EZip Trailz LS - 2013

Unless you mean that the spokes on the new wheel are "used" from being installed, I didn't plan on doing that. The old wheel will get new spokes. I'm talking about the new wheel, about making it stronger before it gets installed. If I can't replace the spokes individually, though, it's going on as-is. We used to have a LBS, but now I get to choose between a 'boutique' type Bicycle Emporium about 25 minutes away (they'd probably charge me as much as the wheel cost, if not more), and a more real bike shop 35 minutes away, in an area that gets congested with traffic. So I'm going to put the new wheel on and hope it was the freewheel abuse that mostly caused the early spoke failure, and when I get the new spokes I'll maybe take the old wheel to a bike co-op in another city, and learn to re-spoke it. Maybe. I really prefer riding to wrenching.
 
Anybody interested in the rack, battery, charger, throttle and controller from a currie kit? I bought the whole kit on amazon for $270.00 plus shipping which came out to a little over $292.00. It's a brand new kit but I'm just using the motor and mounting plate from it and possibly the switch. I'm running my motor at 36V with a 36V 500W 14A controller. I did go for one ride using the 24V controller just to test everything out but I used my 24V Skyline battery and not the sla so the sla is new and unused. I plugged the sla in right away and it's been sitting plugged in since I got the kit three days ago. I also have the Skyline battery and charger which I don't need if there's any interest. I figured I'd post this here seeing as how interested parties would be more likely to notice it.
 
Twice now, I've been climbing a really steep, long hill (and pedaling along with the motor) and the motor has, over the course of about 5 seconds, slowed and stopped. Both time I walked the bike up the hill, rode unpowered for a few minutes, then tried it again and it worked. Both times the motor was very warm, but NOT hot. Is there overheat protection in the bike that does this, or do I have a failing component?
 
Might be something as simple as the LVC function of the controller.
Shuts down if battery gets too low.
or
A thermal function of either the controller, the motor or the Battery BMS = a proper safety function.

See - Attack them hills!
 
It isn't the battery voltage. I'm using a 20AH Ping pack, and I never get a red light on the throttle. I do get yellow when climbing steep hills, but that's it. So as far as the controller is concerned, the voltage is fine. Here's hoping it's thermal protection in the controller.
 
2013 Trailz LS
13T mod
25.9V 25.92Ah upgraded oem battery pack (re-tasked new Laptop LiPo)

Did my 1st sustained riding ... 30+ miles yesterday.

Decided some changes were necessary

22-23mph = Problem!
I like to keep battery drain at less than .5C, but 22mph exceeds that and I find it difficult to restrain myself.
So, I will be building 22.2V 30.24Ah packs ... likely 2.
One for my 2013 Trailz LS and another for my2008 Trailz w/16T mod.
Calculations estimate a motor only speed of just <20mph = "legal".
More importantly, should drop full speed cruising noticeably below 15A - .5C.

OEM 34-14T 7speed is uncomfortably "wound out" sustaining above 20mph.
22.2V should fix nicely.

Oem tires are too smooth for dirty streets, will replace with Schwinn Kevlar belted "cruiser" tires.

Grips are a small hard horrors, will replace with comfy formed grips.

Other notes

OEM seat is surprisingly comfortable ... but I have a big comfy seat and suspension post ready and waiting ... if deemed necessary.

Occasional click ... from motor drivetrain under heavy throttle, will carefully inspect if does not "work itself out".

PAS button is inconvenient and PAS continues a long 3 seconds after pedaling stops ... makes slowing for turns ... awkward-"dangerous"?
Will likely disable or remove.

Very quiet ... especially compared to my 2008 Trailz!
 
I don't find the PAS setup to be a problem. The brake cutoff shuts the motor off as soon as I brake, and if I don't brake I don't mind the 'run-on'. I think it's something you just have to get used to, using the brake as a motor shutoff as well. Helpful Hint for the Newbies: always start in TAG mode, get it smoothly up to speed, then hold the red PAS/TAG button in for two seconds while still holding the throttle open. This will give you a smooth, seamless transition from TAG to PA, and extends the life of the freewheel. It's more awkward if you have the rocker switch instead of the button, but still possible.

