Recent content by flippy

not really. they are too "violent" for the really senstive work as they give too hard of a pulse. its like tryng to close a glass door with a swing of a sledgehammer. personally i prefer laser welding. the control is insane and extremely localized. but again: not for us peasants at 20k a pop...

its abosutely no problem to make a battery last 10+ years. i do so in a daily basis, its litteraly the core of my business. hell even the scooter my wife uses every day to drive 50 miles has done so for 7 years now and it still has 87% of its orignal capacity. you thinking you can get full...

Where would you connect the daygreen on?

i am still missing WHY you need to recharge in less then 15 minutes after consuming ~1kWh of energy. it would seem that increasing the battery size would decrease the need for such a charging need. 160A does not change the metrics (or imperial :mrgreen: ) any better in practical terms. the...

that was not the question. i asked what you actually -need- in power. that has nothing to do with charging. the voltage has nothing to do with safety. the amps you are taking about is a MUCH bigger problem here. 250A is enough to jump start 3 pickups at once. even the slightest loose...

i am sorry, but is you goal to make something actually useful or just a experimental setup as a hobby to play around with over the weekends? or an experimental thing that you might want to use properly? this is important. i see a lot of people that see 1 or 2 things about a certain battery...

i doubt you will get beyond 150 cycles with your planned setup. especially if you dont compress the batteries in a frame. the C rating on those batteries is fictional. please ignore. Its best to start a new thread for your situation.

if you plan to make this your commuter scooter i would recommend getting different batteries. no way those will survive riding 40~50mph constantly.

please ignore john fatty and chalo, they dont have a clear understanding of the basics and you end up in the woods like that. what you want is no a problem from a technical perspective. but the problem is amps mostly, this is what makes it so expensive so there need to be a good technical...

not really , it will work and each battery will simply give depending on their internal resistance, but even the connectors and wires you are using to tie the batteries together are a factor. unless a bms trips i would not worry so much.

it depends on what each battery can give. there are too many variables for that. the controller does not care in the slightest wich battery gives him the power nor does it have control over that.

there is no anode like in a akline battery. a 18650 cell is made up of a rolled up sheet. the "anti-cyclindrical" people here think that spotwelding damages the bottom part of the rolled up piece, completly ignoring the insulation and space there still remains. while it tehoretically is...

Always go with the higher voltage. Controllers only care about amps. So a 50A controller delivers double the power at 72V compared to 36V.

then dont compare a reseller of used and/or fake cells with a actual offical vendor that sells certified original cells at MSRP.

Not for you no. Not me either, or anyone else on this forum.