flippy said:they are not fuses, they are PTC's. they protect the cell against overheating,pressiure and other assorted damage that might result in a "RUD". its a safety valve that opens the inner cell to the outside air and breaks the electrical connection.
Only if the cell itself wold explode. So generally no. But per cel fusing is stupid and should notbe done.Dak77 said:flippy said:they are not fuses, they are PTC's. they protect the cell against overheating,pressiure and other assorted damage that might result in a "RUD". its a safety valve that opens the inner cell to the outside air and breaks the electrical connection.
Will those pop in the case of an external short?
Chalo said:So why are you planning to use vape pen cells instead of cells that match the application?
flippy said:batteries like the HE4 can handle more current then you would ever need without having pouches doing their "zwelgje" routine.
(aka: thats a cute little harmless cartoon dragon that gets larger, breathes fire and kils everyone around him when it gets angry)
cheap chinese pouches are never to be recommended, especially not to padawans....
Ok i draw a circle in blue . is this the spot you and goatman are talking about?99t4 said:OK, I don't know, for all the questions except for your question #10:want to build said:I know that is a lot of questions, i would apreciate if you could answer them all even if the answer is dont know.
No, the point suggesting you read the link was mainly for you to see the image (BTW, not that image you referred to with all the numbers, but the one before it) to see where the center pin meets the bottom anode (-) cap, in the center, where it is not recommended to solder, or even spotweld. As you seemed to be unsure of the reason to avoid heat-stressing that immediate area.want to build said:10)Would you say that the point of suggesting me to read the link is to look at the image and not to suggest me going in the way of using fuse wire?
I mentioned the (not)fuses, as, since that article was written, there has arisen some controversy on whether those are even in fact fuses. Didn't want anyone reading this in the future to get the wrong idea either.
want to build said:Chalo said:So why are you planning to use vape pen cells instead of cells that match the application?
chalo you are recommanding me rectangular cell instead of vtc4 sony exact? why exaclty? tx what are their cost and price, pros and cons
HI chalo, i m an open person always willing to learn. the truth is that i did not know they exist. could you paste the spec of the cell you talk about , their price and a short pros and cons of using them instead on 18650 and then I will try to bring back the questions of what is the problem with the rod in 18650 cause it is still a mystery for me . You are welcome to share your info , please use facts and data so we can see what you mean .Chalo said:want to build said:Chalo said:So why are you planning to use vape pen cells instead of cells that match the application?
chalo you are recommanding me rectangular cell instead of vtc4 sony exact? why exaclty? tx what are their cost and price, pros and cons
The point is, why build a pack with 52 cells when you could build an equally capable pack with 13 cells? Less work, fewer points of failure.
want to build said:[could you paste the spec of the cell you talk about , their price and a short pros and cons of using them instead on 18650
Yes, more welds means more places to have a bad electrical or mechanical connection. But that's only one of the problems with using a relatively large pack built up from vape pen cells.I wonder what you consider point of failure, do you mean more welding so like more chances to do a bad weld?
The anode rod comes in contact with the center of the can end thus any soldering or spot welding should preferably be done off-center closer to bottom can edge than at the center. Whereas the protective (explosion proof) cathode cap more easily dissipates any excess soldering or spot welding heat due in part to an inexperienced novice builder with less than desirable equipment prolonging the weld time.want to build said:... what is the problem with the rod in 18650 cause it is still a mystery for me .
The anode rod comes in contact with the center of the can end thus any soldering or spot welding should preferably be done off-center closer to the can edge than at the center. Whereas the protective (explosion proof) cathode cap more easily dissipates any excess soldering or spot welding heat. Due in part to an inexperienced novice builder with less than desirable equipment prolonging the solder or spot weld time and cell damage.want to build said:... what is the problem with the rod in 18650 cause it is still a mystery for me .
eMark said:The anode rod comes in contact with the center of the can end thus any soldering or spot welding should preferably be done off-center closer to the can edge than at the center. Whereas the protective (explosion proof) cathode cap more easily dissipates any excess soldering or spot welding heat. Due in part to an inexperienced novice builder with less than desirable equipment prolonging the solder or spot weld time and cell damage.want to build said:... what is the problem with the rod in 18650 cause it is still a mystery for me .
flippy said:batteries like the HE4 can handle more current then you would ever need without having pouches doing their "zwelgje" routine.
(aka: thats a cute little harmless cartoon dragon that gets larger, breathes fire and kils everyone around him when it gets angry)
cheap chinese pouches are never to be recommended, especially not to padawans....
Chalo said:I don't know anything about those specific cells, except that they're in the Ah capacity range you were discussing. One of my batteries uses PHEV2 format prismatic cells with threaded studs. The other one uses a pouch cell pack from a Mercedes-Benz. I'd put the reliability and safety of either one above any pack made of vape pen or flashlight cells.
want to build said:Chalo said:I don't know anything about those specific cells, except that they're in the Ah capacity range you were discussing. One of my batteries uses PHEV2 format prismatic cells with threaded studs. The other one uses a pouch cell pack from a Mercedes-Benz. I'd put the reliability and safety of either one above any pack made of vape pen or flashlight cells.
hi can you link 2 or 3 shopping link of those cells so i have an idea of the cost? tx
want to build said:hi they were 25 usd for 1 rectangle , how many would it need to be similar to 13s 4p vtc4?
Chalo said:want to build said:hi they were 25 usd for 1 rectangle , how many would it need to be similar to 13s 4p vtc4?
One 25Ah PHEV2 cell is equivalent to 12 VTC4 cells, in terms of energy storage.
It has two screw terminals, rather than 24 terminals that must be welded.
want to build said:Chalo said:want to build said:hi they were 25 usd for 1 rectangle , how many would it need to be similar to 13s 4p vtc4?
One 25Ah PHEV2 cell is equivalent to 12 VTC4 cells, in terms of energy storage.
It has two screw terminals, rather than 24 terminals that must be welded.
Hi im two noob to calculate the energy storage in 13s 4p ... i used to be able but gosh planning a battery construction takes took me so much time and still isn t settle
Chalo said:It has two screw terminals, rather than 24 terminals that must be welded.
flippy said:Chalo said:It has two screw terminals, rather than 24 terminals that must be welded.
why do you keep making it sound like welding is a bad thing? pretty sure there are more welds in a car then bolts.