Recent content by bigchief

Thanks for the advice, I got a hot air gun on Amazon and it was great for desoldering the pegs. The only problem was when clearing out the PCB holes with my plunger-type solder sucker, the plunger "jerked" when I hit the button and the shock knocked an SMD resistor off the board that was a few...

Bumping since I was scrolled off the first page and could still use some help. Is there any reason I can't butt-solder my new mosfets directly to the leads I clipped? Those old leads are in there really good and I don't want to risk burning up the PCB trying to get them out, so can I get away...

I cut off the broken FETs, even in this state the pins are very difficult to desolder and remove the excess solder (a lot of the PCB is coating in TIM paste). Is there any reason I can't just solder the new FET leads directly to the remaining leads from the old FETs? The old FET leads widen at...

Those do look awesome, it looks like they can handle almost 3 times the continuous amps... my battery wires would catch fire long before the mosfets would blow this time around :) Where would be the best place to buy them from with fast shipping? Arrow seems to give 1-day shipping on $50+...

I got home and tested all the Kelly MOSFETS by touching their leads with multimeter continuity tester, using this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkWy1EirEu8 All four of the circled fets are shorted, across any/all of their 3 leads. The rest seem to be OK. Stupid question, but is this...

I opened up the controller and the potting material and thermal paste were a mess but the MOSFETs seem easy enough to desolder and replace now that they are exposed. They say "RJK0882" and then "ON57", I'm not sure if that's letter O or Zero. I don't see a link to buy these MOSFET stateside...

You were right, and I was soooo close, but I think I broke something. I'm staring at the weak torque wiring, which was green-green blue-blue yellow-yellow. I'm not colorblind either. But I swapped a bunch of the phase wires around (apparently blue-yellow green-blue yellow-green) and suddenly I...

I checked again and verified that I have continuity through all the wiring from the controller/wheel/battery, and that all phase/hall wiring is correct. I also did as some Youtube video recommended and used the multimeter to measure 20k ohms from B+ on the controller to the different phase wires...

Yeah, it's gotta be something with the phase/hall. When I sat down for a while now and thought about it, I recalled that with the original controller (much weaker than the Kelly controller, on paper) I was hitting the throttle while not on the bike, and the torque nearly ripped the bike out of...

I went and soldered the motor Hall sensors instead of relying on the JST connection. Then I temporarily increased the fuse rating on my battery so it doesn't blow so quickly, and tried riding around. The motor still feels "gritty" with little torque at low speed; it makes "click" noises many...

double post

Gotcha, I dug up a second throttle in my parts bin to compare against (same as this eBay listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/202731390785). I guess they are both Hall Sensors, because if I plug a multimeter to the black and middle pins while the throttles are hooked up to the Kelly controller and...

The red LED does not throw an error code. I'll try soldering the phase wires instead of relying on the JST connectors when I get home.

I couldn't figure out how to set the 48v LVC on the controller included with my cheap ebike kit to 36v, so I decided to get a used Kelly KBS48101L-L Controller instead, which I snagged from an eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/183888487486 I successfully connected this Kelly controller to...

This thing is really kicking my butt since I'm reduced to trial and error. I took out the SMD for the 2000 and 2200 ohm resistors and replaced them both with higher and lower resistance. I also took out the 25k resistor and replaced that with higher and lower resistance. None of these value...