I've got a Schwinn gel seat on my diamond frame EZIP, and the step-thru came with an extra-wide, possibly hand-made seat that's a bit hard but still comfortable.
 
DrkAngel said:
2013 Trailz LS
13T mod
25.9V 25.92Ah upgraded oem battery pack (re-tasked new Laptop LiPo)

Did my 1st sustained riding ... 30+ miles yesterday.

Decided some changes were necessary

22-23mph = Problem!
I like to keep battery drain at less than .5C, but 22mph exceeds that and I find it difficult to restrain myself.
So, I will be building 22.2V 30.24Ah packs ...
Gitten' er done!
1 22.2V 30.24Ah pack built!
Used the newer black eZip case ... had to chisel out a bunch of "ribs".
Tested first with 2 bricks of 3s12p = 22.2V 25.92Ah.
Cruised almost precisely at 20mph. - 2013 eZip LS w/13T mod.
Ran 2 directions, on the level path and topped out just below 20mph.
So ... added the extra 6s2p to get the full 30.24Ah..

Now I have to mod up another MeanWell S-150-24 as a dedicated 25V 6A charger.
Give me a chance to install one of the 24V fans I received.

Ran the battery down to ~23V and am recharging with an iMax B8 now.
 
Occasional click ... from motor drivetrain under heavy throttle, will carefully inspect if does not "work itself out

Probably the freewheel for the motor side. My diamond frame was doing it right before spokes broke at about 1600 miles, and step-through bike is now starting to do it at what I'd guess to well be over a thousand miles. OIling helps a tiny bit, but not much.
 
Shifter is a horror!
Wrapped with cheap duct tape and didn't hurt so bad.

After respokeing an "X-Treme XB-300Li"'s rear hub motor, (218mm 13ga SS), I took it for a test run.
It had a Shimano thumbshifter on the right side and it felt very comfortable to use even while using twist throttle.

I will be replacing the left side crappy shifter and the oem w/led throttle with a thumbshifter and throttle without leds.
I will add a proper volt meter and move speedometer-computer to left side. (Is polarized and fades if I tilt my head, left side will fix conflict with my sunglasses.)

I anticipate a vast improvement in comfort and enjoyability.
Will update with results and pictures.

Shimano TX30 Tourney Shifter Set < $20
 
eZip, modded with 13T and 25.9V Lithium, pushes along at 22mph+ ...
A bit too fast for economy and legality.
Rather than going the 16T freewheel mod, I have decided to try the 11T motor sprocket.

Gearing ratios match the 16T mod nearly identically.

9-11-13T 16T.jpg

See also - 11T sprocket and 1st Thoughts
 
You may have gotten a bad shifter. The one on my 2013 diamond frame works great - smooth, easy and accurate. The one on the step-thru frame bike is terrible. Replacing it is high on the list when I refurbish that bike next Winter.
 
DrkAngel said:
eZip, modded with 13T and 25.9V Lithium, pushes along at 22mph+ ...
A bit too fast for economy and legality.
Rather than going the 16T freewheel mod, I have decided to try the 11T motor sprocket.

Gearing ratios match the 16T mod nearly identically.



See also - 11T sprocket and 1st Thoughts

Local Walmart has this on sale for $350. Looks like a good wife bike. How is the torque on this thing for hill climbing? (stock) The only way I could justify it is if she could climb a big hill by our house with "normal" pedal input. That keeps her from riding her non-ebike.

My only point of reference for power is my bike with a small geared hub motor (have run at anywhere from 400-900w input) which bogs down pretty hard going up that hill even with a lot of pedaling. Curious how the torque at low-mid speed compares on this Currie brushed motor.
 
bluovalguy said:
Local Walmart has this on sale for $350. Looks like a good wife bike. How is the torque on this thing for hill climbing? (stock) The only way I could justify it is if she could climb a big hill by our house with "normal" pedal input. That keeps her from riding her non-ebike.

My only point of reference for power is my bike with a small geared hub motor (have run at anywhere from 400-900w input) which bogs down pretty hard going up that hill even with a lot of pedaling. Curious how the torque at low-mid speed compares on this Currie brushed motor.
Stock eZip has a 450 motor output at ~7-8mph.
Gearing mods can push this peak output to higher or lower speeds.

