Bafang front wheel Uber motors - which controller
- Thread starter gobi
- Start date
docw009
1 MW
Did they send you two c-washers, two serrated washers and those two funky nuts?
You can buy M12 x 1.25 flange nuts. Hard to find at hardware stores although Lowes says they have regular nuts in this thread.
I bought them in the past on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Liberty%EF%BC%8C4pcs-1-25mm-metric-orthodontic-stainless/dp/B085BMKFTK/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=M12+x+1.25&qid=1619317930&s=hi&sr=1-12
Here's nut, c-washer and an inner washer. I would put the torque arm between nut and c-washer. Might need a thinner c-washer. You might have to file the slot 1 mm deeper with a round file. It was designed for a 10mm axle, but an ebike axle is 12mm x10mm. Hence, to get the axle properly centered, the drop has to be 1mm deeper.
You can buy M12 x 1.25 flange nuts. Hard to find at hardware stores although Lowes says they have regular nuts in this thread.
I bought them in the past on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Liberty%EF%BC%8C4pcs-1-25mm-metric-orthodontic-stainless/dp/B085BMKFTK/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=M12+x+1.25&qid=1619317930&s=hi&sr=1-12
Here's nut, c-washer and an inner washer. I would put the torque arm between nut and c-washer. Might need a thinner c-washer. You might have to file the slot 1 mm deeper with a round file. It was designed for a 10mm axle, but an ebike axle is 12mm x10mm. Hence, to get the axle properly centered, the drop has to be 1mm deeper.
Chalo
100 TW
docw009 said:
The tabbed washer doesn't help if you lift it out of the fork tip slot that way. Put it on the inside of the fork tip, with the C-washer on the outside.
motomech
10 MW
Throw those cast things away and use a torque arm on each side. This is a BIG, powerful motor!
Chalo
100 TW
motomech said:
Tabbed washers were considered adequate for fleet use. I don't know what the maximum phase amps were for the 250W controllers in Jump bikes, but I assume they were lower than that of the 20-25A controllers we're more likely to pair with the motors. I also assume the forks were better than most at resisting axle torque.
markz
100 TW
Tabbed washers are ok for 40 newton meters.
https://youtu.be/c96n0Ma2rLY?t=1136
https://youtu.be/c96n0Ma2rLY?t=1136
Tabbed washer - my oldest figured this one out, I could only use one on the caliper side, there was not enough space in the inside for 2nd one on the motor wire side.
I have the NOTHING in the side where the motor wire is, is this OK?
Docw009, thanks for the pic. Thanks I picked up 2 nutz from Lowes and ordered a bunch from amazon. I think I bought 50.
Torque Arms - I have 2 torque arms on the front hub, they are facing the front of the bike, again my daughter did the research and figured this one out too.
I ran to lowes with my D driving the diesel truck and picked up a 2inchx 36inchx1/8inch aluminum stock, it ran $12.
I cut off 11.5 inches and drilled a couple of holes to fit the drink holder.
I used Scotch velcro from walmart to attach the controlled to the top of this plate.
I have the wires tired at the top lightly till I figure out what to do with them.
Battery - This is next, no idea how to store the battery, for now I used a Similac bag I was given my D's peds 11 years back.
The bag I bought from amazon was TOO big, I bought a smaller one, let's see how that fits. I wish I had a 3d printers, I could print a nice battery box.
Drum ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
It works!
It is so much riding this, dang this sheesh is powerful, the motor pulled me up a 25% include with EASE without any help from me, wow.
PIcs below, more pics later of hub.
All I can say is:
Amberwolf, motomech, LewTwo, Chalo, markz and docw009
Thanks for helping me in this ebike build!
I need to build another one for my oldest now
I have the NOTHING in the side where the motor wire is, is this OK?
Docw009, thanks for the pic. Thanks I picked up 2 nutz from Lowes and ordered a bunch from amazon. I think I bought 50.
Torque Arms - I have 2 torque arms on the front hub, they are facing the front of the bike, again my daughter did the research and figured this one out too.
I ran to lowes with my D driving the diesel truck and picked up a 2inchx 36inchx1/8inch aluminum stock, it ran $12.
