new eZip motor

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Grin torque arms or custom. Custom are expensive. eBikes.ca isn’t cheap but nice torque arms. No stamped Chinesium.

Well good clean builds are not cheap. That is why all my builds are not good clean builds as I never went the extra mile and ordered good quality parts. Not just torque arms but factory racks and triangle bags instead of wood and milk crates. Still count me in for a few good builds in the future though. I said I would so will. I might have to wait until after I move though.

Wrong nuts will strip or break the threads on the LTO!
Expensive mistake! Not the price of the nuts, the irreparable damage to the expensive LTO!

Lack of patience in finding the proper nuts demonstrates ...

LTOs.png

Not for lack of trying.

The 10 gauge wire I am cutting and using for the series connections does not bend and with the crimp on ring connecters a nut is required on the bottom and one on the top to make it work. That is a lot of nuts.

About a half a dozen trips to hard ware stores. It is Chinas fault not mine. I still don't have what I need and the hardware store closes at 6 PM and I just got up so wont make it today either. They are closed Sunday so the Home Depot 10 miles away is my only option. I am not happy. I hate building batteries. Sick and tired of always running out of what I need.

The connections I did will be permanent. They are tight and will add solder when I get it just to make sure. I bought 50 nuts the wrong size. Two bags. I used the right size or the nuts that fit better first that went all the way down and sandwiched the ring terminals between them so the wrong nuts are on the top. I still need more of the other nuts to finish the other 10S pack.

I guess I have no choice but to drive a gas vehicle all over to Home Depot and Lowes home improvement if they do not have enough or the nuts I need. I am not very happy about it. I do not like driving the van that much. I think that I got the right nuts from True value but they only had 20. That is the problem. I am using 4 for each cell. That is 80 nuts for 40 LTOs and since it is an odd ball size it has been a real hassle as not enough in stock any where.

It might be necessary to make the hole in the "skinnier side" of the dropout plate for the button bolt that secures these to the frame just slightly oversize, so the bolt can "float" in it a tiny tiny bit, to allow the clamping to work normally.

I hope it wont be beyond my mechanical skills. Right now am dealing with these LTOs and no solder. I need to solder the ring terminals. Not a lot of solder but a little on each as they are crimp on and I need to know these connections are good and that the LTOs are built right. NOT questionable like the LIFEPO4 packs so I am dealing with one disaster at a time. I will check those out more later though when I get to it.


Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Good clean builds do not need money thrown at them, curtis can build clean builds at a very affordable, value oriented price.
What is needed is effort and the drive to get things accomplished and finished along with some organisational skills and most of all patience.
 
latecurtis said:
The LTO pack is bolt on ring terminals so the only soldering involved is just a little spot after the crimp connection to make 100% sure there is perfect contact.
Getting heavy wire to solder-"weld" inside crimped connectors will require prolonged substantial heat!
Not the type of heat you want bolted to your LTO batteries?
 
calab said:
Good clean builds do not need money thrown at them, curtis can build clean builds at a very affordable, value oriented price.
What is needed is effort and the drive to get things accomplished and finished along with some organizational skills and most of all patience.
Sadly, he already has multiple 13s4p high output Panasonic pre-made bricks, but is afraid to use them.
2x = 46.8V 12.8Ah =
28mile range at 20mph
14mile range at 30mph
(13"x6"x4.5" 2x combined)
 
Getting heavy wire to solder-"weld" inside crimped connectors will require prolonged substantial heat!
Not the type of heat you want bolted to your LTO batteries?

NO.

The bare wire is long enough that is longer than the crimping part. Solder is after the crimp connection. It is easier to explain with a short video.

The fact is I learned my lesson building batteries. From now on if I do build any more batteries it will be the prismatic cells and will order all the hardware required when I order the cells. This is bull shit.

I drove 10 miles one way twice and at least once a week or so ago so roughly 60 miles for nuts to fit the LTOs. Tonight they only had 6 in the store as they are metric and I needed about 20. I brought one of the LTOs and the guy said I needed to drive another 20 or 30 miles to some special hard ware store or I would ruin the LTOs.

