ok folks here is the hybrid ebike.
- Thread starter bike4life
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999zip999
100 TW
32mph
Chalo
100 TW
I get 33.6 mph if it's actually 1600W at the rear wheel, assuming total weight of 350 pounds rolling on two wheels. Increased weight or adding a trailer will drag it a little lower.
The easiest way to get 1600W at a specific speed is to have a lot more than that much peak power available. If you don't, you have to be clever about matching the motor's power curve with the wheel diameter and RPM.
If all you have to work with is 1600W maximum at the wheel, chances are the equilibrium speed will be lower, because the top speed will occur when the motor's output is less than 1600W.
The easiest way to get 1600W at a specific speed is to have a lot more than that much peak power available. If you don't, you have to be clever about matching the motor's power curve with the wheel diameter and RPM.
If all you have to work with is 1600W maximum at the wheel, chances are the equilibrium speed will be lower, because the top speed will occur when the motor's output is less than 1600W.
LewTwo
1 MW
After going over the cliff or when striking the ground in the valley below ?Eastwood said:
Hmmm ... I guess the latter would be how fast can it brake (break)?
https://youtu.be/66CP-pq7Cx0?t=224
dogman dan
1 PW
Thats why I keep saying he should at some point, go ahead and put as much as 3000w for 40 mph into that motor, because then he can have a 1600w (measured at the battery output) cruise speed. And the motor should not fry too quick, pulling 1600w on flat ground. But up much hill, that trailer may cause the entire rig with rider to weigh more than 300 pounds. Eventually, the hybrid rig needs a bigger motor, or dual motors.
I never had a dog trailer. I just had lots of dogs, big dogs. I was into rescuing bloodhounds for quite a while, and had a big pack of hounds in foster, which would be found permanent homes later. I haven't had my house locked in decades. Thieves won't even walk down my street.
I speak dog, and act a lot like a dog. I'm basically a mog, like John Candy in Spaceballs.
I never had a dog trailer. I just had lots of dogs, big dogs. I was into rescuing bloodhounds for quite a while, and had a big pack of hounds in foster, which would be found permanent homes later. I haven't had my house locked in decades. Thieves won't even walk down my street.
I speak dog, and act a lot like a dog. I'm basically a mog, like John Candy in Spaceballs.
I get 32MPH with 1660 watts into motor.
I'm using fat tires which is 29" at the tread.
You will need to play with various motor RPM options and pack voltages to dial in power/speed of motor.
*) 1600 watts into the motor if you RPM is too high will get you a slow bike (will not be able to overcome air resisanct, etc. to achieve speed) with low torque.
-or-
*) 1600 watts into motor if RPM is too low will also get you slow bike (max RPMs because of low motor KV will never spin wheel fast)....but grunt for pulling hills will be very good due to higher torque.
You need a good balance of pack voltage, motor KV, and ability of pack to deliver sustained 1600W watts.
I'm using fat tires which is 29" at the tread.
You will need to play with various motor RPM options and pack voltages to dial in power/speed of motor.
*) 1600 watts into the motor if you RPM is too high will get you a slow bike (will not be able to overcome air resisanct, etc. to achieve speed) with low torque.
-or-
*) 1600 watts into motor if RPM is too low will also get you slow bike (max RPMs because of low motor KV will never spin wheel fast)....but grunt for pulling hills will be very good due to higher torque.
You need a good balance of pack voltage, motor KV, and ability of pack to deliver sustained 1600W watts.
MadRhino
100 GW
The simple answer is: watts don’t make any speed, they only can help fighting the resistances. Watt is a unit of power.
You can build a bike that will do 5 mph no matter how high the amount of watts that you feed it. The watts available to transform into motion will decide if it can do it with a child on, or pulling a bus full of people.
Same logic for limitations: you can build a bike with components that could do 100 mph, but the resistances (wind, load, incline...) will keep it from reaching that top speed until it is fed enough watts to make it possible.
You can build a bike that will do 5 mph no matter how high the amount of watts that you feed it. The watts available to transform into motion will decide if it can do it with a child on, or pulling a bus full of people.
Same logic for limitations: you can build a bike with components that could do 100 mph, but the resistances (wind, load, incline...) will keep it from reaching that top speed until it is fed enough watts to make it possible.
bike4life
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 82
the bms reads 0 volts. i cut off the top lid part of the pack so i could manually charge the battery pack since its 13s, i measured 40volts on the pack so i placed a lead from the - and + and let it charge at around 2c for 20 minutes till it reached 44 volts. It still didnt recognize the bms and i decided to cut off the bottom half.
cutting open the bottom half revealed all sides of the battery and i noticed a corroded terminal / nickel strip. That particular 2s, 6p segment of the battery with the corroded terminal i guess it got wet or something since there is rust / iron oxide only on that nickel strip and the rest of the battery is clean shows 0 volts.
what should i do. im not sure if its rust, see i left my ebike out of the rain and its unusal how that part of the battery is corroded but everything else is fine. the rust could also not be rust and the battery leaked juice i dont know if the rain was a coincidence, anyhow how do i fix it and is it possible.
the cells look fine no damage, no swelling, just this brownish corrosiion on one cell group area. all other cell groups are fine in the pack and read 4ish volts about.
