Recent content by SirLongAss

If your looking for moto rims this chinese company hooked me up when no one else would even bother. https://ncyclebike.aliexpress.com/store/2214086?spm=2114.12010615.pcShopHead_2523220.0 They already sell front lanced wheels for 20mm axle bike forks. If you ask nicely like I did, they will...

Funny enough it is on my mind. I'll have to either upgrade my welder or build another. Mine is capped at 1200CCA but from what I've read it doesn't last long at anything over 800CCA. Nah not lipos. I got the perfect cells for that. (something that wont puff up and can be left fully charged)...

All my welder does is shorts a 800CCA car battery for the amount of milliseconds it is set to. No control over the pulse current lol. Even though it has some issues, I think this is a good solution vs buying that $10,000 welder at the start of this thread.

I finished building a 52v 13.6 ah battery with nickel(0.2mm) and copper(0.15mm) sandwich taps. It's kind of a pain in the rear. Keep in mind. I was using a Malectrics Arduino Battery Spot Welder with a 800CCA car battery. I had to set my welder to 40ms(normally I can weld 0.2mm nickel with...

I can confirm this works. I saw that video a few weeks ago and was amazed by how simple it was. I imagine it works almost like a HEAT round for a tank. Nickel has a much high melting point then copper. So the molten nickel probably just punches threw it and cools when it hits the nickel...

I buy from these guys too and can recommend. Also they have it in pretty much whatever thickness you want.

I'm not sure how you did that lol. So you are probably going to want to cut the wires on both sides of the connectors. Then replace the connectors. :warn: Make sure after cutting each wire you put tape on it or cover the wire so you don't take the chance to cause a short :warn: You could also...

Here is a 3Kw charger that is adjustable between 0-120v/0-60v and 25a/50a. Also it can do 110v or 220v...

Yes that is what I mean. For my bike I don't use a precharge resistor and I've had no problems. Fuses are lame. Use breakers. I have two 100A breakers in parallel for my bike. Also, I recommend buying/building a battery that can do 150A. I mean you bought the the 72v 150a Sabvaton for a reason...

Not really as it's pretty close to plug and play with the QS205. The only thing I could recommend is make sure the "ignition" is hooked up and on when you go to program it. Also, don't burn up your battery or motor by pulling too many amps for too long.

No problem my dude. Just start ripping it up out there 8)

Have you tested it on the base. I'm assuming that the battery plugs in through those prongs on the base and that a discharge wire It comes out of the base. Meter that wire. Also pictures would help.

I'm pretty sure they are running that qs motor kit that includes this motor + swing arm on an electric motorcycle called the city slicker. https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/csc-introduces-its-first-electric-motorcycle-the-city-slicker-at-1995 Neat to see something other then a Zero coming...

If your picking up that voltage, I doubt its the battery. What setup are you running on your bike? I know it seems silly, but is there any chance you have a 48v bike? I only ask because a lot of 48v controllers tend to cut out power at or around 42v. (your lithium battery is full at 41.7v and...

I get like maybe 50-70km on that bike with a 72v 20ah battery(1440 wh). It's really crap for rolling resistance. I'm pretty sure I read it has a torque sensor. Edit! Looks like im wrong about the bafang. It uses a cadence sensor.