E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

Latest blog.
Bike was perfect after all this and was shown to French motocycle Federation today in order to promote racing series with the bike. The MC club ordered two after the test :bigthumb:


[youtube]B9Gxs9uNiCI[/youtube]
 

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bzhwindtalker said:
Latest blog.
Bike was perfect after all this and was shown to French motocycle Federation today in order to promote racing series with the bike. The MC club ordered two after the test :bigthumb:


[youtube]B9Gxs9uNiCI[/youtube]
Hi Adam
How about some details about that new belt drive.
Looks to me as if you have a much larger tension wheel.
I am not sure but it looks like you don't have a belt guide ring on the back, but not sure.
How many teeth does the rear pulley wheel have?
What else has changed?
Do all the parts fit to the old design.
Have you still got the older parts for sale?
I think my rear pulley is 115teeth.
 
croydon said:
to night did some test ride with the new belt ugrade kit, fun to ride in the snow .


What‘s in the box under the frame?
What‘s your top speed with the new belt drive. Wheel off the ground and then on the road.
 
croydon said:
NUCULAR BOMB 12F. :lol: :lol:

Hmm, how much difference does it make? I believe I have the 6f.
Does it not fit under the motor?

So what would say were the advantages of the 12F. Are you getting more torque, more acceleration, more top end, more efficiency.
Just interested in what can and has been done. I do like the colour. What‘s the name of that powder that you mixed with the clear paint?
 
*join the party*

first impression of the Bike is quite good. :D
Pedal assist works nice.
Throttle.....well. Not sure whats going on in the middle of 30s kph.
but it switches also the sound (maybe switch to sensorless mode) and above that speed almost a 2 seconds "delay" when you open the throttle quick.
like a huge ramp.

everything below ~30 the throttle works way better. worlds more Responsive.

I hope some 64 guys here have more experience about the throttle with Silixcon controller?!

The speed limit at 45kph is oscillating a bit and could be smoother.
Setting wise software allows only to setup power, torque and speed settings.
no throttle calibration, battery settings, wheel settings.
controller isnt setup with LVC. If Battery gets empty you will hard cut from the BMS.
No Power reduction as it could be.

The Display allows only to setup 28/27.5/27/26/24 inch wheels. I had to setup to 26inch to be close to real speed.
But it would be nice if i could setup the real speed to have also real range.

Yesterday i put the bike on a scale......well....that was a bit more than expected. 32.3Kg *oumph*
i noticed that already on pulling the bike out of the box. I wonder if the "Legal L1e stuff" have fully 5Kg additional weight.

crazy....time to strip that baby :D

Display shows mostly 2.5-2.6kw of Power and that felt pretty nice.
No real offroad ride yet but feels promising to beat the Bosch/Shimano feelings :mrgreen:

the BELT is fantastic. Coming from the 161 chain massacre this bike is so silent and a whole new experience that ppl doesnt turn around before the even see me :lol:
 

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You probably have a 40mm electric motor, not a 30mm electric motor, schwalbe tires are heavier than maxxis, frame size is L. Drive belt kit is also heavier than chain drive. So instead of 29 kg there is 32 kg. Two days ago I got my frame kit with silixcon controller. I don't know how the throttle works yet, but I have a programming cable. When I build a battery and read the silixcon manual (over 60 pages!) I will try to set the LVC and adjust the throttle. Are your brakes connected to the controller? You know how?
 
Yes, I mean cut off.

I wonder how many Wh batteries to build. Do you know what the energy consumption is at 25km / h on a smooth bike road (only throttle electric motor works)? My old Qulbix with Mxus 3k used ~ 300W ± 25W.
 
Merlin said:
35E are the weakest you can buy. the voltage drop is so high on 8A that you hit LVC at 50% of your battery capacity.

if you compare the size, calculate the space you can fill with 18650 and then with 21700.

the energy density may be not the killer deal. but the space given for the battery will do the trick.

best example is the LMX 161H battery.
there are 18650 inside. but the battery space is 15cm wide.

18650 are to small for the case dimensions AND 21700 are too big. that frocking 1mm does the trick and you can use 20700 Sanyos and fit 180 cells inside. Unfortunately it looks like they are EOL production you cant find 20700 anymore(4.25Ah)

18s10p -> 2.75Kwh
18s9p -> 2.9kwh BUT the cover will not fit anymore. so you have to go 18s8p -> 2.6kwh

Hi Guys. Can someone or Merlin say something to my battery project for lmx161. I mean that i dont have bike yet but i am preparing battery before getting box. I am planning to fit in 16S9P these 21700 cells. I am gonna use hot glue and following base Is there something what i should know before putting glue? So i gonna make 2 sets like this and bend after 8 serial. Do you think it can fit in?
 

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Merlin said:
Simply yes
144 x 21700 fits.
But maybe only a small bms with bypass discharge.

Thanks for your reply.
I ve been building battery packs without bms earlier, only lead wires to check voltage level in different cell groups. Longer use i havent found any balance differences or problems.
Do you recommend bms and if what is main reason for that? Please give some advice
 
No.
Your right.
Bms not needed. For my self I never install them.
And if I install (Bluetooth) I bypass them or disable balancing. Just to check cell groups voltage.