The place he mentioned was not even open. It is a 9 to 5 mom and pop hard ware store. I was not hearing it so looked at some different 5/16" nuts that were not chrome. Even though they will not screw on all the way to the bottom they went on by hand a lot farther then the chrome ones. I got a bunch of those and a $13 box of washers as will be using those instead of the bottom nut.


Then to make matters worse they do not even sell lead solder there. Only lead free so had to buy the lead free. I wont be soldering cells. Just need a little to make sure the ring terminals are connected to the wires. I also bought a $8 roll of gorilla tape at Wall-Mart so now will shoot a video as I want to make it clear that my connections are good. I failed miserably building the LIFEPO4 packs even though they do run and charge. Well I guess that is still a matter of opinion. I know the LIFEPO4 packs will run every e bike I built so far at either 12S or 15S. Performance and range is not the best but could last years and thousands of cycles.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Of course they will run and take a charge but they could hurt your entire pack because some pieces are weak due to damage. You can not tell the health of a pack by the open voltage or by feeling the heat you have to look at the characteristics of the current and voltage with a load one lto at a time which you have not even bothered to do. It is very easy to do if you cared to find out. Find or buy some old toasters and have two meters one to measure voltage and one to measure current

Do you want to learn how to do that?
Here is a primer if you want me to clearly tell you how I did it just ask.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1694992#p1694009
 
Of course they will run and take a charge but they could hurt your entire pack because some pieces are weak due to damage. You can not tell the health of a pack by the open voltage or by feeling the heat you have to look at the characteristics of the current and voltage with a load one lto at a time which you have not even bothered to do. It is very easy to do if you cared to find out. Find or buy some old toasters and have two meters one to measure voltage and one to measure current


I was referring to the LIFEPO4 packs I soldered. (page 294) Not the LTO pack. The LTO pack is bolt on ring terminals so the only soldering involved is just a little spot after the crimp connection to make 100% sure there is perfect contact. They are also brand new so all should be exactly the same. No need to test anything.

The good news is the solder I got does contain lead. I thought is was lead free as all the other solder is they sell there.

The video will show what I mean.

Here is the video of the LTO packs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDxmaI3iM3c

I wish I had a Bluetooth BMS , instead I ordered two 10S active balancers. No way to see the voltage of each cell with that. I just have to hope it works.

If I were to get two 10S Bluetooth BMSs would they work in series. I can not make it a single 20S pack. Way too big and heavy. I must run two 10S in series. I cant physically connect them together but can run and charge together.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I miss typed you should really find out what the real problem is with your lifepo4s do you have any untouched lifepo4s to compare?

The good news is you can put a load on the battery with toasters and oven coils at your workshop desk and see exactly what is happening when a load is applied with different amp loads applied and its really obvious if you have a weak group pair.
 
I miss typed you should really find out what the real problem is with your lifepo4s do you have any untouched lifepo4s to compare?

The good news is you can put a load on the battery with toasters and oven coils at your workshop desk and see exactly what is happening when a load is applied with different amp loads applied and its really obvious if you have a weak group pair.

It would not explain why all cell banks are less than 30% after only 6 miles. Standing voltage is 96 to 99% all 15 cell banks of 5P.

Ending = < 30%. What you are suggesting is one or a pair would = 30% and the rest would be > 50%. That is not the case. Even before I hooked up active balancers all cell banks were < 30% after only 6 miles.

Also I did have a power meter hooked up when going up a hill at full throttle. SAG was 33 to 34V. voltage at zero load = 39V. If I had a Bluetooth BMS I could see how much each cell bank is under heavy discharge. I do know that when pulling > 40 amps the SAG is really noticeable < 30 amps not as much. In fact 12S - LIFEPO4 runs dual Bafang motors each with a 17 amp controller perfect. Also a single Bafang motor. However very little power to the 36V chain drive. 15S - LIFEPO4 ran the 1,800W brushless motor at 25 mph. A 13S - 1,200W - 20 Ah - 18650 lithium ion pack ran the same motor at 28 mph.

My guess is the cells are old and low capacity. They just are NOT 19 Ah. Not even 9 Ah I don't think. I ordered three SLAs to run in parallel for increased performance but are way too heavy to stack on top of the 12S LIFE. I might be able to mount to the bottom bar underneath but only if there is room. Therefore might still order the 25 Ah LIFEPO4 prismatic cells as they will weigh < 1/2 the three SLAs and can stack them on top of my current 12S - LIFE. That should increase performance as well as range.

