New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
So sad as TSDZ2 is such important technology for ebikes, Bafang lags behind and decided to make only available the torque sensor on expensive models (integrated motor).Wapous said:
We really need accessible technology, and not locked one that is only to protect the business models of expensive brands.
I really hope we can keep buying TSDZ2. I just built a bigger display, with the same size OLED display as SW102, that works for TSDZ2 but since the firmware and hardware are OpenSource and DIY, it is future prof that can be adapted for future motors:
gfmoore
100 W
I doubt they'll stop making motors. Far too much money in them. TSDZ3 (or is it 4!) 
Woody100DK
1 µW
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2021
- Messages
- 2
I've decided to upgrade my Winther Kangaroo Luxe Cargo bike with a TSDZ2 250W 36V coaster brake model with a 48V battery and XH18 display. I intend to flash it with emmebrusas 20.1c later on. I have a couple of questions and doubts which I was hoping anybody could help me with:
1. Does anybody know of an upgrade to the Winther Kangaroo Luxe with a TSDZ2?
2. Originally I had planned to install the 350W motor but that would mean it wasn't road legal in Denmark. I have read that the only difference between the different models (250W, 350W, 500W) is a setting and nothing to do with any electrical components, is that correct?
In that case i could buy the 250W and upgrade if desired.
3. I have read on a forum that it's best to combine the 36V motor with a 48V battery as that gives it more power, is that correct?
4. Does it make sense to fit it with a hand break sensor since i have a coaster brake on it? It's a hydraulic brake. Is it even possible with the XH18?
5. The battery would be placed app. 1,5m from the motor, that shouldn't be a problem correct?
6. I would like to hear if anybody sees an issue with mounting it on the frame? I'll attach some pictures.
7. Can anybody confirm that emmebrusas OSF works with a coaster brake motor?
I appreciate all the feedback and advice I can ge
1. Does anybody know of an upgrade to the Winther Kangaroo Luxe with a TSDZ2?
2. Originally I had planned to install the 350W motor but that would mean it wasn't road legal in Denmark. I have read that the only difference between the different models (250W, 350W, 500W) is a setting and nothing to do with any electrical components, is that correct?
In that case i could buy the 250W and upgrade if desired.
3. I have read on a forum that it's best to combine the 36V motor with a 48V battery as that gives it more power, is that correct?
4. Does it make sense to fit it with a hand break sensor since i have a coaster brake on it? It's a hydraulic brake. Is it even possible with the XH18?
5. The battery would be placed app. 1,5m from the motor, that shouldn't be a problem correct?
6. I would like to hear if anybody sees an issue with mounting it on the frame? I'll attach some pictures.
7. Can anybody confirm that emmebrusas OSF works with a coaster brake motor?
I appreciate all the feedback and advice I can ge
Woody100DK said:
36v motor with 48v battery gives higher cadence (beyond 80 rpm or so), so yes, it gives higher power, but only when you pedal fast. Torque remains the same, just that you can pedal faster and still have torque from the motor (IIRC). If you pedal slower and want high power, IMO you should get a 48v motor with 48v battery. Out of the factory, only 36v motor is available with 250w rating - using 48v battery means that you'll have to pedal fast to get that additional power. 48v motor is only available with 500w/750w rating I think. Stock firmware will refuse to work with "wrong" voltage, you need to flash opensource firmware immediately to use this "mismatched" combination. Opensource firmware allows you to set power limit, so you can put 250w limit and theoretically make it road legal.
Woody100DK said:
no problem - just need to make / solder a wire extension.
Hello everyone.
Not sure this has been solved over the last months (I have a huuuge backlog on this thread).. but today I sketched a cap for the second plug of the speed sensor, that remains exposed to environment.. the black tape does not last long so I decided to 3D print my own solution.
Let me share it with you in case you need a working solution to protect the exposed plug, of course you need a 3D printer.
Casainho, please see if you want to put the STL in the main wiki for wider audience.
