Rectifier Huawei R4850G2 48V 42~58V 3000w

there are two types of R4850G2 (in my experience), the one I modified is slightly different then others i had, all of the others are similar, following pic is of other ones, these one have this abnormal thing that without load fan spins really fast and under load fan become normal. and the one which i modified doesn't have this issue, seems like they have fixed it. also there are many changes on the board.

older version:
KRCB7483.JPG

new one
new one.jpeg
 
I have only one PSU (new version) which is working, other one old version died when accidently switch wire touched AC input, if I found another new version PSU, i will try the following mod that I'm sharing here. I found it on a Chinese website and mod can be translated with google image translator (with patience). but with this mod, power supply current and voltage might be adjustable without can bus module.
link to original website:

https://www.znds.com/tv-1170402-1-1.html

modification is for new type of board (as i mentioned earlier, there are two types of this psu)
bboard.jpg

photo of mod:
Modification.jpg
 
Hi everyone. Thank you for all this useful information regarding the R4850G2. I have purchased one for myself, and have stumbled upon a potential problem.

My unit get really hot when I turned it on without any load on the output. It seems to be getting so hot, I fear it will burn out if left alone like that. The voltage output was strangely at 57 volts, though seller claimed it had never been used before.

What I would like to know is this: Is it normal for this unit to dump induction into heat, or whatever, when it has no load? Or would it seem like it's damaged?
Nothing popped when I turned it on, but I ear it might within 10 minutes?

Anyone here who experienced the same?

Kind regards from Denmark
 
Mr. Who said:
Hi everyone. Thank you for all this useful information regarding the R4850G2. I have purchased one for myself, and have stumbled upon a potential problem.

My unit get really hot when I turned it on without any load on the output. It seems to be getting so hot, I fear it will burn out if left alone like that. The voltage output was strangely at 57 volts, though seller claimed it had never been used before.

What I would like to know is this: Is it normal for this unit to dump induction into heat, or whatever, when it has no load? Or would it seem like it's damaged?
Nothing popped when I turned it on, but I ear it might within 10 minutes?

Anyone here who experienced the same?

Kind regards from Denmark

No, this is absolutely not normal. I have the same problem myself except with a R4875G1. I never found a fix so I ended up using my R4850G2. If your R4850G2 suffers from this problem get another one.
 
Darren2018 said:
No, this is absolutely not normal. I have the same problem myself except with a R4875G1. I never found a fix so I ended up using my R4850G2. If your R4850G2 suffers from this problem get another one.

Just to be sure. You experience overheating problems when there is nothing at all connected, not as in something connected but not being utilized/ standby, but actual nothing at all connected?

If so. Damn... Waste of money... :(
 
Mr. Who said:
Darren2018 said:
No, this is absolutely not normal. I have the same problem myself except with a R4875G1. I never found a fix so I ended up using my R4850G2. If your R4850G2 suffers from this problem get another one.

Just to be sure. You experience overheating problems when there is nothing at all connected, not as in something connected but not being utilized/ standby, but actual nothing at all connected?

If so. Damn... Waste of money... :(

Really what I am saying is that it isn't normal for the rectifier to heat up when not loaded with a sufficient load that would normally generate that amount of heat. My R4875G1 heats up beyond 60c within just a few mins with a 250W load which is not normal. When compared to my R4850G2 under the same load and at the same output voltage the R4850G2 is completely cool. Also I noticed that the fan on my G1 makes no attempt to spin up despite the temperatures being close to the threshold for throttling. Inefficiency is one thing but the heat that my G1 generates is just not anywhere close to normal. 2W, 20W, 200W or 2000W makes no difference my G1 still gets extremely toasty in just a few mins. The problem with my G1 is not identical to yours as it doesn't get hot without some sort of load but I can tell you with absolute certainty that it is not supposed to be like that.
 
Darren2018 said:
...I can tell you with absolute certainty that it is not supposed to be like that.

