new eZip motor

They are LTOs ???????

I did not see them.

Not only are the LTOs safer but last 30 times longer than lithium ion.

I seriously doubt any new battery technology out there will be able to beat that in the next 5 years or so but they could match them in a smaller size battery. LTOs are large and take up lots of space but if you can live with that fact you get about 20 years worth of life riding almost every day and 30 years riding a couple times a week.

I do not wish to start a new post as a lot of people follow this post but I would like as much information regarding the LTOs I posted as Until I get a decent fire extinguisher and the proper safety equipment I won't be soldering 18650 cells. I switched from LiPo to lithium ion thinking they were much safer. After watching the news and you tube videos I don't really see a lot of difference.

I want a safe battery pack that could last longer than I do. LTOs look like the best bet for safety and longevity. You might find a better deal per kilowatt hours with lithium ion but remember it only takes one unstable cell to burn down your house or cause an onboard fire. Also you will replace your lithium ion pack 20 or 30 times before you will need to replace an LTO pack.

As soon as I know that the second stimulus checks are officially on the way I am ordering 60V worth of 18 Ah LTO for $550. It could be the best decision I ever make e bike wise. Unless someone knows something I don't about those I will be placing my order.

I am asking as $550 is not chump change by any means as far as my wallet goes so really like as much info. as possible before ordering.

Thanks.

LC. out.

LTO look good, Sunder talked about using LTO in stationary off grid in 2017 thread because LTO just to bulky and heavy. Lots of mention of "safety" but batteries are only as safe as you are. Some mentioning draining them to zero and charging and not losing capacity.

OSN Power sells LTO. Seems to be $10usd per 2.3V cell, 10/15/20Ah. Meaning 20S is 46V(nominal) with its range 1.50V-2.70V. Some say 2.90 others say 3.00V, meaning full charge on 20S is only 60V. 13S is 54.6V for liion. Plenty of voltage for my needs, easy connecting, heavy and bulky.

maybe you can use the trailer to tow the battery pack Just kidding, they are too big for my bike. Could never nount them in a safe balance point.

I have not seen any news on lithium fires lately. I see are large amount of e-bikes down here, A LOT.

You need a metal ammo box, a normal fire extinguisher wont do much but surrounding items.

Dan

latecurtis said:

yea. i guess my builds are shit because i am not a big rich guy. according to tomjasz I need a $2,000 plus downhill racing bike and a cro-motor or better to impress him.

Click to expand...

. No, I did not suggest that. I do see a lot of wasted $$ and ignored suggestions from the posters here that have helped you along for a couple of years. Carry on! It's fun to watch!

No, I did not suggest that. I do see a lot of wasted $$ and ignored suggestions from the posters here that have helped you along for a couple of years. Carry on! It's fun to watch!

Click to expand...

OH.

OK.

Thanks.

More than a couple years. It started in 2014. Seven years now.

Like I said many times I enjoy building e bikes. I am disabled and have had many hobbies in my life. In the 80s and 90s it was home and car audio. I built bandpass isobaric subwoofer enclosures. Home and car audio. In the 2,000s I started building computers. I was great with hardware but not so much with software. In the 2010s It was custom aquariums built with plywood , fiberglass resin and plexi glass. Real glass is much better though if I ever build another one as plexi glass flexes and causes micro cracks in the fiberglass resin. Also marine grade plywood as it wont warp. Drylock masonry paint is non toxic when it cures. 0 VOC in 72 hours.

Then in 2013 I got my first e bike. The Currie ezip Trailz. Soon after Sunder sent me a hub motor and I was totally hooked ever since. Lots of low budget builds as I am on disability.

Today I rode my least expensive but extremally reliable e bike. A little 20" Turbo BMX. Basically a kids bike. It has a 36 - 48V controller. It is 800W @ 48V and 533W @ 36V. I ran my 5 year old lithium packs. 10S - 10P. five 10S - 2P packs all in parallel. DA , DAN and many others told me to run all those in parallel and am glad I listened.

The roads were salted and google mapped my way to the cannabis store as was not sure the usual way was plowed. I did not get lost and made it back with no problems. To be honest I could just run that little bike all the time if I wanted to. I can put my feet on the ground and don't have far to fall if I did wipe out. It has one brake and am ok with it. It is super easy to control and fun to ride.

