Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

thoroughbred said:
According to these figures I found for the sur ron battery, my state of charge should be 50% rather than 30%. I guess I'll keep draining it and see what voltage I have at the end of 2.8kwh, maybe my cells behave differently than the surron panasonics
20201211_132358.jpg

From where do you have these figures because they are not really accurate?
And which cells do you have? But should not make much difference if you look at this chart: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=272959

If you do the math for 16s Panasonic PF, the SOC at 57,4V is around 30% so Nucular shows correct :wink:
At 50% SOC most LiIon Cells have 3,7-3,75V which would be around 59-60V for 16s.
 
The gauge may take into account the LVC voltage you have chosen. The Whs are really fair and correspond to reality from the moment you have properly charged your battery to dv.
 
madin88 said:
thoroughbred said:
According to these figures I found for the sur ron battery, my state of charge should be 50% rather than 30%. I guess I'll keep draining it and see what voltage I have at the end of 2.8kwh, maybe my cells behave differently than the surron panasonics
20201211_132358.jpg

From where do you have these figures because they are not really accurate?
And which cells do you have? But should not make much difference if you look at this chart: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=272959

If you do the math for 16s Panasonic PF, the SOC at 57,4V is around 30% so Nucular shows correct :wink:
At 50% SOC most LiIon Cells have 3,7-3,75V which would be around 59-60V for 16s.
I was looking at this post for the voltage figures
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/surron/99484-adding-a-voltage-meter-to-your-sur-ron

I have 16s of 50Ah nmc prismatics so I guess I can't really extrapolate data from other cells :lowbatt:
 
Creating a table showing the correspondence between voltage and accurate SoC%

is a painstaking task

varies widely from one chemistry to the next even within the LI subset nominally 3.6-3.7V

and is only valid to do **at rest** isolated at least an hour.

If done while load or charge is still recent, different current rates cause wild variations.

Coulomb counting down from 100% can be much more accurate, but even devices costing hundreds

that take into account Peukert coefficient, declining SoH%, charge efficiency

are rarely closer than within 8-10%

TL:DR at best you get a ballpark estimate, do not think it is accurate

To my mind the "100%" range should be between your normal charge-stop point and where you want LVC to stop

but really your intuition, best gained by calibrated experience, using an absolute Ah/mAh countdown rather than the % idea

compensating expectations downward for higher power rides, heavier load, headwinds, steeper hills etc yourself
 
Hi there

I'm trying to connect a Vectrix Vx2 dual function PWM throttle (acc + ebrake) on the nucular, through the PWM RC control function.

Before plugging anything I could see, when the original sevcon was still onboard, that I have the following voltages :

red +5v
black ground
yellow 0v
grey ext 11v
grey int 0v

(there's a switch in the grey circuit in the throttle)

Which wire goes where in the nucular ?!

Thanks in advance if you can help !
 
Too cautious !!!

After multiple researches and absolutely no way to find an official diagram, I finally plugged the 5v and the ground and decided that the yellow cable had to be the pwm. The result is that it works, and that I lost way too much time scratching my head.

The 12 v grey cables are just a cutoff on the ICM, I shunted them.

This Vectrix throttle with regen function is the only interesting feature on the scooter, happy to keep it for this build... and the next ones.
 
I finally got around to setting this controller up. I am using the controller side inputs.

I have an analog throttle for brake and another analog throttle for the acceleration. I know both throttles work because they work fine on my other controller.

It looks like the setup detects the brake throttle, but it cannot detect the acceleration throttle. Am I missing something? When it says "Press" I fully engage the acceleration throttle and continue holding it. Nothing happens.

I have tried it with both throttles attached and then with just the throttle for acceleration connected. Same issue both times.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Seen similar when the throttle is outside the voltage limits. Try widening the voltage range for throttle input and see how you go.

It looks like the throttle is making a connection because for the "# throttle" value I am getting 0.708V and it goes to 0 when I disconnect the throttle. However, that number does not change when I turn the throttle.

I tested on a multimeter that my throttle, when wide open, goes to 4.4V. I opened the max voltage setting on the controller by 100mV at a time, and tested all the way up to 5V and still nothing.

