Recent content by igashosparks

Where did you source your Qs205?

Got the halls swapped out.. what a PIA that was. Between peeling off whatever was covering the hall circuit board and to trying to get the hall wires through little holes already filled with solder.. I believe it took a good 4 hours. I also didn't realize one needed monster truck force to...

Thank you for the ferrofluid recommendation! I was wondering what that stuff was for, just watched a pretty good video on the use.. placing an order for it now. I'll have to look into HubSinks as well.

I put the motor through some pretty significant abuse.. these hill grades are upwards of 25%, I had the throttle pinned a good about of time, barely moving and/or peddling and barely making it up the hill.. or stalling completing and having to push. The bike is 140lb-ish, and I'm about 210lbs...

I believe it was a combination of the motor overheating (after a 45 minutes of uphill abuse, very steep grades) to the point of melting the solder? (not sure what the melt point of the solder that they used). in combination of the circuit board being pulled to the right (bad craftsmanship)...

UPDATE:. My gear puller arrived today.. (way bigger spread then needed...). The cover separated from the stator like butter using this device. No heating or removing the flywheel required. Now onto replacing the halls.. they are indeed a hot mess.

Hi All, I'm trying to open my 8000W (likely clone) QSmotor to replace a failed hall sensor. I got it halfway opened, but can't get the remaining outside panel off to expose the Hall Sensors. There is a BMX style freewheel sprocket attached to the threaded axle (going through the motor)...

Ah, that does make sense then.. So, the slower I go the faster I overheat at full load.. The Controller has a Motor Temperature Sensor and shutdown, but do not think there is an actual sensor in the motor.. so to your point about installing one. ugh! Therefore, if I was pushing more...

Should I start a new thread or continue here? I do not know what the temperature was at the time of failure.. nor do I see myself installing a sensor into the motor. but interesting, I really shouldn't be pushing at all the capabilities of the motor.. My max Amps coming through the...

I'm going to mark this one as solved.. Not sure if there is an official way to do that, for now.. I'll just change the title. Ok.. So, I finally had received my BT dongle for the Sabvoton controller.. and was able to verify that the builder did not properly limit the controller to the max...

Of course.. I didn't even consider attaching to the Fuse connectors for the positive cable... I knew I had to cut the negative for the inline shunt, but was stressing over having to cut into the positive cable as well. Makes perfect sense. I'll have to figure out a proper mount for the multi...

I must have sent you the wrong link to the amazon battery that has the continuous output at 60amp.. The one that I did link was the battery that I'm eyeing as a replacement: NBPOWER 72V 40Ah Lithium Battery, Ebike Battery with 150A BMS and 84V 10A Charger for 8000W Enduro Bike, 8000W Ebike...

@amberwolf I'm about to purchase the inline multimeter as you recommended: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS May I ask what you used/did to tap into the negative cable? Did you use a T tap? or something similar?

I believe 60 Amp Max continuous isn't that uncommon from my surfing of what's available on Amazon for a 72v 41Ah battery.. it's definitely 60Amp, not 6.. the marketing guy confirmed as a typo. I mean, at 100Amp continuous.. I would only get ~40 minutes on a charge, no...

I got this conversation back from the battery manufacturer, I can't tell if this guy doesn't know what he's talking about.. or he's just in a rush: :?: