new eZip motor

Why not build a single useful eBike rather than piss money way on mediocre builds? I'm amazed by the amount of money spent on bad builds.

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I do not agree.

You can buy yourself a 100,000 dollar car and when it does break down pay for a taxi. Or buy several cars some for speed , some for cargo and some for dirt roads and hop in what you need. It is similar to what I am doing. My Giant Roam is a 2016 model and in brand new condition with dual 500W e bikeling motors but is only good for smooth flat roads. My 20" BMX with an 1,800W brushless motor will run much better on a bike trail or dirt roads, My new dual motor build is good anywhere and can add a detachable cargo basket when needed.

My Currie will have a super quiet Bafang on the front and a 30 mph capable rear motor if I put 53V to it and can also do back roads and cargo so is basically a back up for my current dual motor build. My 20" Turbo with the 800W DD hub motor on the rear is an all around 22 mph city or country bike and very reliable.

Also.

Two motors each of which can run the bike > 25 mph and < 30 mph on their own @ 36V and between 35 and 40 mph at higher voltage can work together which will enable them to share the load going up hills and maintaining a high cruising speed of approx. 28 mph for a long period of time.

An old 10S - 10P pack to the rear and a new 10S - 8P pack to the front for now and two controllers and separate wiring to share the heat is just as good as a single 2 kilowatt motor and even better as if one motor , controller or battery pack fails I can still make it home with the other system.

I am still considering a 3 kilowatt motor for my Haro V3 and a MAC or BMC for my 700c hybrid and not completely given up on a Cro - motor (HUBZILLA) for my 27.5" Silver Dimond Back. , , , but for now this dual motor build will be my main e bike for the summer and on long dark bike trails will be running a 1,700 lumen front light with it's own 12V pack.

If it works the way it should I may not build another e bike for a long time and start saving for an electric car conversion instead.

A quarter mile high is 400 meters, but what is the length?

Go to https://ebikes.ca/tools/trip-simulator.html and click on input and use Google maps.

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I looked at that link and is way more complicated than what I am capable of. DA would be able to plug in the variables better than I. I just know about total power of both motors or P2 and top speed possible according to the rpms of the motors. Top speed depends on gearing and total power.

Thanks.

LC. out.

A used electric car or a new electric car?
I'd only buy one used or new if I was rich.
Each their own.
I'd personally look at a VW diesel passat or jetta because they have an amazingly high fuel mileage, plus you can get parts anywhere for a good price. PLUS you have no mileage anxiety with electric vehicles, you can literally say to self, self lets drive 3000 miles and get going within 10 minutes and you literally dont have to plan nothing, electric isnt like that at all.

If it works the way it should I may not build another e bike for a long time and start saving for an electric car conversion instead.

Click to expand...

you can literally say to self, self lets drive 3000 miles and get going within 10 minutes and you literally dont have to plan nothing, electric isnt like that at all.

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Yea.

I do not really like driving much at all. I do not even like driving 10 miles let alone 3,000. However if I were to go cross country or out of state I would defiantly need to stop and take breaks anyway so do not mind charging my batteries for a couple of hours.

An all electric vehicle or a used hybrid could work. It just has to be really cheap. If I were rich I would just buy two 8 or 10 kilowatt hub motors for cars and look for an old volts wagon bug. I bet they weigh less than 2,000 pounds. That would work for me.

I have spent a lot of money on e bikes and they are fun but building any more at this point could be considered a waste of money considering the fact that my van has way over 200,000 miles on it. A small hybrid would be a good investment. I was just wondering if a hybrid can be upgraded and can it run at 45 mph on just electric. If so then I would only need to use gas on the interstate highways where the minimum speed is 55 mph.

What I am saying is if a hybrid can't do 45 mph without using gas then I do not want it. I can hardly wait until hub motors for cars are mass produced for conversions and batteries to run them become affordable. Until then I will be looking for a small vehicle to convert. My FX - 75 - 5 motor is a 45 killowatt motor and controller. I would need an EV conversion expert however to build anything with it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

There are hub motors for cars available today
QS273 10kw x 4 = 40kw *Be interesting to see the controller to power all 4, and the battery.
http://www.qs-motor.com/product-catagory/car-hub-motor/

But your better off with one motor hooked up to a transmission
https://www.evwest.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=8&osCsid=7vusjg4c0n9mpobjrcu0bstlu7

To much work, to much fabrication, to much money, to much time for my liking.

If your going to buy, buy used import Toyota. And hope to god the winter cold months doesnt affect it to much. Cali to Florida dont have to worry.

those motors are not in the same class as my FX - 75-5 prototype. My motor is 45 kilowatts. 4 of those 10 KW motors wont equal mine.

I need to hook it up like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiO1HeeWETo

their method was correct. but it needs my motor to work.

About 5,000 bucks of Lithium titanite technology to be fully functional. A short range quick charge for 50 miles and whatever 12V acid junk disposable batteries that can be salvaged for extra range until battery technology is improved.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Hub Motor Turns.

Why not build a single useful eBike rather than piss money way on mediocre builds? I'm amazed by the amount of money spent on bad builds.

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I just mounted the front controller and secured the wires. This bike is a BEAST. I tested both front and rear motors with my new 10S pack. Both wheels are spinning and it is an official BEAST !!!!!

It will do everything I said it could. 36 mph will happen when I overvolt each motor by approx. 12V and hill climbing capability will be incredible.

It is equal to a $2,000 + e bike if it was bought and perhaps much more with batteries..

Mediocre. ??????? I beg your pardon !!!!!

I am a professional e bike builder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soKHcldUIlc&feature=youtu.be

Thanks.

LC. out.

Those QS273 are capable of well more than 10kw out the factory floor. (There are also different models with different rating too.) I bought thr 8kw model and had intended to limit it at 16kw constant and 24kw 5 second short burst. I've heard of others getting over 30kw out of them reliably with just statorade.

You won't get a hybrid that can do more that 45mph without gas for cheap. Sure they exist. I own one. But I paid 40k AUD for it ex-demo and they are still worth about 30k 6 years old. Mine has been a very solid and economical work horse. 22,000km per year, costs me about $600 in electricity and $300 in gas? Same car in petrol would have cost me close to $3000 in gas alone. Service and maintenance has been virtually free. New tyres and oil change, sure, but haven't had to change brake pads and rotors (regen saves on that), no clutch change (no clutch!), only one transfer case oil change, only one air filter and plug change, and that was a time based thing. They came out like new.

If you want to tinker, think about getting a first or second gen Prius. With a dead battery, the cars are barely above scrap value. There's then a fairly big community of people who hack these to turn them into plugin hybrids, trick the ECU to give you more electric speed and power etc.

Still a money sink, but one you'll be well supported in.

"I do not agree."

Fella, you piss away money that could be used to build a decent bike, not the hack job hack shown here.
I'm not being critical except to remark you piss many dollars away on half-assed builds.

I'm not being critical except to remark you piss many dollars away on half-assed builds.

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I suppose that is a piece of shit also

2016 - Giant Roam - BRAND new condition with dual 500W e bikeling GEARED hub motors. dual 40 amp DC breakers and wired for either my 10S - 10P old pack or the 10S - 8P new pack.

The currie got a new paint job and am ordering new stickers and putting a Bafang motor that just got the rim trued. I painted the 750W gear reduction motor and will be installing dual 40 amp DC breakers and a brand new brake in the rear. The front is disk.

The 20" mongoose in the van has a BRAND NEW < 20 miles on it : 1,800W brushless motor and > 25 mph probably 30 mph and with a 1,500W controller great up hills. 80 amp DC breaker and currently running 10S but 12 to 13 capable with current controller. With a 60V 2,500W controller 43 mph capable.

The 20: turbo with an 800W hub motor on the back. OK. That might be old and low budget and only has a single brake and does around 20 mph on the flat but is very reliable and efficient and fun as hell to ride. It has a 40 amp DC breaker and will run 12S or 48V for the full 800W motor output. Currently running 10S and > 500W.

As far as the bike I just got done working on.



The front motor is brand new as well as the chain and sprocket. The chain is tight and will not come loose.

The rear motor has been apart and all the motor and sensor wires have been soldered and taped and the rim is brand new as well as the spokes.

You do not like the way I mounted the front motor ? Well that is fine as I own the bike and I like the mad max look.

I am mounting some sort of factory basket to those wood brackets on the front which will hold a camera , cell phone mount for a GPS and a 1,700 lumen headlight plus a speedometer so you wont even see those wood brackets from the front. Just the side view.

I just got off the phone with the local bike shop as they trued the wheel with the Bafang motor and they will be hooking up a brand new disk brake caliper on the back of the bike you do not like and I hooked up a brand new V brake or U brake on the front. The bike shop will be hooking up brand new brake lines and levers so lets get this straight.

the rear motor is like brand new and the front motor and controller and throttle is brand spanking new and the bike is getting brand new brakes.

The bike is 30 mph capable with the front 1,000W motor alone and currently with an old 10S - 10P battery on the rear and a new 10S - 8P pack for the front total power is 1,750W to climb up hills. > 35 mph with 56V to the rear and 48V to the front.

But in your opinion the bike is a piece of shit.

I really do not know what to say.

I guess we are all entitled to our opinion.

I do not know what e bike you are running but would love to challenge you to a race up a steep hill against a bike you own. You would be limited to 10S or 36V and 18P. < 2 kilowatt's. That is the way my bike is currently without further upgrades.

Future builds are pending.

1, A vintage HARO V3 - 26" mountain bike - getting a 3 killowatt chain drive brushless motor , 100 amp DC breaker, disk on front and 43 mph gearing. 8mm chain.

2. 2017 Giant Cypress hybrid 700c - Getting MAC or BMC motor capable of 60V and 40 mph. 80 amp DC breaker. All 21 pedal gears fully functional.

3. A silver 27.5" Dimond Back mountain bike. - Pending --- HUBZILLA. The cro- motor by Greyborg electric. As soon as they are in stock I will be ordering it for 60 mph.

Thanks.

LC. out.

LC, do you realize that you can only ride ONE bike at a time? I have that same problem 5 bikes but only one rider, ME!

I agree with "tomjasz " on some of his thoughts. You are pissing away much of your money on the wrong things. You talk about a Cromo, by now you could of had one if available. You talk 40mph+, You really don't wanna go there. I gave it up when I realize that it was stupid and very dangerous! Even with a good bike with a custom made rear 4130 chromoly swing arm. Even 30mph is scary. debris on the roads come up really fast and with little time and space to miss it. Even worse at night. Most riding has been at 15 to 20mph.

And, I don't like the long chain drive system you have been so happy with. Luckily you only ride them a short time before you try something else with them.
I guess we are worried about you crashing more like I did. Think about it, drive your van at 40 and see how much debris on the road you see but don't have time to adjust to miss it. Just think about it!

Dan

LC, do you realize that you can only ride ONE bike at a time? I have that same problem 5 bikes but only one rider, ME!

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Too cold to ride anyway.

Big cold front going thru the country. Lots of snow on the way. I guess I will be walking where I need to go for awhile. Defiantly no rush for any new builds.

When I was at the Home Depot a few days ago to get the brackets and hardware to finish mounting the front motor my van leaked about a quart of fluid on the ground. Fortunately it made it home without over heating. Mike looked at it and said the heater core is shot. He put some anti freeze in it and have a thing of stop leak.

I am not fixing it. It could set me back 500 bucks if I take it to a garage and way too cold to work on it myself. Mike won't be working on it either. It is less than 25 bucks a month to keep insurance on it as I pay by mile so can use it for storing bikes.

What is even worse is I do not even know if the new build or the Currie will even fit in the van. I have not even tried. All I know is it could be a month or longer before I ride an e bike again and probably much longer before I drive a vehicle. I still need to pick up that Bafang motor at the bike shop. Not sure how I will do that. I do have triple A towing insurance. Since it is so cold I might try to get the van to the bike shop. Hopefully it won't over heat. I need brakes put on the new build if it will fit in the van.

I really need an electric van. That is what I need. I have the FX - 75-5 motor. I wish I could make it work for the van. 45 kilowatts should get me 40 mph ???? It looks like they got about 20 mph with whatever that motor was. It is belt driven and so is the FX - 75-5 motor. I will need 40 mph to go on back roads. Some type of battery set up for about 50 miles range and an easy way to charge ??????

Did anyone watch the video I posted. I am thinking the FX 75-5 motor could work for the van if I did it like they did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiO1HeeWETo

They have regular gears.

How fast could the FX - 75-5 motor go with that set up ???????

I will need some help doing it.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I have never heard of paying for insurance by the mile, did you have to hook up a gps computer supplied by the insurance company to the vehicle, otherwise its just to easy to mess with the odometer cable of an 80's vehicle.

Heater core isnt that bad a job, you have a 80's van right, so easy to fix those. Remember, Youtube is your friend.
This is of a truck, but its pretty much all the same, the D100 is a 2wd truck, same thing as the vans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSsG6j7s87U

You should really think about knowing how to fix simple easy things like a heater core before thinking about making your own electric van. Then to step it up a notch, convert your gas van to propane. Then buy someone elses mess with their VW van conversion.

Your video is quite crude and archiac, lead acid batteries with battery terminals of hose clamps
Here is a little flava flav, we'll see if you keep your dinner down or not. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E_GTYhXWhY

I have never heard of paying for insurance by the mile, did you have to hook up a gps computer supplied by the insurance company to the vehicle, otherwise its just to easy to mess with the odometer cable of an 80's vehicle.

Heater core isnt that bad a job, you have a 80's van right, so easy to fix those. Remember, Youtube is your friend.
This is of a truck, but its pretty much all the same, the D100 is a 2wd truck, same thing as the vans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSsG6j7s87U

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It is a 2005 Chrysler town and country. way over 200,000 miles though. Way too cold outside to work on it. I could watch videos on it though. I will save a ton of money doing the work myself.

Liberty Mutual sent me a device which plugs into a port under the dash. It needs to stay plugged in. I have bought a new battery for the van a couple months ago. However I need to bring those 22 Ah SLAs that are in the van and charge them up and hook up my trickle charger this week end. I need to top off the van battery a couple times a week when it gets this cold out side. That way my new battery will last for many years.

I want a small electric vehicle. The van is great for storing e bikes and a perfect vehicle if I ever need to move but need a really small EV for driving around. I could even put a bike rack on it to take e bikes to the bike shop for brakes and pedal gears.

I just wish I had a friend to work on stuff with. Someone who enjoys working on EVs. All my friends back in NY could not put a beer down long enough to accomplish anything. Here all I have is Mike and John , Mary's two sons and they do not like working on anything unless they absolutely have to. To them it is work and not fun.

I do not drink until late at night but do sleep until 4 Pm or later a lot of days but could roll out of bed around noon if I had a friend interested in projects. Noon until about 6 PM 3 or 4 days a week an EV conversion could get finished in about three weeks to a month.

A project needs to be fun and stress free. Not a job with a dead line. Also I have learned by taking my time with e bike projects the end result is a better build. Less chance of a short or failure. Everything is carefully planned.

I guess I can still spend a lot of time in the e bike workshop building 18650 packs. I have my tester for internal resistance but am not sure how I should hook it up for 1S so I can test every cell ???????? Here are pictures.



I have a ton of 6S balance plugs but want to test each individual cell separate and then bulk charge 10 cells at a time in parallel.

After that I was thinking about waiting about 72 hours for self discharge , retesting internal resistance and then combining cells that are really close into 1S - 10P - packs. Then soldering a 6S plug to 60 cells in parallel series. Then repeating that for a second pack. I can use bullets to series connect them. I just have to design the packs so the plugs would be too short to possibly screw up and short them out. Just long enough for the series connection for 12S.

Then I can add 1S - 10P in series for 13S , 14S ect. Whatever I want to run. I think the new build would run great with the front motor getting 11S and the rear motor 13S. It should do about 33 mph. It is 28 mph now with 10S going to both motors. The Currie gear reduction motor is rated at 36V and 750W. I remember doing a video with a speedometer hooked up to 12S LiPo and it hit 28 mph. That is perfect for that motor.

The 1,800W brushless motor out in the van could easily do 16S but would need a 60V - 2,500W brushless controller. I am NOT doing it though as I rode the bike and went about 25 mph. Maybe a little more. The front end did not seem that stable. I need to check the wheel bearings and steering out. Basically I have to agree with all of you guys that 40 mph is way too fast for a 20" bike. I might try it some day with my Haro - V3 or my 27.5" Dimond Back mountain bike but not a 20" bike.

Thanks.

LC. out.

All this time I thought you had a full sized van, minivans in general tend to not last long at all. From the looks of a quick yt search, that heater core job is as easy as it gets.

[quoteAll this time I thought you had a full sized van, minivans in general tend to not last long at all. From the looks of a quick yt search, that heater core job is as easy as it gets.][/quote]

Well That may very well be true but right now it is the coldest time of the year so I can't picture myself working on it for hours.

I am that mechanically inclined and my tools are mediocre and with my luck the wrench I need will be the only one I do not have. I just can't see putting myself thru all that especially in 20 degree weather. As far as I am concerned the van is a lost cause until we get a 40 degree day and I happen to roll out of bed before dark.

Right now I am looking at the 5 in 1 battery tester. It can't read 1S and looks like it is 4S to 7S. It says Lion is 2S to 7S but when pressing the button all cell types are 4 to 7S so I will need to arrange all cells into 6S - 1P in order to test capacity , voltage and internal resistance hopefully.

I do not intend in keeping them in 6S-1P. Just to do testing and arrange cells that are almost identical into 1S - 10P and then will use a 6S balance cable for 60 cells in parallel series. Two of those will give me 12S and can add 1S - 10P packs in series for higher voltages when desired.

It is a ton of work though. Probably take forever. On my way to get Q tips. I used a drywall screw to scratch the surface on 18 cells. I plan on using rubbing alcohol to damped the Q tip for cleaning the surface and letting the cells thoroughly dry before soldering.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Have you purchased any solder flux or paste? I needed that to solder the A123's. Thats about all you need it for as solder itself has flux in it.
Buy some 99% isopropyl alcohol, 91% works good, 95% works good. I prefer not to pay for water.

Horse hair brushes work good to, but I doubt you can buy those at your local drug store :lol:
Lint free paper towel, an option, auto parts store blue towel.
Paper towel
Q-tip
What do you call those makeup removal pads or fuzzy things well yeah cotton (?ball?) same thing they use after a iv needle.

BTW I see mid 20's all over Pennsylvania then gets even warmer by Wednesday. Pretty warm in my books, but everyones different.

Have you purchased any solder flux or paste? I needed that to solder the A123's. Thats about all you need it for as solder itself has flux in it.

Click to expand...

I have a little flux and 1 tube of solder left. This is going to take a long time. I will be ordering this 20 Ah pack for my current dual motor build to power the 48V hub motor and also for the 36V - 750W gear reduction motor for 28 to 30 mph.

That 750W motor did 28 mph with 44V - 12S - LiPo so should hit 30 mph with 13S or close enough.

I am still building my own packs for 13 - 15S. At 15S the 1,000W hub motor will do 35 mph and at 11S the 36V - 1,000W on the front will also be geared for 35 mph. That is the upgrade later this summer but with the 13S to the rear hub motor and 10S to the front chain drive it defiantly is a solid 30 mph e bike.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBike-Lithium-Li-ion-Battery-48V-20AH-for-1000W-Motor-Scooter-Electric-Bicycle/293901471583?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item446de48f5f:guYAAOSwq~xfszAZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkvjzWOStkxwnlDuxSI1PVVoLTQFUPpGT8fQflOEWLlC29hp2vmmSY8LxxbscUHCjeMNlt5pqLuJZadxrZ0%252FyFZkygY1oNYWv3LMbsUVTItkIy2zkDEoahGMibKN%252BtJw%252BIMHn07FwGJSN0j5yE5PBgConMLW83JXYrgmrKptMgJ0jH4Ym8gJ3FeJf9SI93TXFzuR3buDner40OJE9QeE00LvV4AlMfJp2hcl1W41H0l2xck%252BiMqoeRa4Yb7Uqkqawohzr7npEfrWYLkAO1tfsR4RdWCeUd2c39GsUjs00vcWS2p5NXlu0OpSU9%252FCyluchpZLxhoD5tpAW15sQc9%252FSRcH6xe%252F9l2hTTNilj%252FpvSX7QB9H6bhdChXVkxOGtCBc1xc6UyliuQ7l%252BQbCqLUAOcxtx2U28tlBWz4BCOoBDZtFcokuTeYRDRSs9vIjlXKw8aabvy6W1USpkk5Zq9gxJJB7YdVXn4f4wUhLw5NK10SLe2XOt6aEZrVMSRYYhPMpZG9%252B8vU7P8TSusYbr8WIFdmUNYNX7CvezVnkssxvhDq5gEflJ1f9kllQplgZmQZM4Miuj8cRT5EgYJnGTUxzFPg6FAg%252Br%252FC24ZpDn5fxDFdq381yqQXJ%252FxQp%252B337O6Lak0wIPOnRWxEV%252FAwbVi4QqNtLaiFvF8585%252FLe%252BksH3eBrkc8jx%252BE3kSNTUP2cKFZz5lSX9eCnyd%252FbUPQQo7EVIeMfIxfCxMvf99cF0OCHZovj1Fbz5rkUFSJ4vs8dBCb8vErlB7ee56Vbr%252FZ72WVB%252Fs8Q%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A2939014715836ba36ffdbbd34d2f892cdc2ecc01bf75%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524



All new builds will be cancelled for at least a year. I need to work on my van and perhaps acquire a used hybrid. That is my #1 priority now. I am still finishing the current builds and do maintenance and upgrades. I will need to order the display module for the Bafang motor but no rush as the two cables I ordered won't be here until February or March.

The 9 pin motor cable has the wires on the other end to allow me to mount it to a cheap brushless hub motor controller and I have one Dan sent so basically all I am looking at to finish my current projects is the display module and will need the other Bafang motors rim trued.

Other than that it is brakes , cargo baskets and lights. Maybe a couple rear view mirrors but no new motors for new builds until after I get a hybrid or a really small , reliable economical car.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Not sure about the 5 in 1 meter. It is reading very high and don't matter if I press LiPo or Lion. I get crazy readings like over 5V on some cells and way over 4.5V on others. I think I got a defective unit.

All those cells I selected to build that were over 4V and a couple were between 3.8V and 4V.

The multi meter gave normal readings and is accurate as I tested the new 10S pack after about 5 miles and was over 38V. If anything the meter may be reading slightly low as the new packs should be closer to 40V.

Also the Sky charger is very accurate on cell voltages and am balance charging at 6S - 1 amp.

Here is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j77Z_7fPICY&feature=youtu.be

Basically I see no sense in taking the pack apart if it is a functional 6S - 1P pack. I have at least 20 balance cables so can do 20 - 6S - 1P packs and then parallel up 10 and then another 10 for 12S - 10P. It will take some time but that is ok. I should have the extra cells to do 15S - 10P. That is 60V. 4 * 15 = 60. Around 62V fully charged but with an average of voltages and used cells probably closer to 60V and with a little SAG somewhere between 58 and 59V. Plenty of power to get both the Currie and the 26" dual suspension well over 30 mph.

Since I have 5 e bikes though and 8 motors and controllers 5 out of 8 motors are 48V or more capable I would be foolish NOT to order that 13S pack for 200 bucks. Building more packs will just give me plenty of extra range. And there is also the fact I can not find the extra solder tips that came with the iron I ordered. That really sucks as I know from experience that tip is limited. I might get one more 6S - 1P pack done if I am lucky and then if I do not find the tips I am back to waiting around for more tips.

Thanks.

LC. out.

1/24/21 - 8:54 PM.

Yea. I am having no luck finding those solder tips. The tip on there is good for maybe 1 more 6S - 1P pack. Also has been too cold to get to the store to load my card to order more. Not even sure if it would be the right tips for my iron. Probably have to order a whole new iron with tips.

There is no doubt I will need to order that 13S - 7P new pack. Even when I do make 20 - 6S packs to run 12S - 10P they are old 18650 cells. They may not have the capacity that a brand new 13S - 7P pack has. The only advantage on building my own is I am working with around 200 cells total and for less than 100 bucks can get at least 200 more.

It is not difficult building them if I take my time and build three or four 6S packs a week. Then build three or four 1S - 10P packs so I can run up to 16S. But for reliability and maximum range I need the new 13S - 7P pack with the BMS.



10:30 PM.

Still no solder tips. I spent most of my day looking. I need to make it to put about 250 bucks on my card tomorrow if possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Makeronics-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B083QVQ92P/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mustool%C2%AE+MT223+60W+Adjustable+Temperature+Electric+Solder+Iron+w%2F5+Extra+Tips&qid=1611545330&sr=8-1

That will work.



Amazon is much better. I know I waited at least three weeks for the iron from e bay.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Have you given any more thoughts about one of those 12v spot welders? Probably about the same price as a new iron. You have the battery packs capable of running them. Even if you didn't want to spot weld packs together, you can spot weld nickel tabs onto each cell, then solder the tabs. It will be a lot faster and do less damage to the cell.

With regards to the Tenergy 5 in 1, if it's in 4-7 mode, it's expecting a Nickel based battery. That could explain both the inability to go down to 2s, as well as the unusual readings. It's expecting a 1.2v reference, and you're giving it a 4.2v reference. Just speculating, but weirder things have happened.

Have you given any more thoughts about one of those 12v spot welders? Probably about the same price as a new iron. You have the battery packs capable of running them. Even if you didn't want to spot weld packs together, you can spot weld nickel tabs onto each cell, then solder the tabs. It will be a lot faster and do less damage to the cell.

