Recent content by MrBeeeeee

Okay, so I ended up removing the motor and rear suspension altogether and replaced it with a custom fabricated single sided swingarm to facilitate a QS Motor 10" 4kW hub motor. I've also attached the two-way throttle from a Vectrix VX-1 and am currently using it with the Kelly controller in...

Your explanation didn't demonstrate that you knew anything about DC motor control theory. You also misidentified the Lepton as having a "Chain drive" when it's actually an HTD belt drive. I feel someone who has owned a Lepton for 10 years would know that. I couldn't even be sure you actually...

Okay, so I replaced the hall sensor on the motor with Honeywell SS443A hall sensors. That didn't fix much of anything. Apparently, the issue is that the motor just isn't getting enough voltage from my battery pack to overcome the back-EMF the motor is creating at the top-end. So when the...

So I tried the controller on a Mars Electric motor I got from a friend and it ran great on a bench. The throttle response was predictable and it got going really fast (pretty scary actually). I'm shifting my focus on to the hall sensors of my motor and proceeded to take the entire sensor to...

So I took the controller out and got the following resistance values between the phase lugs and the battery terminals. This is with the controller completely disconnected and on a bench: B+ to U: 95.0 K ohm B- to U: 93.0 K ohm B+ to V: 92.9 K ohm B- to V: 90.9 K ohm B+ to W: 97.0 K ohm B- to...

So, I've been back and forth with Fany for over a month now, and the problem persists. Right off the line, there's a pretty huge amount of torque that falls off almost immediately once the scooter is moving. It won't climb past 20 mph. The throttle output is smooth across its range. I even...

So Fany hooked it up and looked at my configuration. She had me change "Bat Current Limit" from 120 to 100. TPS Dead High was changed from 220 to 80. The Torque Speed Kp and Ki were changed back from their max values to 3000 and 200 respectively. She also informed me that the value for...

Here are screen shots of the configuration screens. The last two are of the status monitor. The first one is the controller at rest, and the second one is with the throttle twisted all the way open.

Because that's how the wiring diagram instructs you to wire the Forward switch wire.

I'm almost positive it's unchecked, but I can post screenshots after I get home and have a chance to hook it back up. I'll also try connecting the forward switch to 12v and report back.

The forward switch is reading (0), but when I had the old KLS7215H in there, I didn't have it wired any differently and it went forward when the throttle was twisted. This screencap was from my old controller while the bike was under load and moving...

So I upgraded to a bigger KLS7250H to see if I could stretch more performance out of the motor. I replaced the old KLS7215H with the exact same wiring and configured the KLS7250H with all the same settings as the old KLS7215H, except I bumped the nominal motor current to 100A. The "angle...

I ran it up the biggest hill in neighborhood, down again, then back up and the motor never got warmer than 50C. Controller stayed cool to tbr touch as well. So I guess I'll get the biggest controller I can mount and see what it takes to make that motor hot.

So, how should I direct my efforts? Am I battery limited, controller limited, or motor limited? Can I apply a methodology to figuring out what my performance bottleneck is?

Wait, do you think I'm running into an issue with the batteries not supplying enough current, or the controller not supplying enough current? When I come off the line I'm definitely seeing the readout go over 140A for "Phase Current" before coming down to something more nominal.