I tried to turn it on today for some testing and it didn't even "boot up". So I think it's safe to say, that it's faulty at this point. :shock:

These things aren't cheap to import into the EU.
 
celioregoli said:
has anyone understand out how to raise the maximum voltage? I need 75v
this is my electric 106 project.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7Ph1hQFYyCydSPNZ9
I want to make a three-phase charger to connect to the 22kw columns. I want to use 6 huawei rectifier. I would like to change them to 75v to put 3 in series and make 225v. And three more in parallel to have double the current. When I find a 11kw column with orion2 bms with the canbus it lowers the current. I just have to understand the modification to get 75v.
Or I could connect 6 , 41v rectifier in series and do the 246v and with some diodes in series I lower the voltage due to the drop of 0.7v for each diode, there are 12, I put 24. what do you recommend?
Mr.: Huawei R24050G1 plus Bluetooth control module is more suitable for your needs.
IMG_20211106_004135.jpg

Huawei R24050G1 is a high-efficiency, high-power density AC-DC rectifier module that supports three-phase voltage input from 260V AC to 530V AC, a rated output of 270V DC, and an output power of 15kW. The rectifier module adopts an isolated CAN communication interface, and the communication with the monitoring module adopts the CAN communication protocol. Through the monitoring module, the rectifier module can realize functions such as voltage regulation, current limiting, and single-module switching.

? Efficiency ≥ 97%
? Input voltage range 260~530Vac
? Operating temperature range -10~65°C
? Total harmonic distortion (THD) ≤ 5%
? Support hot swap function
? Fully digital control
? Support CAN bus communication function
? Support voltage regulation, current limiting, current sharing functions
? Meet RoHS requirements
? Obtained TUV, CE and Thiel certification

Product category R24050G1

Basic index
Size 206mm (width), 470mm (depth), 83mm (height)
Weight ≤12kg
Cooling mode: built-in fan, wind out after forward wind
Input characteristics
Input voltage 260~530 Vac
Rated voltage 380Vac / 480Vac
Input frequency 40~70Hz, rated value: 50Hz/60Hz
Rated input current ≤33A
Power factor ≥0.99 (25°C, full load)
THD ≤ 5% (50%-100% load)
Output characteristics
Output voltage 200 – 290 Vdc, rated value: 270 Vdc
Output Power
15kW(304 Vac~530Vac); 7.5~15kW(260Vac~304Vac linear derating)
Environmental indicators
Working temperature -10°C~65°C
Storage temperature -40°C~75°C (without packaging)
Relative humidity 5%~95% (non-condensing)
Altitude change
≤4000m (the high temperature derating under the operating environment conditions when 3000~4000m is used, every 200m increase will reduce 1°C)
Protection characteristics
Input overvoltage protection 530~550 Vac
Input undervoltage protection ≤ 260 Vac
Output overvoltage protection
297.5-302.5 Vac (1. When the internal fault is overvoltage, the module is locked; 2. When the external output voltage is within the protection point, the module works normally)
Output short circuit protection
Long-term short-circuit, automatic recovery after the short-circuit disappears; after the short-circuit> 10s, the module performs short-circuit protection in a period of 16s
Over temperature protection ≥ 65°C start-up protection, ≤ 60°C self-recovery
Reliability index
MTBF 450,000 hours (T=40°C, rated input, full load output)
Noise index
≤ 55dB (T=25°C, phase voltage Vin=220 Vac or 230 Vac, full load output)
 
Thanks for allowing me into the forum. After skimming many posts I have not yet found if the R4850G2 can be modified to go beyond 58V. Actually I need 65V (or 67V) to charge my 16S - 600A lithium pack. If it can't, my plan is to use 48V setting and a number of CC boost converters. The drawback here is lower efficiency (0,94*0,94).
All comments are welcome :)
 
How about, Don't.

Get the charger for the volts and amps you need. Save up if you need to.

futzing around with converters is not a good use of time, unreliable, too frail a solution
 
Hors said:
Thanks for allowing me into the forum. After skimming many posts I have not yet found if the R4850G2 can be modified to go beyond 58V. Actually I need 65V (or 67V) to charge my 16S - 600A lithium pack. If it can't, my plan is to use 48V setting and a number of CC boost converters. The drawback here is lower efficiency (0,94*0,94).
All comments are welcome :)

It sure can, modified units that are adjustable up to 120v is available on aliexpress.
How it is done has not been shown here on the forum as far as I know.
 
