Recent content by gwhy!1

it turned out well :-) and a very good learning experience, I still have the bike but dont ride much at all these days as I dont really have the transport to take it somewhere to ride so now i just use a pushbike setup for playing with :-) as it fits on the back seat of my car with the front...

it could work if its a linear ratiometric sensor that is sprung loaded to return back to zero output. There is not enough information to say if it will work or not.

just thinking about it logically torque mode would be better

you could use a couple of my throttle boxes and a push/pull mc throttle .. maybe :!:

I have never seen this in a working setup and have my doubts if it will work reliably or even work at all .. but the black wires would need to be connected together but only use one 5v supply from just one controller..

so you have 6 phase wires from the motor ? and 2 sets of hall sensors in the motor ? edit or 3 phase wires from motor and 1 set of halls

why would you put 100V caps into a controller that will only be able to take around 50V max if you use 3006's ? what fets did it have in it originally?

Yes different for any offroad stuff, as you rely on sharp edges on the knobbles for the grip.

Here you go, this article explains why new tyres can have less grip than worn in/scrubbed tyres. http://motorbikewriter.com/break-new-set-motorcycle-tyres/

most controllers have a ignition wire that uses a very low current to turn the controller on and off so nearly anything can be used to switch it on or off, when the controller is off the lv side of the controller circuit is not powered so there should be no main current flowing as all the fets...

you could use a lv alarm and invert the output to turn off a small latching relay in the ignition wire of the controller.. Edit: push button to turn bike on and lv alarm to unlatch the relay

You should use the xpd programmer instead of the lyen software , it gives much more adjust ability ( 2A steps ), there is also a lyen profile that you can use within the software, its a shame you modded the shunt before trying the xpd software .. the thread is here...

you need to be careful and think about the settings you have chosen, a 18fet will only be reliable upto around 225A and this dont matter what current the fets are rated at .. this 225A also comes into play with the phase current limit ... so if you have followed the rule of thumb guides i.e...

just make sure that both batterys voltages are within a volt each other before you join them up.. you dont want to connect a flat battery in P with a fully charged battery that would not be a good idea :shock:

thats ok.. I sort of guessed that what may of happend , but i had to re-read my post about 3 or 4 times just incase I did do a typo :mrgreen: