Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)

Well I traced the pulse wire up the the speedometer but still unsure what it does.
 
Says on the diagram, pulse output for indicator. Indicator for voltage or speedometer?
 
Cgrcjet said:
Problem is that on the APT controller the boost, eco, reverse mode etc. Are all switched on a ground while the Kelly is switched by 12v.

Use an NO SPST relay on each signal you need to switch. Connect one side of the relay coil to 12V, and the other side to each of the grounding switches already on the bikes. Connect one side of the NO switching contact on the relay to 12v, and the other side to the Kelly's signal you are using on that particular switch. The ratings for the relay will be a coil that matches the "12v" of your system (which is usually 13.6v or so for most automotive stuff; you'll need to either measure your 12v to find out what it actually is, or check the DC-DC converter to see what it says it's supposed to be). The contacts can be rated for anything at or above 12vdc. All the ratings need to be DC, not AC.
 
👍Thanks for the reply. I was just researching it and came across a video that talked about these relays and how you can reverse it. So I'm guessing the switching is inside the twist throttle on the left bar for boost reverse etc.? Is there a way to just reverse it on the switch or change out the switch, or am I missing something here?
 
You may be able to simply change the wiring somewhere at or near the handlebar controls...but then you're hacking up the wiring harness, taking apart perfectly functional bike parts, etc., leaving the risk of doing something wrong that fries something else unrelated, or breaking the functional parts and having to then replace those, probably with something else you don't like as much (because the original may not be available to you).

Before you start, you'll also have to trace out all the wiring of the bike, and make yourself a good easily-readable diagram, so you know for sure you're only changing the wires you need to.

It's "simpler" to just use the relays to do the signal change, because it is easily undoable, especially if you install them right *at* the controller. Then if you change back to the original controller (or another that uses the original's switching method) you only have to remove the relays to go back, and not have to rewire the bike again, or take apart handlebar controls, etc.
 
Any suggestions for a decent SSR that is robust enough for live-switching these DC power levels but doesn't cost the moon?
 
Thanks Amberwolf. I will look into trying that. I'm not real savvy on all this electrical stuff but definitely motivated to learn. I've got a ways to go still 😪
 
john61ct said:
Any suggestions for a decent SSR that is robust enough for live-switching these DC power levels but doesn't cost the moon?

SSR? Is that like a contactor switch?
 
Relay, solenoid, contactor, remote switch. . .

Solid-state electronics rather than big heavy old school mechanical type, and NOS a must

Longer MTBF for the good ones, not as much spark/welding/pitting going on

Usually not cheap at high DC currents, the chinese almost always too "optimistic" in their ratings.

At lower voltages you hit high amps sooner, once past say 80A continuous, sourcing gets lots harder

Hoping @amberwolf has some good suggestions ideally links

but of course anyone can answer
 
I got mine from Kelly controller. I searched everywhere and didn't realize they had them. I didn't think I would ever find one that could handle my requirements. Good price too.

Main Contactors - Kelly Controls
https://kellycontroller.com/product-category/contactors/main-contactors/
 
Cgrcjet said:
I got mine from Kelly controller. I searched everywhere and didn't realize they had them. I didn't think I would ever find one that could handle my requirements.
You don't need contactors to switch signal lines. Simple tiny relays (size of a sugar cube or less) will do that.

Contactors are used only when switching high current (and/or high voltage) battery-to-controller connections, for main power off / on, emergency shutoff, etc.
 
amberwolf said:
Cgrcjet said:
I got mine from Kelly controller. I searched everywhere and didn't realize they had them. I didn't think I would ever find one that could handle my requirements.
You don't need contactors to switch signal lines. Simple tiny relays (size of a sugar cube or less) will do that.

Contactors are used only when switching high current (and/or high voltage) battery-to-controller connections, for main power off / on, emergency shutoff, etc.


Yeah, I got these for the main battery connector. Will definitely try the smaller relays to switch the switching on the other wires.
 
Sorry for the OT diversion, but wow great examples there from the Kelly page, thanks!
 
Are the internal parts/capacitors stamped/rated at 150V??
Company says max voltage is 120V but mayve we can go even higher to 130V or 140V safely??
 
The fets are rated at 150V, most likely the caps also.
This doesn’t mean it’s safe for 150V, used voltage needs to be lowered/derated to cover voltage spikes.

It’s a grey scale, probably a bit over 120V works and 140V don’t.
 
larsb said:
The fets are rated at 150V, most likely the caps also.
This doesn’t mean it’s safe for 150V, used voltage needs to be lowered/derated to cover voltage spikes.

It’s a grey scale, probably a bit over 120V works and 140V don’t.

I see.
I also dont see any mounting tabs like on the sabvotons.:(
 
I've found an APT 120800 which is rated at 120V, but if the caps and FETs of the 96600 are also rated at 150V it might make no sense to pay the extra and just get a 96600/961000 instead?

I mean a 30-33s battery sounds tempting :D
 
bingbwy said:
larsb said:
thanks, that's one more link.. i'm sure there is some logic to the menus, i just don't see it yet 8)

there are 14 steps for the current setting both in "protection" and "flux weakening" menu. I guess they are settings to 14 rpm steps from zero to max rpm set for the mode that is used. Since my motor is IPM it's tolerant to flux weakening so i'll try to set the steps with higher flux weakening than 50-80A. I guess this setting is for hub motor?

i wonder why 7 should be larger than 6 (apart that more flux weakening is needed at higher speed)?
why no current settings done higher than step 7 in the guide?
what does the "mode" setting do?
What do you think about my guess?


How can I activate Mode 5 on the 72400 controller? Recently I got the latest firmware from a Chinese seller

Hi, I just got my own APT 72400 controller, but somehow I couldn't make the programming software work. Is if possible to get a copy of the firmware that you got? How did you make it work?
 
Good day, just found this board. I have English manuals for the APT 96800s I bought if anyone wants them. I am also trying to figure out how to program and get them up and running. Hope to get to read and learn a lot here soon. Thank you.
 
Oh my GOD sir! I read about your foil board crash about 3hrs ago and I am still cringing!!! I am a longtime powered board builder and rider and that has so long been a personal nightmare of mine. Thank goodness you are alive friend. One of the addictions of power boarding for me has been the amazing view of the water, that must be even more awesome way up on your foil. I bet you have some beautiful views of that in your memories brother, I know I do! I did see the other manuals posted so please forgive that, I just am getting up to speed on ES. I am a bad combo of old and still a newbie! I also read something of crashing your ebike? Please stay alive sir! I could really use the help on the forum, and you are very knowledgeable. I am now trying to build the most powerful escooter possible, an electric trike, as well as an amphibious powered board, so this forum is golden to me. Thank all you guys very much.
 
No worries, i hope to stay alive and yes, the feeling and view up on foil is superb! I try to ride once a week at least during the winter. It’s been a great winter with sessions of riding next to thin breaking ice that starts singing from the small foil waves.
 
Wow, very cool. You are one extra hardy soul sir. Amazing building skills also brother. Do you have video of you riding? I am still not able to install the firmware they just sent for my 96800 controllers, and I just got my batteries! Aarrgh! The disc they sent didn’t work either, so I am getting anxious to see them work. Do you know if they need power to the controllers to install firmware? Thank you very much boss. I have just done a quick browse, but some amazing builders and projects here. :thumb:
 
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