Recent content by kolby

The highest wattage I've seen so far was around 1100. I only measure occasionally when I change something in my setup, and I use a WattsUp, which doesn't seem the most accurate of measuring methods. The high speed runs don't produce these high amps, at speed the drive doesn't do more than about...

I'm using the same mechanism. The motor swings from the stop freely to the wheel, and while engaging climbs up until it hits the other stop. The rubber inner tube cover with the padding underneath helps. This works for speeds up to around 25-30mph. Beyond that, the motor has a hard time...

I tried to make a bracket to mount the motor from the seatstays and the difficulty there was that the motor is attached on one side only and there is a lot of twisting force that the mounting bracket has to counter. Ideally you would clamp down on both of the short welded sections (with some...

This one has a setting called active freewheeling: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42763__Hobbyking_YEP_120A_HV_4_14S_Brushless_Speed_Controller_OPTO_EU_Warehouse_.html

Assuming that the Dahon has a 68mm BB at least, it would be possible to mount it behind the BB, with a bracket attached to the two tubes stabilizing the BB. The bracket shape would be a little more involved ( and probably require some molding to get the exact shape). The main difference between...

One of my ESCs has some resistance, the other can actively freewheel, so the motor spins without resistance (Heli ESCs seem to have freewheeling settings).

I built the mounting bracket myself (I had access to a machine shop, but only used a band saw and a drill press). I put a servo controller that I found on polulu.com in front of the ESC. The ESC is set up so it just doesn't do any soft starting or braking, just syncs the motor correctly at the...

Update on my bike. I put the Felt on a little diet. I built new custom wheels, the easiest way to save weight, new wheelset came in at 1470gr for a tad over $300. Not bad for a set of disc wheels. I mounted my Cannondale Hollowgram SL cranks, a new cheap carbon seatpost. Total weight with the...

Kosilica, sorry I haven't had much time lately to update here. I will try and get some sketches of my bracket up tomorrow. Meanwhile, I tried my other motor on my bike, the G110 EasyMatch at 219 kV (pretty similar to the motor you first mentioned). It runs fine, but it makes a lot more noise at...

After spending a whole weekend cleaning up my friction drive setup (mostly wiring, adding a remote etc), I was comfortably hitting 60km/h on a flat road today. This is with a 63mm 245 kV Easymatch 160 motor, the Turnigy TZ85A ESC, and two 6S Multistar 5.2Ah LiPos, plus the MiniMaestro servo...

If you're running with a 6s battery, the Tz85A is fine and much cheaper. When riding with it and a Multistar 6s pack I'm seeing peek amps around 70, and it handles it well. The ESC doesn't get hot, even after a long continuous run (for me about 3 minutes max). I have not had enough time with...

My 6S ESC (Turnigy TZ85A from HobbyKing) does not need any caps. My HV ESC (YEP120) has caps built in, no sparks when connecting it up to 8s batteries.

I'm getting over 50km/h with a 245kV 63mm motor on 6s battery. Might not be the most efficient, but works fine. LiPo batteries and standard R/C ESC . No issues with overheating. But I'm mostly using it to boost my speed. If you plan on running only on motor power, you might be better off with a...

kosilica, looks like your frame has plenty of room to accommodate the drive unit. I didn't mean to confuse with my first comment, what I built is a friction drive. It looks like your frame has a cable for the front derailleur running down behind the seat tube. This would be in the way of the...

Here are some pictures of my current setup: The bracket, controller, and the "black box", with the button and speed sensor wires going in: And here is a better look at the rubber cover of the motor: I ordered a simple RF remote which will replace the ugly button wire, and give me a remote...