New Bafang Crank-Drives

dumbass said:

spinningmagnets: You may be right..I know I would rather see Loctite used then a heavy press fit that might effect the operation of the one way bearing.

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My experience is that Loctite is too much used by artisans but which I've not seen in manufactured products except on bolt threads. It is an easy solution that mostly fails or adds nothing. If the interference fit is correct, and this can be reliably calculated, it adds nothing. Loctite allows you to widen the tolerance so that when a fit is marginal, it is a solution. However, too often, the fit is too loose for it to make the difference. The common scenario is a shaft that is damaged, perhaps from a seized bearing spinning, or you made something the wrong size. Rather than replacing it, the temptation is to use a bit of Loctite, but whenever I've succumbed to the temptation it proved to be wishful thinking.

tahustvedt said:

Test fitting the CNC-cut bamboo battery box on my Bafang-bike. Not sure if it look better or worse with the box. I guess it will look better when I get rid of the carrier.

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Nice, a bamboo deck on the rack might tie it togther and prove usefull, IMO.

Ken Taylor said:

dumbass said:

spinningmagnets: You may be right..I know I would rather see Loctite used then a heavy press fit that might effect the operation of the one way bearing.

Click to expand...

My experience is that Loctite is too much used by artisans but which I've not seen in manufactured products except on bolt threads. It is an easy solution that mostly fails or adds nothing. If the interference fit is correct, and this can be reliably calculated, it adds nothing. Loctite allows you to widen the tolerance so that when a fit is marginal, it is a solution. However, too often, the fit is too loose for it to make the difference. The common scenario is a shaft that is damaged, perhaps from a seized bearing spinning, or you made something the wrong size. Rather than replacing it, the temptation is to use a bit of Loctite, but whenever I've succumbed to the temptation it proved to be wishful thinking.

Click to expand...

Actually I wasn't talking about a common thread locking type of Loctite but one intended for this purpose like #638 or #640. In the case of #640 it is designed to significantly magnify the holding strength of a press fitted cylindrical parts. Using the correct product on any job is key to the success of the project.

In any case I'd be interested to know if the brass gear runs as quietly as the plastic gear does. Please keep us informed on this.

Bob

Hello!
Sorry for my poor English, it's not my native language. But I try my best. This is really a great and an amazing forum!
I'm new here. It took a while until I had enough information to decide if I need a rear or mid engine. But since that time I have followed all threads concerning the BBS02.
I have already learned many things and made ​​decisions, for example what accus to use.

There are some problems to solve, especially the chainline. I have a 73mm bottom bracket on my Specialized Stumpjumper and there is no material that can be removed, otherwise the engine would touch the rear strut.
I'm thinking about switching to 7x to get a little further to the right side. For example, with SRAM Dual Drive 3x7. This would also have the advantage that the 7x chains would be a bit stronger.
Does anyone know how stable the Dual Drives Hub and its freewheel are? Or what hub would be suitable for the power of a BBS02 750W? I have an old Deemax hub(2007) which I don't use anymore. I think this one would be quite stable.
I'll probably test the engine once extensively before I will make myself thoughts about the size of the front sprocket.

Is there anything else I need to know or something that I should organize before ordering the engine?

Has anyone ever measured the crank of a Bafangs BBS02? I would be interested about the length and weight.

Anyway...maybe it's better to wait for the new controller with 9 mosfets, hopefully it will be programmable with the available software. What do you think about this?

Sam, Did you ever test these?

Tom

samsavvas said:

t3sla said:

Bafang introduced me to a Czech company during Shanghai cycle and we had a long talk about the excellent product they developed.
http://gearsensor.com/
It both well engineering and design
-IP water rating
-MCU for delay settings
-Plug n play

Only thing it needs is a better mold for mounting to OEM frames, but for now zip-ties work.

Anyway I was going to do some sales for this, but no need for me to add margin and time when you can just go directly to the source :wink:
info@gearsensor.com

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These were discussed a few dozen pages back in the thread. I followed them up somewhere and recall being a bit dismayed at what seemed an inordinately high price. Have you investgated where you might buy the sensors from? Apart from cosmetics, how do you think they might differ from the basic brake cable sensors that several Chinese venfors sell?

Savvas.

