Recent content by rick_p

As you attain more speed, don't forget to factor in safety, the faster you go the longer it takes to stop it, and high-speed wobbles are no fun either. Have fun, but do it safely :)

A Summary of this entire thread, with links to key information when diagnosing an Error 30: I read through the entire thread and added notes and corrections wherever possible to help prevent misleading anyone trying to diagnose their bike for an Error 30 condition. Key Post: KT and Lishui...

Sounds good :bigthumb:

Correct, everything displays for a few moments and then it switches to Error 30, then turns itself off. To your point, the throttle is limited to 20mph, and whatever level the PAS is stuck in is the same or very close. The owner‘s response to this news was “Beats the hell out of being dead in...

I just searched their products, and they have both displays and controllers available, so getting a matched set should be easy if he decides to go that route.

I agree, it absolutely confirms the display was at least part of the problem. I didn’t try the jumper trick on the old controller, so I don’t know if it caused the failure on the display or the other way around, but either way, nice to confirm it was damaged. It can’t hurt to ask, but I agree...

I did the latter, but I didn't test it yet because I had to disconnect the temp leads to the controller to put the bike away. I'm working on moving the connector from the old controller to the new one, once that is complete it will be easy to test the display.

I like this idea, the battery has a key and I’m sure the owner will be fine with using it to power up the system. I don’t like the idea of trying to repair a circuit board, on or off the board, but if we can get the display to function for everything other than powering on the system, that would...

What about something like this? As see here.

I think I found the problem...

@TommyCat and @amberwolf SUCCESS, the jumper test (at the display connector) worked!!!!! The replacement controller is good. Everything worked, the throttle worked, the brake cutoffs worked, even the PAS worked, albeit at a default setting, which seemed like max. This was all done as a bench...

The owner just wants to get it working again, and he couldn’t care less about bells and whistles. Meaning, he doesn’t care if it has an LCD screen or not, an on/off switch with an LED battery charge level is enough. As for power, he doesn’t want it to perform any different than when it was...

The only reason I did this test was to see if I could isolate the bad component, but it sounds to me that my test was not definitive in determining that, and even if it was, it would take a component level repair to fix it, which I am not equipped to do anyway. My neighbor who owns the bike...

@TommyCat and @amberwolf As mentioned, I decided to do the work involved (expose the wires) to test the display, which I have done, but I'm not entirely sure of what the results mean. But first I'll share how I was able to conduct the test on a system that uses entirely waterproof Juliet...

I've had the meter a long time, it will be worth the investment. I suppose that is possible, but the break is at the end of a small cable that only has the two wires in it for the light, and the only time it would be energized if the light were connected and switched on, but it's not even...