New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[LeftCoastNurd post_id=1609099 time=1609833905 user_id=68326]
PXL_20201027_002010319-1607586312516-X3.jpg


Beautiful!! thanks for sharing.

That bicycle should be light!! If you are going to install a smaller battery, you may try to get a custom one made for you. And I would lower as much as possible the battery on the frame.
 
it was pretty close to 25 lbs without luggage before I electrified it. it originally had 700x32 tires, I upgrade dto 700x40 to go with the heavier kit.

it was a 3x8 speed, now its a 8 speed. it had a 48-38-28 front with a 13-28 8 speed rear, now it has a 42 front with an 11-32 8 speed rear and hte same alivio derailleur. new bars, new brake levers and shifter.

PXL_20201010_002652543-L.jpg


I think its about 45 lbs with that big 730WH battery. with the rides I've done to date, I've barely dented that. I need to get back in the saddle and get back into the groove.

I think this bike will support 50-60 mile rides and still have home-hill climb power.

I still need to finalize the wiring, its still in setup and test. I wanna replace the battery power chinese bullet connectors with a PP30, and generally shorten up all the wiring and wrap it in loom and re-tiewrap that to the frame.
 
Anyone know the color of the wires in the speed sensor for the light?

I want to splice it out inside the motor, such that I can pull the light wires out to a different place on the frame and avoid the unsightly yellow splitter block.
 
quote=LeftCoastNurd post_id=1609107 time=1609841155 user_id=68326
PXL_20201027_002010319-1607586312516-X3.jpg


PXL_20201010_002652543-L.jpg


PXL_20201027_002301432-1607586311894-X3.jpg


I am really proud to see our many hours work and idealization, on a so beautiful build / bicycle. I also love the colors of the leaves and the trees <3
 
feketehegyi said:
fyi, if you are interested in a concept of rail e-bike with TSDZ2. The tracks in the video are not connected to the main railway. They are on a closed private property so it was safe to experiment it.
[youtube]-RtE6aY_cVQ[/youtube]
Click to expand...
That is crazy :) why the interest of such idea? I must say that locally we have a very slow old train in parallel to a road, connecting 2 cities where I live for 25 kms and I did grew up travelling on that train as also driving car on the road as also riding that 25 kms with my first EBikes... I always though that would be great to use the train tracks for a fast way ride that 25 kms...

Also we have some places on the mountains that are now bike paths but were on old times a train track...
 
Hi - hoping i've not missed this info but I've searched this thread and checked the wiki...

Anyone found a source for the thin ring seal that sits in the groove of the CSK30 bearing under the spider? I broke mine today and whilst i've temporarily fixed it with a dab of superglue I'd like to find a source for replacement. CSK30's with the groove don't appear to be supplied with the ring seal from what I can see.

I measured the broken seal - OD is c.59mm - length is 182-183mm (hard to measure exactly because it stretches) cross section profile is a triangle (or trapezoid more accurately) - approx 1.5mm base and 2mm sides to a flattened point.

If anyone has more precise measurements - feel free to correct me - I don't own a micrometer unfortunately.

I can find o rings of the right size - but can't find any with the triangle cross section.

I have ordered some nitrile o-rings to try - 1.5mm section, 59mmOD - but would be nice to find the right part.

I've emailed a few manufacturers but betting that someone here has found a source already?
 
beemac said:
Anyone found a source for the thin ring seal that sits in the groove of the CSK30 bearing under the spider? I broke mine today and whilst i've temporarily fixed it with a dab of superglue I'd like to find a source for replacement. CSK30's with the groove don't appear to be supplied with the ring seal from what I can see.
Click to expand...

Do you really need an O Ring. I've been fitting non grooved CSK30's and simply putting a very light ring of silicone gasket seal around the outer part of the bearing where it meets the spider.

I rebuilt one some time back that had had water damage and simply put a heavy layer of waterproof grease in there. I took the spider off the other day and it was still intact and no water ingress after a year of some pretty heavy UK mud and puddles.
 
Waynemarlow said:
beemac said:
Anyone found a source for the thin ring seal that sits in the groove of the CSK30 bearing under the spider? I broke mine today and whilst i've temporarily fixed it with a dab of superglue I'd like to find a source for replacement. CSK30's with the groove don't appear to be supplied with the ring seal from what I can see.
Click to expand...

