Recent content by dcuste

Thanks everybody for the help. I'm writing this update just in case anybody is curious how this saga ended. I did buy the connector suggested by e-beach, but decided to try equalizing all the cells before installing it. So I charged and then drained the whole battery very slowly over a few days...

Yup. That looks like my BMS diagram. I didn't even think to put a connector in the leads to the BMS. The original BMS was hard wired in and I thought that is just how it's done. I can easily cut it in.

That makes sense to me, but I would have expected the shut down would have occurred while I was running the maximum current on the ride. The last 2 miles of my ride was at about 300 watts and when I turned it off all appeared normal. It wasn't until I tried to power it up again, did the BMS shut...

Thanks for the quick reply. I have not tried it out again for a second time yet. Connections have all been triple checked and look good. The BMS did not get hot. I am not 100% sure the cell groups are good. I did put the battery under a small load of maybe 50 watts and didn't see any drops. I...

I replaced my old fried BMS and then took the bike out for a 5 mile ride and the battery (13s5p all Samsung 35E cells) was working great. Plenty of power (up to around 1600 watts max) and voltage was good. I turned off the display and let it sit for about 15 minutes. When I tried to turn it back...

Here is a place that sells that kind of stuff. https://www.omega.co.uk/pptst/STRAIN_GAGE_ADHESIVES.html

Good to know about the wattmeter. You're right about not complaining. I really enjoy riding it. I opened the battery. There are probably 65 cells. I know for sure there are more than 60 and less than 70 cells. So it pretty much has to be 65. Not sure what the capacity of each cell is but they...

I bought this ebike on ebay from a guy that bought them from a China manufacturer. I wouldn't call him respectablepm but the price was right. It hasn't been cold when I ride or charge. Maybe 70 to 75.

Thanks for your input. I haven't measured the discharge as I don't have the equipment needed. I plugged the charger into a kill-a-watt meter. I'm pretty confident that it is accurate. The total wh measured jive with the current rating and time it was charging. The battery is made with...

My relatively new battery is rated 48v and 17.5ah. That works out to 840wh. But when I charge the battery from cut-off voltage up to max voltage, the charger only consumes 550wh. Is it normal for battery manufacturing companies to use a bogus capacity rating like this, or do I have a battery...

I have a new 48v 17.5ah battery with an internal BMS. As far as I can tell everything is working as it should except the BMS is warmer than I would expect from a device that is supposed to be 99% efficient. It stsys cool during charging and very light discharge, but if I'm pulling 1000w for more...

I'm using a 48v battery. How about this one? https://americas.rsdelivers.com/product/infineon/irf100b202/irf100b202-n-channel-mosfet-97-a-100-v-hexfet-3/1300935 Is 11ns fast enough? Think I put 12 of these in a KT controller, I'd be able to drive a 1500 hub motor?

I searched, but couldn't find Irbf3307zbf. Not even on rs-online. Is that an obsolete part? I don't know any of the specifics and don't know what "using 10s" refers to either.

I need to replace the MOSFETs in a KT controller. The number on them is 11ON7F6 GFO84 MB CHN 736. I can't find any with this number. Does anybody know how to determine a good replacement for these?

Again, thanks for all your help. I didn't explain what I was seeing very well. But from what you pointed out I redid the connections and it appears all is well. I'm getting my 5v supply from USB 1.55 amp supply. I now have the controller plugged into the rest of the hall wires with just the...