New Bafang Crank-Drives

My next problem is the error 21 showing up on the c961. That code is for the speed sensor. My speedo isn't working and the display shuts down after it doesn't register. The motor still functions, but I can't switch my assist levels without rebooting. The red light on the speed sensor is lighting up every time the magnet passes by. The magnet is within 5mm of the sensor. Any suggestions on that?
 
hoka said:
If someone figures out how to make a cable to connect it to a computer, I do have the software now

Took my display apart and traced out the display connector pinout (display side):

7DaWbi3.jpg


GND = ground,
TXD = transmit data, logic level
RXD = receive data, logic level
P+ = battery voltage to the display.
PL = Possibly logic level power to the display, need to check this.

Note these connections do not go through a level converter before connection to the controller chip so do not use RS232 levels (i.e do not connect directly to a computer serial port). Logic levels only! I'm not sure if 5V or 3V though.

Will make some measurements later tonight after I get home.

So the first or second cable on this page should do http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/Cables/USBTTLSerial.htm (TTL-232RG-VSW3V3-WE or TTL-232RG-VSW5V-WE) depending if it is 5V or 3V - yet to be determined.

This cable might work too: https://www.adafruit.com/products/954

People also make these from old Nokia phone serial cables.
 
I have about 110 miles on my BBS01 kit from lectriccycles.com. Today I was doing a 27 mile ride and near the end, when I gave a throttle boost while not pedaling for a moment I felt a slight lateral movement in the cranks/pedals. Getting home I checked the M33 locking nuts and sure enough, both the main and locking nuts were loose. I could see the entire motor rock a tiny bit when I gave a perpendicular push on a crank. Using my Parks spanner I found about a quarter turn of slack. Time will tell if this happens again and if so, I'll have to find some sort of thread locking solution. I thought I had it pretty tight during the original install.
I'm still trying to find the max distance that I can ride per charge under my riding conditions (PAS 2 or 3, not very much throttle, 85% flat and I'm 75). So far, the battery 'bar' indicator has not fallen below 3 of 4. I'm beginning to think I can get 40 miles or more. I'm using 36V 14.5Ah.
UpRider
 
Yep UpRider the locking rings working loose has been noted here a few times. Loctite 'em. Check your crank bolts too.

After today's ride through some fire trails I've decided to keep my throttle (as opposed to replacing it with a boost switch). There were some long, deep, dry sandy parts to the trail that were a severe (but fun) challenge to get through with Hookworm tyres on. The follow on power from the PAS tipped me off a couple of times. The best way through I found was modulating the power with the throttle as it cut out a lot quicker. So it stays. Purchasing some more appropriate tyres is on the cards too.
 
Tom L said:
hoka said:
If someone figures out how to make a cable to connect it to a computer, I do have the software now

Took my display apart and traced out the display connector pinout (display side):

Will make some measurements later tonight after I get home.

Hey Tom L - did you end up taking those measurements?

Oh as speculation I would suggest that the PL line is battery return indicating that a circuit has been made (I am leaping to a conclusion that if the display isn't connected then the controller doesn't work)
 
Not yet. I'll do it in about 10 min.

I think you may be right regarding the PL line. Looking at this picture I took earlier http://i.imgur.com/bffEU54.jpg you can see a PNP BJT between P+ (emitter) and PL (collector).

This means we may have to power the display from the battery when programming? If so we're going to need a couple of connectors to break out the serial comms lines. Someone mentioned earlier in this thread where to get them.
 
Tom L said:
This means we may have to power the display from the battery when programming?

Maybe not. If your measurements pan out you may find the PL line just needs a jumper from the 5v rail or like.
 
Warren said:
nioko,

"I want a bike, but be faster. If I would want a scooter, I'd go for a scooter, throttle really is not what I want."

Having a throttle doesn't make it a scooter. Not pedaling, and pulling high amps makes it a scooter. I don't have freewheeling cranks. Any time the bike is powered, I am pedaling. Because I like to ride for hours at a time, I don't pull high amps. I ride it like a bicycle.

Ok, I take it back! But i guess what you are doing is a different riding profile, I do lots of stop and go. The reason to use an electric bike for what I do is simply to get to the office without sweating. I cannot imagine to do this without pas but with throttle (don't have the possibility to test it, as my bionx is PAS only).
 
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
This means we may have to power the display from the battery when programming?

Maybe not. If your measurements pan out you may find the PL line just needs a jumper from the 5v rail or like.

Nope. It needs a jumper to the battery volts. Power off PL = 0V, Power on PL = Battery volts.

Serial levels are 5V logic.

Here's a better picture of the display PCB if anyone is interested. http://i.imgur.com/Gkk6pJs.jpg

As soon as hoka comes through with the software I'll buy a connector and USB to TTL serial cable ( https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 )
 
Tom L said:
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
Nope. It needs a jumper to the battery volts. Power off PL = 0V, Power on PL = Battery volts.

Serial levels are 5V logic.

As soon as hoka comes through with the software I'll buy a connector and USB to TTL serial cable ( http://www.ebay.com/bhp/usb-to-ttl-serial-cable )

Nice.

I am still curious to see if the PL line eventually provides a logic level to one of the MCU pins.
 
Tom L said:
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
This means we may have to power the display from the battery when programming?

Maybe not. If your measurements pan out you may find the PL line just needs a jumper from the 5v rail or like.

Nope. It needs a jumper to the battery volts. Power off PL = 0V, Power on PL = Battery volts.