With regards to the Tenergy 5 in 1, if it's in 4-7 mode, it's expecting a Nickel based battery. That could explain both the inability to go down to 2s, as well as the unusual readings. It's expecting a 1.2v reference, and you're giving it a 4.2v reference. Just speculating, but weirder things have happened.

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I will you tube video the spot welder. I might consider it then.

The 5 in 1 meter does read all cells on the 6S - 1P pack that I built and got sensible readings. I did not figure out internal resistance though. I might need to watch a you tube video on that also.

I picked up the Bafang motor at the bike shop tonight, It was less than 20 bucks. I was thinking about a small car but am having a lot of difficulty driving the van. I have been feeling a lot of anxiety and panic attacks. I feel dizzy sometimes and my heart races. I feel like I have to pull over. Thought is was sugar but don't know. I ate today before I drove. Night driving is the worse. I have to roll my windows down even when it is freezing. It just feels really weird to drive a vehicle. I do not feel like that with an e bike unless I have to cross a busy intersection.

I could get a 2001 Nissan with 112K miles but am not sure if I can drive a small car either. I just hope the new dual motor build will fit in the van as there is no way in HELL I will be hauling that tank up and down three flights of stairs. It is not happening. I will try it sometime when someone is here to help me.

Mike and John stop over a lot but I really do not know a single person who is like me. Nobody I know likes to Work on bikes except for one person in NY but I could never drive there. I also could never afford to move back there as it costs 800 for an apartment and heat and lights are 300 to 400 in the winter. I doubt I will ever travel farther than Wall-Mart or the bike shop about 6 miles. I can barley drive that far with my anxiety and panic feelings now. It really sucks. I will be walking a lot more when the weather warms up.

I still do not drink or smoke weed at all during the day so I know it is not that. I do not know why I get light headed and panic attacks while driving. I have not tried music as I like staying alert but when I was younger I cranked up music a lot. I doubt it will help. Not sure if a small compact car in the daylight could help or not.

Thanks.

LC. out.

You need to go see a doctor, medical issues are serious.

Gosh your driving anxiety kind of reminds me of watching this series on tv years yore.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Canada+Worst+Driver

You need to go see a doctor, medical issues are serious.

Gosh your driving anxiety kind of reminds me of watching this series on tv years yore.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... rst+Driver

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NO.

Too many people with COVID. Trying not to catch it.

Hospitals are filled with COVID patients. Folk like me and my wife have to stay home and suffer as if we go to a doctor are at high risk of getting sick and dying with COVID.

I am a hopeless alcoholic and have type 2 diabetes. heart issues that will never be addressed and my poor wife sits here every day suffering from COPD.

It is all because China has an agenda to conquer the planet because their country is grossly over populated. Their goal is for at least half if not more of the population of humans on earth perish so they can spread out and be the ruling race on the planet. If a countries government falls China is ready to move in and conquer that country. three guesses as to which country is first on their list.

What is worse is nobody seems to believe the obvious or people just do not care. They would rather worry about what Trump is doing and still is wasting time harassing the man and he is not even president any more. The USA is simply just too stupid to live.

I just wish I had a different country to go to. I look at America as a failed experiment. It is imploding from within. People are divided and they hate each other here. Divide and conquer is a military strategy that goes back thousands of years. Just like bio weapons. They used to cast dead bodies over castle walls to make the enemy sick. Now days they modify viruses in a bio lab and spread it around the world to make people sick.

Death and suffering will continue until the Chinese agenda is met. Until then all we can hope and pray for is nuclear Armageddon. Those who will die quick will be the lucky ones. The human stain on the earth needs to just go away. Maybe then the planet will be able to recover.

Evolutionary game theory is not complicated at all. Just the super computers that run the simulations are complicated. In fact the principals are so simple a child could understand it. Fitness points are scored by increasing population. propagation and survival by any means necessary. There is no set rules. In the early cave men days some would hide out all day in a cave and at night tell the other tribe members they went hunting or gathering and found nothing and they got fed and fitness points were scored. However if too many members of a tribe did it the tribe would fail. land and resources must be abundant for a tribe to flourish ; Both of which China lacks. thousands will starve and die from lack of food , clean water and polluted air. They are desperate to acquire more land and natural resources to multiply. In fact they have nothing to lose and everything to gain by creating more viruses or weaponizing them in a bio lab. they can't win a nuclear war so lying about a virus is their perfect weapon to win the game at the expense of millions perhaps billions of people.

I do not condemn all Chinese people. Only the persons in the Chinese communist government responsible for this atrocity. I am sure most Chinese citizens of non Chinese countries have no part in this game China is playing and most of the common people who live in China are desperate and at the mercy of their evil dictatorship government. They would be much better off if the country were run by the US or the UK for that matter. Even under Russian rule they would probably be better off than they are now. At least in Russia you can breath the air as it is not nearly as toxic.

I am sharing this in a desperate attempt to spread the word. People need to open their eyes and stop living in denial. I am taking a break from e bikes as have spent enough money on it. I picked the Bafang motor up at the bike shop and am waiting awhile before ordering the controllers for the Bafang motors. I am in no hurry to haul a heavy 26'' mountain bike down three flights of stairs and hope it will fit in the van as if it wont I will have to haul it back up the stairs. I have two 20" bikes in the van that are fully functional.

It also gives me time for the fine details. If I were to rush the build I may have forgot to drill the holes and find bolts which will fit to replace the other half of the torque arms as I could not find a way to make them flush to the axle with the nut used to attach both parts of a torque arm together. It is now perfect but need to apply silicone to the holes that have bolts missing in the hub motor front and back covers.

Notice the three brake levers. One on the right side for the front and two on the left for the back. I am hoping to run both a disk and a caliper brake in the back. With two large battery packs and a reinforced cargo rack on the back this bike will weigh way over 100 pounds especially with extra cargo. Going down hills with that much weight and being > 30 mph capable three brake systems is not over kill.

I still need to work on a small front basket to mount my speedometer and 1,700 lumen front headlight. I want enough space between the camera and speedometer so that a good view of the road will be in the videos I will be doing once I start riding this beast. This build is going to be way more than mediocre like one member here stated.

In fact any ideas to make this build 100% water proof will be appreciated. There is a lot of rainy days here in Ohio all year round. I know they have a spray that is used to make stuff water proof. I do not know how well it works though. Has anyone had any luck using it. Not sure if the chain drive can be water proof. I may need to fabricate something over the front motor. If a spray can work for the wires that would be a great help.

I am not sure it will be my main transport though. That all depends IF or how much effort it will take just getting that heavy thing in and out of the van. It is more like a dirt bike in weight with that chain drive on the front. It is a small tank.

The Currie may be my better option for a main bike as once the Bafang is working on the front it wont be as heavy as the 26" dual suspension as the hub is lighter than the chain drive. But most important is I can put lower handle bars on the Currie. That is impossible with the dual suspension without uninstalling the front motor.

With a 53V battery pack that gear reduction motor will easily do 29 mph. I know that as I did a video with 12S - 44 - 48V LiPos and it hit 28 mph. It also would be more efficient as only have to run the back motor if I want to go over 20 mph or up a hill. I could ride 90% of the time with the efficient Bafang motor.


Thanks.

LC. out.

Dual cable pull brake levers is what they are called.
https://www.bikeberry.com/sunlite-alloy-dual-brake-lever.html

Then there is this
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/12_-_8816o

Yea. It looks like a good idea for some folk. However from past experience with that bike running disk brakes I had way too much adjustments to do. I had a bike shop in Boardman Ohio adjust the brakes when I moved to Ohio in 2019 and a week later needed re adjusting. Caliper brakes may not have the stopping power of disk but are much lower maintenance so would like to keep the disk in the back as kind of an emergency brake deal and only use it occasionally or when I really need it. Going down a really long steep hill.

I still need to order that 13S battery pack and another soldering kit. I have been feeling really lazy lately. I have not felt like doing much of anything. COVID depression maybe. Too many beers before I go to sleep. I just lack ambition. I am a really lazzzzzzzy alcoholic. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Yea. I decided to get up before it got dark as I feel more depressed when I don't at least see some daylight thru the window. However what I am seeing is also most depressing. It is snowing outside which means it will probably be awhile before I am riding an e bike. I still have not run the Giant Roam. I built that months ago.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Caliper brakes may not have the stopping power of disk but are much lower maintenance

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Don't tell Chalo that!

However from past experience with that bike running disk brakes I had way too much adjustments to do.

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Well, you should consider a direct drive hub motor with regen for braking. You wont have to pay much at all for brake pads, or adjust anything other then power of braking regen for some controllers. Probably get away with a set of pads every year or two if done right. I hear some people never use bicycle brakes at all except for emergency braking, and always use regen braking.