I am thinking about ordering Bluetooth BMSs and keep the active balancers as well for all my LIFEPO4 batteries as well as the LTOs. However I do not see how that is possible. I really do not feel like soldering anything. Just plugging everything in. All the balance wires are hooked up. How could I accomplish that. I did get some 10S balance plugs with wires. I would jut rather not solder anything unless I have to.

A Bluetooth BMS should show how each cell bank SAGs under load. DA. mentioned testing several times but do not see how anything could work better than a camera in front of a Bluetooth display to record all data while running an e bike. I also bought another power meter but is very complicated to hook up as has a shunt and requires special wiring. Also a small digital cannon pocket camera which I broke and need to order a new one. The camera sun glasses are blurry close up as the video I posted.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Bluetooth bms is a good starting point if you have a bad parallel group it will be obvious, will your bluetooth bms show you all the voltages on one screen or will it rotate through the voltage groupings for each parallel group? the downside is you will be riding your bike and looking down at your display while riding and not knowing what the load current is is it 8a or 15a or 22a a generalized guess is all you have. Unless you are brave and hook up yet another display from your meter to measure total current.

5 months ago you made your first comment about a bluetooth bms, 5 months later still nothing.
Thu Aug 05, 2021 2:48 pm
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&p=1669544&hilit=bluetooth#p1669544
Fri Aug 06, 2021 4:59
pm https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&p=1669713&hilit=bluetooth#p1669713

https://www.thriftstores.net/canton-oh/
Better to just ride by the drop boxes or the back of the thrift stores then buy anything inside the thrift stores.

https://go.harborfreight.com/store/harbor-freight-tools-in-canton-oh-44708/
https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html
mm.jpg

One two slice toaster can pull 7a from the entire battery pack.
One four slice toaster can pull 14a
An oven toaster I have not tried yet
Stove top oven coils I have not tried either

If you want to find out anything more do check out my other thread
Re: Unloaded hub motor spinning to reduce battery voltage
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=114569&p=1695100#p1695100
I am just working on discharging and measuring single 1s and 2s pairings of lithium 18650's in parallel grouping of 1p and 2p but I have done quick little discharge tests of 3.5a on 48v battery. My next step is to work on the 5s2p battery pairings (blocks) to look at the strength and to weed out any of the poor performing or weak batteries which I have already done. And which you should do to.

One example of weak or poor performing batteries was when I had a 2s2p pairing that was stored at 4.08v for a year. I noticed that at a discharge load current of 2a the voltage dropped more fast then a 2s2p pairing that was stored at 3.80v so I took the weak pairing to the battery recycling bin inside home depot exit.

These are the details you want to know that you cant do riding your ebike looking at an expensive bluetooth bms while riding your ebike which is absolutely crazy and insane. If your bluetooth bms stores and logs the data well I doubt you can find a reasonably priced one but its only money.

30% loss after 6 miles means something is wrong, 6 miles at 15wh/mile is 90wh and 30% loss means your real life battery capacity is 270wh but on paper your battery is probably 500-600wh which means you lost half the capacity of your battery which could mean you got ripped off with fake cells or they were damaged in another unmentionable manner.
 
Bluetooth bms is a good starting point if you have a bad parallel group it will be obvious, will your bluetooth bms show you all the voltages on one screen or will it rotate through the voltage groupings for each parallel group? the downside is you will be riding your bike and looking down at your display while riding and not knowing what the load current is is it 8a or 15a or 22a a generalized guess is all you have. Unless you are brave and hook up yet another display from your meter to measure total current.

My old power meter displays watts , volts and current. I just need another Cannon pocket camera. I will mount it in front of the power meter and the Bluetooth app. on my phone. I will use my sun glass camera to show speed and landscape in front of the bike.

The fact is even if I were to find a bad cell bank I do not have any more of those cells and am not ordering any more so as long as they run I might as well run them. I will buy the prismatic cells though which will require bus bars and nuts and ring terminals for the balance wires so will still be soldering but at least wont have to solder the series connections like I just did for the LTOs. Here is the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cppW32RkOPk&t=5s

Tomorrow I will finish the second 10S - LTO pack for 20S running and charging. I have a 15 amp 900W 54.6V charger. Charging voltage will be 2.73V per cell.