However I do look forwards to running all my bikes when the weather gets better. I called the motor vehicles this morning and will only be 50 bucks a year for a small cargo trailer and can park it out on the street. One thing I really love about Canton Ohio is there is no alternate parking. In Schenectady NY you had to move your vehicle from one side to the other side for the plow and if it was not moved it got towed. Here they just plow the middle of the street and call it a day. There is a lot of things I love about Ohio. E bike laws are very legal and relaxed. Medical weed is legal with a state issued card. And most important the cost of living is like 1/2 of upstate NY.

I still want to order the LTOs. If I do I will probably never need to order batteries again. I can still build small 10S - 5P packs from 18650 cells for the Bafang and e bikeling motors as the Bafang controllers are only 16 - 18 amps and the e bikeling controllers 22 amps. 10S and 5P with a BMS and can do one for each motor. two e bikeling and two Bafang.

I got the 13S - 7P brand new pack for the 1,000W hub motor SUNDER sent that I fixed and is on a brand new rim. I got the new 10S - 8P pack I ordered last summer that is less than 50 cycles for the 1,000W - 36V chain drive on the front of the 26" dual suspension and also the 750W chain drive on the back of the Currie. The Currie boasts two controllers. The 800W 36V and a 1,000W - 48V so can run my 13S pack if I want to.

The Currie will be a daily commuter as has dirt tires and hopefully a working Bafang motor on the front but those controllers won't be here until April. I ordered from Wish.com and they are really slooooow.

The newest build coming up is the Haro V3 with a 3 kilowatt brushless motor and controller. If I order 60V of LTOs I will have that build covered as well as a cro- motor if I ever decide to order one as LTOs will run about anything.

I have not seen any news on lithium fires lately. I see are large amount of e-bikes down here, A LOT.

You need a metal ammo box, a normal fire extinguisher wont do much but surrounding items.

Click to expand...

maybe you can use the trailer to tow the battery pack Just kidding, they are too big for my bike. Could never nount them in a safe balance point.

Click to expand...

It was just on the news a couple nights ago. I will figure a way to mount them. You know I love to build triangle racks my own way. :lol: Well if I get a fire extinguisher it should be good for soldering as I only solder one cell at a time. I am still deciding what to build. I could build 6S and 4S packs and run them in series so I can balance charge with the LiPo chargers. I could also build 10S packs with BMSs as I have two 10S chargers for lithium packs. And I can also build 3S packs with a BMS and parallel charge them with a charging board. HELL with 200 cells I can do all of the above if I want to.

The bottom line is I will never need to order any more 18650 cells so it won't really matter to me if they do ban them online.

That is as long as I order 60V worth of LTOs.

Thanks for keeping the dream alive.

LC. out.

I remember you talking about not wanting to fall, you should buy a cheap trike, front hub motor. Since your on permanent pogey, you could double use the trike for bottles and metal. A china doll 50cc gasser would be better but electrics the way to go for night crawling.

I remember you talking about not wanting to fall, you should buy a cheap trike, front hub motor. Since your on permanent pogey, you could double use the trike for bottles and metal. A china doll 50cc gasser would be better but electrics the way to go for night crawling.

Click to expand...

I never was big on trikes. Not enough room as it is on a bike for cars going by. Motor vehicles are naturally road hogs.

Ohio don't recycle cans and bottles like NY and most states. There is no deposit and scrap metal is way way down. Very low prices here in the US. If prices ever do go up I have the van for that. Stoves , refrigerators , ACs all are worth something but need a large motor vehicle. I did that with a friend back in 2013 , 2014 and did use the Currie eZip a few times in Schenectady to tow a small shopping cart which I strapped to the back with bungee cords and hit dumpsters behind welding shops as well as tons of cans and bottles. There are pictures somewhere on this post early on.

April 29 - 2015



Yea. It was fun. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

So 60mm x 130mm isn't a big battery?
That will sure add up as you put them together. 130mm + screw ends! Wow that will be rather large. Yes they are safer and will live longer than I will but too big.
Ok with a trailer but no way on my bikes.

Dan

Yes they do take up a lot of room. Basically they could be mounted to a sturdy rear rack. 4" high , 1 foot wide and 2 feet long. for 45V - 60V will be a lot longer or 7" high but then would not be as long. It is something I will figure out if I order them. $550 is a lot of money. I really want to be sure they are real and not fake cells or a scam.

It could be possible to fit them all in a extra large back pack which could be hung from the front handle bars.

However for a useful cargo bike a triangle rack would be ideal but extremely challenging. It would be large yes but possible.

I will look into it. I wish there was a way to find out if anyone ordered them. Reviews can be faked. Also If a custom triangle rack were possible it would make the decision to buy them easier.

Thanks.

LC. out.

You won't be able to pedal at all. But in most cases you Don't! I have 4" wide triangle enclosure on my bike with a longer BB axle and it just clears the cranks. Don't forget they have studs on each side and that will make them wider.

I know Sunder used them on a storage bank and said how durable they are. From dead 0 to full charge and then some and they were great. The problem still is TOO BIG! Don't waists your money on something you'll never use. TOO Bulky!

Dan

I can easily mount that box or a box slightly larger to the top bar. But yes I do see why you cant pedal in a triangle rack as just measured it 5 minutes before reading your post but think I could get 9 to 12 towards the front of the triangle and still pedal.

$550 is a lot of money though. I have a lot of battery packs. 20 Ah - 13S - 7p and 20 Ah 10S - 8P which are new and still have the old 10S - 10P packs and will be able to build more packs from the 18650 cells.

However I will eventually need LTOs for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. Or if I do order a CRO - motor.

Basically the size is not what is holding me back. I can fit 20 of those on the rear rack or the top bar. It is the price that I do not like. However in the long run they are really cheap as a $200 Lithium ion pack would need replacement 30 times to a LTO pack so $6,000 worth of Lithium ion = $550 LTO.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I don't think EQUATE will work :lol: I know you will do what ever you want but just trying to help.

Dan

yea.



Those are exact dimensions. I allowed > 1/2" for the ends. It could easily fit on a rear rack but if I want a rear rack for cargo then 7 could easily fit in a triangle rack towards the front and still pedal and the other 14 on the top bar 5.24" high.

Actually they can all fit on the top bar except for my 20" bikes as the top bar may not be long enough. It will be 6" longer than my old 10S - 10P packs. (bottom pics)

I might wait awhile before ordering. Maybe they will come up with something smaller. It will be a couple months before I get the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt motor done anyway and could take just as long for the third stimuli's checks to show up.

By that time there may be smaller LTOs out there. Not sure if LIFEPO4s are getting banned either. If 18650 cells get banned the price of LIFEPO4 could go down as more people will buy them so they will manufacture a lot more.

Solid state batteries are the next big thing but still 4 or 5 years away I think. Not sure.

https://seekingalpha.com/article/4401725-solid-state-batteries-all-aboard-hype-train

Thanks.

LC. out.

2.5V * 24 = 60V.

Yea.

If I order the LTOs I go 50 mph.

If I order a second 13S - 7P pack it will be 2,400W so I get 40 mph.

If I order the LTOs that pesky little mini bike and that mountain bike with the 50cc motor will be left in the dust.

I will just have to spend about 60 to 70 bucks on a custom sprocket.



Thanks.

LC. out.

What Ah is that?
Click on the up arrow next to latecurtis in the quote to go to the picture.
Picture states 7x3 and each one is like 2.40V nominal. So 36V is like 15S in LTO. I actually dont mind 10S 36V 18650 li-ion, but its nice to have voltages 13S 48V or 14S 52V 18650 li-ion for any hills to get that extra power in the pack and speed.

Hard cased packs, prismatics.
https://www.lithiumvalley.com/battery/30ah-lithium-titanate-batteries/
https://www.ecolto.com/product/30ah-prismatic-lto-cell-lithium-ion-battery-pack-for-energy-storage/?btwaf=18702581
Depending on the actual size, could be worth it if they last 2X or 3X as long. Could be worth making a dedicated frame, or chopping an existing frame and adding to it.

One 2.3V 31Ah is $115 + s/h x 21 is $2400 for 48V 30Ah on ebay.
2.3V 31Ah 173*97*27MM
48V/2.3V=21S 48V 31Ah
Thickness = 21x27mm=567mmx0.03937008=22.3"
Width = 97 = 3.8"
Height = 173 = 6.8"
So the battery is 3.8" x 6.8" x 22.3"
That humongous!

latecurtis said:

yea.
Untitled.png

Click to expand...

Late night run to the beer store or what. I'm downing Canada Dry Club Soda straight from the can for giggles myself, luckily I aint crushing the cans on my chest of decades past. Last week I was on a kick of BUBLY blackberry bubbly sparkling water, taste brought back some memories of daze yore. Literally daze, maybe blackouts to, wait yore not in texas my bad.

I will need to buy a bicycle trailer and maxing out my credit card to carry a few grand worth of LTO that will last forever, yet still only net me 18 miles on a charge for that whatever voltage and 30Ah cells. Might as well build a 80Ah li-ion battery with a million P's and 3 to 5A discharge cells (cheap, like 18650-PF's got lots of Ah but low A).... only using 25-35Ah on a casual ride day, maybe 50Ah on a long ride day. Be sure to install a can holder for my Sparkling Water obsession.



LTO. out.

What Ah is that?

Click to expand...

24 * 2.5V = 60V

perfect match for my 60V brushless motor and controller.

At 4,800 rpm the 72 tooth wheel sprocket is too small though.

An 80T custom sprocket gives me 51 mph gearing.

I still have not tested my Giant Roam with the two geared 500 watt motors.

I still have not tested the 26" dual suspension with the 1,000 hub on the back and 1,000 watt chain on the front,

I still have not ran the brand new 13S - 7P battery pack I bought.

I am still working on the Currie with the 750W chain on the back which is finished but waiting on those controllers to put a Bafang motor on the front and used the fiber fix tape to fix the front fork but ordered more. I used JB weld under it but reinforcing it with the fiber fix.

It was a night of drunkin stupidity. I got the brite idea to put the 1,000W hub motor on the front which did not fit but did not stop me from trying by prying the forks apart with two pressure treated 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 until I snapped the brace and one fork slid down so was about 5 inches lower than the other.

At first I drilled holes and added a steel brace but holes were too wide and the forks were wider and the Bafang motor barley fit before so I decided to remove the steel brace and apply JB weld and use fiber fix to reinforce that. The second fiber fix will wrap around the poles used for the V brakes and around the shocks so nothing can move. I just ordered the second fiber fix.It will be here in March.

With 53V hooked to the rear chain motor the bike is 30+ mph capable. The Bafang motor is for < 20 mph in the city where I need to obey the federal speed limit and of course pot holes and traffic , intersections ect. Also the chain drive is loud. I put low profile handle bars on it so if I do get a Bafang motor going in April the Currie will be my main transportation for the summer. It was my first e bike and has a history.

So basically there is no great rush on those LTOs. I wont need them until May or June when all else is finished and tested. When I stole the handle bars from the Haro V3 I basically made it useless. However I have the 3 kilowatt motor and controller and 8mm chain to build the Haro V3 so that means I will need to do a substantial amount of work on it. Basically a whole new front end including new handle bars. A dual drive hub installed. brand new brakes front and rear installed and a custom 80 tooth wheel sprocket.

Once all those things are accomplished I will be ordering the LTOs. I am waiting to see what the deal is with 18650 cells also. I currently own about 200 cells and ordered two more soldering irons. I am considering building a large 13S pack consisting of 13 - 1S - 10P packs in series. However need a little more feedback from DA. As he is the master at building packs from 18650 cells.

I have came up with several ways to do it but still have not made a decision. I ordered a meter which is supposed to measure internal resistance but still don't know how it works. I was thinking that after 48 to 72 hours after charging that I would be able to know what resting voltage is but was told I need to wait months.

I will need to test resting voltage on all the cells so will need to hook similar voltage cells in parallel and keep them in parallel for a week or two then separate them and wait a month or two as when building 1S - 10P packs I will need all 10 cells to be very close. Like .01 to .02V before I build 1S - 10P. Why 1S - 10P is because it is so much simpler to do. I can the build 13 - 1S - 10P and when I combine them it will look like this. (bottom pic)

It is so much simpler than building 20 - 6S - 1P packs each with a balance plug and a 1S - 10P.

I have two 6S - LiPo chargers so can balance both 6S packs at the same time and could order a small 1S charger to charge the 1P pack.

