N.E.S.E. the no solder module

I like it and it's not for everyone. Keep finding uses for your modules and show them to people. Think you have a bright future.
Would like to build my next battery from your modules but it's so big the cost is more than the rest. I'm thinking for the smaller projects they would be a great fit. Have rechargeable bike lights and solar lights in the yard that need battery replacements. Were are talking about 1p so a dual cell module made to be water resistant (not water proof) would be great. I like small rechargeable's but the cells are to small and always need to damage them to access the battery.
 
Brilliant for sure!
You've proved to be the most reliable method, with none of the caveates other designs exhibit.
 
Hi, looking into making my next battery using this design, but a few questions that I have not found an answer for:

1) On thingverse the 21700 module has a "normal" and a v2 design, what is the difference?
2) On your webpage when ordering the tabs, you can order "normal" and "shallow" once again what is the difference?
3) when building a 13s3p (21700) battery, when ordering tabs on your website, if I add text that it is a 3p and order 13 sets of the tabs, that should be enough for the whole pack?

Thank you for your time and your great work.
 
pomah said:
Hi, looking into making my next battery using this design, but a few questions that I have not found an answer for:

1) On thingverse the 21700 module has a "normal" and a v2 design, what is the difference?
2) On your webpage when ordering the tabs, you can order "normal" and "shallow" once again what is the difference?
3) when building a 13s3p (21700) battery, when ordering tabs on your website, if I add text that it is a 3p and order 13 sets of the tabs, that should be enough for the whole pack?

Thank you for your time and your great work.

Hi,
1. V2 is most recent design. You can get it here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/18650/creations
2. Normal and shallow reffers to bolts and how much they stick out off enclosure. For exact numbers check Resources on the website. Normal is hex bolt with phillips, spring and flat washers attached, shallow is allen type with serrated washer. See attached photo.
3. 13 sets can build you 2 batteries, 3P and 5P. Tabs are 8P, double ended. You can make 13S out of 7 tab sets but you need to order 6 more fixing sets.

Fljoy6j.jpg
 
Cool. Time for another kit or two.
 
agniusm said:
pomah said:
Hi, looking into making my next battery using this design, but a few questions that I have not found an answer for:

1) On thingverse the 21700 module has a "normal" and a v2 design, what is the difference?
2) On your webpage when ordering the tabs, you can order "normal" and "shallow" once again what is the difference?
3) when building a 13s3p (21700) battery, when ordering tabs on your website, if I add text that it is a 3p and order 13 sets of the tabs, that should be enough for the whole pack?

Thank you for your time and your great work.

Hi,
1. V2 is most recent design. You can get it here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/18650/creations
2. Normal and shallow reffers to bolts and how much they stick out off enclosure. For exact numbers check Resources on the website. Normal is hex bolt with phillips, spring and flat washers attached, shallow is allen type with serrated washer. See attached photo.
3. 13 sets can build you 2 batteries, 3P and 5P. Tabs are 8P, double ended. You can make 13S out of 7 tab sets but you need to order 6 more fixing sets.

Fljoy6j.jpg

Thank you, had to read the answer to 3 a few times before I got it, had to look at the pictures on your website :)
I'll make an order while they will be on sale, so happy to finally jump on this, have been waiting for my current battery to "die" on me so I could motivate the investment into this.

Thank you for your answers
 
Hi, I have some issues printing these modules on a Ender v3 using the "Cura" slicer.

Current settings I use are attached to this post.

I am gratefull for all suggestion from someone with more experience printing these
 

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For anyone wondering, the issue seems to have been with the "white" plastic, same settings worked like a charm on a black PETG role but still wont work for two different types of white PETG. Not sure why, I just read that other people have issues with "white" PETG.

One module is printed and assembled looking forward to finishing my 13s pack :)
 
Are there any good 26650's out there to use the 26650 kit with at this point?

