New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Does it make significant difference to upgrade the TSDZ2 firmware from 36V250Wstock to 36V500Wstock?

I help out in a local bike shop sometimes and don't want to install the Open Source firmware onto customer bikes, because noone else can service it and I'm not always around.
 
vulcanears said:
Does it make significant difference to upgrade the TSDZ2 firmware from 36V250Wstock to 36V500Wstock?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure anyone had done it as we all went over to 48V batteries on 36 volt engines engines to get better cadence.

Eco-Ebikes talks about it a bit at https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

Worth a go maybe as its only 14 amps but you may run into heat problems ?
 
Waynemarlow said:
vulcanears said:
Does it make significant difference to upgrade the TSDZ2 firmware from 36V250Wstock to 36V500Wstock?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure anyone had done it as we all went over to 48V batteries on 36 volt engines engines to get better cadence.

Eco-Ebikes talks about it a bit at https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

Worth a go maybe as its only 14 amps but you may run into heat problems ?
Click to expand...

I've just received my 48V bare motor and put it into my 36V system. I do not have 48V battery yet. But at least could try it out how is it when "underdrive". It is not as "quick accelerating" like before. The RPM of the motor is much lower. And as overall I cannot go as fast as with 36V motor. But on the other hand it is like a calm but powerful joy to ride it so. However its "ampere consumption" seems to be bit more which seems to be obvious as voltage is lower what was designed for.
I've used it with my patched factory default firmware which has difference only in showing voltage, ampere etc. but generally works as default firmware.
I've also tried to compare the two motors: 48V = 803 gram (1.770lb) and 36V = 807 gram. (1.779lb) :) This latter can be some remained grease. :)
Then I tried to compare the resistance between the phases but did not find either difference. However maybe I was wrong with doing so. Actually I do not know what I should measure to get a difference between the two motors.
 
Alfie said:
Hi Fellas

My motor makes an unpleasant noise in the first 2 power settings in lower gears!!!!!!

I have a a new TSDZ2 48v 500w motor in stock form at the moment with VLCD6 display. When I start a ride in a low gear ( half way up my 10 speed cassette ) the motor sounds dreadful until I up the power and put more pressure on the pedals. It sounds like something is intermittently rubbing and making a right old racket. I first thought it was something rubbing or catching on the bike but when I pedal without the motor on the noise doesn't happen. When I put it in a higher power mode and use a reasonable amount of pressure on the pedal the motor sounds fine, just the normal constant electric motor sound.

I must say the first 2 power settings don't seem to produce much in the way of assistance if anything noticeable.

I have the magnet set 8mm away from the speed sensor and turn on the unit and don't touch the pedals until it is booted up.

I have a 860c display on it's way so I can install the modded firmware but don't really want to install it with this problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...


is your chain line good?
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
Alfie said:
Hi Fellas

My motor makes an unpleasant noise in the first 2 power settings in lower gears!!!!!!

I have a a new TSDZ2 48v 500w motor in stock form at the moment with VLCD6 display. When I start a ride in a low gear ( half way up my 10 speed cassette ) the motor sounds dreadful until I up the power and put more pressure on the pedals. It sounds like something is intermittently rubbing and making a right old racket. I first thought it was something rubbing or catching on the bike but when I pedal without the motor on the noise doesn't happen. When I put it in a higher power mode and use a reasonable amount of pressure on the pedal the motor sounds fine, just the normal constant electric motor sound.

I must say the first 2 power settings don't seem to produce much in the way of assistance if anything noticeable.

I have the magnet set 8mm away from the speed sensor and turn on the unit and don't touch the pedals until it is booted up.

I have a 860c display on it's way so I can install the modded firmware but don't really want to install it with this problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...


is your chain line good?
Click to expand...

The chain line is good. I have just installed the Future Bikes 42t ring today and it still makes a racket. The bike sounds ok when I turn the motor off. It’s just Noisy when I aren’t putting a lot of pressure through the crank.
 
well, I only ever get a soft whine out of mine, directly proportional to how much power its outputting. the one I built my brother has the bronze gear in it, and is noisier, but its still a whine proportional to power output and cadence
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
well, I only ever get a soft whine out of mine, directly proportional to how much power its outputting. the one I built my brother has the bronze gear in it, and is noisier, but its still a whine proportional to power output and cadence
Click to expand...

It’s not really a constant whine. It’s more intermittent. Kind of on off or rubbing. I’ll see if I can record it tomorrow if it isn’t raining again :roll:
 
For the ones dreaming with a fully wireless TSDZ2, wireless remote and wireless brake sensors:

Here is the last version of the Android app, I do not plan to change anything more up to soon release this very first public version. Download here, just for see it working on your phone: https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2-Android/releases/tag/v0.1.0

See that there is only one main screen but I added (this feature is not available on the ESP32 project) customization on the fields, a bit like on the 860C display:

[youtube]QU4JChGzGE4[/youtube]

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-07-at-20-43-45.jpg


Whats-App-Image-2020-12-07-at-20-48-58.jpg


Whats-App-Image-2020-12-07-at-20-43-45-1.jpg


Whats-App-Image-2020-12-07-at-20-43-45-2.jpg
 
Hi, my tsdz2 motor with 750km does this creaking sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YkTqahKT-o

Recently i opened the motor, and tried to find what would be wrong with it. Everything seemed fine but I found this "scratch" in the aluminium behind the big main gear : https://imgur.com/a/uRT01ii

I wonder why would the big gear hit that thing? I also have little bit play in the axle, like in this video :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iOWg5nUjfo

Would that maybe allow the gear to move little bit under heavy load and hit the aluminium casing?

Have anyone fixed this ?
 