Looks like your geared hub motor is a 250w? (250w rated - motor output)
eZip Trailz might give 200% the torque.

Oh no!
Looks like Currie is discontinuing the SLA equipped Trailz!

Now available are the Trailz, with 9.6Ah Li-ion battery for ~$749.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Looks like I'll have to pick up a new bike on closeout somewhere, just to put away...
Aug 2014
eZip Eco-Ride 2 available from Amazon.com and Walmart.com for $499.
Improvements over eZip Trailz:
Aluminum frame
21 (3x7) Speed (?)
Suspension post
Alloy rear hub
High rise handlebars
Stainless Steel spokes

Still SLA battery ...
 
I thought that bike had a 250 watt motor, though...?

EDIT: looks like it used to be 250 watt, and is now 450. If I had the cash I'd buy one (but not from Walmart or Amazon) but since I have two Trailzes right now, I'll watch for a bargain with a dead pack.
 
An improvement in almost every component!
Just needs Lithium upgrade!

0069402707714_500X500.jpg


Eco-Ride 2 description

"Item Description
Top of Page
The new Eco-Ride 2 is the perfect choice for recreational riders. It has a comfortable rider position, which takes all the pressure off your arms, shoulders and derriere. By simply twisting the throttle, it pulls you up hills effortlessly. You'll love how it's upright riding position and power ensures comfortable riding while watching all the miles slip by almost before you notice! Simply put, the Eco-Ride 2 delivers, "all the pleasure of cycling, with none of the pain." The Eco-Ride 2 is equipped with a powerful Currie Electro-Drive system that provides plenty of torque to pull you up a long hill or through a headwind. The battery pack can easily be removed for charging or swapping. It can travel 15-22 miles with normal pedaling or about 10-15 miles with no pedaling at all at speeds of 15+ mph. You can easily double that range by adding an optional second battery pack. If you want to ride a bike and want to do so comfortably, just ride the Eco-Ride 2!

eZip Eco-Ride 2 SLA LSF Electric Bike, Black:

Frame: powerful Currie Electro-Drive system; aluminum 6061, rack, bottle and fender bosses
Forks: alloy cast suspension, fender eyelets
Motor: rear hub mounted 450W
Battery: sealed lead acid 24V10Ah 240Wh
Display LED battery level display
Headset: VP 1-1/8
Top speed: 15 mph/25 kph motor
Range: 15-22 miles/24-35 km with normal pedaling
Shift lever SRAM gripshift
Front derailleur
Rear derailleur: Shimano Altus
Cassette or freewheel Shimano freewheel 14-34T, 7-speed
Chain KMC Z72
Pedals: resin platform with non-slip tread
Hubs: ft/rear alloy with w/QR front
Rim alloy 7X
Spokes: stainless
Tires: Innova siped design, 26x2.0
Brakes: alloy linear pull
Brake lever: alloy with motor cut-off switch
Handlebar: steel comfort rise design
Stem: Promax alloy, adjustable angle
Grips: Velo dual density
Saddle: comfort design
Seatpost: Promax alloy suspension microadjust
Accessories: kickstand, rack
Requires one 24v10a battery pack (battery and charger included)
Assembly: adult assembly required
Dimensions: 68"L x 27"W x 46"H "

Descriptions vary on "speeds"
Not sure if 7 or 15 or 21
Walmarts "15 speeds" seems unlikely.
Picture seems to support 7 speeds, no front derailleur.

Walmart

Amazon
 
Oops!
2013 eZip Trailz LS ... blew a controller ...
Not so bad!
Been picking up various controllers and chose one 24V with 50V caps.
24V 500w, and less than $20.
Now - $12.59 delivered!

Had to adapt all connectors except motor.
Screwed up my speedometer sensor due to throttle circuit mishap.

But .... works fine.
Lost PAS but didn't care much for it anyhow.

Had to try it ...
Popped in my 33.3V 31.2Ah (36.6V = 4.05Vx9s) LiCo pack ... and ... zoom!
Likely to work at 37V (42V) pack also.