Thanks
View attachment Cap speed sensor cable TSDZ2.zip
Not sure this has been solved over the last months (I have a huuuge backlog on this thread).. but today I sketched a cap for the second plug of the speed sensor, that remains exposed to environment.. the black tape does not last long so I decided to 3D print my own solution.
Let me share it with you in case you need a working solution to protect the exposed plug, of course you need a 3D printer.
Casainho, please see if you want to put the STL in the main wiki for wider audience.
Thanks
View attachment Cap speed sensor cable TSDZ2.zip
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
I just installed the second unit of the DIY OpenSource display on my mini cargo bike with TSDZ2:
Done, at the end of main page.thineight said:casainho said:
I'm afraid I'm not able to do that, I'm not that skilled with github.
Sorry, can you do that in the proper section?
Te cap fits with a "click", but perhaps printed at 99% scale gives a tighter fit.
feyris
100 mW
Woody100DK said:
2: You can order any power. I added a 250W sticker on mine just in case.
4: No need to add a hand break sensor for you. You may adapt the sensor to any moving part on the coaster brake, not sure how it's work.
5: no pb.
6: verify you can reroute the black cable to upper the pedals axe, it may interfere with the motor here.
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
Pictures of my 5 months old baby, while we do our daily ride on the mini cargo bike with TSDZ2 -- sleeping at the end.
I am being testing the display and the screen data on the display, is almost invisible against the sunlight - my only hope is that this OLED displays get better over time.
I am being testing the display and the screen data on the display, is almost invisible against the sunlight - my only hope is that this OLED displays get better over time.
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
I am updating the website documentation and I am proud of what we got so far. I am all for repairing and reusing and that are strong advantages for me, reusing the knowledge, technology and electronic components over different devices and in time, making this future prof.
https://opensourceebike.github.io/
https://opensourceebike.github.io/
Hi guys,i replaced my old tsdz2 for a new one after riding to long with shitty bearings, damaging the pass ant torque sensors on the way.
After about 1000km the new motor somtimes suddenly stops supporting making a strange noise as if it runs freely, (could it be running backwards?) trembling a little also and then just stops completely. At first stop and start pedaling was enough to make it go again but its getting worse. Tried putting it in a low gear pedaling fast today and it started to work again but that coold be coincidental. Changed my old vlcd5 for the new one but that doesn’t help. Before i take the whole thing apart, does anybody has a clue whats going on here.
After about 1000km the new motor somtimes suddenly stops supporting making a strange noise as if it runs freely, (could it be running backwards?) trembling a little also and then just stops completely. At first stop and start pedaling was enough to make it go again but its getting worse. Tried putting it in a low gear pedaling fast today and it started to work again but that coold be coincidental. Changed my old vlcd5 for the new one but that doesn’t help. Before i take the whole thing apart, does anybody has a clue whats going on here.
Ofcourse it isn't, because you have dismantled the wrong side of the motor for the first 7 steps.gordone said:
The side you are showing are the optional last two pictures on the "how to" step 8, to illustrate a bit more cooling by shortening the plastic cover.
I really ask myself, if it is wise that you do such a modification.
There are easier methodes to improve the heat dissipation by just filling the gap between motor and case cover with conductive pads as Wpenner did here.
Hello, in the github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki I can`t find the firmware for the motor anymore. I want to run the motor with the SW102 display but the link https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases says error 404!
LeftCoastNurd
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2019
- Messages
- 127
looks like there's updated SW102 stuff here,
https://github.com/anszom/SW102_LCD
https://github.com/anszom/SW102_LCD
casainho said:Yes, the SW102 is not supported anymore. The only display is this OpenSource one: https://opensourceebike.github.io/guihei said:
If you really prefer SW102, then look at the others threads that have firmware for it.
I have already flashed the SW102 display to version 0.19.11, I just need the firmware for the Motor. Also in the aktuell projekt with the new Display the motor firmware is not available. (I think the motor software hasn't changed)