When your TSDZ2 stops all of a sudden and won't work anymore what's the best way to identify whether it's the controller or the motor?
 
volcamin said:
Hi, my tsdz2 motor with 750km does this creaking sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YkTqahKT-o

Recently i opened the motor, and tried to find what would be wrong with it. Everything seemed fine but I found this "scratch" in the aluminium behind the big main gear : https://imgur.com/a/uRT01ii

I wonder why would the big gear hit that thing? I also have little bit play in the axle, like in this video :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iOWg5nUjfo

Would that maybe allow the gear to move little bit under heavy load and hit the aluminium casing?

Have anyone fixed this ?
Click to expand...

yeah, i'd say pretty good odds of that crank wobble causing the internal gear to scrape. I've not done any repair work on mine yet, so I don't know what sort of bearing is on the ND size you show in your vid.
 
This are the new developments on the TSDZ2 wireless, thanks to the big collaboration of other developers like @rananna.

As seen on the video, I change the TSDZ2 assist level on the wireless remote and the value is seen both on the mobile app and on the GPS display Garmin Edge - there is a delay showing the value although no clicks / changing levels steps are missing!
I do not show on the video but I can also change the assist level both on the mobile app or on the GPS display Garmin Edge.

[youtube]KHbebZZT29E[/youtube]

So, the small TSDZ2 wireless board is the only needed part to install on the EBike - the wireless remote, mobile app and wireless GPS display are optional, they are not needed at all! (the user will also be able to change the assist level on the wireless board on a switch button).

The EBike wireless remote can be bought on the market since there is a standard for it, although I built my own DIY using the VLCD5 wired remote and the small wireless board, and a coin cell - will include a connection to the brake sensors, make them also wireless.:
image.png
 
Some news about the TSDZ2 wireless board:

I assembled a TSDZ2 wireless board and took pictures for future documentation. As you can see, the board is very small, easy to DIY and cheap (about 25€).

I put the wireless board under the DC-DC converter board. I used a perfboard to hold one board in one side and other on the other side and giving enough space to solder the only 2 extra components (mosfets).

DC-DC converter boar (60V battery -> 5V for the wireless board):
TSDZ2-wireless-board-01.jpg


Wireless board with all the needed wires soldered:
TSDZ2-wireless-board-04.jpg


The board is quite small, here the final cable to connect to TSDZ2 display connector:
TSDZ2-wireless-board-05.jpg


Finally I soldered the wires for STLinkV2 and connected to my PC, so I could flash the Bluetooth bootloader and finally the firmware using the bootloader:
TSDZ2-wireless-board-flashing-bootloader.jpg


And finally testing by connecting the mobile app as also the Garmin GPS display:
[youtube]AklWXqSHkPU[/youtube]
 
Hello,

I've had lots of issues with my inner motor after disassembling it and applying thermal paste inside but eventually I made it work...for like 50km. I went for a longer ride and the motor was working fine while suddenly the power dropped and I've got E04 error on VLCD5 and I wasn't even going any steep hill or anything. Later I noticed that the motor works for about half a minute after turning the system on and then throws the error and disables. I've disassembled it and found a green wire connector burned a little bit.

Do you have any ideas what could be wrong? Why did it burn? Why only green wire was affected? I already replaced the inner motor with the new one and everything is working fine again (so far I have about 100km on it). But I'm a little bit afraid the the core problem is somewhere else and it may burn my new inner motor again.

P.S. I've done internal relay modifaction for powering lights out of the battery but I'm not sure if that may have caused the issue. When motor burned and was throwing error the lights continued to work fine.

Z7Ut3XV.jpg
 
Andrew707 said:
Do you have any ideas what could be wrong? Why did it burn? Why only green wire was affected? I already replaced the inner motor with the new one and everything is working fine again (so far I have about 100km on it). But I'm a little bit afraid the the core problem is somewhere else and it may burn my new inner motor again.
Click to expand...

The screws holding those wire connections together strip very easily - if the connection is poor, the resistance is higher and it may heat up and burn as a result. Make sure the connection is good and clean, and there's no remaining corrosion or something. I soldered mine.

Your old inner motor may still be good with just the screw / connection being bad?

The manual says e04 is related to throttle, so maybe check the wiring for that too.
 
When starting up the TSDZ2, configuration has you specify that the Right or Left pedal be 'down'. My question is:

What is the result (or symptoms) if you do not put the specified pedal down at startup?

I have calibrated the torque sensor and specified Right pedal down. But I cannot detect any difference in operation when starting with the Left pedal down. Curious to know what I might look for in this regard.

Thanks
 
ADC values between right and left were very close. I ride a recumbent trike, so pedal pressure (weight) is fairly low. No standing on the pedals.
 
fireflyer451 said:
ADC values between right and left were very close. I ride a recumbent trike, so pedal pressure (weight) is fairly low. No standing on the pedals.
Click to expand...

in which case, the left-right start is less important.
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
fireflyer451 said:
ADC values between right and left were very close. I ride a recumbent trike, so pedal pressure (weight) is fairly low. No standing on the pedals.
Click to expand...

in which case, the left-right start is less important.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is correct. There are torque sensors were the measured values for left and right side are very different, hence I implemented the firmware to differentiate both sides when making the calculation of the force applied on the pedals.
 
casainho said:
LeftCoastNurd said:
fireflyer451 said:
ADC values between right and left were very close. I ride a recumbent trike, so pedal pressure (weight) is fairly low. No standing on the pedals.
Click to expand...

in which case, the left-right start is less important.
Click to expand...
Yes, that is correct. There are torque sensors were the measured values for left and right side are very different, hence I implemented the firmware to differentiate both sides when making the calculation of the force applied on the pedals.
Click to expand...


I don’t know if you have a thread/post already working on a custom firmware for the bafang ultra ? You’d be the right man for that! Thanks for all your work on the tsdz.
 
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