Cyclon 3000w Motor Problem

TS81

TS81

1 mW
Joined
Jul 27, 2021
Messages
17
Hi,

I have a self build ebike with the cyclon 3000w motor. The motor worked fine for approximatly more than 5000KM. I recently had to replace the geards from the reduction drive. After that it worked fine again.
Recently I drove a steep uphill path. Suddently the motor stopped. It still workes if it is moved a bit. Also power and top speed was reduced to about 25%. Later on I found that one of the three power kables for the motor melted. No the cable but the jack. So only two of three phase were connected. But after fixing this problem it still does not work. I consumes power, but the moter does not move at all. But the motor makes some sounds. I fear I broke the motor (maybe overheating)?
I checked the hall sensor. All three switch between 0v and 5v if moving the motor. So I guess thats not the problem.

Here is a video of the current problem:
https://youtu.be/BhWiWb2XdHM

Any Ideas? Did I melt one of the motor coils?

cheers
Timo
 
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Those motors are not too difficult to open up for inspection. If you have a look inside, you'll see and smell right away if you've overheated it.

Are you driving the motor above its rating?
 
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Hi,
no, max input is 2450w with a 60v battery. But it gets hot if running this current for several minutes. Normally I check by hand the temperature of the motor. If it's too hot to touch I let it cool down. Normally the hall sensory overheat first - but I am not sure. I will open it up and post some pictures.
 
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TS81 said:
no, max input is 2450w with a 60v battery. But it gets hot if running this current for several minutes. Normally I check by hand the temperature of the motor. If it's too hot to touch I let it cool down. Normally the hall sensory overheat first - but I am not sure. I will open it up and post some pictures.
Click to expand...

If you have to replace Hall sensors, try to get the pre-assembled boards from Cyclone. It's a much easier job that way. However, note that early production versions placed the sensors at a different spacing than recent versions. The older ones don't use a PCB to keep everything in place.
 
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Hi,

I managed to open the motor. It looks ok to me. There are some small black spots. I don't know if that means anything. Instead of posting several photos I made a 4K-Video of the motor. What do you think about it?

https://youtu.be/nTHF-tGoBQQ

cheers
Timo
 
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Maybe measuring the resistance between the 3 phases can give some insight ? They should be more and less all equal.
 
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I would check continuity between phases, sounds like one or more phases got hot enough to melt insulation causing a short. Motor looks fairly clean but there is slight burning in some spots. its the smell we need to confirm this
 
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I don't notice any smell. It smells like elektroniks. No really burned. But what is that black ash (last photo)

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg


The dark spots seem to be ok. Nothink burned through.

The resistance of all 3 phases is 0.1 Ohm. All of them. No matter which direction. Is that normal for such a motor?

When the problem appeared I was still able to drive home. But only on 2 phases. Later on I noticed the cable to one phase (outside of motor) was disconnected (melted on one spot). I guess this is the phase with the problem. I reconnected the phase and now the problem shows as in my first post. But this means two of three phases should be good. But why 0.1 Ohm?
 
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Late response, but the resistance between phases looks ok. I do not have that much experience to say what that black stuff is.

Everything looks ok, but something isn't good, otherwise the motor should work fine.

Do you have the possibility to read out the phase current ? to compare them to each other, or swap out things like controller or motor ?

Also question to other members, could it be the motor controller ? If you look at the first video it doesn't do much.

You say it still works on 2 phase, maybe you can change some phase of the motor controller to check if that phase whom the cable was burned is still ok.
 
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Hi, thanks for the reply.
Unfortunatly I do not have the possibility to swap controller/motor. I have only this bike, nothing else. Also I don't have a buddy with a similar bike around.
Your idea is good. I will swap phases and play around with the cables a bit more to eliminate most sources of errors.
 
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The only way your phases are changed if you did when you fixed the connector. Would check your wiring real good and the connectors for any issues. If your hall sensors are still good it's most likely the controller. But would not assume that until you know the wiring and connectors are good. Battery ok no issues with that?

y TS81 » Oct 14 2021 2:50am

Hi, thanks for the reply.
Unfortunatly I do not have the possibility to swap controller/motor. I have only this bike, nothing else. Also I don't have a buddy with a similar bike around.
Your idea is good. I will swap phases and play around with the cables a bit more to eliminate most sources of errors.
Click to expand...
 
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OK, I checked all the wires. Also I checked the hall sensors again. It seems there is a problem with one of the hall sensors after all.
Does anybody have the specifications of the hall sensors? I need to buy a new sensor but I don't know the exact type. The whole board seems not to be available any more. So I have to buy the sensor itself.
 
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The hall sensor should have a number on it. Maybe real hard to read/or see but should be there. The other option would be to change out all three to stay with a matched set.

Can not recommend hall sensors, would need to read back to see the best options.
 
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Hi,
thanks. I am going to try thouse: https://www.ebay.de/itm/324242161066?hash=item4b7e56bdaa:g:X5oAAOSwL~BbP8DD
Do you thinks they match?
cheers
Timo
 
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Don't want to say. Think they are bipolar. If you get the Honeywell SS41F or SS41. You will be good. Have been looking for your part number. Getting a cheap knock of you don't know what you are getting. Try to stick with the Honeywell's

Was worried about the F but it looks ok to use.
 
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