I cut off 11.5 inches and drilled a couple of holes to fit the drink holder.
I used Scotch velcro from walmart to attach the controlled to the top of this plate.
I have the wires tired at the top lightly till I figure out what to do with them.
Battery - This is next, no idea how to store the battery, for now I used a Similac bag I was given my D's peds 11 years back.
The bag I bought from amazon was TOO big, I bought a smaller one, let's see how that fits. I wish I had a 3d printers, I could print a nice battery box.
Drum ROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
It works!
It is so much riding this, dang this sheesh is powerful, the motor pulled me up a 25% include with EASE without any help from me, wow.
PIcs below, more pics later of hub.
All I can say is:
Amberwolf, motomech, LewTwo, Chalo, markz and docw009
Thanks for helping me in this ebike build!
I need to build another one for my oldest now
Attachments
LewTwo
1 MW
You don't really want that controler in an insulated bag.
That Aluminum housing needs open air as it acts as a heatsink to dissipate heat from the mosfets.
That Aluminum housing needs open air as it acts as a heatsink to dissipate heat from the mosfets.
LewTwo said:
Agree, I moved it since to the outside, it is velcro'd to the top of the alu plate I attached to the drink holder.
Additional items:
1. finish connector for hall sensor wire
2. make box to house batteries
3. figure out how to see actual speed,
Views of the torque arms on both sides with arm facing the front of the bike.
One side the lowes nut is 1 thread low, there was not much meat to thread the nut.
For the hose clamps, I added some old tube with electrical tape to protect the fork paint.
Looks ok?
What should be the torque for the hub nuts?
One side the lowes nut is 1 thread low, there was not much meat to thread the nut.
For the hose clamps, I added some old tube with electrical tape to protect the fork paint.
Looks ok?
What should be the torque for the hub nuts?
Attachments
Chalo
100 TW
I set up another one yesterday, this time with 48V for an unloaded speed of 32 mph.
Two tabbed washers in forged CrMo fork tips for now, but Grin TAs are on the way. Hopefully there's enough room for one, because those axle studs are really short. I'll probably need to delete the lawyer lips to make it work.
Two tabbed washers in forged CrMo fork tips for now, but Grin TAs are on the way. Hopefully there's enough room for one, because those axle studs are really short. I'll probably need to delete the lawyer lips to make it work.
Chalo said:
Nice,
I see you have a v-brake on the uber wheel,
so we can use a v-brake on these wheels?
wow, this opens up a lot of options in bike choices,
48v - I remember asking about this, so the hub is compatible with 48v from what I read here and watched a few videos on over volting.
Is the limitation that we can't run it WOT at 48v too long due to possibility of overheating?
Chalo
100 TW
gobi said:
The rim says don't do it, and setting up the pad angle is tricky. But I couldn't figure out a reason not to try it with good soft pads.
Since the bike is for a close friend of mine, I can keep an eye on it and relace the wheel with a better rim and thinner spokes if there is a problem. I probably wouldn't take that chance for a paying customer.
If the rider is heavy or carries cargo, it would be best to switch out the rim and spokes straight away. Thick spokes are a really dumb limitation on the capabilities of the wheel.
The controller's amp rating is more relevant to motor heating than the added voltage. Higher free speed does increase the Amount of time you'll run in an inefficient (hot) speed range, though. I use 22A controllers.
LewTwo
1 MW
Chalo said:
In Austin (or anywhere in South Texas) everything is subject to overheating in August-September .... including the pavement.
markz
100 TW
The Townie Electra 21D's are a nice bike, I keep my eyes out for a good priced used one.
Why did you route the cable to the inside of the fork and the inside of the front rack?
Why did you route the cable to the inside of the fork and the inside of the front rack?
Chalo said:
Chalo
100 TW
markz said:
I wanted to minimize the chance of snagging on stuff.
motomech
10 MW
Yes, that is the best way. If one traces the direction of the wheel as the bike moves forward, the opposite direction is the torque direction of the axle. In this case, the TA's are moving against the fork tubes, rather than pulling away from them. If there is any slop in the TA's, they should be "preloaded" w/ the axle torque direction in mind.
