Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

I'm getting my motor in today and I have a Nucular 24f. Was just wondering what kind of junction box are you guys using to connect these thick ring terminals to? I was looking online and only found the small yellow ones for low powered ebikes so far.
 
I got my 24f all wired up to my bike and my qs273

I'm using a temporary battery out of my esk8 12s 24ah until my 20s battery is done.

I did the auto setup and the motor spins for a fraction of a second and just stops while making a high pitched noise. Test goes from initiating to stopped. Is it because the battery voltage is too low?
 
Now I'm realizing that it's not detecting my thumb throttles. I have 2 and when I set up brake I see the voltage move from 0.764 to 0.768 could I have 2 faulty thumb throttles?
 
I'm pretty sure I have them wired correctly but I'm stumped as I don't have another kind of throttle to test. Seems like it will not detect these cheaper thumb throttles.
 

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This is the thumb throttle I'm using. I've been at this for hours. I have two of the same throttle. I'm at the point where I'm starting to think the throttles are incompatible or they are just broken idk. I just want to ride my bike lol.
 

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I need some help, I have a Nucular 24F with Firmware from 2019 I like to upgrade him to the latest firmware. But I can't manage to do so. I have put the latest version on a micro sd and followed the instruction on the Nucular website but I get a error. Help please with this problem. The Nuc is working wel but I would like to make my own throttle curve.
 
Nucular 24f works perfect. I just had the bad luck of getting 2 bad throttles. I got replacements today and I was off to the races :)
 
I am having trouble getting the throttle to detect and had a question.

When looking at the "# throttle" or "# brake" lines in the control sub menu, does the voltage number change in real time as the throttle/brake is pressed? I have tried multiple different throttles and brakes and my value just stays at ~0.7V whether or not the throttle/brake is pressed. I am using the controller side inputs.

Thanks.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
transposon said:
Cowardlyduck said:
Seen similar when the throttle is outside the voltage limits. Try widening the voltage range for throttle input and see how you go.

It looks like the throttle is making a connection because for the "# throttle" value I am getting 0.708V and it goes to 0 when I disconnect the throttle. However, that number does not change when I turn the throttle.

I tested on a multimeter that my throttle, when wide open, goes to 4.4V. I opened the max voltage setting on the controller by 100mV at a time, and tested all the way up to 5V and still nothing.

Should the "# throttle" value increase in real time according to the throttle level?

Any other suggestions?
Make sure the throttle input voltage actually allows throttle voltages that low. I think the default normally starts at around 1V so it might be causing a fault with it being so low. I also recall max throttle voltage is less that 4.4V, so that could also be causing a problem for you.

Cheers

Should the min throttle voltage be set to just above the current throttle voltage, or just above it? When I set the brake voltage to just below the current brake voltage, I hear noise coming from the motor. Even with it set this low, the voltage does not change in real time when applying the brake.
 
transposon said:
Should the min throttle voltage be set to just above the current throttle voltage, or just above it? When I set the brake voltage to just below the current brake voltage, I hear noise coming from the motor. Even with it set this low, the voltage does not change in real time when applying the brake.

Use the auto setup function and it sets everything for you as long as you twist to full throttle when it tells you to and release when it says. Then you can fine tune from there if you want with minimum throttle voltage slightly higher to avoid creep at no throttle if your throttle drifts. On the 5 ebikes I've put Nuc's on so far, I've done nothing beyond the auto setup on my throttles and they all work perfectly. On the brakes, which I use a half twist (a full one cut off) on the left grip, I have adjusted the max voltage lower on 2 of the bikes, so less twist is needed for full braking. I cut the brake throttle quite short (just an inch or so) and use a grip with a ring and allen head bolt to tighten for a solid grip on the bar with the heel of my hand and 3 fingers, with thumb and index to reverse twist. It takes a bit of getting used to, but becomes perfectly natural with good control and can still work the hydro brake too. My son's ebike has a thumb throttle for the ebrake, and I don't like that as much.
 
John in CR said:
transposon said:
Should the min throttle voltage be set to just above the current throttle voltage, or just above it? When I set the brake voltage to just below the current brake voltage, I hear noise coming from the motor. Even with it set this low, the voltage does not change in real time when applying the brake.