30% loss after 6 miles means something is wrong, 6 miles at 15wh/mile is 90wh and 30% loss means your real life battery capacity is 270wh but on paper your battery is probably 500-600wh which means you lost half the capacity of your battery which could mean you got ripped off with fake cells or they were damaged in another unmentionable manner.

I got them from Battery Hookup. I soldered them. It could have damaged them. They were supposed to be brand new military grade over stock. Not sure when they started making 26650 cells but think they could have sat around on a shelf a long time. Not sure if that would make them lose that much capacity though.

The big thing I am concerned with now is the LTOs. There are still two important issues I have yet to address.

1. Portable charging. I was thinking about a luggage cart with wheels and a handle I could strap to a rear rack and place them inside with the 900W charger and wheel it inside somewhere to charge.

2. Anti theft measures. The LTOs were $600+ so do not need them walking away. I need to figure how to lock them to the bike frame. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
Working on my LTOs. I got one 10S pack done. I ran into complications. One of the reasons is the cells being manufactured in China probably. I bought nuts from more than one hard ware store. Some of the nuts were wrong. I had to really torque down on them with a ratchet.
DrkAngel said:
Getting heavy wire to solder-"weld" inside crimped connectors will require prolonged substantial heat!
Not the type of heat you want bolted to your LTO batteries?
latecurtis said:
The LTO pack is bolt on ring terminals so the only soldering involved is just a little spot after the crimp connection to make 100% sure there is perfect contact.
To "weld" you want to heat metals to be welded till solder sucks onto metal like a glove. Piling solder on top of metal obscures proper weld verification, adds excessively prolonged heat and wastes solder.
 
To "weld" you want to heat metals to be welded till solder sucks onto metal like a glove. Piling solder on top of metal obscures proper weld verification, adds excessively prolonged heat and wastes solder.

Yea. I hate soldering. I am glad I am not soldering cells any more. Just wires. Today I will do a search on Y balance connecters as if I want to add a Bluetooth BMS to any of my home built packs I want to NOT have to solder anything. I just want to plug it in. That is another thing I like about the active equalizer/balancer is that I can use it WITH a Bluetooth BMS. It is basically an insurance policy as if one fails the other will work as a back up.

NOTE that as good as the LTO pack might be and as wimpy as the first LIFEPO4 packs I am still building a second 12S and maybe even 15S LIFEPO4 pack to run in parallel with the wimpy pack/packs and will be using both my 10 amp 43.6V charger and my 15 amp 54.6V chargers as the 54.6V will charge the 20S - LTOs as well as 15S - LIFE and the 10 amp 43.6V charger will charge both 12S LIFE in parallel when I am finished so I should be set up nice for all my 36 to 48V needs.

For 60V I will order 4S - LiPo packs to run in series with the power modules which should increase range somewhat and will have plenty of discharge capacity for 45 mph gearing. If anyone has a link to 10S - Y balance connecters and 10S Bluetooth BMSs please post them. I am waiting on my first cup of coffee and am going to google search now.

I also need to solve the issue of theft proofing these batteries. They are too expensive to have someone walk away with them awhile I am in a store or somewhere. They must be locked to the bike frame and I need to double up my bike lock with one of those horse shoe locks.

Thanks.

LC. out.

PS.

I found this but no clue how it can work ?????? I am going back to search.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monitoring-Screen-Lithium-Battery/dp/B087TMZMP6/ref=sr_1_23?gclid=CjwKCAiArOqOBhBmEiwAsgeLmYM13-XfJGwigAgtoe4zyGmm1VOQ8aIZ4XPdUcRMGgDXFHMmN83NAxoCLvMQAvD_BwE&hvadid=390249366369&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1023608&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2724307797075342127&hvtargid=kwd-322932940205&hydadcr=18883_9696171&keywords=bluetooth%2Bbms&qid=1641762776&refinements=p_36%3A1253504011&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-23&th=1



I am a little confused on this item. I thought Bluetooth was a phone app. I like the concept but is too big. I want something I can mount on board. I need to build a dash panel I can bolt to my handle bars. Something the size of a medium size tablet. That is way too big.

