Recent content by Easy_Rider

Are your battery cells assembled into plastic cavities, or just connected to eachother with glue? Do you know, with which materail the cells are welded to eachother? Pure Nickel, or Hilumin?

:bigthumb: :bigthumb: :bigthumb: ...and in addition...if they use Nickel as welding material, the limitation is around 10A-12A on every parallel connection. Only with Copper you can conduct more current...but 2P with 50E? you might be able to boil eggs on the battery?! :roll:

I would not say it is impossible, I would just say it is complicated and might be expensive. You would need between the battery and the solar panel something like this...

I used to be a passionate RC-Freak and gained some experience on Li-polymer at the time, where 18650 could reach maybe 4C the most. :mrgreen: I remember trying to assemble a battery with CGR18650CH for some races...that was really desperating... But in the meanwhile we have battery cells out...

Of course I did and if you read my post, you can see my explanation. I fit my battery to the Motor and controller I use and to the landscape and season I´d like to drive. And as long as I am 80 Kg. battery + motor are around 7 Kg. more, and I just ride for fun (no heavy weights in addition) on...

I agree with you as well Matador! :wink: The reason, why I bought a frog battery, based on the 21700 M50 from LG Chem, is because I use at 48V a motor (Tongsheng TSDZ2) with 250W. On 13S3P I have around 1,80A - 2,20A CDR on every cell...and I ride my bike in the city...and it is really flat...

I think the INR21700-40T is very interesting in small dimensions of batteries like 10S2P, or 10S3P. I daubt it, if the 50E, or M50 will have more Wh at this configuration on 250W-350W motors?!

I am not surprised you were offered to have this bike for free :cry: Most probably the first owner had the same problem like you have now...find a battery!!! Many of those eBikes with inframe-batteries are IMO one-way eBikes...

Found a very small one here: https://www.ebay.de/itm/ENERpower-Softpack-Akku-Li-Ion-36V-10S2P-30Q-6Ah-Pedelec-Range-Extender-5x4-DC/264115160058?hash=item3d7e7d83fa:g:HsAAAOSw6eRcLO-q Assembled with INR18650-30Q And here is a 10S1P with INR21700-30T to be able to carry according to the...

I don´t know, how the INR21700-50E are doing, I guess the same like the LG INR21700 M50? But if you are into life-cycle, I guess the INR21700-40T will last for longer time. The discharge current would not harm them at all, and they are better on fast charging according to the specification of SDI.

Many people read and think, wow this battery cell is used by Tesla, must be good also for my eBike... So if you wish to drive with 7104 cells battery with over 80 kWh you can go for that :mrgreen: , otherwise a battery for an eBike has completly other Challenges. It must have enough power...

Usually those 21700 have a cut-off-voltage of 2.5V. Most of the BMS have a cut-off at 3V and from my experience with a battery US18650V3 from Sony (now Murata) I used it for over 6 years, so around 1200-1400 cycles (not complete cycles). The battery lost over the time around 20% of its capacity...

26650 in a little frog? with 48V? With LiFePo4? you need 15S so maybe enough place for 2P?! With around 5Ah not enough Wh to reach the next super market :D

What do you understand with "decent"? :mrgreen: My first battery was based on Sony Konion US18650V3 and it last at least 6 years (around 800 cycles), but the energy density was too low. My next battery was based on the INR18650-30Q and was and is still great (even at the winter time). My new...

In 14S5P you have on 20A discharge exactly 4A peak current on every battery. Both NCR20700B, INR21700-50E, or even LG Chem INR21700 M50 (which I have in my battery) are suitable. The 20A Charging current is too high for life cycle. I would not exceed, if I were you, the 0.3C for the battery...