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I have two more gearsensor units for derailleur systems. *Derailleur model only NOT IGH!!* I had two more testers lined up but they turned out not to have BBSxx drives. I agreed as a good gesture to get these in the hands of USA users to report back on. You pay
flat rate small box shipping USA only address. I ate the shipping on the first one but I'm not doing this as a business and I'm a retired gimp on a pension. Just helping out a fellow Czech. PM ONLY IF YOU WILL DO AN IMMEDIATE INSTALL AND HONEST EVALUATION. SLACKERS NEED NOT APPLY. :wink: If it works out you just saved $30.

tomjasz said:

Sam, Did you ever test these?

com

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Hi,
no I didn't as the price rather put me off. And reading some past posts it seems pretty easy to create your own sensor arrangements. I have purchased some of the brake cable sensors from em3ev which I'll try out when I have time. I have just purchased a BBS 350w for my main commuting bike, a specially equipped Surly LHT. I currently have the standard Bafang levers installed with Shimano XT V-brakes. Although I don't think the standard levers are specifically designed for v-brakes they seem to work ok though they feel a bit spongy. I wasn't thinking about an ebike when I bought this frame - I'm wishing I had bought a disk frame now! Maybe sometime in the future.
Sam

Brake levers are designed to work with v-brakes and cable activated disc brakes and I have hooked up to both types. There are better levers out there but if properly adjusted they give ok braking power.

I just made a new harness for my bike to eliminate the bulky and way too long original cable. I made a pinout chart before I started to aid with wiring, which others might find useful. I used Cat5 cable, and used brass tubing, copper wire and hot glue to fabricate new connectors.

maxwell92036 said:

Brake levers are designed to work with v-brakes and cable activated disc brakes and I have hooked up to both types. There are better levers out there but if properly adjusted they give ok braking power.

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Although I am yet to actually test the long BBSxx levers with V brakes on the road, I think that you are probably correct in terms of 'OK braking power'. If I have any concern, it's probably more with what seems like a slightly 'spongy' feel compared with what I am accustomed too with short-lever 'V-specific' levers.

Just for the record, I think it's worth observing that the long 'motorcycle' levers that come with the BBSxx kits appear to be a hybrid design. That is, the pivot centre to cable end distance - about 30mm - is about half-way between those commonly cited as typical of 'road' and 'off-road' (or 'caliper' and 'V/disk') levers - about 21mm and 42mm respectively.

Of perhaps more interest to me with this new installation, with Shimano XT 'V' brakes and rims which I think are about 22mm width, the actual cable pull is about 15mm, typical of that cited for V-brakes. I also have these same BBSxx levers on another bike with 22mm rims and double-pivot Tektro callipers (57mm arms). They work well with that installation with quite acceptable feel and leverage.

Savvas.

samsavvas said:

Although I am yet to actually test the long BBSxx levers with V brakes on the road, I think that you are probably correct in terms of 'OK braking power'.

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I've used these for a long time on an Aprilia and I'd second the ''OK braking power" opinion. The negative is that brake adjustment is critical. You need to get minimal clearance between the brake rubbers and rims so as not to run out of lever travel. To avoid rubbing on the Aprilia this requires careful adjustment of the spring tension on each side to balance the caliper arms and regular cleaning and readjustment when there is the slightest change in caliper pivot friction from dirt, poor lubrication etc. I found the original Tektro "short-lever 'V-specific' levers" much better but they had the wrong switches.

On a road machine these brake levers are the opposite. I'm currently running them with Shimano 105 rim brakes and they work fine but I barely move the levers to apply the brakes.

Introducing "The Lance"
Ride in the breakaway without it costing a testicle.

Combining natural materials with sophisticated control and instrumentation. Featuring a lightweight teak frame, carbon fibre lugs and eight computers in a radio mesh network for smooth control and detailed analytics.

"Road racing imitates life, the way it would be without the corruptive influence of civilization. When you see an enemy lying on the ground, what’s your first reaction? ... you kick him to death." - Tim Krabbé

With the Lance it's possible! It fills the gaps left by age, inability, genetic slowness, weak legs, too much beer, insufficient training and general sloth.

Ken Taylor said:

Introducing "The Lance"
Ride in the breakaway without it costing a testicle.

Combining natural materials with sophisticated control and instrumentation. Featuring a lightweight teak frame, carbon fibre lugs and eight computers in a radio mesh network for smooth control and detailed analytics.

