Recent content by electric_nz

Yes some of them have little to none installed.

These seem to be commonly found in e-bike controllers, are pretty durable and don’t seem to have many issues. They can be improved by adding thermal paste to improve heat transfer. I think my common unmodified 12 FET KT 40a controller uses these and barely gets warm.

The number of Amps will be printed on the controller. If it really is 38A, you will need at something like a 5p (5parallel strings) battery with high power 18650 cells capable of 10A or more each. For the budget, look at a 14S 5P 18650 battery using high power brand name cells like Samsung 25R...

It might be one cell has gone bad, and the BMS is shutting down to protect the rest of the battery. If so the battery won’t work again unless it is replaced. If they are brand name cells (Samsung etc) it’s worth paying for someone to fix, if they are no-name cells then it’s new battery time...

Whoa

You need to run it in a lower gear so it spins faster. It’s producing too much heat at low revs. It doesn’t do well at ‘pedal assist’ speeds. My technique when I used it daily was to drop down a gear, give it a blast while ‘ghost pedalling’ then change up gear, coast/pedal for a bit, then repeat...

So I have run a 13S 1P pack of 21700 VTC6A and it works well. However it does get pretty warm and doesn’t last long until the low voltage protection kicks in. Suggest trying for 2p if at all possible.

If anyone is after a 54v 14A power supply, a cisco 341-0533 for a POE switch could be used. Simply jumper the last 2 pins in the second row of small pins and it’s good to go. (Exact pinout unknown, I’ll be looking for a way to adjust to 58V if possible!) One set of contacts is 12.6V 20A and one...

The old mechanics trick is to use a punch and a hammer and put a handful of punch marks inside the bearing inner. This will make a shaft fit tightly but not so much that it can’t be removed later. You can also use a drop or 2 of Loctite or similar bearing retention glue.

Awesome!! A great looking bike for sure. Will the battery be close to the front wheel at full shock compression?

Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are lower energy density and therefore heavier for the same capacity as Li-ion. They have high C rate and god cycle life though. If you had a 2 parallel 16 series pack that would need 32 of these cells, which would weigh 7kg, not too bad but it would be bulky in...

Some chargers have a ‘Storage’ function which discharges to a lower voltage, that’s what I use to equalise the cells at a lower voltage. I wouldn’t short any cells as they can still give a big spark. Strongly recommend taping up any metal parts of the battery apart from the p group you are...

You could use one half twist throttle and one thumb throttle to control the motors independently. You would need 2 displays ( or none and just use ones with Bluetooth and a basic cycle computer)

I have a Juiced ODK with front geared hub which works really well. it’s great to have 2 independent drivetrains; if your chain snaps with a mid drive you are stranded! A bit of reassurance with the little one on board that it is very likely to get to the destination. If those front forks are...

I bought some cheap adjustable torque arms from aliexpress and am pretty disappointed- they are loose as a goose with huge amounts of play in the teeth and the axle slot. I will attempt to shim the axles and epoxy the teeth but it’s a bandaid. Luckily they are on a thick steel fork of a factory...