Blue 4 Pin Julet connector on Blix Eclipse

hochang934

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Jan 24, 2022
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Hi all,

First, I tried researching this all day and have not made much progress. I also reached out to the manufacturer of the controller, (Lishui), model is a LSW1316. I can't find any diagram on their site. Sent an email for help, no response yet.

In short I want to add a rear tail light to my rear rack and that also integrate the brake levers. I was looking at the control unit and saw this 4 pin connector. I am guessing these would work? I will try to put a multimeter to this connector later, but assume two pins are +, - and the other two are for the brake levers?

The bike already has front lights that are activated by a switch on the bike. I assumed since it has that function, it should be able to add on to what I am inquiring about.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I updated my original post and added my context.

In short, I want to add rear lights/brake lights to the bike. It already has a front light switch that activates the front lights.
 
A tail light would just connect to the appropriate power source on your bike, directly, so that it turns on when you turn the bike on.

There are many kinds, and voltages they need, and amounts of current they'll need to operate. Anything bright enough to be useful will take more power than you can get out of any of the controller's connectors; it would probably damage the controller (or the display) to connect them to it directly.

If you use 12v (automotive, motorcycle) types, you'll need a DC-DC converter that takes whatever your main battery voltage is and converts it to 13.6v-15vdc, whcih is the range that these types actually expect (12v isn't enough to run them properly). It will need to be capable of enough amps (A) to run the tail light and anything else you later decide to add (turn signals, other headlights, accent lights, downlights, etc).

If you use the types that have a wide range voltage input, intended to run directly off an ebike battery, then you don't need the DC-DC as long as your battery is within it's range.

In either case, you could connect a separate switch that connects the DC-DC's input or the wide-range light's input to the battery output. If the battery has it's own switch, and you want hte light on all the time the battery is on, you can skip the extra switch.

If you want the controller's light button to turn the taillight on too, you'll need to add a relay driver to the headlight output, that then controls a relay that turns your taillight on and off (connecting directly to the headlight output will probably blow up the internal control electronics of the display/controller and the headlight wont' work either). If the relay driver takes enough current to run, then you'll also need to use the relay (or a separate one) to control the headlight, too, and not run it directly off that controller output. THey don't usually handle much power very well.

There are other voltage lights like those that run on AA or AAA batteries, etc., and you'll need to use a DC-DC (or separate battery) to power those, like with teh 12v lights.



If the tail light you want to use also has a brake light, then you can use a relay driven by the ebrake lever to control it. The actual controller ebrake signal line probably can't handle the current needed by a decent brake light, so you don't want to directly connect the light to the ebrake wires.

The "best" way to splice the brake light control signal into the ebrake wiring is to use an extension cable that has male on one end and female on the other, to go between the ebrake connectors (whichever they are) and the controller. Then you can cut into the extension cable's housing and first test teh wiring to find which is the one you need to connect to, and then splice into that from your relay driver. That way you aren't messing with the original wiring's waterproofness, and can easily bypass a problem with any addon wiring by just taking it out of the circuit path and plugging the original connectors back together.


Some brake lights use a grounding signal to turn them on, and some require a voltage to turn them on. You'll need to know which one is required before draw up and building (or buying) the relay circuit for it.


There is a thread by Teklektik about his 2WD cargo bike (Yuba Mundo, IIRC) that has details on his lighting and wiring and parts lists, etc., that you may find a useful reference.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36959
There are also posts helping various people with this kind of thing that you can find by searching my posts, that may have useful info.


Note that if you don't know what the blue connectors are for, I don't recommend doing anything with them until you find out. Tracing where they go to and come from in the bike wiring harness is your first easy check, just folloiwng the cable from each connector to whatever is on the other end. What the actual signals are may be guessable from there, or you may then need to open up the cable or the device at one end or the other to measure things. (measuring anything without it all connected doesnt' always tell you what is really happening).
 
hochang934 said:
I updated my original post and added my context.

In short, I want to add rear lights/brake lights to the bike. It already has a front light switch that activates the front lights.

So was the 4 pin connector was just dangling loose from the controller, or hooked up performing a function?
 
Thanks amberwolf. I’ll do a deep dive into that thread.

E-HP, it is an unused PIN that was capped off. I am hoping that the controller manufacturer can send me some documentation so I can figure out what that plug is used for. Just wanted to see if anyone else here has seen that connector before and what it was used for on their bikes.
 
I have some Rad Rover Bikes with this Lt blue 4 pin connector . A couple of the lights stopped working and I could not find any lights with that 4 pin Juliet connector except the ones from rad which cost $35.00
 
I’ve got a similar situation on a radrunner plus. I bought this kit….

US $47.14 9% Off | For KT Controller 8 9 Pin Julet Conversion Line E-Bike Waterproof Line Light Set with Brake Turn Signal Bike Light Horn
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqGQMIY

I have a similar kit for my Ride1Up, but that one has JST connectors and hooked up with no issue. These Water Proof plugs are more of a hassle. I did what AmberWolf recommended (the best way) with cutting an extension cable, that way I’m not butchering the actual line from the controller and I’ll have more slack. This blue 4 pin Juliet connector has constant power, unlike the headlight. The headlight operates from a 3 pin red plug.

I tried color for color, but wasn’t surprised when it didn’t work. Definitely will need to check all wires with a meter.

SIDENOTE!! The controller has a little PCB that operates the head light. When you hold up, the lights turns off and on. I wired some lights to this and one of the lights shorted out. That sent voltage back, the wrong way, to my controller and burned up the little PCB. Now, I have lost that headlight feature. Got lucky it was just that PCB and not the controller itself. I now use another switch for my headlight. Just a word of caution when wiring into the headlight.
 
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