Damn!
Gotta fix my speedometer!
 
Ordered up a few 24V 28A 500w $13 controllers.
Functional replacements with 22.2V through 37V capability.
(Controller does still limit current as voltage drops near 20V under throttle, good for 24V pack but annoying with 22.2V pack!)
Excellent addition for re-gearing re-volting possibilities.
Will keep a couple modded for direct replacements.
Will likely cut cables from bad controller and connect to new controller with Deans T plug for battery connection and micro Deans plugs for other connections.
Will color code for quick easy transfer.

Oh, these cheap controllers also have a key lock connector and brake light connector ... needs ~24-36V capable brake light tho.

OEM controller on 2013 eZip Trailz LS was a 24V 35A controller.
Seemed much more durably constructed.
Full size circuit board with more FETs and the bottom of the circuit is filled with epoxy(?).
Replacement is 24V 28A, which seems comparable with 25.9V pack and safer for durability with 33.3V pack.

Durability of cheap replacement is undetermined, with possibly 30 miles from 25.9V pack and possibly 20 miles from 33.3V pack, so far.
 
2013 eZip Trailz LS

This bike was upgraded with a 13T motor sprocket and pushed 22-23mph from 25.9V pack.
33.3V definitely exceeds that, can't move pedals fast enough to keep up and motor whirs at an increased pitch.
Will re-gear for more modest speed.
With my multiple eZips I can quick swap multiple wheel - motor combinations between various eBikes.

Combinations include:
Status MS WS . 24V speed (Motor Sprocket & Wheel freewheel Sprocket)
OEM - 09T 20T 16mph = 23mph @37V
UPG - 09T 16T 20mph = 27mph @37V
UPG - 11T 20T 20mph = 27mph @37V
UPG - 13T 20T 22mph = 25 ++ mph@33.3V
UPG - 09T 22T 14+mph = ~20mph @33.3V designated "Torquer" or "Heavy Hauler"

20mph is the oem chainring (44T) Wheel sprocket (14T), reasonable pedal assist speed limit.
The DNS 11T freewheel sprocket will push that to ~25mph.
My 30mph capable will have an upgrade 48T chainring and the 11T.
30mph requires a minimum 44.4V through the eZip motor ...
I intend on running at 20mph "legal" by placing a resistor or pot in line on the throttle return voltage and adjust for 20 mph full throttle cruise.
Above 20mph ... I will switch or momentary contact button a bypass that will allow full power!
Yes ... I will label it TURBO!

Considering the various pack voltages, I will, of necessity, install proper volt meters on the bars.
With LiCo, they do provide a reasonably accurate fuel level gauge.
Throttle voltage leds were pitiful, even at "proper" oem pack voltages!
I would prefer LCD but will probably settle for led, polarized film improves daytime visibility greatly!
 
Oops, 33.3V pack burnt out throttle level leds.
Oh well ... replacing with smaller non led throttle and 7 spd click shift on right side.

33.3V 31.2Ah pack measured a 18.96AH charge from 3.68V average to 4.02V average cell charge.
After setting since Winter I did perform a balance, equalizing all cells at 4.05V. (Was within 2/100s V but optimized anyhow)

My object is to ensure extreme lifespan for my Snow Beast battery.
Replacing Snow Beasts OEM 20T with 22T, wheel sprocket, for increased torque ... don't need 20 mph+ speed through the snow!

I will build additional 33.3V packs!
 
It's about that time of year when eZip has clearance sales.
Here are price tracking links for the most promising models.

eZip Trailz SLA might show up at greatly reduced price!
(Looks like SLA is being discontinued!!!)

Eco-Ride 2 price tracking

amazon.png


Trailz Commuter - Lithium
Walmart - $749 9/14
Amazon - price tracking

amazon.png
 
I can get a NIB black Trailz diamond frame SLA for $300 (no tax) from a private seller here, but I'm not sure I want to buy another new bike yet unless it's aluminum. One question about that Eco Ride 2: is there a PAS mode, or did they drop it? The description mentions TAG only. PAS has plenty of flaws, but it's handy for me as a sort of cruise control, to spare my throttle hand...
 
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