Hors said:
Thanks for allowing me into the forum. After skimming many posts I have not yet found if the R4850G2 can be modified to go beyond 58V. Actually I need 65V (or 67V) to charge my 16S - 600A lithium pack. If it can't, my plan is to use 48V setting and a number of CC boost converters. The drawback here is lower efficiency (0,94*0,94).
All comments are welcome :)

IMG_4265.JPG
IMG_4372.JPG
IMG_4429.JPG
IMG_4996.JPG
IMG_4997.JPG

I made fast charger from this power supply, to charger 36v , 48v, 60v and 72v batteries - https://youtu.be/YFtxjgEPIoc
 
Hi ,
I have 2 x R4850G2 and would like to operate them in series (56 V / 100A for battery charging), is that just possible?

+ to + and - to -?

Are the housings allowed to touch? (220V with earthing)

I actually think the Can solution with the ESP32 is quite good, I'm absolutely new in the field, but can the devices be controlled at the same time?
Basically it would be interesting to know if I tell the Can Bus 56Volt whether both devices will take over. (Online mode)

Do I write in the Can Bus 20A .... will 40A come out? (20 from each PSU?)

How does the power supply react to an input current limitation of 220V 10A e.g. does it regulate the set 100Ampere down itself in order to run stable? (is then estimated at 40A / 2x 20) Has anyone ever tested that?


greeting
 
J’y to get 100A it’s on // I gues
Normally you could but psu are not parameters to 56v from factory
 
Hi, yes, I am aware that the power supplies do not offer 56 volts in the delivery state (delivery state 53.5 volts), so I would like to use the BotoXbz code to set the Can Bus offline to 56 volts.

The actual purpose should be (charger) at home with 56V and 40A on a 220V (16A) limited to 10A Schuko socket,
and on the go (type 2 socket (32A) single-phase, 2 x 56V and 2x 50A charging voltage to use. (Fast Charge)

Since I still have an adjustable wall charger (Type2 adjustable 220v / 6A / 8A / 10A / 13A / 16A) ....

I asked myself, what do the power packs do when the input voltage is limited to 10A, do they regulate themselves down, or do they switch to fault?
 
You can only limit the output current to Reduce Input power.
If your socket is fused with 10A the fuse will trip.
 
Hey guys,

Currently looking for a power supply for charging my 20s/72v battery through one of my Nucular controllers. Sort of set on the Eltek Flatpack2 but haven't made a final decision. There was a brief discussion (with very little details) on the Nucular telegram chat a while ago where someone tried using this Huawei R4850G2 and was having issues. Does or has anyone used or know for sure if these units will work with Nucular controller converter mode? With the Flatpack2 (or really any power supply) there is no need for voltage or current manipulation/regulation because the controller in converter mode regulates the current and steps up the voltage. The only limitation is that the power supply voltage needs to be lower than the battery voltage at any/all state of charge so the motor phase can do it's job of "stepping up" the voltage.
Any info regarding this Rectifier unit and Nucular converter mode would be appreciated!
 
As I understood NUCULAR charging mode work as step up, but instead external coil use motor. So if power from rectifier is bigger than needed power for NUCULAR charging then all must be ok. I use Huawei R4850S1 and work perfectly for direct charging 12s liion battery with CC and CV mode.

IMG_20210930_192153.jpg
IMG_20210907_171544.jpg
IMG_20211121_094449.jpg
 
R4850S1_ said:
As I understood NUCULAR charging mode work as step up, but instead external coil use motor. So if power from rectifier is bigger than needed power for NUCULAR charging then all must be ok. I use Huawei R4850S1 and work perfectly for direct charging 12s liion battery with CC and CV mode.

IMG_20210930_192153.jpg
IMG_20210907_171544.jpg
IMG_20211121_094449.jpg

Thanks is for the reply. Yes, Nucular acts as a step up and uses one of the motor phases as the "coil" on the positive line.
From my understanding, Adaptto had a similar function but a separate coil was needed. Somehow the Nucular guys figure out how to use a phase winding as the coil.
I know for sure the Eltek Flatpack2 Rectifiers work perfectly but the "S" model sometimes requires a capacitor on the output line. I was wondering if the R4850G2 would need a similar type of modification. Something about the Rectifier not outputting more than 1A without the capacitor. I guess it has something to do with the type of PCB in the Rectifier being used.
So, I'm still not sure if the Huawei would be suitable/usable for Nucular charge mode. And if so, what (if any) mods are required. Again, in theory..it should absolutely work. In real life usage, still unsure.
I would really like to hear from anyone who has used or tried to use the R4850G2 with Nucular converter mode.
Sorry if this is slightly off topic but wasn't sure where else to ask.
 