Do you really need an O Ring. I've been fitting non grooved CSK30's and simply putting a very light ring of silicone gasket seal around the outer part of the bearing where it meets the spider.

I rebuilt one some time back that had had water damage and simply put a heavy layer of waterproof grease in there. I took the spider off the other day and it was still intact and no water ingress after a year of some pretty heavy UK mud and puddles.
Click to expand...

Hi -thanks very much. I did consider whether I could replace it with a ring of silicone or similar so good to know there are alternative solutions that have worked - especially in UK weather!
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
mctubster said:
Make sure your battery cutoff voltage is set correctly.
Also are you talking seconds or minutes?
Click to expand...

i believe it is set properly for the 52V battery (Samsung 35E 14S 4P), anyways, I had like an 80% charge when this was happening.

last leg coming home today, I noticed that sometimes 'motor power' would flatline at 180W or some other kind of random value, yet I could intentionally modulate my "human power" all over the place, from less than 100W to around 220 or 240W. then suddenly, I'd be getting the right pookah for the power assist level I'd set (I customized the power assist levels to just 10 rather than 20 and have it set so 4 is a good happy medium, 5 or 6 is extra boost up a hill when I'm tired, and 2 or 3 is good for the flats when I don't want to push my speed too hard. 3 gives me motor power about 2X human power, 4 is more like 3X, and 5 is more like 4X, all powers in watts, and no, I've not calibrated the torque sensor, just using the defaults there the way it came from eco-ebike, who programmed it for me.

as far as how long it misbehaves, its kinda random. sometimes its 3 or 4 or 5 full turns of the cranks, sometimes a fair bit more (10-15 full turns at maybe 60 or 75 cadence). carrying a 1L Hydraflask, and a 9 lb Kryptonite chain my pannier today, climbing the 8% grade I live up was a beating when the boost cut out. I'm not sure I can see how it could be an external wiring issue, as the display never reset, the speed and cadence and human power were always reading correctly.
Click to expand...

Did you figure out what was the cause of this problem? I'm currently having very similar behaviour with my motor.
 
Hello,

I'm doing my second TSDZ2 build and once again I have a problem securing the motor to the frame.
My bike has internally routed cables which come out at the bottom next to the bottom bracket. There's additional piece of aluminum welded at the bottom of down tube where the opening for cables is. The motor barely fit in (but it did fit!). Now I have to secure it with two bolts and aluminum wedge at the back. The problem is that because of down tube opening I can't move motor to the left at all therefore the aluminum wedge doesn't fit in. What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx
 
Andrew707 said:
Hello,

I'm doing my second TSDZ2 build and once again I have a problem securing the motor to the frame.
My bike has internally routed cables which come out at the bottom next to the bottom bracket. There's additional piece of aluminum welded at the bottom of down tube where the opening for cables is. The motor barely fit in (but it did fit!). Now I have to secure it with two bolts and aluminum wedge at the back. The problem is that because of down tube opening I can't move motor to the left at all therefore the aluminum wedge doesn't fit in. What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx
Click to expand...
You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-TSDZ2-on-a-full-suspension-bicycle
 
Andrew707 said:
What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx
Click to expand...

In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.
 
casainho said:
You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-TSDZ2-on-a-full-suspension-bicycle
Click to expand...
Wow this is really creative! :eek:

ilu said:
In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.
Click to expand...
Thanks for an advice! I've bought some corner support and washers. Will try to make this work. Will post picture once done! :)
 
Hey guy`s,

i`ve a question about the TSDZ.
first of all, im now on 800km with my drive and i`m very pleased with it.
I use it mostly for commute to work and trails in the woods/fields, no real problems so far :D
I made the following changes:

-OSF
-replaced the seals on the axis with sealed ballbearings to reduce transverse load on the sprague-clutch.
-applied thermal pads arround the motor
-applied new lube on all gears and seals.

But here`s the problem:
Some thing i noticed is, that the battery-throttle onsets very early.
@50% Battery i just get 50% of my max. power output, is this normal ?
i thought that lithium-batteries usually keep their power output constant until arroud ~ 30%, a linear power reduction seems a little unrealistic. I have an LG-battery pack, so i assume that the cells sould be quite ok.