Tight, w/out damaging the threads. Not trying to be a wise-a$$, but I don't use a torque wrench on them because they don't have to be killer tight. But I use Loctite on ALL the hardware on these frt. mounts. Every time the whl. is removed, I don't clean the threads and they build up a crudy sort of paste that further holds them in place. On a new install, best to ck them several rides in.
To further tidy-up the install, the cable loop should exit to the rear and if the hose clamps are rotated slightly, the loose ends can be fed into torque arm slot. That will look nicer than them just ending out in the air.
Chalo said:
Nice job on tucking the wires away, that is a big rear trunk, how is that attached to the rack?
Gotcha, I check the rim and it is made of Alu, I ordered a set of v-brakes of amazon to upgrade the cantilever brakes on a donor bike for moi. Keeping the controller and wires close to the motor cleans up the entire appearance a lot. Did the front carrier come with the bike?
Chalo
100 TW
gobi said:
https://www.jbi.bike/site/product_details.php?part_number=95715
It comes with some little steel bars that bind the bottom of the case against the rack top.
I already have a smaller rack trunk on order for this bike, because this one has to be loaded with a lot of packing foam to keep the battery from dancing around in there. Also I think my buddy may have a little trouble swinging his leg over it.
https://www.jbi.bike/site/product_details.php?part_number=45838
It was in stock at the bike shop where I work. I substituted a thicker, straighter stainless steel rack stay for the squiggly nickel plated one that comes with it.
Chalo, Thanks, ordered a couple of the front racks off ebay. The rear trunk is bit too big and I could not find a the internal dimensions, yes, I don't want the battery to bounce around too. I have some soft sided lunch boxes/cooler, I am going to check and see if an of them fits my 48v 15ah battery, that might just work for me and keep the $$$ low.
motomech said:
Thanks for confirming the placement of the torque arms, I plan on putting 2 on each of my build.
Torque: lol, I looked up the torque on the internet and it was about 30 lb/ft for the nut, I ended up using a small wrench to snug it feel the slippage stopping.
I visually checked the area below the nut and one side was a little bent inwards, little bit more force straightened it.
Maru got to try her bike today,
How fitting is her t-shirt.
I worked with my oldest to somewhat finish another bike, Mr Yellow. The old Li-ion cell died on the first up-hill push but worked.
She needs to grow another couple of inches and she will be fine with this one.
How fitting is her t-shirt.
I worked with my oldest to somewhat finish another bike, Mr Yellow. The old Li-ion cell died on the first up-hill push but worked.
She needs to grow another couple of inches and she will be fine with this one.
Attachments
Brake Sensor:
ebike brake cut off sensor
The Schwinn comes with this funky brake/gear shifter combo.
Can I use a 2-pin magnetic brake sensor for hydrolic brakes with PSW controller? If yes, which one please.
High vs Low:
Sorry for the stupid question, but high vs low brake connections, what is the rationale? which one should I use?
Throttle:
The left thumb throttle is working, not sure I should move to a moto type right throttle with brake cut off. I have to ask the girls and maybe install one and work with their input, but yes I agree, I should make it uniform with other power stuff we rent during summer at the beachy locations.
Mr Yellow:
I bought this bike cuz of the COLOR, lol, dropped half my life savings $40, I mounted a rear carrier from a donor bike and used an old lunch cooler for the battery. I need to find a small plastic basket to zip tie to the carrier to keep the lunch cooler in.
Any idea how old this bike is?
ebike brake cut off sensor
The Schwinn comes with this funky brake/gear shifter combo.
Can I use a 2-pin magnetic brake sensor for hydrolic brakes with PSW controller? If yes, which one please.
High vs Low:
Sorry for the stupid question, but high vs low brake connections, what is the rationale? which one should I use?
Throttle:
The left thumb throttle is working, not sure I should move to a moto type right throttle with brake cut off. I have to ask the girls and maybe install one and work with their input, but yes I agree, I should make it uniform with other power stuff we rent during summer at the beachy locations.
Mr Yellow:
I bought this bike cuz of the COLOR, lol, dropped half my life savings $40, I mounted a rear carrier from a donor bike and used an old lunch cooler for the battery. I need to find a small plastic basket to zip tie to the carrier to keep the lunch cooler in.
Any idea how old this bike is?
