Recent content by maxwell92036

Either get one with longer wires or splice and solder in wires to make it the right length.

Very good information. Thanks much! Even 73 mm bottom brackets use at least one spacer so it shouldn't be a problem. That is unless you use a bottom bracket mount type front derailleur.

Standard square taper and outboard bearing. I found ones that work but they aren't ideal usually because of spacing or sensing issues. I ordered a different style from e-bay so I will let you know what I think of it once I get it.

I thought about the BB torque sensing units but I don't think they are compatible with the newer outboard bearing bottom brackets. Also I don't thing the torque sensing units would work well with my Wattwagons. I like that you can vary the power output to the wheel of the wattwagon with standard...

Mostly square taper bottom bracket but sometimes there is not enough room to squeeze the magnet sensor in without it binding. On one I had to remove the small chainring. Of course I could buy a wider bottom bracket. I don't think a standard PAS is going to work with an outboard bearing BB...

I have been frustrated with the standard pedal assist sensor kits. A lot of the time you can't get them to fit even with a standard square taper BB. Finding ones to work with the new style BB's is even worse. I have tried this one and it isn't as good as what I need...

Could be but the mass of a direct drive hub motor acts as a heat sink. I think Bafang on their mid drive motor needs to move the controller outside of the motor case for cooling purposes and to make repair to the controller easier. It's a nice clean slick unit but having two heat sources in a...

In my wattwagon with a 16 inch DD hub motor I think we achieve the best of both worlds. Great hill climbing ability with little wasted heat and at 48 volts plenty of top end (30 miles per hour plus). On similar terrain compared to my 3 Bafang mid drive units (one 750 watt model and two 500 watt...

I have gotten the motor quite hot using the standard configuration even keeping the RPM up. Don't know how much the little motor will take as far as dumping more power into it, but hey someone has to try it!

Bicycles are in a very competitive market. Lot's of manufacturers so they have to compete for the customer much like all other industries do. I don't think too many people are getting rich in the bicycle business. I had a bike shop for years and I know what the margins are and it is even more...

Quality mountain bikes come at a price. It is not about showing it off or snob appeal. Quality mountain bike forks cost 500 dollars plus. Quality wheelsets cost $500 plus. You can get a decent mountain bike at $2,000 but for much less you start sacrificing. Good luck trying to piece together a...

Here is a good list of what the different states allow regarding speed, horsepower (or displacement) and licensing requirements. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_bicycle_laws#Arizona

OK let's define legal. In the US from my understanding it is 750 watts and 20MPH with throttle and I guess up to 28MPH with pedal assist. In regards to being able to keep up with traffic that has never been the purpose of a bicycle or in my opinion an e-bike. If I want to accelerate with the...

The problem with "performance" is that it puts you on the wrong side of the law. Want to build a powerful "e-bike" then unless you don't use it on the public roads it is illegal. Why build up a motorcycle power level e-bike and expect to get away from properly licensing it or insuring it...

I am an experienced bicyclist and I know that you get a lot more bike for $2,000 than you get for $1,000. Better wheels, better components, better frame, better shock and the list goes on. A shop I have been into has many bikes over 5 grand and a few close to 10 grand. But the endless sphere...