Recent content by GoldenBunip

My amps will now be limited by melting the phase wires going into the motor. Which can easily be replaced. My controller is 40amp continuous and peaks at 100amps for 30s, but that’s phase amps. Currently the boost switch is set to eco mode (its one or the other) so need to plug it in to a pc...

I have used a few controllers over the years, but now tend to stick with Kelly Controllers. they are very compact, waterproof and I have yet to burn a single one of them out. They have protections built in for overvoltage/undervoltage, temps etc. As Kelly are primarily a car motor controller...

It works… Filled with deionised water, with anticorrosive additive. I was thinking about the drag, whilst waters mms is 1, even 0W oil is 5.4 and that’s at 100c. Ok so more than air at 1e-5. Motor spins fine, forward and backwards. Yet to take it for a spin, that will have to wait till...

That would require me to put in a thermal probe, which at this stage I haven’t! Or get an amp meter for the controller - which again I haven’t… Don’t get me wrong I would like to do the proper comparison but at this stage and my limited time, I’m focusing on getting it working and hopefully...

Updates on my mad project The new motor is here! End caps (from the old motor) are now sealed and have g1/4 taps with PC coolant fittings attached. I'm going to use another g1/4 fitting as the port for the wires, now I've checked the wires fit thought the fitting. This will allow me to fill...

Cheers but the motor that burn and it’s replacement are brushless motors.

I’ve got 130mm of width from the chain sprocket along the axial of rotation. Which the current motor is. 200mm front to back. About 300mm of hight So room for a fatter motor. All three dimensions are constrained by things I can’t change (foot pads, suspension, frame) Any suggestions for...

Interesting suggestion, Would help get heat to the surface, not sure by how much as the winnings are tightly fit in there and thermally bridged to the surface already.

@Chalo You’re really not helpful. Motor is rated for 30amps, but running that load on it generates heat. With a large continuous load that’s too much heat for the motor to dissipate, even with a good airflow on it. Industrial and automotive motors are all liquid cooled. Guess what they don’t...

The old motor is a dud now. Replacement is on it way. The cooling is for the new motor. There just isn’t a motor with more torque available that will fit and none are designed for excessive use with the quads +mine + a kids weight. I could go up voltage, but it’s already scary fast for the...

Still not decided if I will push gearbox oil or deionised water with anticorrosive agents through the motor. But the pump, rad and fan are now mounted. The ends off my dud motor now have a g1/4 fitting on each end. Both options measure no measurable conductivity. Both options have a...

Not got any knowledge of the cyclone motor myself, but you can work it out from the signals If you can only ever get two open (12v now [emoji3]) it’s 120, if you can get all three open at the same time is 60. Nice diagrams here...

Hopefully you took notes when testing the combinations. If so just go with the hall degree and combination that ran forward but roughly. Not worries about the reward, just hoping I’ve helped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you try the 12v? It’s cable 11 found on the other (none hall) block. I took it out the other block, put the other type of end on it and put it into the spare slot on the hall block.

Swap the 5v to the halls to the 12v. I had to do this for a recent motor with my Kelly controller. Has the same issue, tried all combinations when running 5v to the halls and all I could get was rough running. Swapped the 5v to the 12v and wired up to the combination that’s was rough running...