TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

Just reporting an "unintended acceleration" event where the motor was stuck providing assist even with feet off the pedals and throttle fully closed. This is with 48v, 8-pin VLCD5, v20.1C.1, hybrid assist.

I was just arriving at home and was turning into the side street driveway into my neighborhood. As I was slowing down and downshifting before the turn, I realized the bike was moving on its own at ~7mph. I took my feet off the pedals and flicked the thumb throttle back and forth to no avail. I lightly braked but didn't want to damage the blue gear. I held the power button until the display and motor shut off. Then I turned the display back on and everything was back to normal. The next day, my commute to work was uneventful.

Now I am certainly going to install my brake lever sensors this weekend :mrgreen:
 
Mr.Flibble said:
mbrusa said:
With OSF you take risks, not just for any firmware bugs.
Above all, a lot of attention is required during flashing operations, avoid flashing the controller with the display on, avoid connecting and disconnecting the various connectors with the display on.
I once, inadvertently, I unplugged 860C without turning it off, then it didn't turn on anymore.

In your case, I cannot know what the cause may be.
How did you manage to use 860C without connecting it to the motor?

Also for SW102 I have no idea, having never tried it.
I know that there are blocking problems in the configuration menu that can be fixed by removing the battery.
Have you tried to reprogram it and / or reset the parameters?

The 860c was only connected to the controller.
I have a feeling (based on not very much) that it was coincidence that it "popped" while I was calibrating, and would have done so anyway.
But I have no evidence to back this "feeling" up, other than 20 years as a IT/PC engineer, and you get a feeling for these things.

I haven't tried reprograming the SW102 yet, as I and am an Idiot and left my battery behind.

Thanks for answering, I was just wondering if they rang any bells with other people.......

If anyone is interested?
I tried disconnecting the power - no change
I tried re flashing - no change

If I change the power levels in settings, I get accesses to approximately half that number.

The last thing I changed (when it was working correctly) was the display from SI to Imperial units.

It looks like it's trying to convert my "metric power levels" into the approximate number of "Imperial power levels".

I have set it back to SI, and I immediately got my 8 levels back.

Hope this helps someone.
 
Which file in the source code do i have to edit in eclipse to change the maximum battery and maximum motor current? Compared to osf 1.1.0 the system seems to be much weaker…
 
Peacepirate said:
Which file in the source code do i have to edit ....
Compared to osf 1.1.0 the system seems to be much weaker…
I can't answer your question, but if I read the reason for editing, two thoughts came up for that weaker performance.
- low sensitive torquesensor isn't calibrated
- very limited streetmode enabled by default
 
I have bought TSDZ2 (throttle version) and 860C display and have problem to get them to work together.....

Firmware used:
TSDZ - TSDZ2-v20.1C.3-860C-NEW.hex
860C - 860C_v20.1C.3-bootloader.bin

Battery: 52v

Background information:
1. I have been able to flash both TSDZ and 860 display without any errors.
2. The display boot up when I powered it from my USB DYI box.
3. When I connect the 860C display together with TSDZ is will not boot up... for me it looks like it not like the high power?
I have measured the voltage from TSDZ to be just over 50v...
4. I have tried to connect the 860C display to TSDZ and power it from the DYI box... but I still got "waiting for TSDZ", I also tried to swap the TX and RX.

These is the way I have connected it:
https://imgbb.com/LJ2S6yb

When I flashed the 860 display and was using the USB adapter, I connected:
RX to white
TX to Green
+V to Brown
GND to Black

Anybody have a idea what I can try or what is wrong?

I`m deeply grateful for advice, feel I`m lost now....
 
Hello, i have been through this sort of thing so I feel some of your pain. Have you checked the connections with a multi-meter
ignoring the colours of the wires and using the pins as guidance as per the diagrams on the various wiki's, my wires were not the colours that were to be expected?
 
Hi,

I have tried to masure the voltae on the cable, but how can I use the multimeter to figure out "what is what" ?
Example RC and TX shall not be 52v there ?

Do you have a picture or overview what colours you was ending up using ?


Thank you !
 
Elinx said:
Peacepirate said:
Which file in the source code do i have to edit ....
Compared to osf 1.1.0 the system seems to be much weaker…
I can't answer your question, but if I read the reason for editing, two thoughts came up for that weaker performance.
- low sensitive torquesensor isn't calibrated
- very limited streetmode enabled by default

Hi. Thanks for your reply.
I deactivate street mode always before starting but the torquesensor calibration could be the reason. Cant tell it anymore because my controller died yesterday suddenly. I used it with my sw102 display and wondered what happened because light switch was still working. After being pissed off one evening i opened the enclosure again and voila:
Seems like mosfet burned away. I thought we shouldnt use the 20.c3 firmware only if we have vlcd5 display…
Now i know better. Have to check now whether its enough to replace the mosfets only or if there are some gates driver / transistors too that need my attention.
 