Use the auto setup function and it sets everything for you as long as you twist to full throttle when it tells you to and release when it says. Then you can fine tune from there if you want with minimum throttle voltage slightly higher to avoid creep at no throttle if your throttle drifts. On the 5 ebikes I've put Nuc's on so far, I've done nothing beyond the auto setup on my throttles and they all work perfectly. On the brakes, which I use a half twist (a full one cut off) on the left grip, I have adjusted the max voltage lower on 2 of the bikes, so less twist is needed for full braking. I cut the brake throttle quite short (just an inch or so) and use a grip with a ring and allen head bolt to tighten for a solid grip on the bar with the heel of my hand and 3 fingers, with thumb and index to reverse twist. It takes a bit of getting used to, but becomes perfectly natural with good control and can still work the hydro brake too. My son's ebike has a thumb throttle for the ebrake, and I don't like that as much.
Sounds interesting, do you mind sharing a photo of how it looks?
 
Berglundsimon said:
John in CR said:
transposon said:
Should the min throttle voltage be set to just above the current throttle voltage, or just above it? When I set the brake voltage to just below the current brake voltage, I hear noise coming from the motor. Even with it set this low, the voltage does not change in real time when applying the brake.

Use the auto setup function and it sets everything for you as long as you twist to full throttle when it tells you to and release when it says. Then you can fine tune from there if you want with minimum throttle voltage slightly higher to avoid creep at no throttle if your throttle drifts. On the 5 ebikes I've put Nuc's on so far, I've done nothing beyond the auto setup on my throttles and they all work perfectly. On the brakes, which I use a half twist (a full one cut off) on the left grip, I have adjusted the max voltage lower on 2 of the bikes, so less twist is needed for full braking. I cut the brake throttle quite short (just an inch or so) and use a grip with a ring and allen head bolt to tighten for a solid grip on the bar with the heel of my hand and 3 fingers, with thumb and index to reverse twist. It takes a bit of getting used to, but becomes perfectly natural with good control and can still work the hydro brake too. My son's ebike has a thumb throttle for the ebrake, and I don't like that as much.
Sounds interesting, do you mind sharing a photo of how it looks?

How which looks? I have lots of ebikes and built lots more that others have that never ever break down, so tell me what specifically you want to see and I'll try to post good pics.
 
"On the brakes, which I use a half twist (a full one cut off) on the left grip, I have adjusted the max voltage lower on 2 of the bikes, so less twist is needed for full braking. I cut the brake throttle quite short (just an inch or so) and use a grip with a ring and allen head bolt to tighten for a solid grip on the bar with the heel of my hand and 3 fingers, with thumb and index to reverse twist."

I'm about to install a 24f nuc and with that a second throttle for regen, wondering how your setup looks like.
Thanks in advance
 
I know the 24f does a lot of things I dont understand. Is there any way to use front wheel speed data to influence rear wheel acceleration or speed?

Using the available rear wheel acceleration rate parameter hasnt produced the results i want for wheelspin control.
 
My Bafang G510 motor is now controlled by a Nucular 12F at 72v with functioning hall sensors. Thank you Endless Sphere, Nucular Electronics and Nucular Electronics Telegram group for teaching me how to make it happen!
 
Battosaii said:
This is the thumb throttle I'm using. I've been at this for hours. I have two of the same throttle. I'm at the point where I'm starting to think the throttles are incompatible or they are just broken idk. I just want to ride my bike lol.

Did you learn the throttle?
 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938 ... 4c4dt1TZMg

Link for Nucular Controller PHD2.0 crimped connectors sold on AliExpress

In case this link dies, the seller is WEPRO and the store number is 1200686.
 
Can hand brakes share the same input as an analog (throttle) brake? I'd like to have both types of brakes cut power to the motor for safety.

---EDIT--- Just got the answer on telegram. Handbrakes can use the digital inputs. On my controller (6F) they are "I/O 1" and "I/O 2".
 
What connector does Nucular use for the waterproof hall connector on the 24f?

I need to source a couple of motor-side 6p hall connectors, preferably with pigtails, but am having more trouble than anticipated locating them.
 
Can someone please tell me how to find the "Display buttons" menu? According to:
https://docs.nucular.tech/doku.php?id=en:display:start&#display_buttons_setup it is in:

Settings - On-board computer - Display buttons

But I simply do not see it there. Am I missing something?
 
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