Hi friends, is it normal for the R4850G2 to make extreme noise (fans at full speed) when there is no load connected? I have 2 units, one adjusted to 48v by software and another at factory voltage. Both start with fans at low speed, and after some seconds, they increase fan speed to the max speed.

I checked with a thermal camera and touched it and it's very cold. The hottest spot was 29c.

Edit: Tested today and the problem seems to happen only when the PSU is powered by 120AC. Plugged it into a 220AC outlet and the noise is very low.

Edit 2: Did a bunch of tests now (with no load connected) and the following things increase the noise:
- reduce output voltage via CANbus
- reduce the input voltage of the PSU

Reduces the max output current via CANbus seems to doesn't interfere with noise.
 
Problem with startup- with no solution yet:
I have R4850G2 that automatically starts operating WITHOUT having to connect START PINS to GROUND. After reading previous posts, I conclude this is not normal because START PINS must be grounded, otherwise the unit will not power on. I want to be able to power-on and power-off the unit using a simple toggle switch, however for my unit this is not possible.

Question: Does anyone know if the start condition can be changed using CANBUS command, or some other method? I measured DC voltage on both START PIN wires which was +3.0vdc on one of the wires, and +2vdc on the other wire. Shorting both wires to NEGATIVE DC terminal makes no difference or change, and connecting both wires together makes no difference or change. Not sure what to do and I do not want to add a relay, MOSFET or 240v power switch.

Photo of START PINS in link below
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mmmcllxNknK9ongGl-4qIpKobbPKP-75/view?usp=sharing
 
OhmSchool said:
Problem with startup- with no solution yet:
I have R4850G2 that automatically starts operating WITHOUT having to connect START PINS to GROUND. After reading previous posts, I conclude this is not normal because START PINS must be grounded, otherwise the unit will not power on. I want to be able to power-on and power-off the unit using a simple toggle switch, however for my unit this is not possible.

Question: Does anyone know if the start condition can be changed using CANBUS command, or some other method? I measured DC voltage on both START PIN wires which was +3.0vdc on one of the wires, and +2vdc on the other wire. Shorting both wires to NEGATIVE DC terminal makes no difference or change, and connecting both wires together makes no difference or change. Not sure what to do and I do not want to add a relay, MOSFET or 240v power switch.

Photo of START PINS in link below
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mmmcllxNknK9ongGl-4qIpKobbPKP-75/view?usp=sharing

Are you using this kind of adapters?
16811297081665765530.jpg

My R4850G2 auto-starts with this adapter. If I manually wire I have to join the start pins for it to start.
 
jairbj said:
OhmSchool said:
Problem with startup- with no solution yet:
I have R4850G2 that automatically starts operating WITHOUT having to connect START PINS to GROUND. After reading previous posts, I conclude this is not normal because START PINS must be grounded, otherwise the unit will not power on. I want to be able to power-on and power-off the unit using a simple toggle switch, however for my unit this is not possible.

Question: Does anyone know if the start condition can be changed using CANBUS command, or some other method? I measured DC voltage on both START PIN wires which was +3.0vdc on one of the wires, and +2vdc on the other wire. Shorting both wires to NEGATIVE DC terminal makes no difference or change, and connecting both wires together makes no difference or change. Not sure what to do and I do not want to add a relay, MOSFET or 240v power switch.

Photo of START PINS in link below
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mmmcllxNknK9ongGl-4qIpKobbPKP-75/view?usp=sharing

Are you using this kind of adapters?
16811297081665765530.jpg

My R4850G2 auto-starts with this adapter. If I manually wire I have to join the start pins for it to start.

Yes, that is the adapter I am using on R4850G2. Shorting the START PINS to ground, or shorting the 2 PINS to each other, or leaving both PINS OPEN do not create any change to the power supply startup sequence. The power supply starts when AC Voltage is applied, however I would rather have the power supply NOT START until START PINS are engaged/enabled. Trouble is, I it seems the START PINS are not functioning, or perhaps were disabled by some type of CANBUS programming activity from the Huawei factor. I have confirmed correct continuity from START PINS to the copper pads on PCB to power supply, so I know there is good electrical connections. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong?

I thought about trying to apply +5V pullup voltage to the START PINS instead of grounding the START PIN, however that is only a wild guess, and I was hoping someone from this forum would have a better suggestion.
 
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