I always liked the idea of using big honkin' cells and think that this would be a great setup with them.
 
tomjasz said:

hi, im interested in pictures also. thinking or seeing if i should try this venture for those 60v speed days.
 
john61ct said:
For LFP

A123 / Lithium Werks

ANR26650M1B

Apparently Liitokala / VariCore not shabby

Are you using the NESE kit or just trolling this thread too.
 
neptronix said:
Are there any good 26650's out there to use the 26650 kit with at this point?

I always liked the idea of using big honkin' cells and think that this would be a great setup with them.
 
neptronix said:
Are there any good 26650's out there to use the 26650 kit with at this point?

I always liked the idea of using big honkin' cells and think that this would be a great setup with them.

Not many 26650 cells. There are few 4.2V cells but i have no idea how they perform. One of them is 15A Keeppower IMR26650, 5500mAh.
 
I originally bought some of these last year because I was looking at the cost of these vs a kWeld, and the total cost would have been similar. I already had a 3d printer, and had bought 10kg of PETG for $100 a while back, so those were sunk costs. Each roll printed about 11-12 8p cases.

I'm so glad I went with these because they are so adjustable. I currently have a 13s8p primary pack with that I use for my recumbent, and a second 16s8p pack for my cargo bike that'll I'll also split down to 4x4s8p to get a 12v battery for my trolling motor when I get out on the water. My recumbent is also my commuter, and I commute 18 miles each way, so I've run quite a bit of power through the pack over the past year.

The flexibility also lets me easily try different things. I have a heated 12V jacket that is normally plugged into a vehicle 12V system. I took four of my 8p packs, slipped them into a clipboard case, and had a portable power source I could slide into my backpack. I don't need a dedicated battery for something like that, but it's easy to grab a few packs and reconfigure for a weekend project with this system. Afterwards, I could return the packs to my ebike.

The 8p height fits perfectly in the metal 0.50 caliber ammo cans, and you can fit 13s in a single column, or 21s in 3 rows of 7, or whatever you want. I also experimented with the 4x4 vinyl fenceposts, and 4p packs fit into those pretty nicely. 3d print the end caps, and you can make nice compact booster packs that you can slot into your bike if you're going on a longer ride.

My controllers can take up to 21s, so the NESE system let me try different voltages for a while, and easily adjust if it was too much or not enough voltage without having to tear apart the entire battery.

I'm very much a Grin fan, and I think agniusm's battery system is an excellent complement to all the Grin hardware. Both just work, they're not something you have to worry about. However, I think agniusm's system is how Grin should have built their LiGo packs (1s8p instead of 10s1p), because it's just so flexible. Especially when compared to the LiGo system, NESE modules that cost around $10 plus batteries (new would be ~$3/cell, reclaimed ~$1/cell) are an amazing bargain.

I picked up more batteries over the course of this year with the hope the winter sale would return (I'm in the US, so the sale basically gives me free shipping). Time to order more!
 
alexayala.ut said:
I originally bought some of these last year because I was looking at the cost of these vs a kWeld, and the total cost would have been similar. I already had a 3d printer, and had bought 10kg of PETG for $100 a while back, so those were sunk costs. Each roll printed about 11-12 8p cases.

I'm so glad I went with these because they are so adjustable. I currently have a 13s8p primary pack with that I use for my recumbent, and a second 16s8p pack for my cargo bike that'll I'll also split down to 4x4s8p to get a 12v battery for my trolling motor when I get out on the water. My recumbent is also my commuter, and I commute 18 miles each way, so I've run quite a bit of power through the pack over the past year.

The flexibility also lets me easily try different things. I have a heated 12V jacket that is normally plugged into a vehicle 12V system. I took four of my 8p packs, slipped them into a clipboard case, and had a portable power source I could slide into my backpack. I don't need a dedicated battery for something like that, but it's easy to grab a few packs and reconfigure for a weekend project with this system. Afterwards, I could return the packs to my ebike.

The 8p height fits perfectly in the metal 0.50 caliber ammo cans, and you can fit 13s in a single column, or 21s in 3 rows of 7, or whatever you want. I also experimented with the 4x4 vinyl fenceposts, and 4p packs fit into those pretty nicely. 3d print the end caps, and you can make nice compact booster packs that you can slot into your bike if you're going on a longer ride.