OK. I found a 2017 thread I would like to re open. I need to read it to see how far it goes but the guy has the same issues as I do. Cell meters are 1 thru 8. I have two 5 in 1 meters but want a meter that can do 10S. 13S would be great but will settle with 10S.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=88604

by bob_cbr » May 30 2017 8:10am

Hello,

Been using my e-bike for 350km now (Build review be posted soon) and all was good until a full loss of power. It looks like the BMS went and it got me thinking, about my battery.

I've been using a cheap 10s BMS of ebay:
Image

Now, for all I know, the battery could have a fault or the BMS could be a bust. The simple issue is my current setup does not provide me with enough information about the battery health.

My ebike has a LCD display with voltage readout of the whole pack, but I would like:
1. To monitor the 10s in real time. Every meter / Logger seems to be 1-8 cells max.
2. Balance charge a 10s pack with readouts. Is a icharger-1010b the only option on the market. OR
3. Use a better BMS with some kind of indication of its output.

I have active equalizer balancers now for 20S - LTO and up to 15S - LIFE. Two 6S and a 3S. If I order a Bluetooth BMS for all those packs it could set me back $200 or more. All I really want is to plug something in without butchering balance plugs to use two 7S meters.

I just want a meter that I can plug in and will show all the cell voltages. One for all my LIFE and LTO packs. I can zip tie it to my handle bar and stick a mini camera in front of it and record the data so I can keep my eyes on the road.

Please let me know and I will still need Y balance harnesses so my active balancer stays plugged in and do not have to continuedly unplug and plug back in like I was doing with the 6S - LIFE. A simple Y connecter would allow me to just plug in a monitor awhile the active equalizer does its job. Y balance connecters for each pack is way cheaper than a Bluetooth BMS for each pack.

Please let me know and I will keep researching.

Yea. Not getting anywhere.

Even if they made a small simple Bluetooth transmitter that could plug in to a 10S balance plug and I could see all the cell banks on a smart phone or tablet preferably it would work for what I am looking for. I just want to monitor the cell banks and make sure the active balancers are doing their job. It would be way cheaper than five Bluetooth BMSs.

two 6S.

one 3S

two 10S.

possibly a 4S if I build the 4S - LTO pack for 60V.

possibly a 12S if I build a pack from prismatic cells.

possibly a 3S if I want to add 3S prismatic cells for 15S.

Yea. I am getting aggravated. I feel like punching out my lap top. I remember doing this search before.

The 10S balance plug is male and plugs into the female (port with prongs) of the active balancer. I need a female cable on one end and two males on the other so can plug one in the active balancer and the other for a meter to monitor the cell banks

Not only do they not make a frocking 10S meter all the Y balance cables are the opposite. They are all wrong.

frock it. I guess I will just run them the way they are and when the batteries frock up I will throw them in the dumpster. It is not worth the aggravation for even $1,000 worth of batteries.

$600 worth of LTOs and $300 worth of LIFE down the drain.

From now on I will just order packs already built with Bluetooth BMSs installed.

Until then will run what I got until failure.

Thanks.

LC. out..
 
Mixed bag of batteries your putting together who is selling batteries with bluetooth bmses installed?
 
Yea.

I will probably have to solder. I just want to monitor all my cells. I want to put gorilla tape over all my series connections so the balance wires do not touch.

I need the balance plug hooked up to the pack to plug in the active balancer but still be able to test voltage from each cell independently. I don't need a BMS as long as the active balancer is working properly.

If I have to I can solder the Y adapters but would rather order them so I can plug and play. Problem is I cant find them with the plugs I need.

I have a stick of wood already for 6S I built so if I have one low cell can charge at 1S with my 6S - LiPo charger. I can do a stick of wood for 10S but really do not want to keep unplugging and plugging in the active balancer.

Untitledb.png

If I accomplish that then a Bluetooth BMS for each pack would be redundant. Balancing and monitoring is all that is needed if I install an inline 60 amp fuse on the negative side. The positive side goes to a DC circuit breaker.

A 10S meter like my 5 in 1 or 6S meter balancers would be ideal if they made one.

DA. Why not make a bunch and sell them. It looks like I am not the only ES member looking for that. You would probably get a dozen orders in a week. It don't have to balance. Just display voltage for each bank. It is a checker basically to make sure your BMS or active balancer is functioning properly. Cheap BMSs are unreliable. It would also need to come with a Y connecter as they don't make the right one as far as I know. male to two female.