"Road racing imitates life, the way it would be without the corruptive influence of civilization. When you see an enemy lying on the ground, what’s your first reaction? ... you kick him to death." - Tim Krabbé

With the Lance it's possible! It fills the gaps left by age, inability, genetic slowness, weak legs, too much beer, insufficient training and general sloth.

Click to expand...

Brilliant bike. I plan to make a wooden frame some day.

Ken Taylor said:

Introducing "The Lance"
Ride in the breakaway without it costing a testicle.

...(Pic)...

With the Lance it's possible! It fills the gaps left by age, inability, genetic slowness, weak legs, too much beer, insufficient training and general sloth.

Click to expand...

Ken, I love the style of the introduction...!

And the bike looks like it might be pretty good too!

Cheers

Stunning!

My plans for a new chainwheel. I will make it out of several parts to save on material cost, as I would have to remove about 1 kg og aluminum if I were to make it in one piece. It will be 7075-T6, except for the spacers, which will be whatever I have in the right thickness. I will move the chainline in from 51.5 mm now (measured) to ideally 43.5 mm, but hopefully at least 45 mm. There should be enough room for 43.5 with a 10s chain according to my measurements.

Before the questions come, I'm sorry to say can not make these to order as that would be too much for me to take on, but I have ideas on how one can make something similar with off the shelf components. I made some measurements, and the original chainwheel can even be used to move the chainline in by ~3mm by cutting the spider off with a dremel and installing it to a new chainguard via the five original chainguard screw holes, for example. By grinding down the pinion housing a little it can be moved even farther in. This was my plan at first.

t3sla said:

New model, but no 68mm shaft mount.
OEM

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Hey I new but looking for a battery that looks half decent and saw this one.
Can you tell me where you saw this or what it is ??
cheers
R

I am thinking of buying the BBS01, and was wondering if anyone have tried the Tektro e-bike hydrolic brakes?
Is it the same plug or do we need to change the plug?

Anyone know if the BBT version is coming with torque sensor?

Yes the Tektro brakes use a two wire switch, the bbso1 uses 3 wire hall switch. You can solder small jumper pins to the wires of the Tektro brake and insert them into the GND and Brake signal pins if you wish to preserve the connector. Or cut connector off and solder the two brake wires to the black and blue wires on the bbso1 cable. Avoid using the red 5volt wire.

Tektro Dorado HD-E710 brakes are awesome!
They are specifically made for ebikes and have larger
Calipers than standard and a .5mm thicker rotor (2.3mm as opposed to 1.8mm for standard), as well as
More robust pads.

You could also sacrifice the stock bbs01 brake arms and remove the hall sensor and magnet from them and mount them appropriately on your original brake handles. Worked a charm with shimano hydraulic but if there is an easily available option which is providing the same stopping power then that's the best (but not cheapest) alternative.

Finished my chain ring assembly. I'm quite pleased with the look. I didn't have countersunk bolts for the ten outer bolts, so I just inserted some regular allen bolts for now. It'll clean up more with countersunk bolts.

The new chain line is 43.5 mm, which is perfect for my road wheels. It weight 268 g total, compared to 354 g for the original chainring and guard.

The bamboo battery box has been laquered as well, so it's not too far off from the honey leather on the bike. It's coming together nicely. I'm stoked.

Very nicely done. A great solution to getting the chainline to what you want.

What sized chain ring did you use and is this an off the shelf item? I would like to do a similar thing but with a 44 tooth chain ring.

Love the bamboo battery case too.

Thanks. This is 46 t. I made it from scratch from 1/8" 7075-T6 aluminum. I could have used something like this and milled away the inside, for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271272418970

I recently found this chainring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261425059545 It has an integrated chainguard and looks like it's ideal for a home made Bafang chainring conversion. Just cut off the arms with a dremel and bolt to a home made chainguard through threaded holes in the Litepro chainguard edge. Here's a better picture:


OOPS. I linked to the wrong wheel. Corrected.

@ tahustvedt:

Nice work, thanky for sharing this. I like the look and this is exactly what I need because I have a 73mm bottom bracket and a shitty chainline.
Did I understand this right? The "spider" and spacers are self-made and you used bolts in order to get the chainwheel in place?
At the moment that would not be easy for me to make since I do not have access to lathe and milling machine anymore. But I have a drill-press and good files