Depends on how the BMS is made to respond. What happens when you try measuring the battery voltage at the main + and - pins? If it doesn't require those to be communicating / etc with the charger or bike, you should read a voltage on them. If it does require that, then you'll probably get no voltage on them, or a lower-than-expected voltage that will "go away" (drop fairly quickly to zero) with any load at all on them.
I mean if I used a new battery pack (new cells and new generic BMS).
Because it would be a generic BMS I would only have + and -, so I'm wondering if it would work.
Unfortunately I don't have neither the charger or the bike to test it...
I mean if I used a new battery pack (new cells and new generic BMS).
Because it would be a generic BMS I would only have + and -, so I'm wondering if it would work.
Unfortunately I don't have neither the charger or the bike to test it...
It's unclear to me if you are trying to adapt a proprietary battery to a non-factory ebike, or if you are trying to adapt a generic battery to a factory ebike. Can you restate your objective?
Generic battery had two discharge leads. DIY ebike controller has 2 input leads. No issues.
Factory ebike battery may have more that 2 leads to communicate with a factory controller. The extra leads may be required for the factory controller to work, or may be required to turn the battery on/off. No issues, if the factory battery is designed to work with the factory controller.
Factory battery to DIY ebike controller might work, if the additional wires of the factory battery are not required to turn the battery on/off. Otherwise you have issues.
Generic battery to factory controller might work, if the factory controller doesn't require signals from the factory battery to function. Otherwise you have issues.