That is if the slot of the balancer is considered female. Not sure which they consider as female or male. I have a plug coming from the cells. I call it male as it plugs in the slot with pins on the balancer. So I need the slot with the pins on one end and the two plugs on the other.

Please let me know ??? If anyone knows where I can order that please post a link. I really don't want to solder all those wires.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
It is not worth the time or energy other then the love of doing it to make very little money, use two 5s monitors or make your own https://www.instructables.com/Voltage-Measurement-Using-Arduino/ or hook up 10 of these on a piece of wood as a dashboard on your handbars or workbench https://www.banggood.com/2Pcs-Geekcreit-0_28-Inch-2_5V-30V-Mini-Digital-Volt-Meter-Voltage-Tester-Voltmeter-p-1376438.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=223&rmmds=buy

You want multiple 5s to one 10s I never seen that only multiple 5s to one 5s
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jst-xh-parallel-balance-lead-4s-250mm-2xjst-xh-2.html?queryID=629fe713015c3f9ee95b7e43fd69f544&objectID=79840&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/jst-xh-parallel-balance-lead-3s-250mm-2xjst-xh-2.html?queryID=629fe713015c3f9ee95b7e43fd69f544&objectID=79837&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics
https://www.buddyrc.com/products/jst-xh-5s-parallel-balance-cable-x2

jstxh parallel connector 5s to 5s.jpg
 
OK.

I had it in reverse then. The plug for my active balancers is female then.

I will need a male to two female 10S Y adapter.

I could not find any. I see the mini volt meters. Two wires for each and only 11 balance wires. I do not see how it could work. I will still need a 10S meter / voltage checker or will have to do the wood strip.

I guess I could glue those little mini meters to the stick of wood and hook them up somehow. A lot of work though.

meters.png

Yea. Sounds fun. I think I will build that. I did order two male to female balance extensions. Since I will need to splice two wires to 8 of the balance wires to hook up all the meters I could probably mount them to the side of the bottom LTO box and the top of the one inside the bag. I will need some wood strips and plexi glass to protect them.

Not sure. I could lose the bag but will need to sand and paint. Probably need wood filler as well to hide the imperfections. The 10 mini volt meters on the side of the LTO boxes. :idea: Thing is though it will draw unwanted attention. I need to make these LTOs theft proof. I cant have someone walking away with them.

meters.png

The LTOs are finished. I did a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hAXVQKwyKg

Yea. It took about twice as long to charge the LTOs from 48 to 54.6V as it did the 15S - LIFEPO4. That alone proves the capacity of the 26650 packs I built are way lower than stated. One or two bad cell banks could not cause that. Hopefully I will get 20+ miles from the LTOs.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
DrkAngel said:
To "weld" you want to heat metals to be welded till solder sucks onto metal like a glove. Piling solder on top of metal obscures proper weld verification, adds excessively prolonged heat and wastes solder.

Yea. I am getting aggravated. I feel like punching out my lap top. I remember doing this search before.

The 10S balance plug is male and plugs into the female (port with prongs) of the active balancer. I need a female cable on one end and two males on the other so can plug one in the active balancer and the other for a meter to monitor the cell banks

Not only do they not make a frocking 10S meter all the Y balance cables are the opposite. They are all wrong.

frock it. I guess I will just run them the way they are and when the batteries frock up I will throw them in the dumpster. It is not worth the aggravation for even $1,000 worth of batteries.

$600 worth of LTOs and $300 worth of LIFE down the drain.

From now on I will just order packs already built with Bluetooth BMSs installed.

Until then will run what I got until failure.
With undamaged cells, there is no need for any active balancer!
On the other hand, you do need to use a BMS! As testified to by your LiFe bank destruction.

Monitoring bank voltages is a good idea, you could monitor and alarm protect a proper 16s (48V) LiFe battery with 2x 8s $2 modules that I've recommended ... several times.