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Peacepirate said:
......
Seems like mosfet burned away. I thought we shouldnt use the 20.c3 firmware only if we have vlcd5 display…
Now i know better. Have to check now whether its enough to replace the mosfets only .....
Sorry for your loss.
I know the "burning mosfet" problem was (till now) only mentioned by stock display users.
I think you are the first that had this problem too with another display.
imho the base of OSF code is the same and the cause was never found.
So who knows, it is possible that this can happen with other display's too.
With mspider65 version (the base of it) there is no complain too
Maybe it has to do with the number of users of an OSF version.

I think, I had read somewhere that some has replaced only these mosfets with succes, instead of replacing the complete controller.

source for the mosfet type:
K80E08K3 Toshiba Mosfets
• mosfet N
• Max drain−source voltage: 75V
• RDS (ON) = 7.5 mΩ
 
Hi Guys,

I am relatively new to this topic. I ordered a 36V 350W motor 8pin from pswpower and installed it. Runs well so far. I also ordered a SW102 from Enerprof which works directly with the stock firmware. The way I read it, pswpower ships the 2021 motors with old controllers. That would mean that I can flash the firmware, because it works with the old controller, right?

Do i have to flash the firmware for stock displays or the one for the SW102 then? I do not know what firmware is installed on the display. It just shows FW Vers. 1.0. And can I buy a plug and play ST Link for my 8pin motor?

Thank you for your answers.

Cheers,
Niklas
 
niklas17 said:
.... pswpower ships the 2021 motors with old controllers. That would mean that I can flash the firmware, ......

Do i have to flash the firmware for stock displays or the one for the SW102 then? I do not know what firmware is installed on the display. It just shows FW Vers. 1.0. And can I buy a plug and play ST Link for my 8pin motor?..........
It isn't 100% sure that you have an old controller, but I think you are right that there is just a very small chance it isn't.

If you SW102 runs with stock FW as you say, you can flash OSF for stock display too with javaconfigurator.
I think it is easier for first experience with flashing and trying OSF, because you only have to flash the controller

One point is which display to set. imho it depends of the batterybars of the SW102. Try vlcd5 first and see what happens.
Other point is the handling of the display is not exactly the same as other stock display, but how much different isn't clear beforehand.

Because the SW102 is made for the tsdz2, the firmware is different from another SW102, so it isn't clear if you can flash other FW directly or that you need to flash the bootloader first, meaning to break the display.
I think you can flash directly SW102, without bootloader first, but I'm not sure of that.
And realize flashing the display is a one way trip.
You can't make a backup and restore of the original SW102 FW as you can with the tsdz2 controller.
 
gordone said:
Hi,

I have tried to masure the voltae on the cable, but how can I use the multimeter to figure out "what is what" ?
Example RC and TX shall not be 52v there ?

Do you have a picture or overview what colours you was ending up using ?


Thank you !

Hello, what I mean is if you can find the pictures (see below as an example) that tell you which pins are which on the controller and the 860, you can check that the connections on your cable match these, regardless of the colours of the wires. This sort of thing, other than that i'm out of ideas as it moves to a more complicated solution.

850C_860C_connector.jpg
 
Elinx said:
...If you SW102 runs with stock FW as you say, you can flash OSF for stock display too with javaconfigurator.
I think it is easier for first experience with flashing and trying OSF, because you only have to flash the controller

One point is which display to set. imho it depends of the batterybars of the SW102. Try vlcd5 first and see what happens.
Other point is the handling of the display is not exactly the same as other stock display, but how much different isn't clear beforehand...

Thank you! The battery indicator looks like the VLCD5, but instead of six bars, it has only five.
What is the worst that can happen if the SW102 is not 100% compatible with the OSF for Stock displays? According to Enerprof, the SW102 was developed with Tongsheng based on firmware vers. 5.0. Just in case that info is helpful...

I will backup the stock controller firmware either way, but is there a difference between the 6pin and 8pin firmware?
 
niklas17 said:
.... VLCD5, but instead of six bars, it has only five.
What is the worst that can happen if the SW102 is not 100% compatible with the OSF for Stock displays? .....SW102 was developed with Tongsheng

.. difference between the 6pin and 8pin firmware?
I think you must set the highest two bars the same max Volltage and recalculate the other bars a bit.

The handling of OSF is more complex then stock FW.
The worst what could happen is that it is more difficult to handle some functions or maybe impossible to set from display.
But imho this will not happen, because the communication protocol is equal to other stock displays.
If you are not satisfied with this handling, you can consider to flash the other version of OSF and flash SW102 and controller.
The SW012 version of OSF isn't perfect and has some minor points, but handling the display is easier.

