full-throttle
1 MW
For a moment I thought you were using this:Mark_A_W said:
Mark_A_W's DH Team/MAC Shanghai/64v Headway build
- Thread starter Mark_A_W
- Start date
full-throttle
1 MW
Mark's battery box is (almost) finished and it looks great - black and shiny.
The motor is fitted back with the nylon gears and its practically silent. At 20A peak his bike goes really well, in fact I found it impossible to keep up with - touching 60kph on the flats (not really sure what speed he was doing because I was puffing @ 45kph long way back) and 50kph up a steepish hill (I was @ 37.5kph). The best part though is the handling - a few times Mark used driveways as jumps or drops - the bike took it all with grace.
Well done Mark!
The motor is fitted back with the nylon gears and its practically silent. At 20A peak his bike goes really well, in fact I found it impossible to keep up with - touching 60kph on the flats (not really sure what speed he was doing because I was puffing @ 45kph long way back) and 50kph up a steepish hill (I was @ 37.5kph). The best part though is the handling - a few times Mark used driveways as jumps or drops - the bike took it all with grace.
Well done Mark!
Mark_A_W
100 kW
Thanks 
And it's 28.5 amps today, not 20 amps.
Will move it to 30amps, but that's it.
I'll get some pics up soon.
And it's 28.5 amps today, not 20 amps.
Will move it to 30amps, but that's it.
I'll get some pics up soon.
Hyena
10 GW
Cool. Where did you get the plastic gears so quickly ?
How would you compare the acceleration on ~30a compared to a DD hub ?
How would you compare the acceleration on ~30a compared to a DD hub ?
voicecoils
1 MW
Hyena said:
He already had them! Just swapped the metal 3rd gear for the original plastic one.
Busy on the long weekend? Come up and have a ride on the BMC V2-S powered Kona on a blistering 37A :lol:
full-throttle
1 MW
Hyena, I wouldn't refuse an offer like that :wink: BMC V2-S is a MAC (or Puma if you like) with most of the bugs ironed out.
Hyena
10 GW
Where's up ? I'm keen for a ride but unfortunately am tied up with my sisters wedding this long weekend.voicecoils said:
I should have my Norco back together in another week then I'll race ya
Mark_A_W
100 kW
full-throttle said:
Famous last words....
Check your keyway/key and gear pins after a few weeks at 37A.
voicecoils
1 MW
Mark_A_W said:
I will check. I'm not running as high a voltage as you with my 15S lipo pack so peak power ends up being about the same as your 20 cell lifepo4 setup limited to 28.5A.
AussieJester
1 TW
Hyena said:
Oh mate... :: sigh ::
Always the "bridesmaid" never the bride... I was greasing up some wheel bearings over the weekend with molybdenum grease and found my tin of straight graphite, i
wonder if half a cup of this would go in a geared frock Mark instead of oil? I thought it might stay in the frock a little longer than the oil that was mentioned 'leaked' a lil? Just a thought anywayz...
When we getting pics of the oober L337 fiberglass battery box mate im very keen to see how it came out?
KiM
Hyena
10 GW
Cool, I also have a 15S lipo pack I'm using on one of my bikes so it'll be interesting to compare how they perform.voicecoils said:
Your BMC has the composite gears though right ?
Stop spamming the forum with photoshopped pictures of me you asshat :lol:AussieJester said:
Mark_A_W
100 kW
Here are some almost up to date pics.
Changes since these pics:
- Box is 15mm narrower (and recentered to suit)
- 3mm Stainless Tube struts added to rear mudguard, drilled into the protective plastic bosses I added near the axles
Notice I added RC balance connections to the Cells. Now I can check all cell voltages easily with an RC cell monitor. Turns out the BMS is balancing quite well....or the cells have a natural tendency to sit at 3.31v. Even the 4 cells without a BMS sit at 3.31v, despite being individually charged to ~3.65v.
Changes since these pics:
- Box is 15mm narrower (and recentered to suit)
- 3mm Stainless Tube struts added to rear mudguard, drilled into the protective plastic bosses I added near the axles
Notice I added RC balance connections to the Cells. Now I can check all cell voltages easily with an RC cell monitor. Turns out the BMS is balancing quite well....or the cells have a natural tendency to sit at 3.31v. Even the 4 cells without a BMS sit at 3.31v, despite being individually charged to ~3.65v.
Attachments
AussieJester
1 TW
Oh veeeery nice Mark the battery enclosure has come up a freakin treat mate !!
Looks very slick all installed in the frame too, very pro mate well done
to all those that contributed to the making of it too...
KiM
p.s im glad i have a 32in monitor those pics when you clickz on them are HUUUGE hahaa...nice
EDIT: forgot to ask also Mark...what method did you choose to keep the container together?
Looks very slick all installed in the frame too, very pro mate well done
to all those that contributed to the making of it too...
KiM
p.s im glad i have a 32in monitor those pics when you clickz on them are HUUUGE hahaa...nice
EDIT: forgot to ask also Mark...what method did you choose to keep the container together?
adrian_sm
1 MW
I vote you paint your forks black. The red standards out too much, against the new battery box.
Then it will look sweeeeeeet.
- Adrian
Then it will look sweeeeeeet.
- Adrian
AussieJester
1 TW
I likez the red forks...the battery box could be done in the same blue as the frame perhaps? Either way it looks schweet as is IMHO. Very professional looking outfit i think.
KiM
KiM
Mark_A_W
100 kW
I didn't get a choice on the colour, it was black or black. But it was free. 2 pack.
I'm not pulling the forks apart. They are red and staying that way, and they go faster.