I find it unusall that charging the whole pack manually bypass the bms did not raise the voltage of this pack up slightly like from 0 volts to like 0.4 or something. does that suggest its toast.
cutting open the bottom half revealed all sides of the battery and i noticed a corroded terminal / nickel strip. That particular 2s, 6p segment of the battery with the corroded terminal i guess it got wet or something since there is rust / iron oxide only on that nickel strip and the rest of the battery is clean shows 0 volts.
what should i do. im not sure if its rust, see i left my ebike out of the rain and its unusal how that part of the battery is corroded but everything else is fine. the rust could also not be rust and the battery leaked juice i dont know if the rain was a coincidence, anyhow how do i fix it and is it possible.
the cells look fine no damage, no swelling, just this brownish corrosiion on one cell group area. all other cell groups are fine in the pack and read 4ish volts about.
I find it unusall that charging the whole pack manually bypass the bms did not raise the voltage of this pack up slightly like from 0 volts to like 0.4 or something. does that suggest its toast.
bike4life
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 82
i have this volimart kit ebike.
Has one of these throttles. The ebike will not turn on or move, the controller throttle led is last bar - orange or sometimes nothing.
I measure 54v at the battery. I could not get the bike to run or the throttle display to turn the bike. I was able to get the motor to humm a bit but nothing else. What confused me is if the battery is dead, why can i read 54v.
I decided to temporarily for a split second short the battery power leads with a key on my keychain. this created a big spark and spot welded a little drop of copper to my keys.
Upon doing this, the ebike battery still reads 54v but the ebike runs and the throttle display shows full 3 bars.
why is this happening and is it safe to do this like once a day or something with the key to get it to work???????
is it a bad connection? bad bms ? bad controller ?
Has one of these throttles. The ebike will not turn on or move, the controller throttle led is last bar - orange or sometimes nothing.
I measure 54v at the battery. I could not get the bike to run or the throttle display to turn the bike. I was able to get the motor to humm a bit but nothing else. What confused me is if the battery is dead, why can i read 54v.
I decided to temporarily for a split second short the battery power leads with a key on my keychain. this created a big spark and spot welded a little drop of copper to my keys.
Upon doing this, the ebike battery still reads 54v but the ebike runs and the throttle display shows full 3 bars.
why is this happening and is it safe to do this like once a day or something with the key to get it to work???????
is it a bad connection? bad bms ? bad controller ?
Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
Just once a day? About what time?
docw009
1 MW
I don't think you can do that short the battery trick more once a year.
Brand new kit? looks like some protective plastic wrap on that throttle. Check your wiring, Are you overvolting the bike? Is it a 36V kit with a 48V battery? Try a new throttle?
Brand new kit? looks like some protective plastic wrap on that throttle. Check your wiring, Are you overvolting the bike? Is it a 36V kit with a 48V battery? Try a new throttle?
It is not safe to short the battery output ever, for any reason. Not even once.
The BMS had probably been trying to protect you against some problem with the bike (overcurrent, problematic cell, etc.). You may still be able to troubleshoot the bike to find the problem it was protecting you from, but your best indicator of it's existence and whether or not it's fixed is now gone, probably permanently:
Shorting the output probably blew up the BMS discharge FETs that were protecting the battery from the problem (which usually causes them to fail in a stuck-on state). If so, now the BMS won't be able to protect the battery against any future problems, like overdischarge, overcurrent, etc., leaving the battery vulnerable to damage that could cause a fire at some future point.
I'd recommend taking the battery to a qualified repair facility near you to be tested for this problem, and replacing the BMS if it was indeed destroyed by your action.
I would strongly recommend against you opening it up at all for any reason.
If this is the same pack from this thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=115410
it probably has other damage from being left in the rain and from being charged at 2c (which being a 6p pack probably means more than 25 to 30 amps, way way way more than even an undamaged pack could handle), and would be much safer to replace it entirely before you have a fire.
The BMS had probably been trying to protect you against some problem with the bike (overcurrent, problematic cell, etc.). You may still be able to troubleshoot the bike to find the problem it was protecting you from, but your best indicator of it's existence and whether or not it's fixed is now gone, probably permanently:
Shorting the output probably blew up the BMS discharge FETs that were protecting the battery from the problem (which usually causes them to fail in a stuck-on state). If so, now the BMS won't be able to protect the battery against any future problems, like overdischarge, overcurrent, etc., leaving the battery vulnerable to damage that could cause a fire at some future point.
I'd recommend taking the battery to a qualified repair facility near you to be tested for this problem, and replacing the BMS if it was indeed destroyed by your action.
I would strongly recommend against you opening it up at all for any reason.
If this is the same pack from this thread:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=115410
it probably has other damage from being left in the rain and from being charged at 2c (which being a 6p pack probably means more than 25 to 30 amps, way way way more than even an undamaged pack could handle), and would be much safer to replace it entirely before you have a fire.
bike4life said:
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