle but full throttle around here with pot holes would be suicide. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

Reread my post, need to specify with my regen statement. With all the controller wires hanging loose, some might be touching with you not knowing and activating a random feature (like the ABS brake)
I've actually had that happen where two wires were touching causing some sort of abnormal fault. I forget what it was, perhaps it was the Learn wires.

I've also had other faults where rain would get into the throttle and cause the throttle to go wide open when it should have been no power, and W.O.T. would be no power. I believe I damaged the actual throttle housing by flipping my bike onto its seat/handlebar to work on it or maybe I got a flat. Either way that was an interesting ride, I was midway into my ride when that happened. I found a bench and tried fixing the problem, tried blowing on the connectors, tried drying the inside contacts but bench side it never got fixed until I got home and just swapped out the bad throttle with a brand new throttle.
-------Thats why its wise to have 2 or 3 brand new throttles as spares.

As for your mention of brakes, well for short periods of time I have ridden with just one v-brake. The front one worked best obviously but I'd go through the brake pads like crazy. I never tried regen yet, but that'll save brake pads. When Justin rode through Calgary he said he gained 8-12% with regen city riding, while riding through the mountains doubled those #'s.

I've ridden once with no brakes, it was not fun, always had to plan ahead. I must've took off a half an inch of shoe sole on that one ride.

With all the controller wires hanging loose, some might be touching with you not knowing and activating a random feature (like the ABS brake)
I've actually had that happen where two wires were touching causing some sort of abnormal fault.

Click to expand...

I doubt that as there are no wires that do not end in plugs and if something touched it would not stay connected when I hit a bump. It could have something to do with either Regan braking which I know almost nothing about or could be the ABS brake by default but doubt very much it is either. It could be the chain is too tight or it is the magnets inside the motor as hub motors slow down a little down hills but not as much as this.

I do not believe there is a mechanical malfunction. I do believe that a picture is not worth 1,000 words in all cases. Maybe in some cases , but a high quality video shot onboard and a second shot in a parking lot with the camera showing me riding the bike and close up shots of what the chain is doing , especially the tension will provide all the evidence required to make a very good analysis of what is going on with this mysterious build.

The 20" bike with an 1,800 watt brushless motor with a 1,500 watt brushless controller which claims to have current limiting under 41V but after riding it down to 37V there is no indication of current limiting. Acceleration is great and it seems to do exactly what it is geared to do. It slows down a lot once I release pressure on the throttle and accelerates very good once I press down. It slowly accelerates down hills when not pressing the throttle. So slow is the acceleration that if it is a gradual decline I might have to give it a little throttle. It is also great up hills.

I will also require a new speedometer for the onboard video. I am very excited to see the results. I know I am on the right track with this build and think at least 34 mph is possible as 1,500 watts can be achieved at 40V. If I can charge and run the 44V LiPo a full charge will be around 48V but since they are really old I will go with 46V after voltage SAG.

I should have probably ordered a 2,500 watt brushless controller instead of the 1,500 watt I ordered but was thinking 60V and 2,250 watts on a 20" kids bike would be suicide. 30 mph is pushing it with a 20" bike and also the fact that any brushless controller capable of over 1,000 watts @ 36V is about as scarce as hens teeth.

The bottom pics show 40V , 46V. and 37V. The limit of the controller is 40V and 1,500 watts. At 48V the motor is 1,800W which is the rating.

Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. On my way to Wall-Mart for a camera and a speedometer. I might be able to shoot a video tomorrow if the sun is out.