New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Waynemarlow said:
beemac said:
I will continue my search for an old stumpjumper m5 frame ideally with the nice straight downtube so I can shift the motor forward a bit...
Click to expand...
Actually rotating the motor foward doesn't give any gains, the motor is an eliptical shape, as you rotate it foward the motor profile becomes broader. We have just accepted that its best directly below the BB. Anyway the Chain ring is nearly always bigger than the motor profile and will hit before the motor. You can see the problem here on this straight tube where I thought it would rotate further.
Click to expand...

Sure - but i think your photo does show some benefit, maybe not for clearance - but because the motor is rotated forward the chain is less likely rub against the motor case when in lower gears. More of an issue with smaller chainrings.... but I'll see what happens when I finally find a nice fsr frame at a sensible price. Is really not a great time to pick up bike frame bargains... crazy 2nd hand asking prices!
 
Where ever you have the motor, you have same problem, offset. We have got around that problem by fitting the front chainring gear changer and using it as a guide rather than to change the chainring. With the spread now available on the 10spd rear gear sets of 11 - 48 you only need one front chainring.
 
TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C.
by mbrusa » Mar 01 2021 6:23am

I start this new thread to share the new versions of TSDZ2 OSF.
In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes.

The most important news are:
Field weakening function that allows you to pedal at high cadence. Optimizations to the motor control, the torque sensor and the cadence sensor (from mspider65 - v7).
I added in "Power assist" mode, a very effective boost function, with only two parameters it is possible to modify the response curve of the assistance. Makes "Power assist" mode suitable for all uses.
I also added a new "Hybrid assist" mode, it is a combination of "Torque assist" and "Power assist" modes.
The result is excellent low cadence assistance typical of Torque mode and the extension of Power mode to high cadence.
For a complete list of new features, please read the changelog.txt files and manuals.

Version for VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 with Java configurator:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... VLCD6-XH18

Version for KT-LCD3:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... 20.1C-LCD3

Version for 860C color display:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... 20.1C-860C

English manuals are translated with Google translate, if someone of good will wants to check and improve them there are editable odf files. Thank you.

Have a good time
Open source firmware v20.1C-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18
Open source firmware v20.1C-LCD3
Open source firmware v20.1C-860C
Top
HughF 100 W

100 W
Posts: 223
Joined: Jan 23 2020 5:13pm
 
For the past couple of months, I have been helping test this new version of firmware 20.1C for the 860C!
I have to say it's the best version of firmware I've ever used on the TSDZ2!
Last year mbrusa improved the firmware 20.1 for the LCD3 so it was much safer and better than before!
Then the last few months he was able to add the 860C and 850C displays to the 20.1C firmware and improved it for all the displays!
I want to publicly thank mbrusa for all his work getting his version of 20.1C working on all the displays. And working with me the last two years to make MAJOR improvements to his version 20.1C!
THANKS!
Jeff
 
jeff.page.rides said:
TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C.
by mbrusa » Mar 01 2021 6:23am

I start this new thread to share the new versions of TSDZ2 OSF.
In common they all have the same base firmware, v7 of mspider65 which derives from 20beta1, to which I have added other changes.

The most important news are:
Field weakening function that allows you to pedal at high cadence. Optimizations to the motor control, the torque sensor and the cadence sensor (from mspider65 - v7).
I added in "Power assist" mode, a very effective boost function, with only two parameters it is possible to modify the response curve of the assistance. Makes "Power assist" mode suitable for all uses.
I also added a new "Hybrid assist" mode, it is a combination of "Torque assist" and "Power assist" modes.
The result is excellent low cadence assistance typical of Torque mode and the extension of Power mode to high cadence.
For a complete list of new features, please read the changelog.txt files and manuals.

Version for VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 with Java configurator:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... VLCD6-XH18

Version for KT-LCD3:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... 20.1C-LCD3

Version for 860C color display:
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smar ... 20.1C-860C

English manuals are translated with Google translate, if someone of good will wants to check and improve them there are editable odf files. Thank you.

Have a good time
Open source firmware v20.1C-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18
Open source firmware v20.1C-LCD3
Open source firmware v20.1C-860C
Top
HughF 100 W

100 W
Posts: 223
Joined: Jan 23 2020 5:13pm
Click to expand...

Your links are not working. They are too short, stops before they are full directed.
 
Sorry, I just copied and pasted the post.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=110682

https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-860C/releases/tag/v20.1C-860C

https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-LCD3/releases/tag/v20.1C-LCD3

https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/releases/tag/v20.1C-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18
 
is it worth it to buy the kit for like 30 bucks from electrify or someone else As opposed to getting a few ST links that could potentially be duds? I seem to remember reading about how sometimes you have to buy a few as one or the other or may not work
 
I think the kit included an ST link, I was thinking that they wouldn't risk sending bad ones out so at least for 30 bucks I get one that I know will do the job rather than spending seven dollars here and there wasting time. Maybe I'm wrong or things have changed, but I recall there being an issue where some of the ST links didn't work and they recommended getting a couple tp try out
 
A couple of days ago when I finished my quick ride, I took the bike out of the truck to take it for a spin around the block and noticed that the assist seemed very weak, almost nonexistent. It seems it had to be in turbo mode to really feel anything.

i power cycled and it went back to normal, So I can only surmise that I must have turned the pedal when I was turning on the display and inadvertently screwed up the torque reading

Fast forward to today, I finally got it to some better trails and did about 25 miles. 2/3 of the way in i stopped for a snack and the display shut off, when it restarted the same thing...weak output. tried a few times power cycling to reset it and it was better, but still doesn't feel right. up till now, on sport mode on the trail it was fun and noticeably lively. Now it just feels like it's pulling its own weight. Turbo is probably about where sport mode was but maybe a bit weaker still. I noticed that the motor isnt as loud either

Battery was down to 48v at this time, so about half full. Swapped with a fresh pack when I got home just to see and it still doesn't feel as fast. Anything common I should be looking for?
 
