New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Does anyone happen to have a CAD file for the unit?

I am inspired to get a second one and hack it into something more like the Rocky Mountain Dyname 3.0 system.

Keep the lower housing and the small helical gear, off the blue gear run a 12t cog to a 44t cog on a jackshaft. The jackshaft would run a 12t to the rear cassette. It would involve flipping the output to the non drive side and switching wired so run it in reverse.

Need to figure out the torque sensor as I would like to run modern cranks instead of square taper, but could live with them short term to get it running.
 
shirk said:
Does anyone happen to have a CAD file for the unit?

I am inspired to get a second one and hack it into something more like the Rocky Mountain Dyname 3.0 system.....
Wapous had made some drawings of the complete tsdz2 for experimenting with this sort of modifications too.
If you read back you see the disccussion.
 
shirk said:
Need to figure out the torque sensor as I would like to run modern cranks instead of square taper, but could live with them short term to get it running.
Far better to get a small adaptor machined up from the square taper to the say the Shimano round where you can buy all sorts of length cranks and various offsets.
 
nbdriver said:
Hello,

Does somebody else here had his motor shaft (holding the cranks) broken ? Mine broke last week on the right side after about 2500Km. So now i have to order a new torque sensor with shaft as it is one piece, or buy a new complete motor as there where some upgrades, like helical gears since my first purchase in 2016.

But i'm still asking myself if it is a good idea since 2500Km isn't that much (Mostly City riding). But i find no equivalent to the awesome open source firmware.

You can buy them from ebird store on aliexpress, go to the $19 shipping option and pay for it and message them saying you want to buy an axle. I snapped an axle my standing on it at a traffic light uphill!!
 
Hello all, I just inherited a tsdz2 motor from a collegue but the controller has a 8 pin connector and I have a 6 pin display. Is it a simple case of connected like for like colours at both ends together and leaving the 2 excess ones alone? Kind regards.
 
Elinx said:
shirk said:
Does anyone happen to have a CAD file for the unit?

I am inspired to get a second one and hack it into something more like the Rocky Mountain Dyname 3.0 system.....
Wapous had made some drawings of the complete tsdz2 for experimenting with this sort of modifications too.
If you read back you see the disccussion.

Thanks, I had missed that I will message him.
 
Waynemarlow said:
shirk said:
Need to figure out the torque sensor as I would like to run modern cranks instead of square taper, but could live with them short term to get it running.
Far better to get a small adaptor machined up from the square taper to the say the Shimano round where you can buy all sorts of length cranks and various offsets.

I plan to build a custom frame around repurposing the motor and primary drive but making a new secondary reduction then driving the rear cassette with a 12t cog.

Pretty sure I can repurpose a load sensor that will measure the chain pressure coming off the cranks before the chain goes into the output drive, this is how Rocky Mountain does it and how the new little "Lightest" unit does it.

Plan is to strip everything down to it's bare minimum and build a 350w eMtb running with just a single 14s1p battery. Primary use will be for a short lunch hour ride on the trails where the power is just an addition for the initial climb then it's all downhill back to home.
 
manoz said:
Hello all, I just inherited a tsdz2 motor from a collegue but the controller has a 8 pin connector and I have a 6 pin display. Is it a simple case of connected like for like colours at both ends together and leaving the 2 excess ones alone? Kind regards.

The colours in the wires do not match. Check this page for the proper combinations. If you want to use a brake sensor (or throttle), you can attach another cable(s) to the 8 wire cable as well, or just leave the excess wires cut.
 
ilu said:
manoz said:
Hello all, I just inherited a tsdz2 motor from a collegue but the controller has a 8 pin connector and I have a 6 pin display. Is it a simple case of connected like for like colours at both ends together and leaving the 2 excess ones alone? Kind regards.

The colours in the wires do not match. Check this page for the proper combinations. If you want to use a brake sensor (or throttle), you can attach another cable(s) to the 8 wire cable as well, or just leave the excess wires cut.

Aah thanks for that, at least 2 are the same!
 
Waynemarlow said:
Where ever you have the motor, you have same problem, offset. We have got around that problem by fitting the front chainring gear changer and using it as a guide rather than to change the chainring. With the spread now available on the 10spd rear gear sets of 11 - 48 you only need one front chainring.

Yes, I have done the same thing and fitted an 11-50 cassette and keeping the front gear changer fitted. The range works well on road and also for serious off road. The chain line looks bad, but my chain lasted 1000 miles, so who cares. That included plenty bottom gear work in mud and gritty conditions
 
Waynemarlow said:
Well that told me. Yup the Bosch does have a more pleasant noise but I would put the overall motor noise about the same as the best of the TSDZ2's we have.

Then we have the Bosch CX rattle when not peddling, the TSDZ2 is infinately quieter. When you can hear the rattle 2 bikes away as soon as you all stop peddling, then you know its loud and really annoying. :D

Hi Wayne. I think you are a master of good maintenance and quiet motors. As much of the noise will be from the gears, I wonder if your choice of grease could be a key issue. I bought some basic silicone grease for the plastic gear, but I'm not convinced. What grease would you recommend? Thank you.
 
am i going nuts or do i recall that there was a way to get more info on the display (human power and watts etc)

fwiw, i only have the vlcd5 so i dont know if it was a different display or not, but when i first start it up i see many different spots on the lcd that look like it can do more, yet trying to find info on it, it seems about as no frills as possible
 
Manbeer said:
am i going nuts or do i recall that there was a way to get more info on the display (human power and watts etc)

fwiw, i only have the vlcd5 so i dont know if it was a different display or not, but when i first start it up i see many different spots on the lcd that look like it can do more, yet trying to find info on it, it seems about as no frills as possible
Yes, see here our EBike OpenSource firmware:
- https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki
- https://opensourceebike.github.io/
 
awesome, i knew i remembered it from somewhere!

i guess im finally going to have to bite the bullet and do it. ive been pretty happy with everything in stock format but i keep finding more reasons
 
Manbeer said:
..... more info on the display (human power and watts etc)
.... i only have the vlcd5 .........
For vlcd5 you can try the latest build for stock displays made by mbrusa.
There is also the possibility to get that info on a vlcd5 too.
You only need a st link v2 for flashing the controller.
The basic settings can be programmed with a grafical interface on the PC.
 