I know DA has built thousands of large packs with 18650 cells and will know the proper way to match cells that will be used in parallel. Basically it is all I need to know as each 1S - 10P pack will need to act as a single cell so it remains stable with no low or high or unstable cells which could cause a calamity.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I would highly recommend that you not rely on a JBwelded fork ... but I guess it's not that much crazier than some of your other ideas ...

I would highly recommend that you not rely on a JBwelded fork ... but I guess it's not that much crazier than some of your other ideas ...

Click to expand...

The JB weld was only the first step in a 3 part repair.

Fiber fix is step #2.

Step #3 is happening today and is this.



I did not buy the fiberglass resin to fix the fork. I have used the product before for sealing custom built 120 gallon aquariums. If anyone who reads this has an aquarium and happened to move , it is possible that you may have chips in the glass on the edges where the two glass panels come together. There is no protection. I solved the problem about 9 years ago when I moved and had a damaged 45 gallon hexagon tank. The repair is simple as you lay the edge down so it is horizontal , mix and pour the fiberglass resin in the corner molding and place it over the glass panels. When it hardens you use GE silicone #1 CLEAR. and a metal soup spoon to place a large bead inside the tank to seal any leaks. Allow 72 hours before using. Doing all four sides will protect the tank from any future damage. Only clear 100% silicone is safe for fish. Any additives for mold prevention will kill fish. Aquarium stores will sell you a tube for about $15. The GE 100% clear is about $5. Home Depot , Lowes or about any hardware store has it.

I have more Fiber fix tape on the way and will be going over the fork with a second layer and then applying more fiberglass resin before painting. The fork will be 100 times stronger that when it was brand new. Hopefully the Bafang motors will work and can put one on the front. If not I will be ordering another 36V - 1,000 watt brush motor and with 1 - 1/2" pressure treated wood , fiberglass resin and a little LC engineering will mount it to the front. I think I can do the trick without the high BMX handle bars. But would rather just run the Bafang as the motor on the back will do > 30 mph so would rather have a quiet geared hub motor on the front.



What about the batteries. ? Any advice on how to build a 13S - 10P pack ???

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

What about the batteries. ? Any advice on how to build a 13S - 10P pack ???

Click to expand...

As mentioned many times ...
Bulk Capacity Testing

OK. cool.

I will read that again. My soldering irons are at the post office. I will new get a small fire extinguisher as I want to be able to build a 13S - 10P pack safely.

I still have one Eeel and a algae eater. It will probably be the last Asian Swamp Eel I will ever have as they breathe air. They could be carrying a virus.

I had about 6 at one time and bought them when they were small with food stamps from an Asian grocery store in Albany NY. I started keeping them for pets back in 2010. That one is at least 6 years old. They are hand fed Canadian night crawlers.

I brought two to Ohio in 2019 but lost one due to the stress of moving. His only friend now is the Algae eater.

For a < 500 square foot attic apartment I have made the best use possible for the space. An elevator would be great though for the heavy mountain bikes that wont fit in the van. :lol:

2/22/21 - 3:54 PM.

I need to get to the post office by 5 PM.

I just saw this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174595752610?mkevt=1&mkcid=28&chn=ps

[ATTACH type="full" alt="download


(5).png"]0[/ATTACH]


I really hope that third stimuli's package goes thru. That is perfect for the 27.5" silver DimondBack mountain bike out in the van.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Once again, a waste of money on a half-assed project. A new fork would cost less than the wasted products for the half-ass a repair.
I do get the creative approach, but seeing the wiring with no regard for neg or pos, red for pos, and black for neg. So many half-assed wiring and solder joints. An accident waiting to happen! It'd be fun to see a single build done right.

Once again, a waste of money on a half-assed project. A new fork would cost less than the wasted products for the half-ass a repair.
I do get the creative approach, but seeing the wiring with no regard for neg or pos, red for pos, and black for neg. So many half-assed wiring and solder joints. An accident waiting to happen! It'd be fun to see a single build done right.

Click to expand...

My solder joints are good. I use flux and use a thin piece of solid wire by taking the insulation off a twist tie and wrap that around the wires before the flux. I also turn the wire when applying solder so all of the wires are covered. I use a 60W iron. Not a 30 watt so the solder is completely melted. I move the solder tip back and forth awhile turning the wire so the solder covers the entire wire. Not just the top side but all the way around.

