Recent content by terminus

You know, the stock steel chainring is not the right chainring for efficiently climbing mountains. If you do not have it geared right you really can't say anything for certain. Also I would not climb a mountain until I had properly broken in the battery, regardless of the cell makeup. Maybe...

Etrike sounds like the only person being deceptive in this thread is you. Funny how you deflected my question and just keep repeating the same thing. Seems you didn't answer Eric's questions either.

Everyone knows real world performance varies. Fact is you have to label capacity something. Are they to understate the capacity that according to the manufacturer it adds up to, in the offchance you get butthurt about real world performance? I don't see anything here that is "much less"...

Whatever. You add that many cells from THE MANUFACTURER'S STATED CAPACITY together and that's what you get. You're trying to conflate real-world losses to mean Luna's deceptive, and that's just wrong.

Interesting how some few people want vendors to understate pack specs to make up for these users' lack of accurate measuring equipment.

Can't believe there's only like one realistic post about solid tires. The ONLY good argument I can find against the latest types with advanced foam polymers is this one: compared to pneumatic tires they do have about as much damping but do not have as much shock absorption from bit hits. And...

Try not to die?

Slightly better I guess. Integrating battery into the wheel of a production ebike still makes no sense though. This battery is basically the same voltage and capacity, and would probably fit right into the triangle. No need for adding rotating mass to the wheel, or extra wiring, or using a...

Bad design choice from the factory. Unnecessarily adding weight into the wheel makes it slower. They could have designed a larger battery pack to fit into the triangle which would have been okay, though 350W on a fatbike is going to be disappointing either way. So it is added complexity for...

I am surprised there are not already CAD files somewhere you could use to simply 3D print a v2100 battery compartment.

I'm not real good at math but aren't those lipo packs 22V? How does that equal 46V when you build the pack? And is there a way to change the LVC on those cheapo motor kits so it doesn't cut off at 46v, or 44v, or whatever it is?

I'm glad you found a frame you like but that hyperbole is unnecessary. The v2100 is one of the most popular frames for conversion and if it were not suitable we would know it by now. Sure it is mostly popular due to price and you should replace the moving parts but it is still a deal even after...

Oh. Sorry to hear that.

Is this available yet?

I kinda figured the money I would pay for the tools is more than just paying someone else. But yeah I got no idea how much. Thanks for the links!