Maybe ...
... with your short temper and low frustration level, combined with your poor heart, you should restrict yourself to public transportation, or even better, to basic pedal bikes? You just don't seem to have the capability or temperament to deal with electric bikes! Too much stress and frustration is liable to give you a heart attack or a stroke?
 
with your short temper and low frustration level, combined with your poor heart, you should restrict yourself to public transportation, or even better, to basic pedal bikes? You just don't seem to have the capability or temperament to deal with electric bikes! Too much stress and frustration is liable to give you a heart attack or a stroke?

Yea.

I guess we all will either be 6 feet under ground or a bunch of ashes eventually anyway.

The thing is I am sure you have noticed is the batteries I have been building lately will probably out last me.

With undamaged cells, there is no need for any active balancer!
On the other hand, you do need to use a BMS! As testified to by your LiFe bank destruction.

Monitoring bank voltages is a good idea, you could monitor and alarm protect a proper 16s (48V) LiFe battery with 2x 8s $2 modules that I've recommended ... several times.

Basically I doubt I will be around when the LTOs run out of cycles. Maybe the LIFEPO4 cells. But so far they have run every e bike I hooked those up to. Even though I complained a lot they are perfect for 36V and legal 20 mph commuting. They just wont beat the average gas powered bike in a race and will continually be passed by mopeds and any thing on wheels that can do 30 mph.

The testing of the LIFE packs wont make the cells greater capacity or less SAG. They are what they are and can go up to 6 or 8 miles round trip maybe 1,000 or 2,000 times. perhaps more. Once I build the prismatic packs (two 6S and one 3S I can parallel them up when I want to run 1,000W - 40 amp chain drives for greater performance and 20+ miles of capacity.

In a month or two when I build the prismatic pack all my 36V and 48V needs will be met. Then it will be time to shop for some kick ass 4S - LiPo packs. Ternergy or Multistar. No cheap e bay knock off brands. NOT HAPPENING!!! been there and done all that.

Then I can run around 66V to the 3 killowatt brushless motor and go 45 mph. :twisted:

I could not sleep good last night. I did not drink but was not the only reason. I kept thinking what if vibration loosens up the top nut or nuts on those series connections I did with the LTOs. Probably 1 in a million chances but could happen.

I need a solution. I want these LTOs to be 100% perfect. I have an inline fuse to the negative if you watched the video. I have a solution. The nuts I used were 5/16 and was supposed to use metric so they are wrong. DA. said not to use them as well as the guy at the hardware store.

I did not listen. I torqued them down good. However that 1 in a million chance bugs me. Vibration could loosen anything over time leaving me stuck somewhere.

The nuts are not all the way on either. They are like 3/4 way. Nice and tight. The balance and series wires soldered to the ring terminals. My solution is a simple one. I am going to get the 60/40 solder at True Value and fill in the top of the bolt with solder. There is like < 1/16" gap as the nuts did not go all the way. I am filling that space in with solder.

It is ok. The pack should never have to be taken apart anyway. IF for some reason then the wood can be removed in pieces around the cells. LTOs are durable so if I ever wanted to I could solder heavier gauge wire directly to the top of the bolt with the nut soldered on it. Balance wires as well if I ever need to replace them.

Then there is the theft proofing. I need to be able to bolt the bottom LTO box that will fit over the top bar to the frame. But will need to be able to un bolt it to haul it upstairs for charging. The top box must be chained down to the bottom box somehow. I guess I still have a lot of work cut out for me before I can run the LTOs. They are fully charged though.

I doubt I will make it to the hardware store today though. It is 21 degrees and the wind is blowing. Looks like snow. Way to cold for an e bike. Hopefully in a month or two I can afford a 4 cylinder car. The van runs good but needs a blower for heat and might need a heater core so about useless < 30 degrees especially if it snows. Also I am too lazy to properly water proof an e bike and it rains a lot. Also unfortunately there are a lot of roads where riding any bike is like playing Russian Roulette.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
I need a solution. I want these LTOs to be 100% perfect. I have an inline fuse to the negative if you watched the video. I have a solution. The nuts I used were 5/16 and was supposed to use metric so they are wrong. DA. said not to use them as well as the guy at the hardware store.

I did not listen. I torqued them down good. However that 1 in a million chance bugs me. Vibration could loosen anything over time leaving me stuck somewhere.

