Recent content by 8o887

Figured it out: If the PAS is set to zero on the display, the throttle won't work by itself. In all this time, I never encountered that issue. I suppose, by luck, I always had it randomly set to something else and rarely had reason to alter it.

Hi, all. I hope the answer to this is obvious to someone, but it's defeated me so far: Simple set up: Hub motor, KT controller, LCD3, throttle, no PAS - all was fine when I switched off last night. Now: Throttle not working, except when 'walk mode' is on by holding the 'down' button - then I can...

The switch in the + lead? My instinct would be to put it in the return lead, to remove the 50V from the switch cables. Was thinking about a handlebar-mounted rocker...can you elaborate the logic? Thanks.

Hi all, Can't find discussion of this relatively simple, though potentially important, question: I've read advice that a cheap standard DC-DC (eg 50V -> 12V) converter can be connected directly across the battery when the controller can't supply a couple of amps for peripherals. This seems to...

Hi, Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of the kind used with Arduinos, that draws less than 10mA when triggered. As far as I know, that should be fine: Quiescent current 5 mA Trigger current 2-4 mA Maximum current 190 mA...

I need to wire up some lights that will only work when the bike is on. There is no battery voltage or lights connector on the controller, so I thought it might be ok to use the 5V on the throttle to switch a relay to run them from the battery. Any thoughts? Also, any idea what this blue/black...

Thanks very much for the quick reply! I was planning to tap into the motor connector. Do you happen to know if there are voltage spikes above 5V on those lines when the motor is running, or are they already filtered by an upstream capacitor somewhere?

As far as I can tell, it should be easy to measure the angular velocity of the motor by triggering interrupts on an Arduino directly from one of the Hall sensor leads to the controller. I'm wondering why this is not one of the standard ways of doing it (or if it actually is)?

HI all, Apologies if this is dealt with elsewhere. After replacing a failed controller (with one that was promised to be SW900-compatible, but really isn't), I decided to wire in the lights to the (battery voltage) 'lights' output of the controller, through a 48V->12V DC-DC converter...