There is no difference for 6pin or 8pin controller, but the 6pin is missing the throttle wires.
These wires are handy if you want to add a temperature sensor. (instead of throttle)
With 6pin you must solder new wires on the controller pcb, which isn't the easiest job.
 
Elinx said:
...The handling of OSF is more complex then stock FW.
The worst what could happen is that it is more difficult to handle some functions or maybe impossible to set from display.
But imho this will not happen, because the communication protocol is equal to other stock displays...

Ok thanks for you help. I need to order the ST Link v2 first, then I will give it a try. Will give an update than how the firmware works with the display :wink:
 
Peacepirate said:
Elinx said:
Peacepirate said:
Which file in the source code do i have to edit ....
Compared to osf 1.1.0 the system seems to be much weaker…
I can't answer your question, but if I read the reason for editing, two thoughts came up for that weaker performance.
- low sensitive torquesensor isn't calibrated
- very limited streetmode enabled by default

Hi. Thanks for your reply.
I deactivate street mode always before starting but the torquesensor calibration could be the reason. Cant tell it anymore because my controller died yesterday suddenly. I used it with my sw102 display and wondered what happened because light switch was still working. After being pissed off one evening i opened the enclosure again and voila:
Seems like mosfet burned away. I thought we shouldnt use the 20.c3 firmware only if we have vlcd5 display…
Now i know better. Have to check now whether its enough to replace the mosfets only or if there are some gates driver / transistors too that need my attention.

Have been using 20.c3 and SW102 since it was released without any issue. Interesting.
can you share the values you used in the config menus?
 
no power, then burnt mosfets. maybe a problem with the engine? or something is difficult?

MFG Michael
 
Has anyone solved the problem with the new 850c 2021 display? after uploading the software, the display does not turn on. apparently there are other parts inside.

 
Bah, files are too big to upload directly. Will resize and post directly later but FYI here is a link to the TSDZ2 facebook group, and it is a post with closeup photos of a high quality temperature sensor install that I developed over time. Interested to hear any feedback, I am pretty happy with the current state of it after going through a few revisions regarding the process/supplies...

- tapped directly into THR wires on an 8 pin controller for a very clean install

- temp sensor is on mini JST clip for removal during repair/inspection etc

- can unplug clip to deactivate temp sensor and enable use of throttle

- temp sensor is metal backed and screwed to the motor firmly

- hole 4mm deep drilled into motor to attach temp sensor, this is 1-2mm less than the thickness of the hull so the hole does not go all the way through

https://www.facebook.com/groups/734929600180813/permalink/1657402857933478/
 
Hello,

I installed a TSDZ2 on my bike and I ordered the 6-pin version when an XH18 display. I did not know that the 6-pin version could was not compatible with a throttle. Can I still add a throttle to my TSDZ2, preferably without opening the motor or soldering?
 
Square said:
....6-pin version when an XH18 display.....
Can I still add a throttle .... without opening the motor or soldering?
No.
The throttle connections are not wired on the controller.
So if you want throttle, you must solder some wires on it or replace the controller for an 8pin version, but then you must solder a connector or replace the XH18 for 8pin vlcd5 too.

A soft solution could be to use cruise mode inside OSF.
But this isn't exactly the same as throttle.
 
hetm4n said:
Has anyone solved the problem with the new 850c 2021 display? after uploading the software, the display does not turn on. apparently there are other parts inside.


Any updates on this yet?ty
 
Zadou1989 said:
Zadou1989 said:
Elinx said:
Zadou1989 said:
...

Yes, It works with stock firmware...
I had tried to flash the motor controller with ST-Iink, but communication fails ...
. Perhaps I am having the newest one.
Without flashing the controller too, it is not possible to run OSF.

You can measure with a multimeter.between gnd en swim on the connector to see if you have a new or old version.
New = 0V
Old = 5V

Thanks. I did so, I measured voltage between bottom left and right pin of speed sensor connector, it showed 4.99, So I guess mine is old version, I will try to flash it again.

I had flashed both 850C display and motor controller by 20.1C3. And learned how to set. Awesome! But my 3 pin throttle is not working anymore, even I had put on of throttle enable in street mode.

Update: 3 pin throttle is working now after I red the Configuration guide.
The OSF firmware is awesome as per my expectation. Thank you. Guys

How did you flashed the 850c display?I have also the 2021 version, I cant flashed it using bootloader box. Any tips,thank you
 
Riding on the road yesterday, without pedaling, the motor kept outputting until I turned off the VLCD6.
Even after I replaced the battery, the problem came back.
My bluetooth BMS can display the real current, I found that the current is almost 1.8A, and it always outputs this value.
It seems like the throttle is locked, I don't actually have the throttle on my bike.
Maybe the adc is out of order?
 
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