At the moment the box is sticky taped together. Today I'm thinking a little black 20mm webbing and some press studs (aka click buttons) in the corners...tomorrow..well I dunno.
The other choice is sticky velcro, slit in half and laid either side of the join. Then a non-sticky velcro "wrap" around the whole lot.
Sorry I forget to resize the pics....
I'm not pulling the forks apart. They are red and staying that way, and they go faster.
At the moment the box is sticky taped together. Today I'm thinking a little black 20mm webbing and some press studs (aka click buttons) in the corners...tomorrow..well I dunno.
The other choice is sticky velcro, slit in half and laid either side of the join. Then a non-sticky velcro "wrap" around the whole lot.
Sorry I forget to resize the pics....
AussieJester
1 TW
Mark_A_W said:
I'm guessing its a pretty 'tight' press fit anyways? I like the press stud idea, depending on how often you need to gain access velcro could also be good, after ripping it apart couple dozen times i find it loses alot of its 'sticking' power... Would drilling ~ 3 holes on each side epoxing a nut on the inner side of the enclosure and popping the bolts through be a possible option maybe? Few neat cap screws would look neat and go with the pro-look finish of the box...Even you have to admit though Mark it is a bettr look than your duct taped pack ... i know i know you are believer of the tape hehee...best of luck with the fastening of it anywayz
KiM
Mark_A_W
100 kW
I need to be able to open it twice every day to charge.
It's a tight enough fit that half a ball on a leaf spring (ball detent) would probably work fine.
It's a tight enough fit that half a ball on a leaf spring (ball detent) would probably work fine.
Hyena
10 GW
Painted by Henry Ford hey ?Mark_A_W said:
You might have mentioned it earlier but whats the other box under your controller ? Given the current you're running that big 18 fet controller is a bit of overkill. Have you thought about using a little 9 fet ? You could fit it up between the seat post and mudguard and it'd be more out of harms way too.
As for opening it to charge, can't you put a neat little charing port on it somewhere ??
Mark_A_W
100 kW
The 18 fet is total overkill. But I got it cheap from Voicecoils, and it's programmable, and I fitted my CA shunt inside it (I could have converted the CA to direct plug in, but to be honest it's better with a shunt - more accurate, more reliable). 12 Fet would be a better match to the motor.
I'm running it at half it's current capacity. But you never know, I might fit an X5 one day.
The box below the controller contains my DC-DC converter for the lights (ebay: Hitron, $14 landed).
A charging port is tricky currently. I have a 16 cell pack with BMS and an XLR charge connection - perfect for a port.
But I have 4 more cells with both a single 12v charge connection (dc plugpack style) for unbalanced charging, and a big 6 Pin XLR connection for single cell charging. The 6 Pin XLR has a male socket, which is not good for a charge port.
It's messy...
I hope to fit a 20 Cell BMS and use a 20 cell charger = one connection....one day.
I'm running it at half it's current capacity. But you never know, I might fit an X5 one day.
The box below the controller contains my DC-DC converter for the lights (ebay: Hitron, $14 landed).
A charging port is tricky currently. I have a 16 cell pack with BMS and an XLR charge connection - perfect for a port.
But I have 4 more cells with both a single 12v charge connection (dc plugpack style) for unbalanced charging, and a big 6 Pin XLR connection for single cell charging. The 6 Pin XLR has a male socket, which is not good for a charge port.
It's messy...
I hope to fit a 20 Cell BMS and use a 20 cell charger = one connection....one day.
Hyena
10 GW
Hmmm ok that charging situation DOES sounds messy! Can't you just charge up at 20S voltage and let the BMS handle the balancing of the 16S it's watching after the fact ?
Have you got a link to your DC-DC converter ? I had a look on ebay but couldn't see any specific hitron ones.
I've got a charger from an old motorola brick mobile phone that outputs 1.5a @ 5v but it's not really powerful enough for my main SSC P7 headlights.
Have you got a link to your DC-DC converter ? I had a look on ebay but couldn't see any specific hitron ones.
I've got a charger from an old motorola brick mobile phone that outputs 1.5a @ 5v but it's not really powerful enough for my main SSC P7 headlights.
Mark_A_W
100 kW
Item 130353756516
If I'm getting a 20 cell charger, then I'm getting a BMS to match. I don't fancy charging 16 cells with a bms and 4 without, all at once.
If I'm getting a 20 cell charger, then I'm getting a BMS to match. I don't fancy charging 16 cells with a bms and 4 without, all at once.
AussieJester
1 TW
Hyena said:
Remeber the one i have/told you about Hyena...48-72v to 12vdc converter ? 25 bucks...can find link if required, actually check your
pms i sentz it too you...tiny unit about size of smoke packet...in an enclosure same as the Infineons...
KiM
Mark_A_W
100 kW
If you want to run led headlights/flashers, then you need 6v, not 12v. Some leds drivers will run at 12v, but they just burn it off as heat.
The Hitron converter has 3.3, 6, and 12v outputs. I'm pulling 40w out of the 6v line.
And it's only 60x60x10mm. My box is bigger than that as I added a capacitor (so the flashing led didn't change mode when I turn on the 4 headlights), and it contains the connections and a switch.
It's also a heatsink, as I'm pulling 40w out of a 30w dc converter, and it gets warm without a heatsink.
The Hitron converter has 3.3, 6, and 12v outputs. I'm pulling 40w out of the 6v line.
And it's only 60x60x10mm. My box is bigger than that as I added a capacitor (so the flashing led didn't change mode when I turn on the 4 headlights), and it contains the connections and a switch.
It's also a heatsink, as I'm pulling 40w out of a 30w dc converter, and it gets warm without a heatsink.
