Recent content by Karolis

Could You specify more of your build. 21S of what (Lipo or Life) Sprocket tooth motor kv and so on.

Something is not add up for EKTM with 205. No way it can go 75km/h top speed. 24s = 24x4,2V = ~100V with 3T+, kv=14,31 at 100V this motor spins 100x14,31=1431rpm. With reduction 3,15 wheel spins 1431/3,15=454rpm. The wheel size 18" with tyre. C=2PiR. C=2x3,14x0,3m=1,88m (~1,9) Distance...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cavf_PpTpzM small video

Atleast I hoped to expect same result. Cause that hubzilla with 9kv was not able to stand a bit longer ride in bicycle. I have to cool it down with spray of water constantly. My BMS was reporting 210A from battery for hubzila (peak power). BMS is custom made with fluke calibration. so that Kelly...

Hi, actually i tried to do true mid-drive system with QS205 17,7kv and I can say I failed. The system consist (as a "lab" bike). original it was idea to do with Revolt Rv160 PRO. But as it turned out it is crap in quality and so on. In making the frame I was kinda expecting that. So i made...

I third to that. I based my all bike on this motor RV 160 pro from ground up and found that is crap half way in project. But thanks god I also backed up project with QS205 in mind if something will go wrong, still left place for fitting it in. But I redone the whole motor to be like hub based...

I don't think it is a good idea. To start from beginning again. You already have rewinded your motor. You only need to check first even if it is worth doing by making new rotor. If you will find that there is some improvements, then you should step it up. I would do that way if I was in your...

I think that rotor is crap (maybe not good material for rotor) and main loses comes from it. I didn't see any rotor which temperature rises more than stator's and that is at free spining. After one minute of free spin you can already feel it. So imagine what energy it takes to heat that. My...

The main problem for me is the rotor. It is completely inaccurate. I tried to balance it. So it is on the limit for me. Also there is a huge magnetic flux leakage.

Is there any news about new rotor? Currently made rear swing arm with RV160PRO and looking for a reason to continue my project or just dump it. I'm in crossway. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWaFExhQsjg

Larsb, did you notice when motor is taken apart, no metal sticks to rotor. No magnetic leakage. As soon as you assemble the motor the rotor picks up everything as hell. You can even lift the hole motor weight by just magnetic leakage of rotor with some metal put near rotor. Something here is...

Another interesting point for RV-160. I let the motor run freely for 1 minute at 80% throtle, and I already feel some heat in rotor casing, but only in rotor. Like 5C difrence from ambient temperature. Winding stayed same temperature after test. So there is some parasitic current in rotor.

I will ask topic author. What would happen if every car in the morning would be completely out of gas, practicaly empty gas tank? Do you imagine the scenario in gas station in the morning? Have you heard the word of average? Take average consumption and do calculations.

What I found with my RV 160 that this leakage is only when motor is assembled. Take the rotor apart from stator and nothing will stick to rotor. Also what i mentioned earlier, this rotor's casing is not even round, It is more like oval shape with more metal on one side than over. it is out of...

It is unbalanced rotor and pretty bad one. The rotor's thickness is not even. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=80516&start=100 Please take a look at pictures at the rotor of my RV160 which i made for middrive. I believe all revolts have the same problem.