Alexplatts18's troubleshooting thread

alexplatts18

alexplatts18

10 mW
Joined
Apr 18, 2019
Messages
26
Does anyone know where I can buy this stem from?
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What frame would you go for if you were going for quality?

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I'm looking at buying a F.U.T.R. Alpha frame and have no idea what motor would be best suited. I would like to have at least 5kw output. In an ideal world 12kw would be great but not sure how easy it would be.
Any help would be appreciated!
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If you want a hub motor, Mxus 5k turbo is a good option. some guys run the 3k turbo version with the adappto max E controller at up to 14kw peak. the 5k is rated at 5k continuous.
 
You can get more than 12kw for sure. Get a QS273 motor. ASI BAC4000 is my favorite solution for high power fully programmable controller in that power range. Make sure to buy from ASI themselves not ERT unless you want to get lied to and not receive you own login to program the controller. Yes ASI sells to individuals just be professional and email from a "company" email address.

That setup should have you easily power wheeling past 40 mph.
 
as others have said, MXUS are good options 3k or 5k (i have a 3k on my modded stealth, running ~8kw peaks with FF and hubsinks, no heat issues).

QS motors are worth a look too, higher power than the MXUS's from what Ive read, but heavier too.

you'll definitely want to look up 'hubsinks' and 'ferrofluid' if you want reliable power ~5kw too.

If you want to look at mid drives, theres the 'big block' motors (lightning rods kits etc) that will do 6+kw peaks, and a few RC style options if you're willing to put in some work to build reduction drives etc.

If you want to do serious offroad, then a mid drive is going to be superior - but they tend to be less reliable, harder to retro fit, and nosier, so there's a notable trade off. Hubs are silent, eerily so... great for commuting and lighter offroading. You can do serious stuff but it takes a lot of suspension work, and even then it wont be the same as a good mid drive.
 
Has anyone made a parts list for less experienced individuals that still want to build an ebike? Preferably ( between 5kw 12kw)

Any help will be appreciated
Thanks

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alexplatts18 said:
Has anyone made a parts list for less experienced individuals that still want to build an ebike? Preferably ( between 5kw 12kw)

Any help will be appreciated
Thanks

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Click to expand...

"less experienced" and "5kw - 12kw" probably isn't a good mix. But, most ebike kits come with all the parts necessary to convert a bike to an ebike (less the battery, but some kits come with a battery too).
 
There is no list, and too many viable options on the market to make one.

Like, do you want mid drive, hub motor, do you want a good one or a cheap one, do you want a good controller or a cheap one, how big of a battery, what type of battery?

The best you can do is ask for specific recommendations for your situation.

And don't mess around with 5+kw on a bicycle. Even if you have motorcycle experience the bicycle is different territory. That's enough to go more than 50 mph and even the very best and most expensive bicycle brakes are inadequate to panic stop from that speed. Not to mention all the other issues with components experiencing forces they probably weren't engineered to deal with unless you have a downhill MTB.
 
I'm an Electrition so I have a decent amount of knowledge on the electrical side of things. I previously bought a 12kw ebike. I would now like to build my own. I've already bought a 70A controller 19inch wheels with the hub driven motor. I will probably build it off the enduro frame. I'm looking at the 72v battery would buy one rather then build it at home.
 
So you've already bought parts, but want a parts list? :?

If you want help picking stuff out, you have to specify exactly what you already have, what exactly you want it to do, under exactly what conditions you want it to do that, and what your budget is.

Without that info, it's pretty difficult to give you any useful advice, other than "go look at all the other motorcycle build threads" to see what they used and see if that's what you're after.
 
Possibly starting point:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_yHTRN6DMs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VF5qwiyU5Kw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWTA05zAm3Y

Ladi sells as well a complete list of parts with references as a 2 or 3 hour build video.

But in general I would agree: Without good base knowledge and experience building lower powered bikes, playing around with higher wattage can get dangerous as well as possible frustrating when buying the wrong parts.

Just my two cents,
Holgi
 
alexplatts18 said:
I'm an Electrition so I have a decent amount of knowledge on the electrical side of things. I previously bought a 12kw ebike. I would now like to build my own. I've already bought a 70A controller 19inch wheels with the hub driven motor. I will probably build it off the enduro frame. I'm looking at the 72v battery would buy one rather then build it at home.
Click to expand...

So you’re just looking for a battery and frame?


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Jeremy Harris said:
OK the plug you took apart is the Hall sensor connector. The red wire should have around 5V on it, the black wire will be 0V and the yellow, blue and green wires are the outputs from the Hall sensor.

If you are very careful not to short anything, you can test the Hall sensors like this.

1. Connect the Hall sensor connector to the controller, but for safeties sake leave the three way phase connector disconnected.

2. With the back off the Hall connector (as in your photo), carefully connect the meter on the volt range between the black wire and the yellow wire. Make sure your meter probes don't short any of the connections.

3. Turn on the power to the controller and don't touch the throttle.

4. Rotate the wheel slowly by hand (or get someone else to rotate it if you're holding the meter probes steady) and you should see the voltage on the meter switch from 0V to about +5 V several times as the wheel rotates. If it does, then it means the Hall sensor on the yellow wire is working OK.

5. Repeat this test for the blue wire and the green wire. If all three wires show a switching voltage as the wheel is turned then you know that the Hall sensors are working OK. This means the problem will be somewhere else and we need to think again.
Click to expand...
Hi I have exact the same symptoms I ran the test and was getting 4.28v across everything cable so I connected between the red cable and every other cable.

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Hi,
My mub motor won't work at all I keeps saying controller protection. I took it apart and it looked a bit burnt. Not sure if it's worth replacing hall sensors or not.
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Hi, Could someone tell me how to connect up a sabvoton svmc 72200 to a cycle analyst. I've attached the controller wiring diogram below

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alexplatts18 said:
Hi, Could someone tell me how to connect up a sabvoton svmc 72200 to a cycle analyst. I've attached the controller wiring diogram below
Click to expand...
There's no attachment. You'll need to follow the directions here to attach an image:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14748&p=1609431#p1608685

Regarding connecting a CA, it depends on exactly what you want the CA to do for you, and which version of it you have, as to how you would connect it.

For some ways of doing it, your controller must have a "CA connector", and if it doesnt', you'd have to open it up and add one.

Alternately you may need to purchase extra hardware to connect it in other ways to do the same things.

Since we dont' know what you want the system to do for you, and we don't know all the parts and versions of them that you have, we can't tell you how to connect them together. You'll need to provide a complete list of all of those things for us to tell you what specific connections to make.

Without that, you would have to go here:
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst.html
or here:
https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html
or to the manual of the CA you have, and follow the guidelines there on wiring and setting up the CA for your purposes.
 
Hi I've got the same issue but I'm using a cycle analyst display so can't power it on with the display.

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So I've replaced my old throttle as the old one got water damage. I bought a new one and reconnected it up to the cycle analyst and the screen turned off. Tryed plugging it in the savoton direct still no joy. The cable connection is exactly the same as the Last throttle aswell.
Any help would be appreciated!
 
alexplatts18 said:
...The cable connection is exactly the same as the Last throttle aswell.
Any help would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Obviously it isn’t. I mean, it could have the same wire colors and still be connected differently inside. Shutting off the CA screen when plugged is something to worry about about a short.
 
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