Should the "# throttle" value increase in real time according to the throttle level?

Any other suggestions?
 
transposon said:
Cowardlyduck said:
Seen similar when the throttle is outside the voltage limits. Try widening the voltage range for throttle input and see how you go.

It looks like the throttle is making a connection because for the "# throttle" value I am getting 0.708V and it goes to 0 when I disconnect the throttle. However, that number does not change when I turn the throttle.

I tested on a multimeter that my throttle, when wide open, goes to 4.4V. I opened the max voltage setting on the controller by 100mV at a time, and tested all the way up to 5V and still nothing.

Should the "# throttle" value increase in real time according to the throttle level?

Any other suggestions?
Make sure the throttle input voltage actually allows throttle voltages that low. I think the default normally starts at around 1V so it might be causing a fault with it being so low. I also recall max throttle voltage is less that 4.4V, so that could also be causing a problem for you.

Cheers
 
On Debug mode you can look at the throttle voltage on live.
 
VasiliSk said:
You can connect only brake light using pwm scheme from wiki.nucular.tech with mosfet or using isolated driver.
Everything else is done with uLight controller , will be released later

Hello VasiliSk
How much is this uLight controller? How does it connect to the nucular controller. Is it water proof?
Has it a mounting bracket.
Can you also supply the cables for front rear and brake lights. It says pre-order on the web site, but no price is mentioned. Also which cables do I need?
How quickly can I get one.
 
Preorder is free
 
Hello everyone!

A quick question: Is it possible to use Nucular(-12F) controller without the onboard controller connected, after setting everything up? And of course using the controller side inputs.

I'm converting and old eastern german scooter to electric with a custom built instrument cluster, and the plan is to read out values through the LEVCAN protocol, and there is no place for the onboard controller in my concept of the vehicle :)

Considering using a 3kW QS138 motor with the 12F controller, for max 80 km/h (the reduction ratio can be adjusted in a wide range in my case)
 
Hi,

I just updated my nucular display and controller, it went ok, some parameters had to be set up manually like the FOC mode for the motor and the wheel circumference but other than that I am pretty happy.

One question:

My bike is currently configured with ebrakes and I wanted to know if it's possible to disable one ebrake (the rear one) using the software? It is for controlling my wheelies.
 
PITMIX said:
A guy in France made a very simple system with a disc that has holes and an optical sensor. A second adjustable disc makes it possible to obstruct more or less the oval holes with fine tuning. The advantage is simplicity and no disturbances due to magnetic fields.
This made it possible to transform a car alternator into an engine with a rotor position sensor, just as hall sensors would.
Sa vidéo est ici :
https://youtu.be/WkbbDcLWDdQ

Hello PITMIX
(and sorry for all of the other people in this thread, probably i'm hijacking it)

I saw some of your posts about alternators, and this newest one with a optical sensor, but i wonder why to use optical and not hall sensors. Austiwawa on youtube finally got to install hall sensors on his alternator to test and it went great, with some troubleshooting hours but it went great on the end result.https://youtube.com/watch?v=rQy-hIMY__A

Another YT user, Enrengineering, also got to install hall sensors on his alternator and the end result was promising.https://youtube.com/watch?v=UeJPAhFpp-g

Common alternators already were tested a bunch of times and can output a good amount of power for small and light builds, but its unfortunate that i can't find someone able to test a Gen1 GM BAS alternator (instead of a 12-14V 60-130A standard alternator, its 36V nominal and cheap in junkyards, but they don't talk about torque figures like the Gen2).
This is the link about the Gen1: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=31584
And this is the link for the Gen2: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=85514
 
Bought a Nucular 12f and plan to use it with a QS205 5T shooting for 10kw, is this going to be to much for this controller?
 
Blacksword said:
Bought a Nucular 12f and plan to use it with a QS205 5T shooting for 10kw, is this going to be to much for this controller?
The 12F could be a bit weak for this motor and overheat if it doesn't get enough fresh air.
Wheelsize and battery voltage also matters if you might be happy with it or not.
 
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