My controllers can take up to 21s, so the NESE system let me try different voltages for a while, and easily adjust if it was too much or not enough voltage without having to tear apart the entire battery.

I'm very much a Grin fan, and I think agniusm's battery system is an excellent complement to all the Grin hardware. Both just work, they're not something you have to worry about. However, I think agniusm's system is how Grin should have built their LiGo packs (1s8p instead of 10s1p), because it's just so flexible. Especially when compared to the LiGo system, NESE modules that cost around $10 plus batteries (new would be ~$3/cell, reclaimed ~$1/cell) are an amazing bargain.

I picked up more batteries over the course of this year with the hope the winter sale would return (I'm in the US, so the sale basically gives me free shipping). Time to order more!

Thank you very much for taking time and sharing your experience. Really helps. Hopefully more people will get to experience battery builds that are quick and enjoyable and if you have 3D printer, accidentally damaged parts are few hours away :)
 
Finished my 13s build using the N.E.S.E modules. I am very happy with the result, seller is great to deal with, answers email and gave support before my purchase on what to order.

The final result is a bit larger than my older welded pack, but this is my last pack that I need to build and I can just rebuild it if something issues would occur with time.


Battery built

BMS wires attached

Test install in custom bike electronics box

All in all I am very happy with choosing the system, the issues I had was with printing the modules (my own fault due to being novice with a 3d printer). With that in hind sight I would just order the complete set through AMtech, the totalt cost is mostly negligible and you know that you will get good printed modules you can start building with.
 
Has anyone ever made a "bigger" Pack using these modules? I am planning a 20s16p pack and would like to use the nese system, I am not sure if they will be able to handle the current I will be needing though (200a continuous, 400a max)
 
Wimbi39 said:
Has anyone ever made a "bigger" Pack using these modules? I am planning a 20s16p pack and would like to use the nese system, I am not sure if they will be able to handle the current I will be needing though (200a continuous, 400a max)
There are some big packs in the wild :)

IMG_3649.JPEG
 
Agniusm that looks like energy storage though, not high current. Would 2 8p modules in parallel be comfortable with 400A output? I am wondering about a pack similar size also.

cheers
Tyler

 
tylerwatts said:
Agniusm that looks like energy storage though, not high current. Would 2 8p modules in parallel be comfortable with 400A output? I am wondering about a pack similar size also.

cheers
Tyler

Hi Tyler, The answer to your question is it depends. It depends on what battery and BMS you are using. The above picture of the green batteries is mine and I was surprised to see it when it showed up in a google search lol. What you see there is 9-15s8p 63v batteries. Soon to be 15 batteries.. I paused building them last year as it was just to hot on the boat coming into summer (I'm a fulltime liveaboard) to keep printing them. Each battery has its own 40 amp BMS that's tied to a huge busbar that you cant see. Each 18650 cell that I'm using has a standard discharge rating of 0.2c which works out to be 590mA. That works out to be .59amps X 8=4.72amps X the 9 batteries = 42.48amps standard discharge. That's 2,676 watts of power without anything breaking a sweat. The maximum output is a totally different story! Maximum discharge current is (2c 5900mA) 5.9amps X 8=47.2amps X 9=424.8amps X 60volts =25,488 watts! The most my system has peaked is 414amps and the BMS's will peak to 540amps for 5s. The system is fully automatic and will simply start the generator if we are pulling more than 5,000 watts for more than 2 minutes. So... yeah.. I guess you could call it both, a energy storage system with high current. Short of spending 10 times as much and buying Battle Born Batteries this was the safest solution for me. The N.E.S.E system is a sound product that has changed everything todo with boating for us.
Lee
 
agniusm said:
Wimbi39 said:
Has anyone ever made a "bigger" Pack using these modules? I am planning a 20s16p pack and would like to use the nese system, I am not sure if they will be able to handle the current I will be needing though (200a continuous, 400a max)
There are some big packs in the wild :)

IMG_3649.JPEG

And its getting bigger! The print time is now down to 3hrs per module 8)
 
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