I’ve seen this exact thing if people start up the motor with one foot on the pedal. It makes a huge difference and we have to tell people to stand with both feet on the ground as you power up the motor. A maybe perhaps.
 
thanks for the suggestions, i tore everything down and found that the bracket supporting the rear of the motor had come a bit loose, though oddly the lockring was still pretty tight. my opinion (since i did not notice anything else that seemed amiss) is that this was allowing the motor enough play as to not fully gauge the torque being exerted on it. i did smash it up against a log pretty good that day, so im sure it didnt help, plus its a real bitch to get that bolt on the chainstay tightened so close to the seat tube. i tested a few times today, will see if the problem returns in the future. will probably loctite everything down the road
 
Manbeer said:
thanks for the suggestions, i tore everything down and found that the bracket supporting the rear of the motor had come a bit loose, though oddly the lockring was still pretty tight. my opinion (since i did not notice anything else that seemed amiss) is that this was allowing the motor enough play as to not fully gauge the torque being exerted on it. i did smash it up against a log pretty good that day, so im sure it didnt help, plus its a real bitch to get that bolt on the chainstay tightened so close to the seat tube. i tested a few times today, will see if the problem returns in the future. will probably loctite everything down the road
Click to expand...

casainho has made this solution. This is very good. Here is pictures of casainho:

2019-02-21-16-29-04.jpg

2019-02-21-16-29-19.jpg

2019-02-21-16-29-35.jpg
 
Hello,

Does somebody else here had his motor shaft (holding the cranks) broken ? Mine broke last week on the right side after about 2500Km. So now i have to order a new torque sensor with shaft as it is one piece, or buy a new complete motor as there where some upgrades, like helical gears since my first purchase in 2016.

But i'm still asking myself if it is a good idea since 2500Km isn't that much (Mostly City riding). But i find no equivalent to the awesome open source firmware.
 
nbdriver said:
Does somebody else here had his motor shaft (holding the cranks) broken ?
Click to expand...

Hi. It hasn't happened to me yet, but I read about in the german pedelecforum.de. Some additional bearings should help, as far as i remember. Unfortunatly i cant find the thread. I have a look later, if you think that would help.

PS: I found it:
https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/tsdz2-baugleich-sfm-du-250-tongsheng-schachner-mittelmotor-tretlagerwelle-gebrochen.55070/
 
Thank you for the answers, i'm going to look at the german thread this evening.

And no it is not a fat bike, it is the stock shaft for 68mm BB. I guess i'm going to pay more attention at the power i give and use more assist :D
 
devboy-greg said:
......... I think you need the newer chainring adapter to make it work.
Click to expand...
imho it works with the old and new default spider, but I advise to measure (28mm) to be sure.
But I doubt if this prevent braking of the axle, if you jump standing on the pedals.
 
Does anyone know the way to tell the difference between a 48 volt and a 36 volt bare motor ? I've lost track of a motor ( I had an indelible pen marker voltage on it but it would seem the marker pen is not indeliable and the mark has disappeared ) and need to know what type it is to program it.

If I program it say as a 48 volt unit and it ends up a 36 volt unit, whats the downside ?

Thanks

Wayne.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Does anyone know the way to tell the difference between a 48 volt and a 36 volt bare motor ? ....
If I program it say as a 48 volt unit and it ends up a 36 volt unit, whats the downside ?
....
Click to expand...
If you can compare two bare motors, you can try to measure the resistance of the windings.
For the 48V this should be a little higher.

If you load 48V to a 36V motor, then the max. rpm will be around 5000 instead of 4000 rpm
The downside is heat if you don't keep the power limited to about 500w max.
 
now at 110km on mine. its a great motor for trail riding. one thing i noticed about this is you really FEEL when the battery voltage drops down a few volts. not sure why it seems so noticeable vs my other setups but its possible that the 500w unit i have is really the bare minimum to get the results im after. in either case, on sport mode, on the trail its fluid and intuitive feeling. did 24 miles mixed trail and rode with most being trail today and used roughly 300w/hr (granted i was pushing the pedals pretty hard) so id say that so far the efficiency has been about as much as i can ask for
 
Manbeer said:
now at 110km on mine. its a great motor for trail riding. one thing i noticed about this is you really FEEL when the battery voltage drops down a few volts. not sure why it seems so noticeable vs my other setups but its possible that the 500w unit i have is really the bare minimum to get the results im after. in either case, on sport mode, on the trail its fluid and intuitive feeling. did 24 miles mixed trail and rode with most being trail today and used roughly 300w/hr (granted i was pushing the pedals pretty hard) so id say that so far the efficiency has been about as much as i can ask for
Click to expand...
If you use our OpenSource firmware, the efficiency is even higher.
 
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