I think it might be one of the following points:
-there is an option in the OSF which i didn`t set up correctly
-the BMS of the battery
-contact resistance from the battery to the motor

has anyone made similar experience and might be able to help ?
 
Heisenberg60 said:
Hey guy`s,

i`ve a question about the TSDZ.
first of all, im now on 800km with my drive and i`m very pleased with it.
I use it mostly for commute to work and trails in the woods/fields, no real problems so far :D
I made the following changes:

-OSF
-replaced the seals on the axis with sealed ballbearings to reduce transverse load on the sprague-clutch.
-applied thermal pads arround the motor
-applied new lube on all gears and seals.

But here`s the problem:
Some thing i noticed is, that the battery-throttle onsets very early.
@50% Battery i just get 50% of my max. power output, is this normal ?
i thought that lithium-batteries usually keep their power output constant until arroud ~ 30%, a linear power reduction seems a little unrealistic. I have an LG-battery pack, so i assume that the cells sould be quite ok.

I think it might be one of the following points:
-there is an option in the OSF which i didn`t set up correctly
-the BMS of the battery
-contact resistance from the battery to the motor

has anyone made similar experience and might be able to help ?
Click to expand...
After you install our OpenSource firmware v1.1.0, enable the Field Weakening feature you will feel a big boost on the bicycle wheel!!
 
Wapous said:
For many of us, the time has come for a good cleaning and refurbishment of our TSDZ2. This often involves the replacement of different bearings.
Hope this might help you.
Click to expand...

I've replaced all the bearings with proper german ones except for the blue gear for I could not get them out without damaging the blue gear...is there any way to get them out without using a press? Thanks for any advice 🙂
 
casainho said:
After you install our OpenSource firmware v1.1.0, enable the Field Weakening feature you will feel a big boost on the bicycle wheel!!
Click to expand...
Ah nice i didn`t know the 1.1 Version is out now. :thumb:
I will flash it later and see if it helps.

Anyway i have field weakening active at the moment (V1.0-light fix), but i still have the early power reduction.
might there be other facotrs ? as i mentioned 50% power reduction (750Wmax -> 350Wmax) @ 50% battery seems a little unrealistic.
 
Heisenberg60 said:
Anyway i have field weakening active at the moment (V1.0-light fix), but i still have the early power reduction.
might there be other facotrs ? as i mentioned 50% power reduction (750Wmax -> 350Wmax) @ 50% battery seems a little unrealistic.
Click to expand...
First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?
 
casainho said:
First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?
Click to expand...
yes it was the max PWM-value for both readings.

but never mind i just updated on the new 1.1 version and realized that the low-voltage-cutoff is set to 42V by default.
I think that i didn`t change the value after the last update, so most proably the low-voltage-cutoff was the culprit for the missing power. Now I`ve set it to 40V and get arround 600W at max PWM and ~50% charge, i will keep an eye on it during next few battery-cycles.

thank you anyway, it`s realy nice to see that the community is still active and so helpful :D :thumb:
 
Heisenberg60 said:
casainho said:
First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?
Click to expand...
yes it was the max PWM-value for both readings.

but never mind i just updated on the new 1.1 version and realized that the low-voltage-cutoff is set to 42V by default.
I think that i didn`t change the value after the last update, so most proably the low-voltage-cutoff was the culprit for the missing power. Now I`ve set it to 40V and get arround 600W at max PWM and ~50% charge, i will keep an eye on it during next few battery-cycles.

thank you anyway, it`s realy nice to see that the community is still active and so helpful :D :thumb:
Click to expand...
It is really nice when the problems can be solved! :)
 
Andrew707 said:
casainho said:
You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-TSDZ2-on-a-full-suspension-bicycle
Click to expand...
Wow this is really creative! :eek:

ilu said:
In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.
Click to expand...
Thanks for an advice! I've bought some corner support and washers. Will try to make this work. Will post picture once done! :)
Click to expand...
Corner brace worked pretty well!
[img=https://i.imgur.com/0PEgQMtl.jpg][/img]
 
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