Serial levels are 5V logic.

Here's a better picture of the display PCB if anyone is interested. http://i.imgur.com/Gkk6pJs.jpg

As soon as hoka comes through with the software I'll buy a connector and USB to TTL serial cable ( https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718 )

Pm me your paypal account and I'll bung some funds your way to help you buy the cable.
 
dirkdiggler said:
My next problem is the error 21 showing up on the c961. That code is for the speed sensor. My speedo isn't working and the display shuts down after it doesn't register. The motor still functions, but I can't switch my assist levels without rebooting. The red light on the speed sensor is lighting up every time the magnet passes by. The magnet is within 5mm of the sensor. Any suggestions on that?

Dirk,

I had the same issue with my setup until I had the magnet in the wrong direction. In other words, the slot should be facing away from the sensor and the flush magnet facing it. Once I flipped mine everything worked ok.

Chuck
 
Geebee said:
Link to Australian retailer BBS01 $500 250w $550 350w http://www.value-e-bikes.com.au/ConversionKits.htm
The sites a mess atm but I have come across it for years when googling and he has distributors in some other states, not Tas :(
Havent seen a reply to the email sent on the weekend but a phone call might get a quicker response.

Geebee, any more news about the Value-e-bikes BBS01??

I know that Electro Bikes in Brisbane had a few BBS01 in but doesn't look like he has them up on his web site as kits, only hints at them being available by saying mid-mount e-bikes are $100 more than the hub motor e-bike versions http://www.electrobikes.com.au/?stg=3
 
jateureka said:
teslanv said:

Main difference between the displays:
963 shows Watts and 961 does not.
961 looks to have more PAS assist settings, but I think 9 is too many.
961 looks to have a dual clamp mount - to go over headstem, 961 looks to have a single clamp mount and maybe slightly smaller display?

Both manuals indicate that the speed limit can be adjusted between 12km/hr and 40km/hr but I'm assuming there is another limiter somewhere on the motor/controller itself as some motors are actually stamped with 'speed limit 25km/hr' and thus need dealer software to adjust?

What is the difference between the above and the C695 display that Greenspark was given?
 
I have one of these http://store.ckdevices.com/products/FTDI-Pro.html on order. So I will be able to test comms at 5v and 3.3v (I like the tx/rx swap switch too). There are a huge number of cheap 3.3v FTDI cables on ebay but very few 5v ones so if it works with 3.3v that will be a bonus.

Still looking for the 5 pin connector, without success so far. It is marked "Higo" on the plastic moulding but that's not helping.
 
Tom L said:
I have one of these http://store.ckdevices.com/products/FTDI-Pro.html on order. So I will be able to test comms at 5v and 3.3v (I like the tx/rx swap switch too). There are a huge number of cheap 3.3v FTDI cables on ebay but very few 5v ones so if it works with 3.3v that will be a bonus.

I buy a lot of my tinkering stuff from Tindie. Here is a similar chip: https://www.tindie.com/products/BBTech/usb-to-uart-module/

It may take a little time in the mail but the products work.
 
Rim21 said:
Tom L said:
I have one of these http://store.ckdevices.com/products/FTDI-Pro.html on order. So I will be able to test comms at 5v and 3.3v (I like the tx/rx swap switch too). There are a huge number of cheap 3.3v FTDI cables on ebay but very few 5v ones so if it works with 3.3v that will be a bonus.

I buy a lot of my tinkering stuff from Tindie. Here is a similar chip: https://www.tindie.com/products/BBTech/usb-to-uart-module/

It may take a little time in the mail but the products work.

They don't mention if the i/o is 3.3/5v switched, only Vcc. Plus the one I ordered has the tx/rx swap. Handy when you make a DCE/DTE mistake.
 
Looking for some advice, just about to buy my donor bike and I have the option of an Alfine 8 speed or and standard Shimano derailleur and 11-32 8 speed.
I'm leaning towards the Alfine, does anyone have any advice or real world knowledge of how these perform with the bbs02 750w.

This is for use on a daily commuter so it will be PAS mostly at moderate speed (35kph) but reliability is my main concern.

thanks in advance
 
Tom L said:
They don't mention if the i/o is 3.3/5v switched, only Vcc. Plus the one I ordered has the tx/rx swap. Handy when you make a DCE/DTE mistake.

Yep good points (should have read the specs more closely) - your find makes it very versatile and the price is very good
 
Guess who has bricked his motor controller serial interface? :cry:

Must have happened when I was making measurements last night.

I can switch PAS modes if I quickly change it before the "error 30" message pops up on the display. Throttle and PAS still work but no display other than "error 30".

RXD (Display -> Controller) is transmitting and is received by the controller (because I can change PAS modes before the error 30 time out).

TXD (Display <- Controller) Nothing coming from the controller (steady 5V at the TXD test pad on the display board and from the disconnected lead from the controller at the display. i.e. not a wiring loom connection problem or fault on the display PCB).

So, what to do now? My options seem to be:

1) Buy a replacement motor. This may be an option if I can get the motor only at a reasonable price.
2) Buy an external controller and CA v3. I may be able to use the PAS sensor with the CA.
3) Just use it without the display. I can set the PAS mode at power on and my Wattmeter is a better battery indicator.
4) Try de-potting the controller and repairing or replacing it.

Until I get a price or even a "yes it's available" on option (1) or (4) I guess I go with option (3). This means I won't be able to do any controller re-programming though.
 
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