After conversing with @casainho and talking about how we love our bikes and where they can take us, he asked me to post this picture I sent him.
Happy trails...
giant-anthem-s.jpg
 
Just took a closer look at the torque sensor on one of the axles I had from destroying the transfer ring and it's occurred to me that the torque sensor itself is just a hall effect sensor reading the movement of the two little magnets. Am I correct here?
 
shirk said:
Just took a closer look at the torque sensor on one of the axles I had from destroying the transfer ring and it's occurred to me that the torque sensor itself is just a hall effect sensor reading the movement of the two little magnets. Am I correct here?

Jep. You are right.

https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/funktionsprinzip-drehmomentsensor-im-mittelmotor-sfm-du-250-p-tsdz2.45029/
 
devboy-greg said:
After conversing with @casainho and talking about how we love our bikes and where they can take us, he asked me to post this picture I sent him.
Happy trails...
file.php
Your bicycle is beautiful but not so much as that fields view!!

I really like the battery design, also because is small and the way it is attached to the frame. Was that a DIY or did you bought it? can you please give more details about it? maybe some close up photos?
 
casainho said:
Your bicycle is beautiful but not so much as that fields view!!

I really like the battery design, also because is small and the way it is attached to the frame. Was that a DIY or did you bought it? can you please give more details about it? maybe some close up photos?
It is a custom built battery, I realised early on that the making of a full suss conversion would be the battery, most bought ones won’t fit in the frame especially when the rear suspension is using a piggy-back shock.

It’s 320wh, 13s 2p 185650 cells with BMS and internal fuse. I designed it in fusion 360, the case is 2.4mm 3d printed PETG, with 3d printed internal cell holders. It’s quite a bit of work to build one of these, so not for the faint hearted (I only do it out of necessity). I have designed and built other sizes as well.

I will take and post some pictures when I have it on the bike next, I use a simple but effective system of velcro straps to fit it to the frame using the water bottle cage bolts screwed all the way in just as locating pins (so it can’t rotate) which has so far never failed even in extreme rocky descents.

320wh battery.png
 
devboy-greg said:
casainho said:
Your bicycle is beautiful but not so much as that fields view!!

I really like the battery design, also because is small and the way it is attached to the frame. Was that a DIY or did you bought it? can you please give more details about it? maybe some close up photos?
It is a custom built battery, I realised early on that the making of a full suss conversion would be the battery, most bought ones won’t fit in the frame especially when the rear suspension is using a piggy-back shock.

It’s 320wh, 13s 2p 185650 cells with BMS and internal fuse. I designed it in fusion 360, the case is 2.4mm 3d printed PETG, with 3d printed internal cell holders. It’s quite a bit of work to build one of these, so not for the faint hearted (I only do it out of necessity). I have designed and built other sizes as well.

I will take and post some pictures when I have it on the bike next, I use a simple but effective system of velcro straps to fit it to the frame using the water bottle cage bolts screwed all the way in just as locating pins (so it can’t rotate) which has so far never failed even in extreme rocky descents.

file.php
Thanks for the explanation.

It is not only beautiful the final result (I must say all EBikes with TSDZ2 are a bit ugly because of that chinese battery case and because they are very big compared to the frame tube size - yours has a very good size!!).

My EBikes are also ugly even If my battery is custom. I need to design and 3D print also the enclosure for my batteries.

You have something I that I do not and that I want: my batteries are glued to the frame using the black tape (the same you seem to use around your 3D printed enclosure) and on long travels I wish to quick remove the battery like to charge on a restaurant while I eat or simple to exchange for a charged one. I need to look better to your solution of velcro straps and also that way to avoid rotation.

And I also have 2 batteries of 14S 2P 185650 cells with BMS, that is a nice size!! But we can always go to a size like 12S or 11S or any other with a 36V motor...

I wish we could have an OpenSource design for battery packs, with an easy fix way to be easily removable. Also the design should be parametric so user could change some parameters like the cells configuration. I think users are buying big batteries without the need, so ending with an heavy ebike and more expensive.
 
as you were saying above, it seems like the 36 V is the best one to start out with for flexibility if you're planning on going OSF, Are there any disadvantages such as lower thermal mass?
 
I recommend these kind of straps for securing the battery (actually I think Voile Strap is the original, but a bit more expensive). They strech just enough to make a snug fit, but are still quite robust and easy to remove. I have a generic 'shark' battery attached to water bottle mounts, but I use three straps to make it suitable for rough off road riding.
 
Hi, first post here )

Speaking about battery cases, I stumbled upon a nice design someone has made :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJK2sumRNJw&t=1s

He managed to fit a 13S6P in there.. It gave me inspiration for my next build and I think I will make a smaller 18650 14S3P (or maybe a 21700 14S2P) in the same location, with the case made in Kepler style : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=65719&hilit=close+packed+18650

What's interesting with this design, besides the aesthetics, is that is easily allows to fit a second battery in the triangle for extended range if needed.
 
Back
Top