The nuts are not all the way on either. They are like 3/4 way. Nice and tight. The balance and series wires soldered to the ring terminals. My solution is a simple one. I am going to get the 60/40 solder at True Value and fill in the top of the bolt with solder. There is like 1/16" gap as the nuts did not go all the way. I am filling that space in with solder.

It is ok. The pack should never have to be taken apart anyway. IF for some reason then the wood can be removed in pieces around the cells. LTOs are durable so if I ever wanted to I could solder heavier gauge wire directly to the top of the bolt with the nut soldered on it. Balance wires as well if I ever need to replace them.
Typical LC!
Perfect example of half\assed\backwards (maybe sidewards?) inception and delivery.
Compounding your mistakes ... ad infinitum.
Band-aids on top of band-aids.
 
Typical LC!
Perfect example of half\assed\backwards (maybe sidewards?) inception and delivery.
Compounding your mistakes ... ad infinitum.
Band-aids on top of band-aids.

Well if the nuts were the right kind (metric) which fit perfect instead of the ones that were too tight and had to torque down a little it seems like vibration would loosen the correct (metric) nuts easier than the tighter nuts.

I still want to add the solder though just to make sure but do not think I made any mistakes or used band aids. I know if I do that they can not possibly come loose by vibration. That seems more like an insurance policy than a band aide.

As far as I am concerned anyone who runs an e bike without LTOs ; My e bike has better batteries. I have earned bragging rites here on ES. The ultimate battery is LTO unless you make a deal with Elon Musk to get Telsa batteries. :mrgreen: I just do not want one loose nut to leave me 10 miles away in the middle of nowhere pushing all that dead weight down the road. :roll:

Also I am 100% correct that upgrading to 350 amps < 1 gauge wire is as simple as soldering directly to the top of the nut that I filled in with solder. It is pre tinned. :lol:

I baked the cake. They are built. Look at the solder as icing on that big birthday cake. I should be riding them by the end of April. Never know though with this weather.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Chalo could be right I love the bragging rights and cake comment at the end the good news is lc tried. I just hope the threads are not stripped and damaged which is such a simple thing to not mess up. Tesla batteries are easy to come by on ebay and the tone makes me wonder, could just be the beer buzz kicking in for lc.

End of april :shock: 3 1/2 months away :shock: beer drinking is busy drinking, the weather is looking pretty good over there https://weather.com/weather/tenday/l/Canton+OH?canonicalCityId=03d22505fb3e5c9fdf2aab3fc272e2ca7fff41e9dc807be757813ae1a67dfc37 do you need the weather to be 38-42f for the snow to melt in order to ride and have fun?

Chalo said:
Sometimes this thread seems like an incredibly elaborate, long-running troll.

latecurtis said:
Typical LC!
Perfect example of half\assed\backwards (maybe sidewards?) inception and delivery.
Compounding your mistakes ... ad infinitum.
Band-aids on top of band-aids.

Well if the nuts were the right kind (metric) which fit perfect instead of the ones that were too tight and had to torque down a little it seems like vibration would loosen the correct (metric) nuts easier than the tighter nuts.

I still want to add the solder though just to make sure but do not think I made any mistakes or used band aids. I know if I do that they can not possibly come loose by vibration. That seems more like an insurance policy than a band aide.

As far as I am concerned anyone who runs an e bike without LTOs ; My e bike has better batteries. I have earned bragging rites here on ES. The ultimate battery is LTO unless you make a deal with Elon Musk to get Telsa batteries. :mrgreen: I just do not want one loose nut to leave me 10 miles away in the middle of nowhere pushing all that dead weight down the road. :roll:

I baked the cake. They are built. Look at the solder as icing on that big birthday cake. I should be riding them by the end of April. Never know though with this weather.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Did you watch the video https://endless-sphere.com/forums/posting.php?mode=quote&f=3&p=1695415#pr1695299



nicobie said:
calab said:
Chalo could be right.

IMO Chalo is right.

Think of latecurtis as Endless Sphere's poster child. :|
 
Well, LC's are not sterilized builds like some others built by pros with better equipped shops. But he has his own way of getting there. There is a fire extingusher in the shop background on the latest video so safety gets at least a considerstion. He is not pretending to be something he is not and makes his own mistakes with the whole world watching. Which must be one of the reasons this thread lives on. Go, LC, but try to stay safe. Don't let us learn from your mistakes.
 
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