MH RYZ (derbi 50cc)

Hey hope you can have some ideias from the build. I use all the bolts , at beginning i did mistake when doing the holes for the motor support and had to drill new ones lol. The motor is bolt with a aluminium plate in one side and the own motor bracket is bolt in midle of frame , hard to see. I try to set it up all very tight and make it ligth as possible. My goal is to have a bike with decent performance and same time be nimble with good weigth distribuition. Im sory for my english.
 
Batteries fron Nkon.nl are here. Tested voltage and 160cells come with 3,47v and 40 cells come with 3,46v. Very good quality.
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Got 200+2 cells for 990,79eur with postage for a 20s10p (2880w nominal)
 
guiga said:
Got 200+2 cells for 990,79eur with postage for a 20s10p (2880w nominal)
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Just less than 5 euro each cell, that makes almost 350 euros per kWh. Pretty expensive!

I was considering buying 300 Samsung INR21700-50G for 4 euros each. That would be less than 230 euros per kWh.
 
guiga said:
Hi there , will be a 10 front sprocket wit 59 tooth rear sprocket so will be a 1x5.9 gear ratio on a 17 inch wheel.
What you guys reckon? bike under 70kg with a qs 138 4kw motor , kelly kls 7250 400 phase amps and 20s10p 21700 samsung batteries.
I notice that the controller only comes with a 150amps slow fuse so may not be so strong???
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you’ll need a bigger controller for max performance, i have been running the smaller QS 138 70H at max 300A battery / 450A phase and 1:8 gearing and it’s a blast. Given that the 90H motor has roughly the same kV but higher max torque means that to utilize it you need higher phase current.

Seems counter intuitive but torque=(9.55/kV) x I so same kV motor and same current gives same torque even when comparing a smaller and a larger motor size (if smaller motor is not saturated). Scale phase current with the difference in stator width at 450*90/70=580A, so a 600A phase current controller would suit this build well. ASI BAC 8000 would be interesting to see, or the matched Votol EM-200.
 
Thanks for the info my friend. The controller i got is the kelly kls 7250 n witch is 380amps probably phase amps. Been tweeking the controller and is very responsive now. I also got a asi 8000 from other build but cause the asi was from alan , got no credentials! What do you think about this idea for the battery? Maybe still need to solder also.
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Sad to hear that you also have the ERT issues. Controller will be useless without update and it’s not cheap..

Battery looks good, your spot weld energy is a bit too high, it’s almost breaking through the strips.

before soldering i’d load the battery with some high current and calculate the internal resistance, then decide.
 
Looks great! Could you describe the issue with the asi 8000? Isn't there a way to fix it? Sounds a bit sad to have a useless controller when its just a software thing.
 
When buying ASI from electric race technologies/ERT you don’t always get a password for the controller program so it’s effectively a bricked controller if you need to update something, at least that’s what i’ve seen described here on ES. Sucks.
 
Shouldn't it be possible to just download new unlocked software to it? Ask ASI for unlocked software?
 
Been busy and also waiting for new soldering iron . 200w. Still more parts to come.

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Its alive! Had to change front suspension , dint like the pit bike suspension.
Have install a contactor and a pre charge system.
BMS display had a small fall but still works.

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guiga said:
Have install a contactor and a pre charge system.
BMS display had a small fall but still works.
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I ordered the same delay timer! What precharge resistor(s) do you use? Or a little schematic, so I know I'm on the right track!
Nice build by the way!!
 
Here my shtty schematic lol but good enough for you to have a ideia how it works. This group is for sharing and help so i will do my best.
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It runs. Had to turn aceleration ramp down to 20 in kelly controller cause was way to wild , i just couldnt ride the bike witout spinning and lifting front wheel from start lol. Just need some minors astetics to be finish.

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Your build has come out real good. Can i asked how do you fit the 10t front sprocket ,its a taper shaft on your motor ?
Cheers.
 
EVOXY6768 said:
Your build has come out real good. Can i asked how do you fit the 10t front sprocket ,its a taper shaft on your motor ?
Cheers.
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Hi , the sprocket is a lill bite wider and yes is tapered but it works good enough. Its from a UK store , search for MightE. Some other good stuff there also.
 
guiga said:
EVOXY6768 said:
Your build has come out real good. Can i asked how do you fit the 10t front sprocket ,its a taper shaft on your motor ?
Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hi , the sprocket is a lill bite wider and yes is tapered but it works good enough. Its from a UK store , search for MightE. Some other good stuff there also.
Click to expand...

Hi, I'm also from Portugal, did you buy the motor from that shop? I'm thinking of buying the QS 138 90h and the Voltor 200, what do you recommend?
 
If you going to build something similar as this build, go for the QS138v3 motor with internal gearing. Its perfect for this kind of build and you don't have to have a large rear sprocket.

These guys peak 30kw with that motor:
https://youtu.be/zhzN1Eg4tSk
 
hugok said:
If you going to build something similar as this build, go for the QS138v3 motor with internal gearing. Its perfect for this kind of build and you don't have to have a large rear sprocket.

These guys peak 30kw with that motor:
https://youtu.be/zhzN1Eg4tSk
Click to expand...

Thanks Hugo
 
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