E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
Just confirmed, the F37 is still running the 14s 58.8 volt HOC system they always have, and the Bomber is running a 22s 92.4 volt HOC battery, however, the hub motors are the same on the Fighter and Bomber now. Not sure what fets they are using in the Fighter's controller, but if its 4110 fets, it would be very easy to squeez more power out of it by increasing battery voltage.

How many WH or AH are the 92.4v batterys?
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Rix said:
Just confirmed, the F37 is still running the 14s 58.8 volt HOC system they always have, and the Bomber is running a 22s 92.4 volt HOC battery, however, the hub motors are the same on the Fighter and Bomber now. Not sure what fets they are using in the Fighter's controller, but if its 4110 fets, it would be very easy to squeez more power out of it by increasing battery voltage.

How many WH or AH are the 92.4v batterys?

Latest batteries are 28Ah....I think. I know its over 2kwh usable. So figure 2.4kwh total.
 
pizza said:
Rix said:
with that said, if one buys an offroad only model, they are lighter, even thought not as light as the older gen models.

Which models are these "offorad only models"? I can't get their site to load at the moment.

Ciao Pizza, Cut and paste this link into a google chrome browser, see if that brings it up for you.

https://stealthelectricbikes.com/hpb.html#slider1-1h
 
Theres fire in them hills... Fire copter from one of the LA fire camps.

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Rix said:
Cozen89 said:
Stealthlife said:
I have a 2022 stealth F37 and it's 72 V and wow what a powerhouse over the old version if you guys want the controller motor specs let me know I also have a YouTube channel called stealth life I cover a lot of stuff if you want to check it out

The 2022 f37’s are 72v now? You sure about this? I might upgrade if this is true.

Just confirmed, the F37 is still running the 14s 58.8 volt HOC system they always have, and the Bomber is running a 22s 92.4 volt HOC battery, however, the hub motors are the same on the Fighter and Bomber now. Not sure what fets they are using in the Fighter's controller, but if its 4110 fets, it would be very easy to squeez more power out of it by increasing battery voltage.

Thanks for confirming Rix. I contacted Stealth US too and they said it’s the same voltage as the previous models which they are 48v. This is also strange to me, because isn’t 58.8 52v? Either way, the new line of stealth bikes are not 72v
 
Sorry no can do man! That throttle position is there for a reason. Its the safest location for bashing through brush and tip overs. Embrace the up throttle!

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ahh... so we've had a shitload of rain down here in sydney last couple of days and shitloads more to come.

Me being a dumb dumb, saw a puddle on the bikepath and decided, hey whats the harm? I've siliconed a lot of the possible entry points (cables holes, vboxx mounting holes, controller), Im gonna go through it.

Yeah, wasnt a puddle it came up to my hips while sitting on the seat completely submerging the bike.

It immediately powered off, and I pushed the thing out and drained as much as I could and tried powering it on because I was on the way to an appointment. After a couple of (DC-1) errors at start screen and (Throttle open), I managed to get it on and everything was seemingly fine.

However after work, a couple of more (DC-1) errors and finally managing to get the bike to start, the throttle was completely unresponsive. Needless to say it was a frocked up push back home in the pouring rain.

When I did get home I immediately pulled everything apart to see where the water got into and to give everything a chance to dry.
The battery compartment was dry aside from a couple of drops from the pinsized drainage hole area, the controller, I emptied perhaps half a cup. Wiped everything the best I could then used a compressor and blew everything down and left it open for the next 2 days.


Started it up again no errors and goes straight to start screen, but the throttle is dead. I've read that water ingress into the throttle is quite a common issue on a lot of e-bikes so I've purchased that and awaiting to fit and see if it fixes. I come to you big brains once again to ask if there is anything else I should look at, or do to get things back up and running.

TIA
 
Could use some expert advice. I swapped out my 203 front rotor for a 220 yesterday and I couldn’t get the caliber and brakes to line up completely centered so there’s a slight rub. I took it by a local shop to see if they could help me adjust it and they said the pads are sitting too far out and sitting above the edge of the rotor. I stepped up to a 2 piece magura rotor and used a 17mm magura adaptor. Anyone else run in to this issue? And how bad is it? The shop said I should switch it back or take the adaptor to a
Machine shop and have them shave 1-2mm off the adaptor. Here’s some pics from today after a short ride to see where the pads are lining up.
 

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Yeah gonna go with what your mechanic said on this one. Swap it back or machine it to spec. Otherwise you're gonna get some serious uneven wear on the pads. As you can already see there is a fair bit of material already shaven off.
 
AAAAQQQ said:
Yeah gonna go with what your mechanic said on this one. Swap it back or machine it to spec. Otherwise you're gonna get some serious uneven wear on the pads. As you can already see there is a fair bit of material already shaven off.

Why make it so difficult? I would just go back to the oridginal 203 adapter, and add washers to adjust the caliper.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
AAAAQQQ said:
Yeah gonna go with what your mechanic said on this one. Swap it back or machine it to spec. Otherwise you're gonna get some serious uneven wear on the pads. As you can already see there is a fair bit of material already shaven off.

Why make it so difficult? I would just go back to the oridginal 203 adapter, and add washers to adjust the caliper.

Good question, I never thought of just using washers. Is that a safe solution?
 
Cozen89 said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
AAAAQQQ said:
Yeah gonna go with what your mechanic said on this one. Swap it back or machine it to spec. Otherwise you're gonna get some serious uneven wear on the pads. As you can already see there is a fair bit of material already shaven off.

Why make it so difficult? I would just go back to the oridginal 203 adapter, and add washers to adjust the caliper.

Good question, I never thought of just using washers. Is that a safe solution?

Sure using washers is a tried and true method. You might also be able to find spacers at a hardware store and use a combination of spacer and washers.
 
[/quote]

Sure using washers is a tried and true method. You might also be able to find spacers at a hardware store and use a combination of spacer and washers.
[/quote]

Thanks for the suggestion. It’s a little strange to me that the adaptor from magura is taller on one side than the other. Maybe washers/spacers will allow me to dial it in. The question is, is this even worth all the trouble tho haha
 
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