If you build your own cover with 3d print you can squeeze in 18s9p
 
So I did some mods for my LMX64.
First up was a new front light since my previous one died. I had a spare 4" 3LED light bar so I designed a 3D printed mount which places it nicely out in front of the Nucular display.
DSC_6545 (Small).JPG
DSC_6550 (Small).JPG
DSC_6551 (Small).JPG
DSC_6547.JPG
DSC_6549.JPG
If you would like to make your own, feel free to download it here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4741974
The light used is just one of these cheap ones:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4inch-9...r-Lamp-Suv-Boat-Offroad-Trucky3/402612411410?
Not super bright, but good enough. :)

In order to make the light work I had to add a DC-DC converter to get ~12V from my battery. Since I now have 12V to play with, the other mod was to put some fans on my motor/controller. These were just some spare 3D printer fans I had lying around so they aren't super high flow, but seem to move a decent amount of air and aren't too noisy.
DSC_6538.JPG
DSC_6540.JPG
DSC_6539.JPG
I used some rubber before zip tying them in multiple way's/places to hold them in place.

The fans sit super snug up against the motor once reinstalled. There isn't any issues when the rear suspension moves as the angle doesn't change much and the fans can slip slightly.
The lower fan moves air in under the motor and over the controller also so helps cool both. :D
DSC_6541.JPG
DSC_6543.JPG

I haven't done any significant testing with it yet, but for the <6W both fans draw they can only help. :D

Cheers
 
Looks like they do :)
"system supply 12V, and 5V"
the system cable connector seems to have a 12V out
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KkEgWcJ5U-AEkk6GrXhDNlYXFCcsjpUQ/view

They also have an upcoming Light controller circuit called ulight
https://nucular.tech/
 
scrambler said:
Looks like they do :)
"system supply 12V, and 5V"
the system cable connector seems to have a 12V out
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KkEgWcJ5U-AEkk6GrXhDNlYXFCcsjpUQ/view

They also have an upcoming Light controller circuit called ulight
https://nucular.tech/
Oh well...I guess I could have done that, but I kind of like my DC-DC a bit more since it has a pot and I have actually set it to 13.5V. This helps compensate for the voltage drop over the long run down to the fans and makes the LED a bit brighter. :)

Cheers
 
Hi Guys. Lmx64 testing in snowy and cold conditions.B0B3426F-2A9D-4821-86B6-0B68E71C81E3.jpeg. New tension pulley and stronger belt seems to last longer than first belt and small tension pulley( 40km and broke). I think tension pulley is huge improvement for belt lasting. In snowy conditions,
if snow goes between tension pulley it create problems quickly. Ice is pushing belt to the side and also tensioner woppling alot up and down. So belt not so good for extreme offroad, like Adam advice me in the beginning.
This powder snow conditions and good path/trail not creating problems at moment.
Still i have freewheel slip problem when temp -10C. Also my friend has same problem. Brand new skf oneway bearing little helps reduce slip problem comparing used bearing in muddy condition. But the fact is that temp is below limit what skf gives for operating temp, and if using bike when cold new bearing also slips. Adam promised to fix this issue and he is working with it, but he seems to be busy and propably focusing more urgent things. Support from Adam been always super good.
About belts, i ordered 3pcs polychain belts, those are strongest belts what we been using in industry. Lets see how those will last, once get them into testing. They cut these belts from 36mm belt so witdht is 12mm. Btw, did you have variation in width of belt when you received these HP ones? Mine was variating in one belt 10-12mm and one from 9-11mm, which came from Lmx.
Anyway bike is now working and super silent comparing chain. I try to use this belt always when its possible. But sometimes it must be change to chain, if conditions are difficult. I have two rear wheel so its not so big thing to change from belt to chain.
 
hey yes indeed i had the same 9,5mm a 11,5mm and 12mm strang belt width.

i also have slipping problem
i test today with 15T pully and not yet slipped gonna wait for colder thempratuur.

adam wil solve the problem from clutch slipping with a new bearing i think but now the bike is perfect for me.

also with new tensioner pully adam make big improvement th belt kit is a piece of art.
 
Mihei777 said:
About belts, i ordered 3pcs polychain belts, those are strongest belts what we been using in industry. Lets see how those will last, once get them into testing.

I think you wont be able to use Polychain as it has different tooth profile and if you would use it with 15T pulley it will crack in no time (>22T is recommended)
 
Belt Drive installation

Hi Guys

My belt kit arrived today. I am not the most mechanically minded person in the world.
I did build my bike on my own but I can not figure how to get the belt kit installed

The suspension swing arm bolt sticks out and blocks free passage of the belt.

Is a new lower profile swing arm bolt needed.?

Cheers
Simon
 
Simonten said:
Belt Drive installation

Hi Guys

My belt kit arrived today. I am not the most mechanically minded person in the world.
I did build my bike on my own but I can not figure how to get the belt kit installed

The suspension swing arm bolt sticks out and blocks free passage of the belt.

Is a new lower profile swing arm bolt needed.?

Cheers
Simon

yes, a lower profile bolt is part of the kit. I'm guessing yours is missing it?

see picture from CowardlyDuck here

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=266403

strange the kit pictured in the LMX store doesn't picture it either?

https://lmxbikes.com/en/spare-parts/235-belt-kit-for-lmx-64.html
 
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