Recent content by larsb

Yes, i think you’re correct, it will be more of an issue but cannot really set it into proportions, not my expertise. I read a thread on rcgroups some years ago where there was spiking visible on a scope with a dual battery plus diode setup. But was it a stopper? Can’t remember.

True, there’s a huge thread on rcgroups on this subject. Keep wires as short as possible and as closely bundled together as possible, the wiring loop area sets the inductance created between battery and esc.

Probably a throttle overvolt protection for both of you. Change protection values in the program or add a resistor in the throttle line to lower the voltage into the controller. I would have to spend some time finding it out where to put it and which value, too much work right now but it is...

can’t say based on the link but easy to verify. Hall sensor throttle signal starts from about 0.7V to about 4V, potentiometer throttle from 0-5V roughly. Or you measure resistance from signal to ground and twist throttle. If it is constant then it’s a hall throttle, if it is linearly changing...

If you have a potentiometer throttle then that could be the issue. Have you tried it with a hall sensor throttle?

Connected PAS, but power is still the same between all assist levels when I use throttle. I don’t know if this is normal, might be that assist levels are only changed on the PAS input since with throttle you could just stop throttling at a lower level. Anyway, the function is not the best for...

So, i did the first 100km on the bike and it’s good and bad. The motor core i had turned out to be a high speed winding so at 12s voltage / 26” wheels the noload speed is 50kph. That gets me a power hungry system with about 21A max and 1000w of power - which is kind of fun but was not at all my...

Actually my plan was originally to use it as intended, with a 10s battery, but the bms i had could not be configured as 10s - so i built the battery into 12s and fixed the rest😄 main thing was to avoid buying stuff and waiting for a three month shipping delay..

I had the KU63 already and it's dirt cheap and simple. I got tired of Votols when they started screwing up the program, guess that might or might not have improved by now but for this build a KU63 was right.

Ok, we have rotation! Love it when things come together as they should, even with a motor core that came from a different wheel, a controller for another voltage and a new battery made from scratch in a day. I tinned the shunt without any knowhow on what it should be so if it burns then it might...

So.. patience is hard so i tried a fix.. I got an answer from avandalen and it seems the calculation of the r1 value is correct, but the resistor value was rounded down to 270ohm due to availability. Might be good to update that on the page @avandalen 👍 The original resistor on my KU63 was...

I have gone full circle from 1000w to 20kW and back to 250w, i’m just building a tootling around bike with a 10 year old ku63 controller that i never used in 2014 😀 I have a 12s battery and the ku63 is 24v/36v (on the label) - but i read here: Re: KU63 KU93 KU123 controller hacking that they...

How is the switch meant to be connected? I guess that if you use a contactor it could break the coil voltage but that shuts down the whole system. If you connect it to break the throttle signal then it might cause a throttle error? Does someone here use it connected and how?

Did you ever fly with it? I am wondering since the stuff i’ve bought from freerchobby has had issues. 25kW is a lot of power.

Got the refund for the cells so all was handled OK, even if i lost some time. In the meantime i got the threaded inserts and copper wire for bus bars so i will update my models and do i final test print.