The liquid electric tape completely covers the solder and will allow at least 12 hours to dry before applying three thin 6" strips of electric tape about 1- 1/2" before and after the joint. When it is finished I will be ready to run my brand new 13S - 7P pack with the 1,800W brushless motor with the 1,500W controller on the other 20" bike out in the van.

I do have red tape for pos. However I soldered on XT60 plugs so no way to hook in reverse polarity.

My connections are really good. However DA. posted solder tubes a few pages back for future builds.

As far as forks. I do not know how to replace them and have no way of going to a bike shop until the temperature outside reaches 45 degrees as the small 150W heaters I bought don't work well at all. Also I used JB weld to get rid of the lawyers lips and painted them.

Yea I did want to see how good the fiber fix tape works. It does work but by applying fiber glass resin over it it increases the strength by a lot. There is no way those forks will ever fail. I have more fiber fix tape coming and after applying it I will coat it with more of the resin and then paint with oil base paint.

I rode the 20" Turbo bike today to the cannabis store a little while ago. The humidity must be high as I really felt the cold.

Also I ran the newer 10S - 8P packs I ordered last year. They have a lot more power than the 5 year old 10S - 10P pack. I am not sure how much longer I should run the old packs. Is it safe to run really old lithium ion packs. They seem to last forever but lose power and capacity. ????????????

I still have not run the 13S - 7P pack yet.

I hope that it warms up soon as am sick of winter.

The Haro V3 will be more professional as am using 10 gauge wire and those solder tubes DA posted. I will need a 100 amp DC breaker as well. We are talking 70 amps and 3 kilowatts. Also 60V of LTOs.

If I order that 3 to 5 kilowatt QS motor I will also be using 10 gauge wire and a 100 amp DC breaker and those solder tubes DA. posted.

Actually I am ordering those tubes now as I checked and have 50 bucks on my green dot card. So those really good professional builds are going to happen this spring and summer.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

the small 150W heaters I bought don't work well at all.

Click to expand...

I hope you realize that "I" setting is 150w heat "II" (higher speed) is fan only.

I hope you realize that "I" setting is 150w heat "II" (higher speed) is fan only.

Click to expand...

I saw the switch. It said heat and fan. I put it on heat. It works between 35 and 45 degrees or when it rains but wont do much below 30 degrees. I guess 150W is not enough. At least they did not cost much.

Winter just sucks. It is only good when you are a kid sliding down hills and throwing snowballs. The older you get the more winter is a pain in the ass.

So many half-assed wiring and solder joints. An accident waiting to happen! It'd be fun to see a single build done right.

Click to expand...

OK. Not sure if he saw the solder joints , that was step 1. My last post.

Here is step #2.



The pictures show all sides completely covered. Tomorrow I will cut a 6 to 8" piece of electrical tape which I cut in three thin strips which I wrap around 1-1/2" before and after the liquid tape. All three strips for each. Not three strips for both.

If tomjasz wants to criticize my technique then he needs to have all the information available. Part of it is my fault as I am dealing with a camera phone. I finally had to throw out the old Cannon as the port for transferring data to my laptop broke, The screen was already broke and the pawn shop I called don't have any as everyone uses their phones. I need to order another Cannon pocket cam.

I also plan on proving tomjasz wrong by shooting onboard and offboard videos on all my builds this summer. These videos will include brake performance also as most of my e bikes will be going to the bike shop for professional brake installation. Some bikes will get pedal gears as well. I was not lying about doing extensive upgrades.

At least Spring is close. Ground hogs day should be soon. I am very curious about that QS motor. Is it as good as a cro - motor ????

Will it really hit 60 mph ??????



160 N.M. is a lot of torque right ????????

110 kmh is 68 mph. It will be going on a 27.5" rim. Not a 26". That alone will make a 5 mph difference.

Has anyone ever run one of those ???? I heard of QS motors but thought a cro-motor would go faster but now am not so sure. I know BMC and MACs are good for 40 mph but not 50 or 60.

I will need to order the 60V - LTOs first though as it defiantly wont run off a 1,200W rated 13S battery pack. I will have the money for those on the third of March. Actually I have the money now but need to have a savings account with at least 1,000 bucks in it for when I move or get a better motor vehicle.

Thanks.

LC. out.